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240zdex

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Everything posted by 240zdex

  1. I have a spoiler I got from a parts car and would love to see more cars with them if someone wants to make a mold of it?
  2. Not to thread jack here but what are you guys using for a clutch master? im swapping in a 2jzge and cd001 into a 82 na auto car I can’t find any information about it so I’m assuming stock? just wanted to make sure while I’m on the while I’m at it phase lol. thanks in advance looking forward to your guys reply’s.
  3. Hey guys I’m new to the s130 chassis and I’m a bit of a story teller so I’ll try to keep my post short. i had gotten this car on a barter and I was only interested in it for the engine and rear diff for my 240z project(now sold) the car is an 81 zxt and is in poor shape and was destined to be parted out but the guy who had givin me the car failed to mention he had every single document from new till 2016. once I had loaded the car on my trailer he had handed my wife a binder and said this gos with the car and to have me take a look at it before parting it out. after reviewing the papers and having my 7 year old ask me if I had gotten it for him I decided to let him keep it. fast forward 3 months and all I’ve done was install a drivers door window and door handle because they were missing when I got it.this week we had bought some s13 bc coilovers,headlight covers,manual boost controller and boost gauge. my plan with this car is to drive it this summer and attack one goal at a time while keeping its down time minimal. it will need to have both floor pans replaced at some point and it has a bit of rust on the body and a bunch of dents. ideally I want to have the rust replaced first but have been down that rabbit hole before on my 240z’s and never got to drive them because I kept saying might as well just do it all at one time and getting in over my head. so I think I’m going to start with the coilovers and wheels and tires first. then the engine stuff a few weeks later then rust and paint In the winter.
  4. So just a bad update here. the last few months have been a up and down ride and with everything going on in my live I’ve decided it was best to sell my 240z and focus on being a new home owner and saving money for the right project. ive kept all of the Powertrain parts and will do a 2jz swap to an s30 just not at this time. i wanted to say thank you to all of you guys for the advice and letting type up Long rants and you guys not banning my profile.
  5. Any advice to a guy trying to do the same?
  6. Bought my 81zxt in September as a Parts car for my 240z. as luck would happen to have it I found the original owners family members and they said they had a briefcase full of documents on the car and said I could keep them. now my son is the proud owner of it (as long as he keeps his grades up and stays out of trouble) hes 7 and can’t wait till he can drive for the time being I think I’m going to put my 240z project on hold till I get his just right.
  7. I’m in need of a few door parts for my driver door on my zx. parts needed are. 1: driver door outer door handle linkage and lock linkage. 2:driver window mounting hardware. 3:weather striping window molding or trim piece not sure what it’s called but can explan what I’m looking for. it gos on the outer and inner sides of the window and seal the window so water doesn’t go inside of the door. Sorry it won’t let me upload a video of the walk through I did earlier so I’ll post a few pics tomorrow of what I need. i would like a price shipped to 55408 with PayPal fees included and would prefer to have it come from one guy to save on shipping.
  8. I’m looking for everthing to mount the the driver door window to the regulator and the outer door handle linkage shipped to 55408 PayPal ready
  9. 3 shops said it’s almost $7000 for repairs and I haven’t been able to get in contact with there insurance adjuster. but I did fall in love with the s130 Parts car I picked up after I found a box of you documentation from the factory and decided to give it to my son.
  10. Truck was parked in front of my house. they left a note nobody was hurt that I know of on the bus.
  11. Update. bought a crap load of parts about a week away from finishing up my work season got a family trip planned my sons doing really well in school. what could go wrong??!! in one week my truck gets hit by a bus and my mechanics wife tells me to pick up my car and Parts because there no longer together...!!!! some one dose not want this car built. i have a 6 hour drive to pick everything up and then I need to find a place to put everything and this time I think I’m going to do it my self
  12. What is your asking price shipped to 55408 I’m PayPal ready if you still have it.
  13. Small update I ordered the Mavericks adaptor and flywheel and it’s currently on back order so that blows but on the nice side I I have the correct clutch fork and pivot ball and i picked up a z31 for $300 with 91k on it. i haven’t heard it crank or anything because there was no battery but the owners Dad said it was parked because of a bad fuel pump and the son is still locked up for 4 years and just wants to get rid of it. The body body looks clean and even if I don’t keep it I found a guy that will trade me a s130 Parts car and a few L6 Parts that I don’t really need but hey happy day.
  14. They don’t sell to the public but will answer your questions on sizes they can do and the sales guy I had referred me to use jegs for my order. so I called jegs waited on hold for a bit and told the sales guy what they had said so he put me on hold and called us wheel and spoke with another sales guy and confirmed they can be done in my size and provided me with a quote plus shipping to my door.
