boostfed

just double checked it and looks like the price dropped since last i checked. price adjusted!

hi, theyre deluxe

surprised no one wants these fenders! definitely the best fitting ones

Pms replied

List updated

open to reasonable offers for forum members

replied, thought these nice parts would go a lot faster to their new homes! apologies for the late responses as well, for some reason the notifications aren't coming to my email. Will check the boards more often, everything listed is still available.

Parts list updtaed

Yes 280z. PM’s replied

PM's replied.

Hello All, I have a few parts I'm getting selling, parts are all brand new. Local buyer preferred ( Bay Area, CA) , prices are firm. First come, first served. Shipping is available at the buyers expense. Thanks! 1976 + 280z Wedge seat brackets - $150

i haven't heard back from CX since my last update. Not completely sure if im willing to wait for them to remedy the mounts, i could've bent them out by now, lol. I think between waiting for CX and Maddog rails, its all set me back a bit. I'll probably just push on with everything and make it all fit

Agreed! Maybe time to look at fabbing up a cross brace

Fingers crossed... I was expecting to get voicemails and generic answers, but so far so good!

So i was able to speak with CX Racing customer service. I spoke with a representative who was familiar with the LS / S30 platform and he said that on 280z's since the trans tunnel is wider, you would only use the front set of adapter mounts, and not the rear mounting tabs that required drilling to the seatbelt hole / trans tunnel area. For the motor mount issue, i sent them an email with photos and they told me they'd review the photos, and if there was an issue with the mounts they they'd send me a new set. Not bad so far! Keep in mind that my mounts were purchased about 4 years ago, and they are still willing to look into this issue for me. I'll keep everyone updated, but so far my experience with CX has been good and responsive so far.

Yeah I might just see if i can take it to a machine shop or just try heating and bending, we’ll see What I feel comfortable with, but the metal looks pretty stout for some home garage stuff. I might ditch the trans mount... if only hoke were still around. I’m located in the South Bay Area, I’m sure I can find a few places to squeeze me in. I think the PM feature is down at the moment. has anyone had any experience with Apex? The only reason I haven’t mentioned them is because I’ve heard some stories about their customer service and issues with incomplete orders. It would make it a lot easier on me to just to purchase from them though, but the wait times and possible headaches aren’t likely worth it, if the allegations are true.

Thanks for the reply, slowpoke. I guess I should be happy that I’m not the only one. Not really sure if I want to use these parts that require such heavy modification on fairly integral parts. The mounts I wouldn’t be able to bend into the correct position, I’d likely have to make relief cuts, bend them out and weld them. The trans mount I can extend some how probably... either that or I can just replace them with something that fits and would require less figuring out and fab time. I have some thinking to do, too bad hoke isn’t making parts anymore

Hi everyone, i'm finally getting around to mocking up my LQ9 and T56 combo in my 75 280z using the CX Racing kit, a couple of things i noticed and i wanted to see if anyone else has had these issues before reaching out to CX Racing. 1 - the mounts dont sit flush on the subframe ( Photos 1 & 4) . The bolt surface mates up fine, but the side pieces that have "cx racing" stamped on them have a fairly big gap against the stock subframe. This is present on both mount pieces 2 - The transmission mount. I ended up using the adapters that connect to the stock tranny ears. with the tranny mount installed, the rear bracket points (Where theyre supposed to bolt through the seat belt holes) don't line up on the drivers side. the passengers side i can probably fanagle, its not too bad ( Photo 5) , but the drivers side tunnel on my 280 has a larger hump, and the bracket is no where near even possible to bolting up, theres maybe a 5" gap before it reaches (Photos 2& 3 ). Last photo is taken in the car through the shifter showing the gap between the mount and drivers side tunnel. Has anyone had these issues before? Hoping this isn't a major flaw with the parts, i hear CX customer service can be hit or miss. And for some reason i can't find the youtube video for their install either..

Hi everyone. So ! im looking for a cell well ( ive only really looked into ATL's but if anyone has any other suggestions, speak up!) to fit into my spare tire well. i was originally going to cut the spare well out but decided against it, id like to keep the metal in tact for the most part. Has anyone been able to use the original fuel door with a filler neck to connect it to a cell well? I've seen some pictures before but cant seem to find them anymore. I'm not super thrilled about having to pop my trunk hatch and filling up inside the car, plus i dont want the car to smell like gas if i decide to get clumsy during fill up. i was going to use my stock tank, but would like to run dual exhausts, so having a cell well and having it function like stock during fill up would work perfect. plus i threw away my stock 280z tank when i moved... *facepalm* it was rusted anyway, oh well. if anyones seen this or done this before, or have any experiences please let me know! thanks! fyi - going into a 75 280z w/LSx. mostly going to be a cruiser but may have some drag/auto-X days in it.

here's the new one. need most of this stuff gone!!! http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/pts/5778873015.html

Many thanks!

im in the same boat, im looking to do the f-body alternator bracket ( lower drivers side) with the fbody tensioner (passengers side head) with out power steering. i'm sure its been done before, i'll be adding Johns Car's A/C bracket as well. With the low alternator, not sure how the belt will be ran to the water pump and harmonic balancer... ideas?

Been looking at a couple of media blasters but there aren't many local to where I am in the Bay Area (California) who wouldn't charge an arm and a leg. Quotes for the interior and engine bay were around $1200ish. The interior were wire wheeled and sanded with a sanding disk. 1 angle fringed can only do so much, lol. Maybe I'll look into media blasting it again. For some reason. All of the local ones aren't really doing it anymore. I've heard that once you media blast, it'd be difficult to get all of the media out of the car.

haven't tried a junk yard yet, i'll have to start looking around soon.

Hey everyone, not sure how many have embarked on the journey of stripping their car completely down, but mine is down to just the shell. Was able to successfully remove the interior and original sound deadening , that was a pain in the butt. Looking to recoat the interior, but not sure if i should town it down to the metal or not. My 75 280z had enamel paint, and its just about the worst experience getting it all down to bare metal. all of the nooks and crannies of the 40 yr old car are terrible to get clean. anyone undertake this task? i'll post some pictures soon, but at this point i may just leave it be and start coating over whats there. I might scuff everything down but thats about it. Need to fix some rust holes here and there, but the car won't be driven in the rain. I live in california, so for the most part i'll be driving it on nice days. Probably going to do some rust treatment but thats just about the max. i feel like i'd be opening a can of worms if i strip/media blast everything down. Im hoping to keep the car for awhile ( at least thats what i'm thinking of, for now). anyone take ever sit in the same seat i'm sitting? Kind of tired of sanding and wire wheeling, don't think i'll ever perfectly get it down to bare metal. Would love to, but i just dont think its worth the effort at this point. Let me know your experiences! Thanks! top pic is prior to any sanding, sound deadening was already removed. bottom pic is how it sits now. not sure why the pics came out crooked, sorry, lol