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cheftrd last won the day on July 18 2009

cheftrd had the most liked content!

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  1. Z32 RB26 swap

    Shifter should stay in the same spot, as you're using the Z32 rear housing and mount. Clutch will be RB26. Spline is the same, so there are no mods required if you are using RB26 front case. Questions about RB25 are both yes. I still have one aluminum rear sump pan for dropping 26 into S30. Will part with it for $200 plus freight. You must fab pick up, and desired sump baffling. Probably need modding to go into Z32, as well.
  2. Haltech and RB CAS

    Link to my page which has some of the stuff on it: https://www.facebook.com/mjrperformance/ I mostly just dabble in high performance these days. Nothing very serious. Build and tune engines for a couple of teams. Sell, install, and tune Haltech when time permits. Don't know if you can view without being friends, but this is his Hakoska album: https://www.facebook.com/kazuma.okuhama/media_set?set=a.489249354470777.1073741825.100001571511640&type=3 ...and Z album: https://www.facebook.com/kazuma.okuhama/media_set?set=a.109482819114101.12869.100001571511640&type=3 ...and Z restore album: https://www.facebook.com/kazuma.okuhama/media_set?set=a.1162347173827655.1073741829.100001571511640&type=3 If you send me a friend request, you also might get in that way... https://www.facebook.com/matt.hutchens.7
  3. Haltech and RB CAS

    For some reason, the Platinum systems don't like using rising edge on Nissan Optical. No idea why, but I tried that early on with this car, with bad results. That's probably why I didn't consider it rotating backwards...LOL. 24-1 to me means twenty four dash one, as in twenty four on the trigger, and one on the home I'm really hard to understand sometimes... I almost never use missing tooth triggers, so it never crosses my mind that I might be confusing the hell out of people LOL. Sorry. Anyway, these CAS adapters from Dookies have a less-that-desirable shaft quality. If I'm ordering the parts, I'll use a Scorcher unit from Performance Ignition in the future. Thanks for your replies. Matt
  4. Haltech and RB CAS

    Got it fired up today. Runs like a champ. I've done 6 Elite systems so far. The Elite system is much, much more sophisticated. Even though the tuning software seems kind of the same, it's not. There's a lot more stuff to monkey with, and not a lot of definitions or explanations. It's a very advanced level system that requires advanced level knowledge. I really struggled with it at first, it was a steep learning curve. The online support is pretty good though. Using the ESP software with a wireless internet connection, the guys at Haltech can help with troubleshooting remotely if you need it. They've also been really helpful at answering questions and explaining things in depth.
  5. Haltech and RB CAS

    That's what I did. When I talked to Matt at Haltech, he thought flipping it was a better option, too. There's something in the way the trigger is set up when Nissan optical is selected, that doesn't like rising edge. Conversely, when using an Elite system, it wants to see riding edge. Anyway, flipped it over, and only had to slightly elongate the two holes for the screws. Going to try to get over and give it a crank today. Fingers crossed, but 99% sure this will work.
  6. Haltech and RB CAS

    Thanks for the replies. Got it worked out yesterday... Was able to spin the CAS 180° and use the 24 tooth window as Home...same problem. Next step: Even though the signal at the ECU is clean on the o-scope, I couldn't get away from it being an engine problem. So I figured we'd spin it without using the engine. I pulled the CAS again, didn't have drill, as I was at the owners house, so I wrapped a string around the CAS shaft, turned off the injectors, and gave at a whirl. Datalog showed a CLEAN ramp with no drop-out's. That turned on a bunch of lights for me. So with the CAS out, cranked the engine... ...and the L distributor spins the opposite way... Wrapped the string again, only to spin it backwards, gave it a whirl, and the drop-out's were back. Pulled up a known-good waveform I have for Nissan 6 cylinder CAS and started counting teeth. When spun in the correct direction, there are 60 falling edges on the Trigger signal between each falling edge of the 6X windows used for Home signal. The 6X windows are all uniquely sized 4-8-12-16-20-24 teeth. When the CAS is spun backwards, there are 56 falling edges on the Trigger signal for 5 of the Home falling edges, and then one 80 falling edge signal. If I counted right, if using the rising edge on the Home signal, that should give you 60 teeth on the Trigger signal. Going to try this today, and if there's still something goofy, I'll put a 24-1 AEM disk in it. Interesting that this is a kit that's sold here in Japan, but no mention of trigger problems, that I can find. With the uneven count running backwards, there's no way it would run any EFI without the ability to change edges, or a custom disk, etc...
  7. Haltech and RB CAS