  15. Ive seen his welds and they look great on his g35 he’s building. good to know about the cosmo set up. the star wheels can be custom ordered up to 10 inch wide and 16 inch wheels with custom back spacing for about $8 more per wheel. the cd001 trans I had gotten was super cheap and I’ve been keeping an eye open on a cd009 and in my parts of the woods everybody wants top dollar to the point where buying one from Nissan seems like the best choice after I get the car driving. i like the idea about fitting the drivetrain in then welding in the floors I’ll see about doing it that way. i had already bought a drivers floor pan knowing how bad it was. both guys (Dave and tommie) said the passenger side is repairable. the chassis on working with now is a 73.
  16. It’s been a while since I’ve last posted to the build thread and nothing major to add except I found a new guy to weld for me and I dropped the car off to him. he seems excited to be doing this resto and I guess that is a good thing. im going to order the Mavericks motor sports conversion kit this weekend. he will be out of state working for nearly a month and that’s a good thing for me as it gives me time to save buy and deliver parts when my business slows down a bit. Our game plan seems solid but would like to share it and see what your guys opions are. step one floor pans: drivers side was gone so it’s been cut out.passanger side can be saved with patch’s. step two frame rails: both have some rot and rather then cut it all out I was thinking about cutting and patching the bad spots and having him rust proof and weld on a second layer of frame rail.(or just buy the bad dog rails) step 3 attach engine to trans and have mounts made once it’s looking right. once mounts are made I’d like to pick the engine and trans up to be freshened up or replace engine entirely with a complete running engine that hasn’t sat in the rain we had all of last month. trans will need a newer style clutch fork and something else I can’t remember because I’m dead ass tired. step 4 new fuel and brake lines fuel pump master cylinder rotors pads and other things in that nature. step 5 some type of suspension set up I found a few weld in coil over kits and also found lowering springs and struts. not sure what I’m looking for yet but I know I want to have a few track days in the future. these are what I’m thinking about running https://www.cosmoracing.com/260Z-280Z-1974-1978-1 step 6 cut wheel arches and replace unless my brinksworth flares will cover the rotted parts and fit the right way with enough clean metal. step 6 wheels I found a set of wheels for $676 shipped the wheel size is 16x10 in a 4x114.3 with a 3.5 inch back space I had the off set written down somewhere but I’m a tad tired to care at this time but it should fit the build nicely. step 7 get the car sound proofed wiring loom sorted fuse box built and engine bay painted. step 8 install engine and trans for the last time have shifter modified wire engine up and hope to at least get the microsquirt to say yep there’s an engine. at that point the car will leave him and that’s where I start my job. sorry for the long post but it’s late I can’t sleep my belly hurts and I’m pretty sure my wife hates my guts. anyway do you guys think we’re on the right track? As always feel free to throw out your comments concerns opions and burns.
  17. So I’m a bit lost going foreword I may have bit off more then I can chew without having Dave doing most of the work.(sure do wish I can find another guy for $30 an hour) i have picked up my z and brought it to my business parking lot (short term thing till I can find a suitable place to work and store the car that’s not to far from where I live) i may have a place to do all the work but I won’t know till Friday but me being a happy go lucky guy I’m looking at welding as cautiously as I can. that brings me to this delima i rent a bunch of tools for my business and my local rental place will rent me there mig welder for $15 a day but I’d have to wait till September for that price otherwise it’s $50 or buy it outright for $800(don’t know all the specs but it will work with a household plug and has a gas option but they only rent it with flux core) Option 2 its been said and my quote button is not working for some reason. having a Mobile welder do the floor and frame rails for $90 hour plus Parts and gas depending on where I get a place to work on the car) I work 70-90 hours a week in the spring,summer and fall seasons and I’m pretty sure I’ll fu€k up the welds but I would like to learn but is this the worst thing to learn on? Also started messing around with the engine for an hour or so waiting on Parts to come in for my dump truck I did not get far because I couldn’t find my deep 14mm socket. after looking at the engine today I really want to clean it all up and redo all the gaskets and main seals while there easier to get to. and yes I know it being outside on a pallet is not ideal but it’s all I got for now
  18. So I have a huge update and not a good one. so the guy I had building my z was diagnosed with cancer and is doing chemotherapy and requested I pick my car up sooner then later. i had paid him sum money but not a ton and hope him a full recovery but this puts me in a bad spot going foreword as none of the rust things have gotten done(top of my priorities) im debating on getting a sub $500 mig welder and attempting replacing the drivers floorpan both frame rails and some other spots here and there. i also need to make my engine mounts and have a trans mount made up. I was going to use the jag xjs v12 engine mounts (already bought) may change because of my lack of any welding or fabbing skills. BUILDING A CAR SUCKS AT THIS STAGE SUCKSSSSSSS!!!! sorry I had to vent but will keep everybody posted not that anybody is paying attention or wanting it just helps me see how far it’s come or in my case how little it’s come.
  19. I live in Minnesota and there are a bunch of shops doing rust repair stuff but not for cheap unless you know them personally or it’s there side gig. i can ask around or ask the guy doing my z but he’s older and asked to look at my car ahead of time to make sure he wanted to do the job. what part of Minnesota is he located in I’m in the Minneapolis and st.paul area.
