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RiggetyWrecked

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    Central North Carolina

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  1. Well... after some more extensive digging into the chassis, I do believe mine is rusted past the point of no return. At least past the point that my budget and skill set could return it, anyhow. After cutting out the passenger floor pan, I found rust all the way up the tilted pan the goes under the rear seat hump, as well as a good portion of the underside of hump part. 2/3 rocker vertical members and the bottom of the quarter were also completely rotted from the wheel well to almost a foot forward. The driver's side isn't looking a whole lot better. New plan: Sell of anything salvageable (suspension, diff, subframes, body panels), and start fresh with a ZX platform, as I understand they are sturdier and less prone to rust. My interest and skills are definitely more on the mechanical side of the spectrum VS body and fab work. Chock this up as a learning experience, I guess.
  2. Pulled the trigger on the order. 1x3 .065 for the rails. 18g for the floors. Fingers crossed.
  3. ^Nice! The 3800 kind of fell into my hands and I've already done all of the wiring for it (full custom harness). The 3500 Seems sweet though. Is the trans mount pattern the same as the older FWD V6s (GM 60* metric)?
  4. I know it's going to be a bit of work, but I have a lot of free time to throw at this right now. My floors are at full Flintstone status and the rails are totally rotted out, so those things are definitely getting rebuilt. I just thought it would be silly to do that much and not connect the subframes while I'm down there. I can do the other items incrementally as I please. While it is a street car, I'll be running a stripped interior because I'm already half deaf and just generally predisposed to be "that guy", so going back in on it won't be much more than grinding off some primer/spray paint, welding and then repainting the afflicted area. Cheers.
  5. That is relevant info. Definitely gives me something to think about. Thanks. Ian
  6. I do plan on doing most of the things on the list. I really was just looking for info on the SFCs themselves. How much is too much/dead weight. Thanks for the swift replies. Ian
  7. I'm not going to cage it (again, street car). I may do stitch welding in conjunction with the SFCs if it turns out to be necessary. To be as explicit as possible, I want the frame to not wonk itself up under the torque it will have or from the stiffer springs which it will get at some point. That's my end game for the chassis -- avoid self destruction and hopefully let the suspension actually do its job.
  8. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. I don't intend to drag race. It's going to be a street car that I may end up auto-crossing with. I chose the 3800 V6 because of its potency given that it is dimensionally smaller than just about any V8, so I can keep the mass low and center (not to mention they're cheap and plentiful where I live). My focus is to have a car that will corner and accelerate well. Ian
  9. Hello, my name is Ian. I'm new here. Long story short, I have a 280Z 2+2 that will be receiving a supercharged Buick 3800, which should be making around 300lb/ft of torque with basic bolt-ons. I'm trying to get the frame more or less situated before I commence the swap. The floors and under floor rails are completely trashed, but the rest of the structure appears to be sound after ripping out all the interior. I'm getting ready to order materials to build SFCs and new floors, and I'm torn between getting 1x3 .065 tubing or 2x3 .083. My natural tendency is to overbuild, but will 2x3 .083 be serious overkill for a primarily street driven car? I don't mind a tad bit of extra weight if it's worth the added stiffness. Sorry if this has been discussed already. I've been browsing searching and browsing the fab forum, but haven't seen any definitive answers one way or the other. Regards, Ian
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