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About primaz

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    Half Moon Bay, CA

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  1. Eji does great engines. I am getting my wife's .28 stage II complete and then I can drop my 3.0 liter into my 240z. What kind of ignition is that on your car?
  2. primaz

    Which CV kits are best for an R200 240Z?

    I think you are right the Z Car Garage kit looks like what I will likely buy. The Primadonna Z body is very stable at high speeds compared to any other Z I have driven. Most Z cars float and even if you have the power it is not very safe at high speeds but this body is totally a different experience as it is so smooth and stable at high speeds. The old motor would only propel it to a top end of 165 mph but at that speed you could drive with one hand with barely any force, the car tracked and did not float at all. I was able to do a two lane turn just about as hard as you could yank the wheel and the car would track easily. I raced and beat a lot of much faster cars because of how well it handled those higher speeds. The only problem was my engine was maxed out so I could not go any faster but when a Ferrari tried to keep up they gave up, little did they know they had me on power but when I am done the Primadonna will finally have the needed power to then race other supercars on the street. I raced the car a lot on the street and the body is well built and rock solid. After I bought it from Jack I have added a 9 point cage and soon it will have way more performance than it ever had. I cannot wait to finally have that kind of power...
  3. primaz

    Ford Super 8.8 irs swap thread. Rear brakes too

    That is GREAT! My car is a pretty extreme wide body, right now it has old BBS racing three piece 15 x13 and 15 x11 rims with 345's and 285's with half inch spacers so there is even more room to put a wider tire but nobody makes one. Now that 15" rims are old school my tire choices are almost nil so I am going to buy new three piece CCW's either 17 or 18" or look into what options I can do on re-barreling the BBS as those rims are cool but I am not sure if that process will allow me to go up to a 17" or ? I was going to go with 1000 HP but talking to Dave at RIPS Racing I think for long term reliability I will go with their RB34 that will put down 750-850 HP as those versions are doing well as daily drivers in client cars in the UK; unless Dave says that I can go more HP and still be a daily driver? Again keep up the work as I really would like your kit as I have not seen anything that anyone has the confidence can hold up to these big HP numbers. I hope you have a kit option that is bolt in for people like me that do not want to deal with welding anything, etc. and ideally have everything look well finished. I plan on getting my Primadonna Z car back on the car show circuit for the first year after it is done so I really want all of the parts to look show quality and nice besides being super reliable for racing on the streets. So your kit will have everything to make the 8.8 bolt in and can I also use the Apex or TTT lower control arms with it? I look at your thread often and am eager to see you complete this kit!!!! Great job!!!
  4. primaz

    Which CV kits are best for an R200 240Z?

    No, I am not Jack but I bought Jack's own car the Black Primadonna Z car and am currently updating it with a lighter body as well as bringing it back to show quality. That car was in numerous publications such as Z Car Enthusiast and others. I have never posted any website on the car but I have seen a number of people whom I have no clue whom they are, that have created website stories of the car, etc. which is a little weird but I guess cool? Jack won Oakland Roadster car show with the black Primadonna and after I bought it I put more money into it and it used to be on the car show circuit for a few years winning most shows. I have driven it pretty hard over the years so too many chips on the lacquer paint job so now after I finish our other two 240 Z cars will go a bit extreme on the Primadonna Z putting a ton of HP with a RIPS Racing RB Turbo 3.4 to be able to go over 200 MPH as well as be back to an ISCA car show quality car again. NewZed, that link you shared is the white Primadonna with the non boxed rear flares that Mike sold to Hoover Chan whom sold it to a guy in Florida and I guess sold it again. It looks in rather sad shape in those photos as the rear wing is missing a section that makes it complete. That car was never really a finished car as Mike designed that version with the extended windshield that goes out to the edge of the cowl and never had a finished interior to make it look clean since when you extend the windshield about 1 foot out you then have a bunch of unfinished sections that are now in the interior of the car. The black Primadonna was Jacks own car which was built a lot better in my opinion and uses the box rear flares so there is no bondo or filler to hold any of the panels on the body as every section bolts in and looks like it could have came that way from a factory. **************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************** Getting back to my original post, I was trying to clarify what I was looking for. While it seems using the term "best" gets everyone emotional? Sorry for using "best" All I want is a completely well engineered kit to convert the car from half shafts to CV's that will bolt in. I commend you folks that are welders but I just want to know which one to purchase that is already engineered to bolt in. I am converting at least two 240Z in the very near term so I just want to avoid issues and do not want to buy something I regret. I greatly appreciate the responses that everyone has shared as each one is very informative. For me I do want to find what will just bolt in that will work well and be reliable. Both cars are just about complete so I really want to get both of them back on the street soon which is another reason for focusing on a bolt in upgrade to covert to CV's.
  5. primaz

