bimmota

1982 Nissan Datsun 280xz Turbo Auto ECU S130-L28 Ecu part # A18-602-043 Located in Canada, willing to ship Looking to get $300 CAD so $200 ish USD

1984 Nissan Datsun 300zx Turbo Manual ECU Non Cali Model Z31-VG30 ECU # A18-619-372 Someone wrote Auto on the ECU but the research of the sticker comes up manual The ECU is Located in Canada, willing to ship Looking to get $350 CAD So like $240 ish USD

It's doing well it's put away for the winter right now. Going to start doing a few extra things on it here soon. I have autocrossed it a couple times, it works real well not to many cars are keeping up the the time I'm putting down.

BUMP Price Reduced $4500 CAD ($3400 USD) SOLD

Awesome It's always nice to see a refresh new project underway. One thing I may suggest is, those 4.6 engines are tall depending on the intake manifold and throttle body your using. If you want your hood to close without cutting it. The oil pan will sit quite a bit lower then the Datsun sub frame. I cut the a sub frame out of a mustang to protect my oil pan. If I were to do it again I would cut the pan to be less deep or buy a shallow aftermarket one. Cheers

There would be a couple different ways to get around this issue. 1. SCT tuner get the PATS and what you need deleted and upload the tune to the computer. ( Best to do this with the donar car before the engine is pulled to prove it will work, just in case you dont get around to wiring the OBD2 port right away) 2. Trick the ECU so that the auto trans thinks it's in park or neutral so it will start, enough though you have a manual trans. But that will require hiding the extra wiring. 3. Find a manual ECU to swap in.

Velo Rossa Complete Fiberglass Kit · one-piece front bonnet · bonnet hinge reinforcing ring · bonnet hinge bracket · bonnet hinge pins · cheek (side) panels · bond-on door skins · bond-on header cap (top of windshield) · bond-on rear clip (aka "tub") · trunk lid with pre-bonded inner reinforcing https://www.ztrix.com/rebody-kit/velo-rossa/ This kit is has never been sanded mounted or cut, everything is untouched. The kit was made to special order the panels were made thicker then ordering a normal kit. **No Donor car kit only** Asking $5300 CAD for the complete package So roughly $4000 USD Located in Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada

Those Wheels are The RB-X I believe. I'm not sure if my information will help you out or not. But here are a couple pictures of my flare and wheel set up. I ordered flares from japan and 17" Rota RKR rims. 17x9.5 -20, 17x8.5 -10. Tires are 245/45/17 and 275/40/17. However I run a small spacer up front because I wanted a staggered rims set up

The hot start issue doesn't see to be a problem anymore, maybe it just needed a good burn run. I have over 500km on the swap and everything is working nicely, It spins 275 tires with ease and chirps 2nd and 3rd gear shifts. Finally finished painting and polishing the car, cleaned up the engine bay. I will post some better pictures in the future here. But the swap is complete, time to drive and enjoy before I dig into anything else

I had the car running and driving last summer but was having some major issues with fuel. I wired in the OBD ll port and pulled the codes on my SCT tuner had something like 14 codes. Worked through them one by one to clear them all .By the end I had the entire engine harness ripped apart. But was able to clear all the codes. My fuel pressure was way off as well Installed a inline gauge to check ended up having 80psi of fuel pressure going into the rail. I don't know if it was something to do with using a junk crown vic fuel rail to convert the system a return style. Put a new fuel regulator in problem is all fixed. Although I'm plagued by the ford curse of restarting the car on hot starts, but it will start with the gas pedal to the floor to clear the cylinders, I will figure that problem out later. Built a new intake as well. Everything is a but dusty at the moment.

I saw the video clip looks and sounds. But now the sound clip won’t won’t even play. On my phone at least so it could be on my end.

This is great stuff. Not to many more things left you can do to this car other then a velo rossa kit which I happen to have one I’m not using. hahaha. Is the hood going to close with the top mount with out modifications? What’s your hp hopes?

Good question: I definitely installed the bracket before I put the trans back in. I think I could fit a ratchet wrench in there with the bracket and clutch fork installed. But to get the bolts out to install a bracket like this, might be difficult with the clutch fork in the way. Maybe a 1/4 ratchet with a 13mm deep socket might work? If you could rig something up to push the clutch fork in and hold it to get that extra inch shouldn't have any issues. These are the only two other pictures I have

After a long wait for transmission parts it's rebuilt now and back into the car working great. Put a new dual friction clutch disk in it as I burnt up my last one with the slave cyl not releasing. I ditched the Wilwood pull clutch set up and built a push clutch system. I recommend to everyone don't even waste your time and money on the Wilwood pull clutch, the slave I found has the proper amount of travel needed to fully release the clutch. I ended up using a 1996 suzuki sidekick slave like $15.

If your using an automatic engine ECU you will see the term PCM more often for fords. Pretty sure your going to have to trick the computer so that it reads neutral, could be wrong but something to research. Or source a manual PCM, I'm sure you can re program the auto out of the PCM. You will have to supply 12v switched power to the injectors and coils the PCM doesn't have the power to do that. It works off grounding to firing everything. You will need a OBD2 port installed to make an SCT Tuner work. Check out BAMA Performance for your tuner and email tunes. I used the mustang shop out of Calgary. I took the easy route by buying a working car and putting the tune on it to delete everything before I pulled the engine, cause I knew I wouldn't get to the OBD2 port wiring right way. Had to tare the dash apart to get that wiring. 04 I will assume it has PATS that needs to be disabled. And you may not want to keep the return less fuel system. You can always send your PCM away to get everything flashed onto it as well one shot deal.

