turbogrill

I got the one for 280zx. Sturdy and well design product. Very happy with my purchase. Not sure if it's worth it for daily driver, depends on how "spirited" your driving is I guess. It does allows you to adjust caster (can you do this on 240z?), so that is good. I used it in our race car.

Hi, After heavy cornering and low tank I get fuel starvation on my 280zx track car. It's an endurance racer so I need every drop of gas in the tank. I think I have maybe 2-5 gallons left when this happens. I know for BMWs there are kits you can buy that fixes this. Another solution is Fuel cell but that is ~$1000. Is this a common problem? Any solutions for this? Thanks

Front bumper on 1980 280zx NA is 37 lbs. This is the bumper and the mounts.

Ok! Got it. Seems like a lot of work to replace the pistons for the extra compression.

Very ambitious car. A few comments: - Can't Rebello pick a turbo for you? - 450 RWHP sounds like a lot! Not sure how you get all that down to the ground. - Converting to 4x100 + spacers is pretty straight forward. Opens up a lot. I would get 17" and WIDE tires - With good pads the brakes are OK. But if you are spending all this money an extra $1000 on a big cool brakes sounds reasonable. - Def. do something with suspension. - Get a roll bar at least - Get a strut tower brace from racetep - Racing steering wheel - Racing Harness

Interesting! - There is always the stroker option, but that is maybe a bit pricey? - I am curious if there is any camshaft options that could help, I don't see how same duration but higher lift could ruin your low end torque. - Are you sure you have dished pistons? F54 did come with flat right? Curious to hear what the other more knowledgeable people thinks.

Thanks for the input. Seems like you can't get good flow both at low lifts and high lifts. So it's important to optimize for the average lift. If the lift is 0.300 then it is more important to have a nice lift there than at 0.400. This article (www.datsport.com/racer-brown.html) even suggests that it might be a good guideline idea to have flow fall of a little before max valve lift (maybe typical for Datsun heads). HOWEVER! I guess all these flow charts are true at 100% VE. Highest VE is achived at torque peak (right?). I wonder how a flow chart looks for the same engine running at 3000 RPM and 6000 RPM.... Anyone knows?

Hi, Let us pretend that I get the following flow improvements with a head port. (tested in flow bench) Intake 0.1 Lift, 1% Improvment 0.2 Lift, 4% improvement 0.3 Lift, 10% improvement 0.4 Lift, 10% improvement 0.5 Lift, 14% improvement Exhaust 0.1 Lift, 10% improvment 0.2 Lift, 15% improvement 0.3 Lift, 27% improvement 0.4 Lift, 25% improvement 0.5 Lift, 25% improvement Given this data, could someone elaborate a little on how that would affect cam choice and also HP gains? Make up a scenario if you want! Trying to understand how all this stuff comes together...

Got it! Thanks Remeber what timing you ended up with? I am also doing a MS soon.

That has to make some heads turn in Sweden! (What does the local P1800 fanatics say?) I assume the all that salt vägvärket pours must eat the poor Z cars. Our 1980 280zx is rusty as it is, and it's in Texas!

Nice build. Care to share the curve? Curious to she how the power is delivered.

Hi, Can installing a strut tower brace change my camber? For various reasons I have to do an alignment (race shop) on Monday but will get my triangular strut tower brace on Tuesday. Since the strut brace will push the towers outwards I am worried that it might mess up the camber. It is possible to change camber by pulling/pushing the struts outwards/inwards to the car I have T3 tension rods, MSA camber kit and stock struts (with different springs and shocks). This strut brace, http://www.racetep.com/automaker/datsun-z/z-car-front-ultimate-strut-tower-brace/datsun-280zx-ultimate-strut-tower-brace.html Car is 1980 280zx.

Hi, I am planning to build a race car engine for my 280zx endurance Chumpcar racer. It's all amateur hobby racing and nothing professional, still it would suck very much if it breaks during a race. I am doing this 50% for power and 50% for reliability. I am a beginner hobby mechanic. I got all the OHC Nissan books My goals: - 100% for 10hours without blowing up several times a year. - Usable range 3500 - 7000 RPM (To keep cost down and keep some reliability) - 200HP crank (but 250 would be fantastic) Engine will consist of the following: - Megasquirt fuel only (can't do timing due to race regulations) - Race camshaft (Schneider 284-92F is a good candidate, 284/292 (236/244 @ 0.05"). 488/.504 lift) - MSA Headers - F54 block - N47 head (worth spending $650 for a Lonewolf porting?) - Some exhaust (2"?) I have a F54 block that comes with pistons but no head. This is what I plan to do: 1. Replace piston rings 2. Replace main and rod bearings 3. Replace all gaskets 4. New waterpump 5. New oilpump 6. New cam springs 7. New rocker arms 8. Should I get new pistons (block comes with pistons)? 9. Should I get a new Timing kit? Is there anything I should add to my todo list? Does the cam make sense? Is there something that is specially hard that I should leave to a professional? First time I ever mess with engine internals. I am not super tight on budget but forged pistons is way out of my budget. Many thanks