    Ford Super 8.8 irs swap thread. Rear brakes too

    Invincibleextremes, I am very interested in your pursuit to use the Ford Super 8.8 differential. I am not ready now but do plan on finally upgrading my extreme Primadonna Z that will put down 750-850 HP with probably 335's in the rear and 285's in the front. Do you believe that the Ford Super 8.8 will handle that type of HP? I want to keep my car independent rear suspension as the goal of this build is a reliable street driven Z car that can go over 200 MPH and fully use the HP I will finally have without anything breaking. If the 8.8 will handle it I think it would be great if you offered a really complete kit so that one can buy it but not have to modify anything just buy your kit and bolt it in. I know there are many whom are ok with doing a lot of the work themselves but I would be interested in a more bolt on kit to use the 8.8 and still be able to use the Apex Engineering or TTT lower control arms and other parts they offer to improve the performance of the 240Z factory design.
  6. primaz

    Which CV kits are best for an R200 240Z?

    Wow, you guys go deep, very deep I will clarify, I just want the "best" meaning kit that requires as close to zero modifications to install and be very reliable. To me a well engineered kit should just bolt in and work well? Is that too much to ask? For my two street 240Z's they both have R200's, coil over suspension, one is about 200 HP the other is about 250-300 HP and both will be just daily driven street cars. If you have to modify, cut, weld, machine, etc. to convert it to CV's to me then it really is not a bolt on kit. Sorry to get a bit off topic but many of the great responses on this thread got me thinking about my 3rd Z car and what are the options for both differential and CV's for a more extreme street Z, my Primadonna Z car? Separate from the CV's for the two street 240z's I am considering upgrading the higher HP 240Z R200 rear end internals to the M Factory R200 Helical LSD; based on what some of you have implied I wonder if going with the Z Car Garage CV kit, upgrading the diff mounts using the Techno Toy parts and with the M Factory R200 LSD what kind of HP could that handle? When I get these two cars done I will finally be able to focus on my street storming 240Z, the famous Primadonna Z that I plan on putting in a RIPS Racing RB34 Skyline that will put down 750-850 HP. On that car I am not sure what to do yet for the rear end as I did contact Techno Toys and they said their Z32 TT will work up to 700 HP and they did not think anything but a straight axle would handle more? I think what they have converts the 240Z to use a Q45 or Q50 rear end with those rear end factory CV's, unless the Z32 TT is something different? For that car I would like to know if there is any kits that have a strong enough rear end that keeps the car independent suspension that will not likely break? Maybe the Techno Toys or the Arizona Z kits that convert it to the Q45 or Q50 might hold up since that car will be more a street supercar not a quarter mile car? I also have been following the threads on the Ford 8.8 rear end but it seems like there really is no kit available but people are trying to fabricate their own way to use that in place of the R200? I Right now I just want to finish these more daily driver Z's before I get into my more extreme build.
  7. primaz

    Which CV kits are best for an R200 240Z?

