Jump to content
HybridZ

OSU-zanatic

Members
  • Content count

    7
  • Donations

    0.00 USD 
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About OSU-zanatic

  • Rank
    Newbie

Profile Information

  • Location
    Corvallis OR
  1. 1972 240z with L28 5 Speed, Clutch issues

    Kept adjusting and testing and I believe I have it right, a little bit of play so it fully disengages and I can shift into every gear. Although reverse grinds pretty bad, any Ideas?
  2. I have a 1972 240z with an L28 and 5 speed transmission, all swapped before I got the car. I just finished a clutch replacement where I; replaced the rear main seal, pilot bushing, clutch and pressure plate, had the flywheel resurfaced and replaced the the outer seals and gasket on the transmission. Refilled transmission with Redline MT-90 and bled the slave cylinder with Valvoline DOT 3&4 synthetic brake fluid. I did all this just to find out that it was the hydraulic system, the clutch was fine. I believe my problem is that I ordered a 1977 slave cylinder however I for some reason still have the 'old' clutch fork with the hole for the adjustable rod. I thought no problem Ill just Swap the adjustable rod from the one on the car with the new one. I did this and tried to properly adjust the slave cylinder but was a bit confused by the fsm. should I push the slave cylinder rod all the way in and pull the fork to the back of the car then adjust the nut to 1.5 turns out from touching the fork? Will this setup not work and I should order a new '72 slave? The car is current on stands and when I start the car in first with the clutch in the wheel still spin.
  3. Round top carb dampening Rod

    Looking at the design, it should control the movement speed of the piston determined by the diameter of the cylinder on the dampening rod. Take the cylinder off the dampening rod and your piston will drop with almost no resistance as if you don't have one in. so one cylinder having a larger diameter than another will cause the position to drop slower. Correct me if I'm wrong. Trying to get a family member to bring me my just SU DVD so I can't watch it on repeat while in rehab. Has anyone seen this where they have one dampening rod cylinder bigger than the other?
  4. Round top carb dampening Rod

    Miles, I have dine this and the rate if the same this is what I meant in my original post when I said I plugged the air ports and the pistons fell at the same rate. Unfortunately I was unable to work on my car when I got home, I came down with guillain barre syndrome and have been in the hospital for the last 5 days, moving to rehab today fr about 10-14 days and taking this term off school for physical therapy. So the good news about all this is that I will be able to devote a lot of time to my 240 in the next few months. Again the pistons drop at the same rate when I do this test but once I put them on the car, fill them with fluid, and replace my dampening rods they no longer fall at the same rate, the piston with the smaller dampening rod cylinder falls much quicker than the larger on, I have swapped the rods and this stays consistent. I have an efi setup sitting on the side but missing a couple things for it like the larger fuel lines and the refi relay, I would rather get the car running with my carbs before I think of swapping. Should I take the dampening rod cylinder and have it machined down to the same size as the smaller one?
  5. Round top carb dampening Rod

    I know a few machine shops that will measure it for me. Should I had them machine the larger one down to the size of the smaller cylinder?
  6. Round top carb dampening Rod

    My car is in Santa Cruz, California, I only get to see her for a couple weeks every year and not going to bring it up until I'm confident in its ability to get me around
  7. Hey everyone, The car is a 1972 240z with an L28 running 4 screw round top carbs. So I have been trying to get my car to run right for awhile recently found and fixed vacuum leaks including replacing the master cylinder and brake booster. I replaced the starter with one from a 1980 280zx, also replace the ignition coil with a 3ohm flamethrower and changed to a pertronic electronic ignition. I removed all egr and plugged the ports on the balance tube. My main question has to do with the damper rod for the carbs. I have watched the "Just SUs" DVD and plan to watch it again once I get home. The piston will not drop at the same rate, I have taken them apart and plugged the air ports the pistons will drop at the same rate but once I assemble them and Fill them with ATF one drops slower than the other. The reason this is is because the cylinder on the damper rods are different size, I don't have a micrometer to measure the difference but can visually tell and feel they are different sizes. I seem to recall it being mentioned in the DVD that he has seen two different sizes but shouldn't the car have the same size dampers to let the pistons fall in unison?
×