  20. The sc300 is in bad shape inside and out front bumper is missing a nice chunk the 1/4s are rusted and pretty much smashed on the passenger side and as I was driving it yesterday I lost all brake pressure it's a good parts car nothing more at this time. i may just keep having the z chassis worked on while I keep sourcing the parts trans standalone intercooler fuel injectors rails turbo parts and like you said just drop it in one shot and be done. ive Looked into using the sc300 double wishbone suspension and rear end and it seems to be a huge hassle with my intended budget. i still have another early 260 that needs a complete restore sitting at the sellers farm(he was diagnosed with cancer and can't move all his things to pull it out yet) i may just keep the v8 build going and start the 2j in the 260 next winter if I can't get a buyer for my sbf parts.
  21. You sir are correct only my wife can tell me what I want even if I don't want it lol. in all honesty I guess I was looking for reassurance that the 2j was the better swap indefinitely. i highly doubt anybody here will say one swap is better then another swap specially here on hybridz so I thank you aswell for your input.
  22. That's great to know. would you buy the engine and trans mount togeather or have the trans mount fabbed up because I don't intend to keep it for more then 2 years?
  23. Well I thank you guys for putting up with my unorganized sentences and bantering. i guess to answer I already have and it's time to start tearing apart the sc300. i know you have modified the cx racing mounts seattlejester to be more centered. I've also heard a lot of people say they wouldn't trust the stock mounts that bolt to the engine what are your thoughts on it minus the standard boots the kit comes with? as for the trans mount I'm not overly worried because I plan to upgrade in time.If you had to choose a trans which way would you lean towards cd0009 ar5 BMW or anything else that would be cost affective and pretty easily sourced. sorry for all the long post but I guess after the holidays I'll start getting things togeather and hopefully have a build thread.
  24. This thread was a should I stop my sbf build for a 2j build and now it's a slow and steady build for the future. engine will remain stock for a while till I can to afford to properly boost the engine with decent parts.(or a second engine while enjoying the car to keep the down time to a minimum) engine is from a 92 sc300 ran and drove. i chose to get a trans from a 04 g35 for the fact I had a few that were local and sub $150 price range(picked mine up for $100) i still need the adapter and flywheel kit and I think I'm going to use the mavericks kit $900 and if and when the 04 trans dies just pick one up from nissan for $1800 after the car is diving. engine and management im going to try and use a microsquirt as my engine management and some of the stock parts will need to be replaced to get it to work properly.(hopefully lol) i will add my updates when I get to this part in the build. worst case I will do the tt ecu mod and safc. (I still have the stock engine harness and m/t ecu if I can't make the microsquirt on the stock engine) fuse box my chassis has the stock fuse box in the center consol but was thinking about replacing and or adding a separate fuse box for the engine and mircosquirt. not sure what I should do here any input would be great. im going to be using a fuel cell because the stock tank was pretty bad and got a great deal on a 7 gallon cell. im thinking about running the fuel and rear brake lines on the driver side so when the turbo parts are installed the lines don't heat up and cause any issues from the exhaust heat.(I heard somewhere that was an issue not sure where though) Rear diff I have an r180 240z diff. im pretty sold on the tried and true r200 but thinking about other options for the long run and parts availability. iv thought about the r180 sti with adapter hubs,Ford 8.8,r230 but I think it will be hard to beat the price of an r200 swap. My main concern I have is making the drive shaft.I want to make sure I have the long term diff installed and ready to rock before I make the driveshaft and that's why the r180 subi diff is sounding good because I could get away with making the drive shaft now with the stock r180 and upgrading later down the road. Suspension I'm all kinds of lost here I don't know what I want other then affordable lowered responsiveness and comfortable. im not sure if I can get away with a set of springs new struts and new bushings and get the ride height right. (not looking for a full time track car just a weekend and once in a great while take it to the track) sorry if this seems like I'm asking for somebody to hold my hand through this build because I truly em not. i feel like I bit off more then I should at first but I'm slowely kicking my @$$ in the right direction which seems to lead me too "don't over complicate things". theres a load more info I can put in right now but the real issues I'm having trouble with are of the funds type lol. thanks for reading the update and I look forward to keeping you guys updated and getting constructive criticism.
  25. Any update on your project I'm extremely interested in all of your output as we're doing just about the same build. i bought a 86 gt with a WC 5speed for crack head prices and knew it had bad rings and found a 97 explorer 5.0 for $50 and sbf rpm carb intake I was going to source a set of gt40 heads. I forgot what year distributor I bought but it's the steel gear one and plan on swapping cams before I put the engine in so it will match. last few things I need are a carb, linkages,coil,plugs,wires,air filter,and gauges or the volt converter from ttt to use the stock gauges. if you manage to get the fuel injection to work relatively cheap and easy please let me know because I was going to use the 86 wiring and ecu but after a few min search found the 86 to be the worst year of the 5.0 efi
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