bimmota

1982 Nissan Datsun 280xz Turbo Auto ECU S130-L28 Ecu part # A18-602-043 Located in Canada, willing to ship Looking to get $300 CAD so $200 ish USD

1984 Nissan Datsun 300zx Turbo Manual ECU Non Cali Model Z31-VG30 ECU # A18-619-372 Someone wrote Auto on the ECU but the research of the sticker comes up manual The ECU is Located in Canada, willing to ship Looking to get $350 CAD So like $240 ish USD

It's doing well it's put away for the winter right now. Going to start doing a few extra things on it here soon. I have autocrossed it a couple times, it works real well not to many cars are keeping up the the time I'm putting down.

BUMP Price Reduced $4500 CAD ($3400 USD) SOLD

Awesome It's always nice to see a refresh new project underway. One thing I may suggest is, those 4.6 engines are tall depending on the intake manifold and throttle body your using. If you want your hood to close without cutting it. The oil pan will sit quite a bit lower then the Datsun sub frame. I cut the a sub frame out of a mustang to protect my oil pan. If I were to do it again I would cut the pan to be less deep or buy a shallow aftermarket one. Cheers

There would be a couple different ways to get around this issue. 1. SCT tuner get the PATS and what you need deleted and upload the tune to the computer. ( Best to do this with the donar car before the engine is pulled to prove it will work, just in case you dont get around to wiring the OBD2 port right away) 2. Trick the ECU so that the auto trans thinks it's in park or neutral so it will start, enough though you have a manual trans. But that will require hiding the extra wiring. 3. Find a manual ECU to swap in.

Velo Rossa Complete Fiberglass Kit · one-piece front bonnet · bonnet hinge reinforcing ring · bonnet hinge bracket · bonnet hinge pins · cheek (side) panels · bond-on door skins · bond-on header cap (top of windshield) · bond-on rear clip (aka "tub") · trunk lid with pre-bonded inner reinforcing https://www.ztrix.com/rebody-kit/velo-rossa/ This kit is has never been sanded mounted or cut, everything is untouched. The kit was made to special order the panels were made thicker then ordering a normal kit. **No Donor car kit only** Asking $5300 CAD for the complete package So roughly $4000 USD Located in Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada

Those Wheels are The RB-X I believe. I'm not sure if my information will help you out or not. But here are a couple pictures of my flare and wheel set up. I ordered flares from japan and 17" Rota RKR rims. 17x9.5 -20, 17x8.5 -10. Tires are 245/45/17 and 275/40/17. However I run a small spacer up front because I wanted a staggered rims set up

The hot start issue doesn't see to be a problem anymore, maybe it just needed a good burn run. I have over 500km on the swap and everything is working nicely, It spins 275 tires with ease and chirps 2nd and 3rd gear shifts. Finally finished painting and polishing the car, cleaned up the engine bay. I will post some better pictures in the future here. But the swap is complete, time to drive and enjoy before I dig into anything else

I had the car running and driving last summer but was having some major issues with fuel. I wired in the OBD ll port and pulled the codes on my SCT tuner had something like 14 codes. Worked through them one by one to clear them all .By the end I had the entire engine harness ripped apart. But was able to clear all the codes. My fuel pressure was way off as well Installed a inline gauge to check ended up having 80psi of fuel pressure going into the rail. I don't know if it was something to do with using a junk crown vic fuel rail to convert the system a return style. Put a new fuel regulator in problem is all fixed. Although I'm plagued by the ford curse of restarting the car on hot starts, but it will start with the gas pedal to the floor to clear the cylinders, I will figure that problem out later. Built a new intake as well. Everything is a but dusty at the moment.

I saw the video clip looks and sounds. But now the sound clip won’t won’t even play. On my phone at least so it could be on my end.

This is great stuff. Not to many more things left you can do to this car other then a velo rossa kit which I happen to have one I’m not using. hahaha. Is the hood going to close with the top mount with out modifications? What’s your hp hopes?

Good question: I definitely installed the bracket before I put the trans back in. I think I could fit a ratchet wrench in there with the bracket and clutch fork installed. But to get the bolts out to install a bracket like this, might be difficult with the clutch fork in the way. Maybe a 1/4 ratchet with a 13mm deep socket might work? If you could rig something up to push the clutch fork in and hold it to get that extra inch shouldn't have any issues. These are the only two other pictures I have

After a long wait for transmission parts it's rebuilt now and back into the car working great. Put a new dual friction clutch disk in it as I burnt up my last one with the slave cyl not releasing. I ditched the Wilwood pull clutch set up and built a push clutch system. I recommend to everyone don't even waste your time and money on the Wilwood pull clutch, the slave I found has the proper amount of travel needed to fully release the clutch. I ended up using a 1996 suzuki sidekick slave like $15.

If your using an automatic engine ECU you will see the term PCM more often for fords. Pretty sure your going to have to trick the computer so that it reads neutral, could be wrong but something to research. Or source a manual PCM, I'm sure you can re program the auto out of the PCM. You will have to supply 12v switched power to the injectors and coils the PCM doesn't have the power to do that. It works off grounding to firing everything. You will need a OBD2 port installed to make an SCT Tuner work. Check out BAMA Performance for your tuner and email tunes. I used the mustang shop out of Calgary. I took the easy route by buying a working car and putting the tune on it to delete everything before I pulled the engine, cause I knew I wouldn't get to the OBD2 port wiring right way. Had to tare the dash apart to get that wiring. 04 I will assume it has PATS that needs to be disabled. And you may not want to keep the return less fuel system. You can always send your PCM away to get everything flashed onto it as well one shot deal.