[is my alt. bad?]

my alt went out a couple weeks ago, i was coming home from college and my batt kept dyeing, every-time i was at a stop the car would bog down simply because my foot was on the break and the light were draining the battery. finally the car turned off and i ended up pushing it into a parking spot. ( what i didnt tell you was it was raining and dark out) next thing you no some guy in a jeep backing out nails my in the passenger side fender and jeep. and all this happened the day b4 my 20th birthday lol. so the moral of this story is, alternators are ***.

[Quick Diff swap question]

Sorry your right i don't have CV's i have U joints. And another reason i want to swap it out is because i'm starting to feel it slip, that and the u joints in the propeller shaft are old. All this combined calls for some replacement. Eventually i want to do some serious upgrades to the engine but for now, college lol.

[Quick Diff swap question]

Hey guys, I have an 82 NA automatic so that means i have the R180 diff., Im not sure weather its long or short nose.

Basically i want to swap it out for an R200 with the same 3.54 gears. I want to know if my current CV axles and diff mounts will bolt up to another diff (R200)?

 

Thanks A lot!!

[R200 diff swap writeup]

Hey guys, i was reading and I'm kinda in the same boat. I have an 82 NA automatic so that means i have the R180 diff., Im not sure weather its long or short nose.

Basically i want to swap it out for an R200 with the same 3.54 gears. I want to know if my current CV axles and diff mounts will bolt up to another diff (R200)?

 

Thanks A lot!!

[My first Z!]

simply beautiful!! keep up the good work bro

[Your ways of spending your TAX RETURN for your Z]

-Lowering springs

 

-tokico shocks and struts

 

-and figure out a way to get both tires to turn lol, lsd or maybe weld lock my r180. Might be a waste but donuts are better when both tires are spinning!!

[Heater Control Valve (auto air)]

Yea the heater hose coming from the head bends towards the front of the car, under the injector fan then loops back around, valve, then trough the fire wall.

 

Is there another valve in the return line somewhere? I know there's a coolant temp sensor.

I think the core might be plugged.

 

thanks

[Heater Control Valve (auto air)]

so this is what happened....

 

 

almost as soon as i touched it lol. I guess it snapped due to the corrosion and still water.

 

but this is what i came up with instead of buying at new one, because i am a poor college freshmen.

 

 

Shizz-zam. I took a couple feet of heater hose and ran it FROM the head DIRECTLY into the heater core inlet, bypassing the broken valve. Then i added in a manuel shut off valve in between.

 

Now this is all working well in my mind. This is where is bites me.

 

I open the valve, let the car heat up, everythings good, I turn on the blower , and YES! warm air filling my car YES!

 

I hop out look under the hood and a few minutes later.... miss getting sprayed in the face by hot water blowing out of the coolant reserve!!!!!!!

so i hurried and closed the valve, the spray stopped and so did the hot air...

 

Help. what would cause the water to blow back like that?

[Heater Control Valve (auto air)]

i just went through the same problems w/ my 77 w/ a-c ..

 

here is what i used, along w/ a cable operated valve that was a push to close.

 

http://www.4s.com/Online%20Catalogs-eCatalog/Content.aspx

 

part # 74614

 

i am pleased to say that my system works GREAT now. and no leaky.

 

 

yea i found a sight where i can order this 4 seasons part. Thanks a lot! saves A LOT of money lol !

[Heater Control Valve (auto air)]

thanks a lot guys, guess i'll start with the vacuum!

[Heater Control Valve (auto air)]

help.... its cold... so cold.

[Heater Control Valve (auto air)]

ommm my heat dose not work and i think its because my auto air heater control valve has had it and is no longer working. For starters my air condition comes on only when it wants to. I've done everything to try and figure that one out and still nothing. But my defrost still works and blows air pretty strong.... just cold air.

 

When i squeeze the hoes into the valve while reving up, i can feel pressure building but not on the return hose. So i guess the heater core could be plugged but i'll start with control valve. Judging by the white and green corrosion all over it, i'll start there.

 

 

 

 

so what i want to no is, am i on the right track as far as replacing this first? And instead of using the auto air valve, cant i just rig up something like a manual valve that i can just twist the valve open and let the hot fluid through???? this would be so much easier because im afraid there might be a problem with me a/c control unit thats keeping the valve from opening.

 

Thanks!!!!!