Well took the car out for a test to burn this weekend. The engine seems to run pretty good the stumbling only seems to be during cold, once I'm out on the street idles just great. Need to wire the OBD2 port up next to pull codes. Few issues: pretty sure I blew the seals in my new Wilwood pull slave cyl, brake fluid everywhere still holding the pressure tho, but leaks when I push the clutch pedal in. Need to come up with something new there. The clutch slips pretty bad in 3rd gear and up it wasn't new but it is a center force stage 2, I haven't looked to see if the slave is releasing all the way or if the clutch is soaked in brake fluid. And I bent the shift forks in the transmission it doesn't like to shift very nice anymore. Definitely not fault. So the trans needs to come out for a rebuild. It still moves pretty good with a slipping clutch All in All I'm pretty happy mostly everything works for a 2 month build just going at it on weekends.

Ya I made that crack fitment issues, had to put it in the vise and bend it. Went a little to far I'm swapping that piece out for silicone hose soon ish here. But I have since tin tapped it made no difference. Apparently this issue haunts 99-04 mustangs when you go straight through exhaust, BBK throttle body and intake. I pulled the IAC valve all apart seems clean and working. I put the expansion black box back in for the IAC too no difference. Maybe it just needs a good burn run let the computer re-learn. Cleaned a bunch of the wiring up today. Installed one of those inline rad hose temp sensors I like aftermarket temp gauges over stock but I will get the stock gauge working here one of these days. Yellowoctupus I noticed you used the hydro booster in your car was it worth it? I assume you have power steering? did you use the ford steering rack. I ask cause I have it all sitting in my parts car do I keep it before I scrap the car?

So far the engine is running pretty good starts so easy every time. However it is seems to stubble a bit once it warms up. I haven’t been able to take it for a test drive yet, waiting on new rear brakes and I haven’t got the temp and rpm gauge working yet. So I’m waiting on those to do a shake down run on it. This is how its sitting as of today. Not a big fan of the intake I need to do something new there. But in the mean time for testing it serves its purpose. I'm not able to fit the strut bar anymore so need to come up with something.

Once I found the correct diagrams I was able to make sense of it. So many different variations of wiring diagrams for the ECU. I tried to use as little of the mustang harness as I could. I did keep the CCRM - constant control relay module which has 5 relays built into it I'm only using the PCM relay in the unit. I believe there were 5 grounds coming off the ecu and 2 vehicle powers I fused to switch power to the CCRM. Fuel pump was wired as a standalone circuit. Didn't use any of the mustang fuses. I was battling the wiring for while, the car would want to fire seemed like it was running on 2 cyl. Stepped back started over put 6-7 ground straps all over the engine to chassis flashed up in half a turn of the starter. I know grounds are important I had a few added a few more made the difference. The engine sits about 1 1/4" below the stock z front sub frame. I'm not sure about the LS engine there expensive up here and hard to find with manual gearboxes. This turned into a free engine after I parted out the mustang.

These T45 transmission are glass pretty sure I bent a shift fork into 4th gear when it was still in the mustang day 3 of driving it. So I got a MGW short throw with the back stops to prevent you from over shifting and taking out the transmission. The location isn't quite in the factory Z spot little more forward need to extend the shifter to be comfortable and so I don't hit my knuckles on the dash.

Once the engine was sitting all mounted up. Started on the down pipes. Used the factory exhaust manifolds with flanges. Had to use the 2 1/4" for a few inchs for clearance then expanded to 2.5" dual exhaust. Couldn't seem to track down a spare diff mount to modify for true dual s, so I just Y pipped it dual 2.5" to 3" out to a Borla XR-1 muffler.

I also had fitment issues with my oil pressure sender / coolant neck. So I cut it and tapped pipe threads with fittings for the oil pressure sender. Which doesn't do anything at the moment need it swap it out for a Z sending unit for my gauges to function. to work. The stock mustang rubber mounts have to much movement for my liking so I upgraded all of them. At this time I built the trans mount as well I went with the high volume Wilwood M/C 3/4" and Wilwood pull type slave for the clutch set up we will see how they hold up. After buying 7 belts finally found the winner to delete the P/S and the A/C. And the oil filter doesn't fit so I found a shorter filter to be able to unscrew it when it comes to time for an oil change. Now time for a new fuel rail to get rid of the return less fuel system. I was going to go after market but after lots of research and complaints after market rails don't like to fit with MSD coil on plugs. I wasn't about to spend $700 on rails to to make the engine's fuel return to the tank. Went to the junk yard lucked out found the exact same style of fuel rail from a 99 crown vic that was a return style fit like a gem. Made a EGR block off plate After having the engine in and out so many times, wore out the threads on my engine leveler. finally got in the spot I wanted as far back as possible and and high as possible. There's about a 1/4 ish gap between the throttle body and the hood.

I cut the engine cradle out of the mustang to modify to fit into the Z. Trimmed it to fit between the frame rails I welded 2.5”x2.5” angle iron to the frame rails for added support and twisting. The engine cleaned up quite well. Dropped in the engine in for a test fit to see how it fit. Just enough room.

Hi all I’m usually not one for build threads for my projects. But I thought I might throw something to together here. There seems so be a few abandoned 4.6L mod motor threads. First off I have to give major props to yellowoctupus pretty much pioneered the way for the mod motor swap to make us believe it was possible with an excellent write up and knowledge. It's a budget build, parts and these engines are everywhere. I have a 78 280z. I purchased a 1999 Mustang GT donor car, drove the mustang for a month made sure everything was good to go on it. Engine has 100,000km on it, yes kilometers with a newer crate T45 transmission with 5000km. Bought a SCT Tuner, programmed the tune to Delete: Rear O2 sensors, EGR, Return less fuel system, PATS anti-theft, and 91 octane tune. Tune shop suspects just over 300hp with this tune they have used so many times.