Kevkev5162

ill snap a few pics of the engine bay tmrw after work

Soooo, alot has gotten done but it seems like for every thing i get done a new problem pops up. Everything is assembled at this point, for now. while installing the exhaust manifold i managed to crack it and afterwards realized its a round port manifold on a p90 head, i bought one from a member here and i have it but havent put it on yet because i want to avoid unnecessary assembly/ reassembly. after researching the manifold issue i found out i have a p90 head on a block with stock dished pistons (bought a scope and looked through the plug hole) dropping my cr and I already have bought the intake and holley setup so im not going to switch to a turbo build this far along and i dont want to shave the p90 so that leaves the option of finding a n42 head to match the exhaust manifold i have. is there a stock cam that would work better than one that comes in the n42? the car starts right up, idles ok and runs decent but theres definitely alot of room for improvement in the power its producing, anyway, just a quick update, rims and tires that are going to be ran for a while are on, the carb still needs to be tuned, thinking about buying a gunson color tune, any advice on them? seems like it should be adequate to get it close enough until I bring it to a shop once everythings installed completely for tuning. i guess the next step is to find someone wanting to do a turbo build that will trade me a n42 w a cam for my p90

It's running, late night last night, got everything put back together, meant probably a few weeks of driving it to address any other issues that come up and make a plan for the head during that time

sorry madkaw, want to start w n42 and go from there, seems the best way to do it 1 step at a time, switch to n42 then plan for bottom end rebuild and switch to flat tops

Early or later e88?

Have a p90 head mounted on my n42 block, have Holley na set up so turbo isn't a feasible option, looking around for n42 head, willing to trade my p90 for it and cash one way or the other depending on what you have

I am going to do another comp test now that the motor runs. What type of scope would I use to check for the type of pistons? Is there a way to look through spark plug hole or measure through?

That could work out, I didn't want to keep putting out more $ at this point without some miles on the car. I did come across a n42 head on eBay with e88 cam, they want 400 shipped tho, what would the benefit of the e88 cam on that head do? Is your n42 stock?

Sorry, Internet's down, on my phone

This is osted in u build thread, done before alot of pars got ordered so car wasnt runing: Today's project after a 10 hr work day: drain oil, run a cpl quarts through to try to flush out gasoline. I borrowed a compression tester and did a check. The car is not running so the test will come back 10-15psi lower than operating temp from what I've read, also traces of gas in oil I think may make it lower as well. My results came back as follows: cyl 1: 155, cyl2:140, cyl3:140, cyl4:150 cyl 5:130 cyl6:150.

So I dove in, spent over 1000 so far in parts with out doing all my homework first. After looking for a replacement exhaust manifold discovered that I have a n42 block with p90 head. Everyone seems to want them for turbo builds but having just put a Holley 390 and Bob sharp intake and a turbo is not the way I want to go. I'm under the impression that unless the pi put flat top pistons my cr is gonna be 7.4. After alot of work I don't want to end up w a car that is less powerful than stock. So there's a few options, shave head, flat tops etc. I'm not ready for a top or bottom end overhaul right now. Is the logical solution to find someone that wants to trade a n42 w possibly some work done to it?there's one on eBay for 350 w spray bar? Is this fair? Wat should a p90 sell for, car has been running, idling, revved but not driven yet so p90 seems in good working order, thanks for any ideas all

For a definite answer: an eBay seller sent me a siezed leaky Holley red pump so I put my OEM pump back in to test the Holley and see if it would run, I regulated it down to 7 psi and ran the return into a 5 gal gas can, it worked but bypassed enough to fill the gas can up 2/3 of the way in less than 10min. I wouldn't want to take the chance w that much pressure and that much flow having a reg go bad or return line get obstructed

N47 square port w out any studs snapped off? If so I'll Paypal on Thursday at noon. Where's it coming from? Not light, not gonna b cheap, someone on eBay had one listed w 30 for shipping, hopefully we can find a shipping option the same or less

I have an n47 exhaust manifold on my 78. It's got a big crack across it so I'm looking for a replacement. I'm not using the egr port, any idea which stamped codesbolt up and have the same distance to the bottom exhaust flange, pattern etc?

Looking for an exhaust manifold that will fit 78 280z, mine is stamped n47, egr port will not be used so if there is compatible one w no egr that's fine, local to new Orleans is best to avoid shipping heavy item, thanks all

Also ordered the intake/exhaust stud kit from z store, looks like efi intake was secured to block w larger bolts and bsr manifold attache thru 2 smaller holes on either side of large bolt hole. Patiently waiting on parts now

thanks, im a little confused, you said you hope i got returnless style fpr?the one i ordered says its a return style. I ordered a holley red pump preset at 7psi iirc, i was going to run main fuel line from holley to filter under hood, then to return style fpr which would divert anything over adjustable psi through the return line back to tank,am I wrong in the operation and terms for fpr? I was also looking at location of stock pump and dont like the way the line runs up through frame then back down to pump and was planning on mounting pump closer to tank and as low as possible to aid gravity feed. i thought dead head setup was one line through non bypass or returnless fpr then to carb, hope i didnt get the wrong one. fpr also has gauge port which i fugured would be easier than adding on after fpr. I removed the stock pump and mounting assembly this weekend and cleaned the intake/exhaust mating surface with my dremel and a wire brush attachment. waiting on parts to come in efore i can do much else. thanks for the water jacket setup, i figured thats how it worked but wasnt sure where it was plumbed to on the block,

