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turbogrill

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Everything posted by turbogrill

  1. Hi, My current 280zx is very rusty, I found a shell that has much less rust. Would you consider this being low on rust? The passenger frame rail looks the worst: Driver floorpan has rust Driver side frame rail looks better: These are the spots I could find.
  2. Hi, The 280ZX 79-81 brakes are not great, they might stop OK but I have had some quality issues on my race car. It's also a pain to replace pads. Oddly the high quality wilwood pads are also cheaper than aftermarket race pads, so in the long run this will save you money A word of warning: - I believe this only works on 79-81 - This will remove your handbrake - Piston area is about the same but this might change brake bias, not sure how it affects your car - The pad will overhang the end of the rotor by ~1.5mm. This might cause noise. - The caliper will not be centered over the rotor. This means that piston might extend more than designed for when pads are completely worn (Rotors are 0.36-0.37" thick. Caliper rotor max is 0.38" min rotor is 0.25". So from the pistons perspective it's the same as I running with a rotor being 0.015" below minimum disc diameter when the pad is completely worn out.). Don't run your pads until they are completely gone. - Make sure you get the correct adapter. A M10x1 non-Metric inverted flare is not the same thing as Metric inverted flare. They have different angles on the flare. Also make sure no to get bubble flare. This is what's needed: - 2x Wilwood Billet DynaPro Calipers 120-9689 (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-120-9689) - 2x M10x1 Metric Inverted flare to NPT adapter ( https://www.flyinmiata.com/npt-to-metric-flare-adapter.html) 1. Remove the old caliper.Fit the new caliper and you will now see 2 things that needs to be fixed. a, There is a tiny ridge on the strut that needs be removed (dremel works well) b. The caliper mounting holes are off a tiny bit. Grind away some material in either top or bottom mounting hole on the caliper. 2. (Optional) To solve the issue with caliper not being center you can either make the caliper mounting area thinner or reduce the thickness of the hub mounting holes. I didn't do this step. 3. Screw in the adapter into the caliper and then screw in your brake line into the adapter. You might want to add a brake hose or pull the hard line. For the front I would recommend Silverminemotors 300zx brake swap, affordable and easy. I bought the proportion valve from Flyin Miata and replaced the stock with that.
  3. Hi, On my 280zx I have 15x10 4.5 BS with 245 Maxxis VR-1 tires. I have about a pen clearance between strut and wheel on the fronts. No rubbing so far, sure it sticks out like crazy. These are the wheels I got, https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Bassett-50ST4B-15X10-D-Hole-Lite-4-on-4-5-4-Inch-BS-Black-Beaded-Wheel,72130.html
  4. Hi, On my 280zx I have 15x10 4.5 BS with 245 Maxxis VR-1 tires. I have about a pen clearance between strut and wheel on the fronts. No rubbing so far, sure it sticks out like crazy. These are the wheels I got, https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Bassett-50ST4B-15X10-D-Hole-Lite-4-on-4-5-4-Inch-BS-Black-Beaded-Wheel,72130.html
  5. Hi Our head gasket just blew on the track. We are about to replace it in 1-2hours and try and make the race. 1. I don't have a spare exhaust/intake gasket. Can I reuse the existing one you think? Its only been there for 2h running time (3 weeks sitting in garage) 2. Since I dont have a exhaust/intake gasket. Do I have to remove the headers? Could i lift of the head with intake and exhaust still on? Thanks
  6. It all depends on what you want to do, imo it makes sense to convert stock efi to carbs for hot street or race. I did a megasquirt conversion and it takes a lot of time. But its awesome if you are on the geeky side
  7. I think the conclusion is that carbs is "better" than stock EFI since its easier to tune for aftermarket cams. But a well working EFI will always be better. However, seems like ITBs are cheaper using carbs?
  8. Hi I bought a cam used without cam card (shabolt m445, same as colt cams 542). What should I set the valve lash to? Stock? I read a post saying that a 0.001" change can affect timing up to 5degrees! I checked the cam timing on cyl #1 intake, and its about right. I only have data floating around on internet so hard to make it exact. Should I atleast make sure that all valves have the exact clearance? What happens if its off? Premature wear? Its for a race engine, someone told me to just make it as tigjt as possible. Not sure about that.
  9. Do you know if they are logic 5v driven as the LS and above VAG ones?
  10. Hi, Has anyone used Jetta/Golf (032 905 106B) wasted spark drivers with MS2? They are for 4 cyl so I guess two of them would be needed . http://www.msextra.com/doc/pdf/html/Microsquirt_Hardware-3.4.pdf/Microsquirt_Hardware-3.4-62.html
  11. I am running this , https://www.summitracing.com/parts/acl-nx1-hdg6 Combined with a light flywheel it's pretty racy and nice.
  12. I would think the only downside with higher lift is it harder to build. More thought need to put into drivetrain stability and piston to valve.
  13. I think Techno Toy Tuning sells some parts that are used for Rally, maybe send them an email and see what they say.
  14. haha!!! All of a sudden I feel weak and useless.....time to man up. Yes this should be in the FAQ/Guide/Writeup as "How to remove head"
  15. Hmm...so you are saying it should just lift off easily? I had a shop inspect the head, I would assume they checked it. Now you made me nervous... edit: I am pretty sure the cylinder head shop inspected it for straightness, could the block be slightly warped? I have less trust in the machine shop doing the block than the cylinder head guy. Also the head went on just fine, I then tried to remove it directly after and that is when I had problems. (I did a mockup install to check everything). I also tried to remove it myself, maybe it would have worked with a helper. I could lift of the head halfway but as soon as the head got a little tilted it got stuck on the studs.
  16. Hmm....maybe the bolt was so rusted on the stud so I actually got the stud+bolt out. Lucky you I am looking at getting Pallnet or Datsun Sprit kit, $40-$60 for some fasteners....
  17. Hi, Does some heads use studs and some bolts for the exhaust and intake manifold? On my old engine (N47/N47) I have two studs for the exhaust manifold and rest bolts. For the new engine I am building (F54/old N47) I have two bolts and rest studs. I am confused....
  18. Hi, In order to properly fit a trigger wheel on my crank I have a very thick massive spacer, diameter is as wide as the crank pully spacer and it's almost as high as the pully it self. Would this extra weight cause any lack of performance/responsiveness? All the weight is at the center and in a close radius. Here are some pictures:
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