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HybridZ

CobaltFire

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Everything posted by CobaltFire

  1. Are they any GOOD though? I'm not interested in going low for looks; I just want good suspension.
  2. I've been looking at various options for my Z, and I'm really curious as to what AZC uses for struts. I like that they are legitimate fully adjustable for height/preload but without knowing what's in them I'm really hesitant to purchase. If T3 made a threaded strut type and were up front about what it was I'b be inclined to go with it. The Megan coilover conversion looks interesting, but I can't stand the cars I've ridden in with them. I wish someone would adapt some KW's.
  3. This works, but note that the circuit that's under discussion as the possible problem likely isn't fused (most key buzzers aren't). You'd never find the problem that way if this IS the problem.
  4. There are a couple of key questions you need to ask yourself: Are you comfortable tuning your car, or paying someone to do so? If yes, MegaSquirt (MS) is an option. If no, you MAY be able to MS if you stay stock and someone has a solid map. Are Carbs legal for your car where you live? If yes, this could be an option. If no, well... no. Is there some other reason you want the stock ECU? That's up to you, but they are outdated, getting old, and finicky compared to MS. They ARE more plug and play (questionable in your case without a harness). Sit down and think through your real goals and options, and do it right the first time.
  5. A cheap LS (5.3l's are cheap and bulletproof at that power level) tuned for torque with tall gears. 250HP can be a ton of torque and make for a relaxed driver pretty easily. EDIT: Is the 250HP rated or dyno'd? Be tough to do an LS if that's rated power; if it's dyno'd you could tune it for torque and put a restrictor plate on it. The 1999 4.8l is 255HP factory though (according to Wikipedia). EDIT Again: I'm an idiot, this is in the L6 forum so that's probably what you are looking for. I'll leave my stupidity for posterity, but feel free to ignore me.
  6. Sounds like a plan! Looking forward to hearing if it fixes the issue; might save someone else some heartache later.
  7. Ok, if you have an issue when you insert but don't turn the key your ignition switch is likely bad. It's not supposed to do ANYTHING with just a key in it according to everything I can find. If it's internally crosswiring you will get some odd results, which you have. Also, those other questions are important. Year, model, where the sense wire is going, and where the voltmeter is bridged at.
  8. What I'm seeing after a quick look at the schematic for a Z (I'm new to these but work on electronics for a living) is a couple things. First, the indication that turning on the lights works but your voltage goes to 0. That indicates that wherever your voltmeter is wired to is seeing ground. I need to know where that tap is. Second issue is that voltage spike while running. I'm betting that wherever the sense wire goes is shorted to ground. That would cause it to push the alternator high. A few possibilities from looking at the short issue for a few minutes: bad light switch, bad tail lamp (if removing the bulb fixes the issue that's it), bad dimmer. I'm going to bet it's two seperate problems.
  9. So I'm going to back up the guys on the other forum. You need diodes there, and I'd go with the numbers recommended (1N4001 has been mentioned in other forums as a viable replacement for that type, which is called an Epoxy Rectifier Diode). I'm not perfect, but I do work on electronics for a living (military aircraft) and have worked on plenty of stuff this old. Also, I'd go ahead and replace all the caps while you are in there. Those are electrolytic caps, and they are usually the first thing to go out on something that age. I'm going to bet that a voltage transient that's usually handled fine by those caps got through and smoked the diodes (which were also degraded). Actually, I'd just rebuild the whole thing from the ground up if you actually want to use it. This is a dead serious recommendation. You'll get a long life out of it that way. If you were really interested I can talk to you about doing a schematic and etching some replacement boards for people who have these radios. Isn't that hard OR expensive, and it's DIY stuff.
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