Jump to content


Super Moderators
  • Content count

  • Donations

    25.00 USD 
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

  • Feedback


tube80z last won the day on March 8 2014

tube80z had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

17 Good

About tube80z

  • Rank
    Super Moderator
  • Birthday 11/04/1966

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Rickreall, Oregon

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. tube80z

    V10 240Z build on YouTube

    This won't be no project Blinky, that much is for sure.
  2. That's a really good thread to read through even if you don't decide to go into that depth of detail. It will help make you a much better purchaser of suspension and help with what to ask for. Inverted monotubes are nothing special really. They are just an upside down shock and what looks like the large rod in the top of the strut is really the insert body. Bilstein or a good example of this. They are often used/hacked to create one off setups. There are a number of good threads around using them as a base. Hope that helps, Cary
  3. Since this is a racing car you should really not be thinking about some off the shelf solution. I would either work with someone who can help you pick a setup for your car based on sprung/unsprung weights and the available grip you expect to have or go through the exercise of calculating that yourself. I would look very hard at inverted monotube designs as they have a much larger shaft to bushing ratio that helps with not only how long things will last but the amount of compliance that you'll see in cornering. You may want to check the rules you race under to see if there are any issues you might run into on that front. Don't get in a rush and end up buying the same thing twice. A little work/research up front will help you save dollars in the long run. Cary
  4. tube80z

    Tim's 302Z

    One thing I might suggest. If you look at a new car and compare the chassis to the Z you'll find a connection from the rocker to the frame well in the front wheel well. This is the same area that saw a lot of work in the B&W pictures you linked to previously. And on our race cars we often put tubing into the rockers to make the floor stronger. At the front wheel end this was connected to the TC box. Very similar to some of the photos you have shared. Props to all the work to save this one. At some point these cars will be rare enough this will be commonplace. I'm glad I live where they don't salt roads. Hope this helps, Cary
  5. tube80z

    aviation fuel mix with gasoline?

    Did you notice this is a ten year old thread?
  6. That could easily be solved with using an oversize bung and adjuster added so you can change length on the car. I never bothered with my set as they were made in a jig matched to the arms that came off the car.
  7. Rather than weld the mustache bar to the drop links you can make a new setup that's one piece and bolts in. Here's some pics of what I'd do for the inner frame. While this does use a mustache bar I'd replace that with tubing that connected to the uprights out to the mustache bar outer mounts. Then some simple triangulation would make it very stiff. Rather than use the H style control arm I'd move to one of the toe-link style arms that have been built by a number of people. In case you're curious these are the rear suspension pics from John Thomas' national championship winning FP car. Hope you find them inspirational, Cary
  8. tube80z

    240Z Pro-Touring Build

    My advice, from screwing up this a number of times, is to get the engine and tranny last. You never know how long it will take to complete these projects and what looked awesome now may be a lot less awesome in years to come. Not to mention potentially cheaper. Cary
  9. A friend who runs a EP car used the CFR 4 bolt variety and there wasn't any problem. They broke one too and then changed to the CFR part. I put one of them in and they looked nice and used good hardware for the studs. Cary
  10. tube80z

    ABS in a 240Z?

    Sounds like you're well down the road with the Teves unit then. I'll be curious to see how that works with slicks. I was going to suggest another option is the Ford FR500 unit that is programmed for slicks. Install is very similar but Ford motorsport has a much cheaper harness option. Cary
  11. tube80z

    Base model 280zx project

    Yeah, photobucket seems to have screwed almost all the car threads and other forums I view. It's understandable but it would have been nice if there was an easy way to migrate but then they couldn't hold people's pictures hostage.
  12. tube80z

    Pikes Peaks 2016

    I know we all like to fly the Z flag but if you do have to start over a newer platform could be a better move. Not only suspension is better but you get a stiffer chassis often and much better aero. Sure you can get there with a Z but you're going to need to do a lot of work rebuilding much of the car. So my vote from a racing results standpoint would be to look at some other platforms. Cary
  13. tube80z

    Pikes Peaks 2016

    Holy fill your pants you're not kidding. Time for a flat floor conversion? Or do you think everything else is too tweaked? Just happy you're not hurt.
  14. tube80z

    Pikes Peaks 2016

    Bummer for sure. Glad all the work you put into safety was worth it but too bad it had to get used. From the video it almost looked like the road had a drop going into the corner and compression braking was enough to lose the rear end. And on a hill there's rarely any room for run off. Cary
  15. tube80z

    Button clutches and recommendations or experience

    Their online material (http://www.powertraintech.com/Files/PDFs/Clutch%20Facts.pdf) states 400 TQ per disk. So you may want to verify. That sounds like it might be an okay way to go. My limited experience is that you raise the revs and do a couple quick dips to get the car rolling and then fully engage (pit driving). I think as long as you use the button and the stock flexplate it will be a little better. Mine is a button and ring gear that's mounted to the clutch cover. This is using a low ground clearance bellhousing and reverse starter. If you're planning to ebay a cheap cover I'd go with a Tilton as they had hardened pads for the disks to touch. I have a quartermaster cover and they are just hard anodized from the look of it. As to how loud they are it's fairly obnoxious when in neutral. It sounds like something is broken or about to fall off. Many of the street dual disk systems employ some kind of strapping between the disks to keep them from rattling back and forth. Cary