[Broken Exhaust stud!!]

get a screw driver and tig weld the tip to the broken part of the bolt...then just twist and itll come out. worked for me

 

this will only work with a tig right? no mig?

[Broken Exhaust stud!!]

so there really is no other way but to just remove the bolt. i was alittle skeptic because i had to replace the thermostat/head gasket one time and im pretty sure some of that fluid curroded the bolt.

 

i actually like the idea of tig welding a screw driver to the bolt and backing it out.

 

i do have a question, what if i were to weld a bolt to the one thats already in there so that it sticks out about an inch and use a nut to tighten it down?? would this be worth it? thanks

[Broken Exhaust stud!!]

I kept wondering why i had to keep replacing the intake/exhaust manifold gasket, why it kept blowing, and why i kept smelling exhaust in front of the car. Until i actually looked for the cause.

 

Turns out the #1 (front of car) exhaust manifold stud broke off in the head.

 

Most people would was take the head off and take it to a shop and have them remove the bolt. Or take a tap to it and drill it out yourself. Neither of witch i want to risk doing on the head.

 

So without removing the head. I would like to know are their any alternative routes i can take. Like a really good sealant or some type of special glue or spacer...?

 

thanks

[280zx Turbo Help!!!]

i no none of this is helping but.. i would sell my legs to turbo my car... i wouldn't be able to drive it but I'd have a turbo zx.

[constant power wire for head unit?]

i keep having to reprogram my cd player everytime i get in and go.isnt there a constant power wire that keeps the memory on the car? or do i have to take it from the timer/clock in the dash?

[RPM Stall]

good ideas!

[Removing Intake/exhaust Manifold - Help!!!]

i did this about 3 hours ago,i had to replace my therastat-head gasket. you can take the intake manifold off with the throttle body and fuel rail all at onece by losening the 7 14mm bolts under the manifold then romove the 4 24mm bolts on top. after that remove the the pin and spring on the throttle rod. unplug all the vacum/electrical lines. and shiz-zam out she goes. i've had to do this servral times since installing gaskets and forgetting to tighten bolts,causing more blown gaskets.

 

oh and you will deff need 7-8in shaft extension.

[RPM Stall]

you guys are probably right about the TPS, i kinda thought it was an electrical problem thanks guys! its been drying out for a while so i'll give it a try.

[RPM Stall]

does it come up just fine, then abruptly come to a peak..... then "chug" or bog back down to idle speed, and is it at the same place on your RPMs every time?

 

 

yes i do have a cold air intake and it is pretty close to maf. it does stall out at the same rpm everytime, but the moment it hits that rpm its almost as if the car turns off then right back on... i can hold the gas all the way open and it will just keep doing this. so yes

[RPM Stall]

hey guys, its been a while since any problems with me car until earlier today when i declared my 82 zx to be the most reliable car i drive... way to go.

 

i was washing the car and i hosed the entire engine bay down. Then when i went to start the car it choked a little so i assumed i got a little water in the intake, no biggy right? wrong...

 

i let the car run, then dry out for 4 or 5 hours in the sun. Car idles good, just fine, but when i start driving or rev it up i can get past 2300 rpm... its like the moment the car hits 2300 rpm it SHOOTS back down in less than a second.

 

anyone no whats going on. i do have a major intake leak gasket leak but i don't think that would cause the rpm to drop down THAT FAST. and i don't think its the tps.

 

thanks

[Sign in if you own an s130!]

i agree it looks like it might be missing something, nevertheless it looks really good! did you use a combo of sheet metal and bondo to form the rear? looks like it may have been tricky.... good job!

[shaved intake 280zx, now won't start]

i think i may have found my problem causeing my power lag and loss of acceleration. im missing furthest left and furthest right exhaust/intake gasket.... sooo theres black carbon and exhaust leaking everywhere.

 

i got a new gasket and two bolts so im hoping this will fix my problem!!!!

[shaved intake 280zx, now won't start]

You're using PVC on your Z car?? haha

 

PCV = Positive Crankcase Ventilation.

 

The car sounds like it's camming? What does that mean?

 

Revv the motor up manually to about half throttle, and then play with the AFM under its plastic cover. If it runs better when you pull the weight counterclockwise its running too lean, and too rich if it runs better the other way.

 

haha oops.

 

yes sir, i have it between the bottom pipe under the TB and a vacuum line...

 

i'll try that this afternoon!