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About Oblithian

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  1. Ignition Coils

    Interesting, so the Zstore must have been referring to a system bypassing the external resistor. For their selection. Thank you, I will look for a replacement with resistance closer to those specified.
  2. Ignition Coils

    Please attempt to answer the given question.
  3. Fuel Injector Upgrades/Swap

    Don't you need more than just an adapter to swap to the newer EV6/14s (i.e. saturated)? (not physically, I mean in terms of current and control)
  4. Ignition Coils

    I have a 1975 280z and am about to order some aftermarket ignition components (for more reliable spark at high rpm). The ZStore recommends the Pertronix Flame-Thrower I for the coil. However, the OE coil that's in there now only has s 0.8 ohm primary resistance, where as the recommended has 1.5ohms. Are your coils about the same as mine or is it supposed to be closer to 1.5 ohms? If the former, wouldn't it be better to go with a 0.7ohm msd blaster 2? Even the 0.6 ohm Flame-Thrower II would be closer. I am not planning on bypassing the ballast resistor.
  5. Datsun Badge 74-78

    Do the early model emblems fit (or could be made to) on the late models? In other words does the 70-73 decklid emblem fit the 74-78s?
  6. Datsun Badge 74-78

    If anyone could help me out that would be great. My "Datsun" badge just got stolen off my hatch/deck lid (decklid) while renewing registration. Does anyone have one leftover from putting on a spoiler, or know where I could buy one? Alternatively, someone with one might be kind enough to make a rendered file of it and share it with all of us so we can get some 3D printed. We should compile a folder of files for every random plastic component so we can just print them. I think I will get started with some fender badges.
  7. 280Z Hood Vent Placement?

    Right, A low pressure would be much better for a draw from on top of the hood. I was thinking of draw from under the car, though it would likely be warmer so that is not the best concept. Even though flow would be higher, it would likely be moot because of how much higher vacuum pressure is than air.
  8. Ecoboost swap

    Please take many pictures or videos for us!
  9. No Start After Cold Snap

    Thanks! Anyway I just got it started. I pulled the plugs, blew the fuel out, cleaned the fouling, put them back in, disconnected the 7th injector and it started. Your suggestions have all been quite helpful.
  10. No Start After Cold Snap

    Hmmm. Would there be a modern HEI that is easy to install? By which I mean, only requires rewiring at the distributor/cool. ...Or I could just swap to injectors with better atomization.
  11. No Start After Cold Snap

    I will pull a couple of plugs to see. Then try starting fluid. Unless the circuits have frozen in a way that interrupts conductivity or increases resistance, I am not sure how it could be receiving too low of voltage. The battery is fully charged and a jump did not help. I took just about every device that makes heat and attempted to heat every key part of the car... which also included the key at one point, as the door lock was frozen).
  12. No Start After Cold Snap

    I like the last suggestion. It is a 75 and it is fuel injected. It almost started today. It seems like perhaps the thermotime may have flooded the engine when it was simply too cold the first day. Then I just didn't give it enough time and compounded the problem on the following days?
  13. I generally keep my car in the garage in the winter. So far, it has only had the occasional struggle starting when left out in the cold. However, this last weekend it was down to -37C, and I was over at a friend's place now it's Tuesday, -10C, and it still wont start (cranks but no firing at all). I have heated it well beyond what it should need to start (using several devices). with no luck. I have found the following, the pump still works, there is spark, it cranks just fine, and it won't start even when jumped. It runs and starts just fine above +5C (with no external heater). There is a possibility the fuel lines have frozen but that seems unlikely, and I have no way to test compression, but I hear that is another possibility. Does anyone have ideas or suggestions?
  14. Best oil for a 280Z?????

    So I've been running 10W-30 for about a year and a half with no issues. However, in Australia they mainly run 60 weight oil, and the late-80s L28 Patrols run 10w-40. Is the low viscosity going to increase wear? Also, would it be worthwhile moving to 5W-30 in the winter (if it is often -20 Celsius or colder)? Not that 10W would even matter if you can run 20w-60 at -3 degrees....
  15. Alternator Pulley Size

    Oh, After chicken man's comment and yours I was looking at a swap. I picked up a 300zx alternator, plopped it in now and threw in the diode. The linked page is a bit confusing but for anyone doing this later: I left the old voltage regulator hooked up (So I can convert it back to original easily). Connections wise, L from the old (WB) to L in the new. IG (Y) to S (See chickenman's pic of connectors above). Aside from that, everything new goes on the same as it was (The new post 12v post is wider, so you need a wider end). You can pull the leads out of the old T and slide them right into the new connector (used an old keyring and hammered the tip flat for a tool). Lastly, the line on the diode goes toward the alternator in the L wire (WB).