Hi, The the joints on my cross rod is going bad. The cross rod is the center piece of the power steering, see picture for details. There parts are very hard to find, browsing at forums ebay or special order from Japan is the only solution. Anyone have any clues for something easier?

Not trying to do a carb vs EFI thing here! BUT! I it seems like putting carbs on a stock L28 engine will improve HP? Or is that not the case? If so why? On a stock engine the EFI system should be able to perform a similar task?

Hi, I am a little confused in how ITB/DTB can give MORE horse power. I understand that it improves response since there is a short path for the air to travel once you hit WOT. So to me it seems like it only helps with the respons when opening and closing the throttle. Once the pedal is open air should flow anyhow? Or does it improve flow as well, so it makes up for a restrictive intake?

I am trying to understand this. What gives you so much power for something that is so stock? Just the header and intake? Does the MS give you anything? What did you do to go from 112 to 140?

Hi, There are many reports of OEM tension rods snapping when poly bushings are being used. But how about OEM tension rod bushings and stock tension rods? Is there any reports of stock tension rods snapping in this scenario as well? Car is a chumpcar racecar, it's an 1980 280zx with some suspension upgrades. If this is the case I will get a pair of Techno toy tension rods. Thanks

Hi, What is the maximum valve lift before the valve hits the piston on a 280zx? Seems like everything <.500" is fine but I can't find any exact numbers. Some people are running low .500" as well. I cannot seem to find an answer to this pretty simple question! Thanks

Hi, Thank you for the information and the clarification of the lingo! Could you say that a dual cam profile might give you a more "exptionential" power curve compared to a little more linear power curve from single cams? So a dual cam might have higher peak but lower avg hp? Example (taken out of the blue): - Dual profile. Avg HP 3000-6000 RPM: 190, Peak HP: 260 - Single profile. Avg HP 3000-6000 RPM: 220, Peak HP: 240 Given my requirements are road racing, 3000-7000 RPM. What specs determines what cam to use and how? Is it compression? Head flow? Headers? Fuel delivery?

Hi, Any one have any clues? Will an asymmetrical benefit when the exhaust is restricted such as not having headers? I suspect there is more to it than that. (I refer a asymmetrical cam as being exhaust duration differs from intake duration.) I am comparing these cams Schneider cams (click the image for full size): Engine is Megasquirted L28, headers and N47 head. (Stock 8.3 comp) It's for a racer so really don't care about <3000 RPM. I have been trying to figure out how important a symmetrical vs asymmetrical cam is for the L28 engines, google doesn't give much.

Interesting! Got any more details? Did it start to pull from 3000 rpm to 6000 or so? Thanks

Hi, Is it a bad idea to have a mild race cam and stock static compression 8.3:1. I have headers and megasquirt. Car is a endurance race car so everything <3000 rpm doesn't matter. This is the cam: (http://schneidercams.com/284-92F_L6.aspx) Intake Duration (gross): 284 Exhaust Duration (gross): 292 Intake Duration (.050”): 236 Exhaust Duration (.050”): 244 Intake Valve Lift*: .488" Exhaust Valve Lift*: .504" I am planning on increasing compression later on.

I am leaning towards something like that. A NA build will be 1.5x of the turbo cost for less HP, that is fine if I am paying for reliability. The 280zx has 170 crank HP gross , it has 135 crank HP net.

Hi, How reliable is a stock turbo engine vs a NA engine? My concern with turbo is that it is an additional thing that can brake while doing 10h+ endurace racing. The car is a 1980 280ZX NA and I need a little more power. 170-200 crank hp is fine. A typical race is 10hours non stop of going balls to the walls. This puts a tremendous stress on everything and all kinds of things brake all the time. Overheating and fuel consumption is also a problem. Reliability is MUCH more important than performance for endurance racing. (A shitty team with a shitty car will place much better than a "pro" team that has car issues, it is all about keep the car running). Any thoughts?