Aero Z

I used a 90deg switch that came on the 2001(that gen) Mustang GT. Got from Rockauto or Amazon to get best price. Has worked perfect for 8 years. from this thread. Part number in that thread.

Here's how I did mine in my 240z. I think I just played around with the spacing and set them in as far back as they go on the slides to figure out where they should mount.

I converted my 73 to the 72 style so have my old bumper and brackets sitting around. The bumper itself looks nice when mounted. There is one small 'dent' in part of it. The top and front is pretty shiny and clean. The bottom side has some surface rust but it would probably clean up. The inside has moderately more surface rust and there may be two very small rust through spots but they're square so it might be factory holes (?). The black rubber is intact and haven't looked underneath to see if rusty. I have the brackets and they're in good shape. What would be a fair price for all? Bottom Bottom Top Front

Looks very nice. I would recommend adding Techflex over or just replace that plastic wiring loom stuff which doesn't look nice in my opinion. The techflex comes in various types of protection. I added the large diameter thermal stuff over the main wiring loom that comes thru the firewall and down the rail. I added the smaller diameter regular wrap (not as insulating) over the rest of the wiring. You can just replace the plastic loom or add over it where you want. It comes in split seam just like the plastic loom so you can add with the connectors in place. Very easy to do. You can buy it at amazon as well or other places. https://www.techflex.com/prod_f6n.asp

Use the Torque app to also monitor what your 02 sensors are reading as you get on the throttle. If they're not working correctly it could affect it. i would suspect only one (not throw both codes) would quit though instead of both at the same time. Something to maybe eliminate as the problem.

I used the same mat material and put a layer of their Ensolite foam on top of that. I put it down when redoing the car so no way to compare to not having it there. Seems like it does really well. Both seem very good quality and were cheaper than the inflated prices of dynamat etc. Also the seller is very good...or at least was years ago.

The price he's come down to (19k) might be a decent deal for a properly sorted car where everything works and might have few very minor issues. The car seems more and more like a swap just thrown together to flip, The time to get the gauges working is when you do the swap. He states the car has no issues whatsoever...except the gauges don't work, the wiring looks like spaghetti, the windows dont work etc etc etc. Probably a lot more you wont see until you go look at it.

The PS pump bracket is easy to replace so to me that speaks laziness on the swap. IMO. The 'cold air inlet' is the way most of the LSx swaps are done. Again a little more work running it through z structure but better. Its just 4" polished aluminum tubing. I also notice he has a gauge cluster sitting on top of the dash. Make sure all the main factory gauges work with the LS swap. If not he took the easy way out again. Before you spend time to go look at it I'd ask what's the highest offer he's turned down. If its more than you want to spend or still high for the condition its in I wouldn't waste my time. Unless its A LOT better than it appears no way I'd pay half what he's asking.

Car looks a lot like mine. That messy wiring in the engine bay is pretty bad. Is that blue painters tape on some things? When I see a car with such little care taken on making things tidy and neat I start to look at everything else that was done to make sure it wasn't a hack job. Definitely worth checking out but really go over the car. That motor still has the power steering pump on it...but he doesn't mention he added it...not sure what's going on with that or how he's making that work. Compare that to my engine pic which has similar mods. I'm no wiring expert but no way I'd have my engine compartment look like that. Just washed car so thats not rust in the engine bay fenders...just water drops.

I also did a writeup from when I did this. Very simple. Like mentioned above you don't (and probably dont want to) use all of the 350z rails. Just weld to the seat structure directly. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/103970-another-350z-seat-install-for-tall-people/?do=findComment&comment=972398

I have a RX7 FD LS2 in addition to the Z. The Z 'feels' lighter and just as fast the RX7. I think the Z gets more attention but I do like the looks of the RX and its a bit more modern. I wouldn't 'upgrade' from my Z as I don't think I'd sell it to get something else. The other cars would go first. Unless I can find someone wanting to trade their Mclaren for my Z.

Don't forget to look into the BART to maybe get around San Fran those days. You may look for places within walking distance of a Bart station. You can catch it at airport and go downtown close to Fishermans wharf etc. Finding parking, parking fees and traffic in the area is terrible! We went a few years ago and didn't get our rental car until we left SanFran to go up the coast etc.

We may come to the show but not sure what car we'd bring. Probably won't be autocrossing the Z though.

The same Porsche event with autocross is this weekend. https://www.facebook.com/events/1705750732972833/ should go and autocross your z this time.