    Jim, Do you feel now that DSS had changed their R200 Datsun CV solution and if so would yo recommend them now? Is there a link to their Datsun R200 product or do you just call them? Thus far the one that RTurbo listed from ZCarGarage seems like the best but it is a little on the steeper side at $1500. I have not made up my mind yet...
  8. I am not that concerned about price but more on a very strong lug nut yet I still want the bling of a cool looking lug nut, say a blue type finish, or other colors, etc. compared to the standard chrome/black. I would like to have a locking lug nut as well. Looking online, I've read about staying away from cheap quality lug nuts, read that aluminum lug nuts are a scam, etc. I could not find any real true rating or reviews of lug nuts either. I guess I want locking lug nuts to provide some slight protection, and I want something strong as they will be used for a few of my performance Z's and other cars yet I want that more modern tuner type look, manly being attracted to the more cool colors and designs out there. What are the best quality lug nuts that provide at least one locking lug nut for each wheel that look cool but do not compromise strength; I do not care about weight since I really think that does not matter and I care more about them being strong?
  9. primaz

    Which CV kits are best for an R200 240Z?

    Thanks, that kit looks really promising. Do you know anyone whom has used it? They do have some great case histories posted. It is a good chuck of change but cheaper than that one listed in one of the threads discussing the DSS issues one person had for $3400. I am about a month or two from doing the upgrade so this is great information as I do not want to make a mistake as I might end up doubling the error on two cars? "rturbo 930" both of these Z's already have R200's, what do you think of the T3: Drop Mount / Dogbone and their R200sn mustache bar? Is that more for looks or what? I am curious as the only issue I have encountered on these two street 240Z's is the typical clunk of the half shafts.
  10. I am thinking of upgrading an R200 from stock half shafts to CV's and have read a couple of long threads about issues of slippage from Fotofab CV's that seem to indicate that is a common issue, and have read the thread on DSS which sounds like in 2017 to early this year they had issues? and while that person sounded like he finally got a set that would fit, I am confused as to which CV kit really is a direct bolt in that has not slippage and will work well? For this application I would be doing it on 1 or possible 2 of my more street machine Z cars, one with a 3 liter Datsun Spirit engine and the other with a 2.8 Datsun Spirit engine. I have a much more extreme race/street Z that will likely need something more bullet proof, maybe the T3 kit which I heard now is available for newer more common Infinity Q50? Not sure if that will hold up to around 800 HP ?
  11. The Z car's have one of the best suspensions for handling out there and with improvements like a quality adjustable coil over setup they are great to race. Just with the common suspension upgrades for the McPherson strut Nissan setup, which is what Frank Leary's Giant killer Z car basically used that dominated racing and was national champion 8 years straight. It is a great design and with minor upgrades it will out handle most everything out there. You can get many upgraded parts to give you more unlimited suspension adjustment from Techno Toys, Arizona Z car, and if you really want to get fancy check out Apex engineering options, www.apexengineered.com/store/c3/240z.html
  12. I have two of the Datsun competition trans in our two mild street cars and love them. One tip I recommend is to get the parts cytogenetically treated to increase the strength.
  13. primaz

    78 RB26 260Z

    Great Build! I thought that 260's were only in 1974? I thought that the year yours is a 1978 isn't that a 280 not a 260Z?
  14. for a street car these few pics should give you an idea of what I have on my two street cars and I feel that this is ideal for chases stiffness without the wasted space and issues bars for a street car. I can jack the car up with a jack stand and have three wheels off the ground; it give me the stiffness of my crazy Primadonna Z car with a 9 point cage so for street use I think this is ideal. If you worry about rolling the car you can add a basic hoop but no need to do the rest of the roll bar work for street as that just becomes a pain for anyone else you give a ride to, as they will not like the bars interfering with easy entry in the car, etc. Believe me very few women want to ride in a car that is too caged. This boxing of the frame rails goes from the front all the way to the rear sub frame and is boxed inside as well. It follows the factory fake rails and give is true strength of a framed car or a Z with a cage without the bars in the way for a street car. Unless you really want to compete for a track I think this is way better.