Remove the ac, its missing one of the hoses but the condensor and compressor are there, anyone wanting to add ac, let me know

Yesterday was a long day but still managed to motivate myself to put a couple hrs in. The intake and all efi components under the hood along with some wiring has been removed, everything came apart easily , not all the nuts and bolts were the same size so I can tell it was reassembled by someone not paying attention to detail, I now have a tub full of efi parts, if anyone has need for stock efi stuff let me know, dropping resistors, and, ecu are all good, injectors were shot, a few were solid varnish on the nozzles. Also because I usually do my summers in Maine to avoid the heat and this isn't a daily driver I decided to

Thanks, another local member has a set that I'm going to pick up next weekend but I'll keep it in mind in case something falls thru

I was fortunate to have the paint and body work already done, I'm far from set up to paint a car, I just did a pretty good backyard paint job on my 92 Honda vt1100 shadow but a motorcycle is a far cry from the setup needed to make a car come out good. I've often wondered what world someone must be living in to ever consider taking a unibit to lug nuts holes by hand and expect it to work. Intake gasket came today so tmrw I'll start stripping the old setup, no one has any ideas on how to set up vaccum ports to bsr Holley intake? There's only a few ports, does anyone know what must be hooked up to vaccum for car to run right?

Today's project after a 10 hr work day: drain oil, run a cpl quarts through to try to flush out gasoline. I borrowed a compression tester and did a check. The car is not running so the test will come back 10-15psi lower than operating temp from what I've read, also traces of gas in oil I think may make it lower as well. My results came back as follows: cyl 1: 155, cyl2:140, cyl3:140, cyl4:150 cyl 5:130 cyl6:150. Any input? The block has been repainted so I'm assuming the engines been out at some point for repair/overhaul. I think these numbers are good enough to work with considering non prime test circumstances.the outside temp tonite was 55 degrees as well, getting cold down here!

I was able to find an OEM one with one small chip for 20$ in Mississippi, I have it now and am going to try to install it this weekend. Thanks tho, where ya at in Nola? The po drilled the rims on it now from 4x4.25 to 4x4.5 w a cordless drill, they do not center and not all of the lug nuts go on. The same person I got the glass from has a set of 14" appliance mesh wheels I can pick up for 125$ just need to make it to Mississippi which will prob take a cpl weeks with my current work schedule. There's still a list of parts I'm trying to round up so if you have anything locally it could work out and save shipping time. I have a budget to get it done, not a shoestring one but not shooting for a show car either

The efi system was a mess, missing pieces, stuck injectors, butt splices and wiring gremlins everywhere along with the typical corrosion on terminals, after a week of tinkering it started, ran super rich, in somehow I later realized dumped at least a quart of gas into the oil. Things were hooked up incorrectly and after a while I made the decision to start new and do the Holley 4bbl conversion. I started ordering parts. I've bought a Bob sharp racing Holley intake, Holley 390 cfm carb, intake gasket, adjustable fpr w gauge and a distribution block to add circuits. The carb fuel pump will be ordered tmrw along with the throttle kit and air cleaner and a few relays to set up a fuel pump circuit and electric fan circuit. Here's a few pics of the parts I have so far. My first question is about the ports on the bsr intake. Facing the intake so that the writing on the intake is right side up, the port currently blocked off on the left should have an 1/8" Barb for distributor vaccum advance?, on the right the larger one is brake booster?, below the plenum there's a chamber with a port on each side, I think it's the water jacket like the Clifford intake advertises? Never seen on up close so I'm not sure tho. And one side is blocked off, so if its supposed to heat the mixture to better atomize the fuel by passing water from radiator through it then why would one side be blocked off? Not blocked, but a port with a cap on it? Fgoing to start stripping efi stuff and try to get intake installed this weekend if gasket comes in the mail so any ideas would be great. I'll try to take some pics as I go, sometimes get caught up in the work and just want to get it done. Thanks

Hey all, new here, posted a few times and and decided it was time to start my own thread. I know a little, know I need to learn a lot and am open to suggestions and input and am sure I'm going to have questions along the way. The story on the blue dog is that she was acquired in trade for a cpl weeks of nights and weekends working on one of the po's other cars. She was a far from finished project that had been sitting for 4 years. She came with a lot of uninstalled parts including the aero body kit, new in box which was fortunate because I had to put the bumpers from blue dog on the other 280z I was working on in trade. I temp painted and installed the body kit, rear hatch glass, head lights door handles blinkers tail lights, seats and all the other bits and pieces remove for paint. Installed the bigger master cylinder, drilled slotted rotors and Toyota 4x4 calipers up front and 240sx w drilled rotors in back, still need e brake cable. I bought a windshield but an overzealous neighbor who was helping managed to break it. I have since found another one for 20$.