    Wondering if there are any members here running Haltech and an RBXX CAS for signal, and if so, what are your trigger settings? ECU is PS2000. Having a problem with "rpm drop-out's" where the ECU "thinks" the rpm has fallen, but hasn't... Starts and idles clean (296° cam), but the drop-out's, as viewed in the data-log picture, are playing havoc with ignition timing, target lambda, etc. Battery voltage to the CAS is good, no voltage drop present on the CAS ground, and the 6X/360X CAS signal is clean when scoped at the ECU. For giggles, tried another CAS, and another new PS2000 ECU, with the same outcome. Ignition timing is dead on, using the 12 tooth window for Home, the Tooth Offset has no affect (so it's zero), and the trigger angle is 100°. The ECU gets engine RPM from the 6X trigger signal (per Haltech). I can't count the number of Nissan's I've tuned using the optical CAS, and this is the first time I've had a problem like this. Although the Home window is selectable, all of the RB's use the 24 tooth window by default, and the PRO systems for the GT-R's it's not even selectable. This is the first engine I've used the optical CAS on, that didn't come with it. This has me wondering if the ECU doesn't like anything but the 24 window for Home? That's all I have left to check, but it requires pulling the pump to change the shaft location. With the above taken into account, it "feels" like a sensor/ECU compatibility issue. No problem with the CAS. No problem with the ECU. No problem with the actual signal. ECU just doesn't like the signal...but it works fine if on the engine it came with. Some ECU manufacturers have trouble with the optical CAS resolution, so they have aftermarket disks; Haltech isn't one of them. So before sticking a 60-2 wheel on the crank, and a modified distributor for the Home signal, I thought I'd run it by the biggest L forum in the world Got another one in the wings, with the same set up , waiting to be finished, so I have to get this worked out... Thanks for any input.
  8. RB Rebuild

    Pix working again... I let my hosting package lapse, and always forget that the pictures are hosted there...
  9. RB Rebuild

    Standard polyurethane car paint works, as well. A bit more involved,as you have to mix it and should use some flex to keep it less brittle, but it's pretty impervious to solvents, gasoline, oil, and what not. Anything in a spray can will work, but my be more suseptible to chemicals, rust, etc.
  10. OG still rockin the RB26....

    Great numbers. That's a lot of squeeze on stock pistons.
  11. RB25DE (NA) cams suggestion

    Longest Pon cam Tomei advertises is a 260 for NEO and HLA. They don't go up to 270 until you go to solid. Also, you can't (or shouldn't) run a cam for HLA, and then switch to solid lifters later. You need to do everything up front, whatever you're going to do. Best bet for max power is the 270 Pro Cam with 10.25 lift. LCA around 105 degrees. This will require the lifters, springs, light weight retainers, etc. Cheapest bet, but still good, would be the Pon 260's. No additional mods needed, but you could use a set of springs if you wanted. Ports wouldn't need more than a general clean up to clear the sharp edges in the bowl. Don't touch the chamber. Cheers.
  12. High idle, whistling sound coming from Intake/IAC

    Smoke or fogging machine puts smoke into the intake tract to find leaks. Propane is used around the intake to find leaks also. If you find a leak, it'll speed up the engine. This method has "risks"...LOL. If you unplug the IAC and there's very little change, then you have an air leak somewhere behind the throttle(s).
  13. RB CAS Adapter for an L engine?

    I've used a Scorcher dual hall sensor dizzy from Performance Ignition on a big block Chevy with Haltech PS2000. Nice piece of gear. Are you talking the adapter, or a whole distributor?
  14. RB CAS Adapter for an L engine?

    Old, hard to find, I've had remans not work right out of the box. RB's are free for the asking. Direction does matter, you need to flip the disk. EDIT: Just in case someone comes across this again, I've edited it to reflect the correct info where the direction does matter. If spun in reverse, the RB window count will show 56 falling edges on the trigger between the first five falling edged of the home window (6X), and then one 80 falling edge signal... That causes all kinds of trouble. With the disk spun in the correct direction (flipped over with a small elongation of the screw holes), there are 6 times 60 falling edges on the 360X signal between home falling edges.
  15. Quick search shows nothing for an adapter to put an RB CAS on an L engine turbo distributor. Pretty simple, but before I machine one from scratch, I was hoping someone might know of some place selling them. it's a pretty common mod here in Japan, but they're all custom built... Cheers.