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tube80z

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Everything posted by tube80z

  1. @AydinZ71 I'm not sure that bending the strut will work for Konis as they are generally tight. I've heard rumors but never seen them in person about a certain BMW team that had a jig that mounted in a hydraulic press to bend in some extra camber. Getting the tube out of the is going to be some work but I think that might be the best way to go. Another option would be to build a custom strut and use Nascar hubs 5x5s I think are called. That will help with pad knockback. Another option if you haven't used them is 280Z struts. They are thicker and should flex less. Or you can show up with some DTM inspiration Cary
  2. It's funny how certain rules are set in stone and others are ignored. You could make a custom camber plate that is mounted to the top of the strut using the tower edges. There would be no more center hole in this design as it would all be covered. If they challenge it you could argue that you wanted to be able to swap springs more quickly out the top. Take a look at rally car service videos and many of those cars come out the top. My personal choice for camber plates would be a square/rectangle design where you can shim for camber or caster/strut angle (rear). Ford has a really cool design I meant to steal but couldn't find it again on their GT4 Mustang. Hope that helps, or inspires some rule bending.
  3. You can use autotranslate to get a version that will give you the gist of what's being discussed.
  4. To be fair to GC the plates aren't intended to be used with that much track increase. You may need to back that off to stay legal in EP rules. I don't have a GCR so I'm not sure what you can or can't do with the shock tower and camber plates. When I widened the front track in my car, I moved the camber plate to almost under the fender mount. I've also used a porta power to add some positive crash damage but that needs to be done before you tie into the roll cage. Cary
  5. I have a long history with sidedrafts and used to have tons of jets, emulsion tubes, etc. The advantage you'd see on just a 45 mm throttlebody is that you don't have the auxiliary venturi and the chokes. So you'll see more airflow with EFI than with the carbs. Do you need a larger throttlebody is the question? Do you currently see a vacuum in the manifold? If your engine makes over 300 HP then I'd be inclined to look at a 50s or 55s. I'd call Rebello and ask him for a recommendation as he'd know best. Cary
  6. Look up used NASCAR parts on eBay for some stuff (window nets, fire suppression, etc.). I'd check local club newsletters for used parts and any of the facebook groups for used racer stuff. But you probably already know all that. And you can ask around at some of the races/track days to see if you can find anything. Cary
  7. If you want to do a modern flush mount look this is probably what you need to do. I'm half-assing it with a different method for my car, at least at first. And that's gluing the windshield and then using RTV to fill the gap and smoothing it. I saw this back in the 80s and 90s on a few of the IMSA cars. I asked a pit member how they did this and that's what he told me. I'm also thinking about a 3D-printed rain gutter bridge to make air flow down the side of the car better. Cary
  8. Can you give a summary of what this method is? I went to that link, which required a signup and only found a group with a ton of emails.
  9. tube80z

    Pictures

    Do you have an example picture you're trying to upload? You can send to me at tube80z@gmail.com
  10. A friend built an endurance car (Chumpcar/Lucky Dog) and was going to use a new Nissan gasket. I talked him into gluing the windshield and was amazed at the results. The difference between this and a normal gasket was the same having a strut bar or not. This car has been used hard, ridden some large curbs, and never cracked a windshield. I'm not saying it can't happen on the street but I'll be gluing in my street car's windshield when we get to that point. Cary
  11. Hard to say. The only L-series engine I weighed was a friend's race car long block and nothing but a Peterson dry sump, Alloy crank pulley, and dry sump drive. That was 325. So I don't know if that is going to be 50 lbs, but it's probably very close.
  12. The problem is HybridZ has no idea how to deal with a ".jfif" file extension so it only shows as a download. change it to ".jpg" or a ".png" and it should work fine. Hope that helps, Cary
  13. Hey Mike, great to hear from you. I'd also take a look at https://www.race-technology.com/gb/gopro software for pulling data on most newer gopro cameras. And if you want to be able to mix and match data Track Attack is nice software to use. It also can integrate most action cameras into a feed with overlaid data. Cary
  14. So sorry to hear the news Stony. Glad you're alright and we'll all morn the beast you created. Cary
  15. Hey Aydin, I would do one small mod that will save you down the road. Use a small section of flexible brake lines that goes from the masters to a block on the firewall that terminates the hard lines and has a high spot for a bleeder (one with a check valve). When I got this advice I thought it was stupid until I needed to fix a master that was leaky. I had it removed, new one installed, and blead in about 5 minutes. When a friend had a similar issue the hard line kept leaking and this similar process was a half hour or more. Cary
  16. The LV1 only came in vans as far as I know. The LV3 is more widely available but has displacement on demand (DOD) that needs to be removed. You can pull the balance shaft out and they work fine from what I've read. For some reason these are super pricey, which seems odd as there should be a bunch on the used market. They came in a number of trucks and small SUVs. The LV1 and LV3 are 100 pounds lighter than the equivalent V8. Scoggin Dicky has some dyno videos where they used a pulled LV3 with DOD delete and a new cam and it made 368 HP and had over 300 ft-lbs of torque at 2 or 2.5K.
  17. Almost all the new throttlebodies have them as a cam and you can either borrow one or make something similar. If you wanted to do it so that the linkage looked stock you probably could hide this under the dash or put the same on the firewall for the cable from the pedal would wrap onto. I think you could make different options to fine tune the response to where it works best for you. I stole the idea from John DeArman (sp?) who used to have a Z car technical magazine. And was a prolific poster on the old. alt.hotrod Usenet news channel. Cary
  18. One thing you can try to make the ITBs more drivable is to create a progressive throttle cam so the throttle moves a lot less on the initial pedal movement. I had a car with light-switch SUs and this helped add some drivability to the car. Cary
  19. Hi Randall, I added your unbanned your old account (Randall/K12) and you should be good to go. I probably screwed up and banned you by mistake. We've had a lot of problems with spammers and scanners lately so all the forum admin tasks are manually done edited rather than allowing them to be automated we switched to manual. This helps keep accounts from spamming after they site dormant for a while. That shouldn't have bothered you with an existing account so I'm not sure what I did make this happen. I'm sorry for any inconvenience this caused. If you have any problems getting back into the account please let me know. Thanks, Cary
  20. Also check out the MaxxECU range. Andy Whittle has many nice things to say about them. They have a lot of inputs/outputs that can be configured any way you want. Andy is the MLVHD facebook admin and has been dealing with club racer tunes and hardware for years. I like that he's always looking for deals and using OEM parts for sensors rather than the $$$ branded versions. Cary
  21. Nice work Aydin! Here's my trick when it comes to back purging stainless exhaust tubing. I use a pig. Maybe that's not the right term but it's a device that you can run down the tubing connected to a cable/hose so that you only purge a few inches (8-10) near your weld. You're probably thinking this is some high dollar piece of equipment. It's not, it's a water balloon (more than 1) connected to the end of an air hose I put through the exhaust. I use a valve to inflate/deflate on the other end. When you need to weld the next bit of tubing you pull out enough hose, keeping track of how much you need to clear the weld area. Sometimes you need to use foil to protect the "pig" from sparks or sharp edges. Maybe this will work for you maybe, maybe not. I'm just a huge cheap ass who hates wasting expensive gas. The last time I filled my argon was 2016 and I complained about the price then. I just checked how much it costs now and almost broke my office chair from falling over.
  22. Greetings Everyone, Due to the increase in spammers HybridZ, registration has changed from being automatic to manual. That means one of the Admins will need to approve any new registrants. If you ask or tell someone about HybridZ (please do) let them know registration isn't automatic anymore. We'll do our best to stay on top of any additions and hopefully you all will see a lot less spam. Thanks, The HybridZ moderation team
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