HOLLAATYABOYY1
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Posts posted by HOLLAATYABOYY1
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I’m trying to spend as little as possible for it to pass inspection because I’m ripping the drivetrain out
i have turned the screw out until the engine sputtered and died. It took a few quarter turns for her to start and stay running and I left it like that .....
is there anything else else I can do to insure that I pass my co2? Octane booster? Which kind?
Also a known problem i and the orevious owner had was backfiring. If you hold the throttle at a constant 2-3k rpm and let go you will get a nice size exhaust backfire. Will this effect co2. Is there anything I can do that’s free to look at this (besides testing coil)
thanks
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Amazing thank you
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On 4/5/2018 at 11:16 PM, NewZed said:
If I don't pass I adjust it outward until I hear the engine stumble a bit then run it back in a turn. You're supposed to use a gas analyzer. In Oregon we get unlimited tries, so, one or two passes and you're done.
Hows it going guys can you tel me what screw I’m supposed to be adjusting ?
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EDIT. RE-soldered the switch wires. Works now
How’s it going guys I’m trying to get my headlight switch to work correctly. I got the parking lights to work but just in the second position while the headlights are on. I took it apart cleaned up all the contacts , I’m just trying to pass inspection Does anyone know how to wire a toggle switch to just the parking lights ? Or an easy no cost way of fixing this issue ?
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Need a headlight switch for my 76 datsun 280z
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Looks like I will need to swap my clutch master on my stock 76 280z. The plan in the near future is to LS/t56 swap. I I as wonderful omg if there is a clutch master I can swap in now so I can drive it as is and then reuse it with the swap? Will the tolton 7/8 Work?
Thanks
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6 hours ago, weedburner said:
When I convert the FC RX-7 from IRS to solid axle, I go with a torque arm suspension. Basically a couple lower control arm chassis brackets that attach to the same place that the original IRS subframe mounted to, along with a torque arm that extends forward below the driveshaft. The nose of the TA anchors to the top of the trans tunnel (driveshaft passes thru the middle of a shackle style arrangement), easy to do in an RX-7 because there's a lot of room above the driveshaft in a piston powered RX-7. Here's a link to my page on converting the FC to solid axle... FC/8.8 Solid Axle Conversion
I have also seen IRS cars converted using basically stock geometry FOX body Mustang triangulated 4 link suspension. It appeared that they simply stuck the rear under there, then fab'd chassis brackets in place to fit the links. Fox Mustang rear just happens to be the same width as the FC's IRS.
Grant
Damn. Either way I see a lot of fab in my future. Not sure I’m inclined enough
many idea if the swap kit on that site will work for a s30?
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6 hours ago, NewZed said:
If I don't pass I adjust it outward until I hear the engine stumble a bit then run it back in a turn. You're supposed to use a gas analyzer. In Oregon we get unlimited tries, so, one or two passes and you're done.
Do you do that before you leave your house going to get inspected or once you are there and fail
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1 hour ago, NewZed said:
There should be a big silver sticker on the driver's side door jamb that says either Catalyst or No Catalyst. Sometimes the guys get confused when they see the spot for it underneath or they just assume that all cars have converters. The sticker is what matters though, make sure to point out that it says NO catalyst. Unless the car started in CA then you need to put it back on. Federal law, no tampering.
If I recall correctly, high CO is due to incomplete combustion. Your hydrocarbon levels are under though so you're not far off. You can probably get there by opening up the idle air bypass screw on the side of the AFM, under the rubber plug. Turning it outward lets more air past the AFM vane, leaning out the idle mixture.
Also, set your timing to spec. If it's too far advanced you can get misses, that will cause problems.
Any idea how much to adjust it outward ?
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32 minutes ago, Neverdone said:
This is the sticker he's talking about. It's on the underside of the hood. If your car doesn't have one, you can literally by one from MSA for 25 dollars.
There’s one problem fixed I know it’s off topic. But do you guys have any info on troubleshoitingvthe parking loghts(side markers )
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5 minutes ago, SleeperZ said:
My Federal 1978 280Z did not come with a catalytic converter. Judging by the limits you posted, it looks like your state uses the Federal emissions standard, and that should be able to pass without a converter. It looks like your test station has incorrect information - yes the California 280Zs came with converters, I think they were added along with fuel injection to meet higher CA standards.
Delaware is horrible no one knows anything. I’m going to have to argue that one out wih them. Do you have any way you can help me pass the co2 test without dropping a bunch of money into it ?
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Oh I was under the assumption that they didn’t come with onenunless it was in CALI
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1976 datsun 280z. Not in Cali needs to pass an idle test.
Did this year 280 come with a cat? They wrote on my fail sheet no cat and no muffelor . But I was under the assumption I didn’t need a cat (will install muffelor )
Looks like I failed O2 by a little bit. drove the car 20-30 mins to inspection station. Filled with 93 octane. I know I have a bad air regulator( can change but am told that’s only for cold start). new spark plugs / old oil , old wires, old filters. I just need to get this thing to pass and then I will be doing a motor swap so I don’t want to sink in a lot of money. Can anyone help me out
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If you we’re dead set on going with a solid rear axle on a 76 280z. What is the best way to go about it ? It doesn’t look like anyone sells any kits for this to make it into a 3-4 link suspension
Many info would be greatly appreciated
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NEEdto make a decision soon on what I’m going to do with my rear. Long term goals are BIG HP I don’t want to keep breaking axles. That’s why I’m thinking 4 link. DECISIONS DECISIONS
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Bump for more info.
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Got it. Also found fouled spark plugs and a broken aux air regulator
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I was under the assumption that it would actually start with the starting fluid for a few seconds but it doesn’t even do that. So I’m really not sure
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Update.
Still not starting. I wanted to make sure Iwas back at square one again so I sprayed starting fluid in it and as long as I’m cranking the starter and pedaling the gas I’m getting popping likenit wants to start and as soon as I let off it dies. The fuel pressure gauge I bought doesn’t work for this application so I can take check the pressure but I knownim getting fuel to the rails
the attached video is at the tail end when im sure the starting fluid was all but finished. It doesn’t start at all. Just pops.
I think it became flooded after this because it doesnt even pop at all like it wants to start. I was told the cold start injector would flood the engine/plugs
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5 minutes ago, ZHoob2004 said:
From your first thread:
Get rid of the filter by the pump. It's not stock, and causes more problems than it prevents. Autozone has a fuel pressure test kit you can borrow (it's a pretty large deposit) and you can put it inline before the fuel rail and make sure you're getting fuel to your injectors. Back to the basics: fuel, air, spark.
Just replaced that back filter with a brand new duralast one. I also took the fuel line off the hose after the fuel filter up top and I was getting fuel pouring out but didn’t verify pressure. I would have at least a sputter or something even if fuel pressure was low right ?!
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4 hours ago, NewZed said:
Here's a simple test that you can do to test the injector opening circuitry of the ECU, and the wring harness. It's been described by a few people over the years and you can figure it out from the first few pages of the Engine Fuel chapter.
Take a jumper wire and attach one end to the negative terminal of the coil. Let the other end hang free. Turn the key on, so that the coil has power and the EFI relay is energized, and tap the loose end of the jumper wire to a good ground. This will cause the coil to spark. Every third tap should cause all six injectors to open. If you get the injectors opening then you'll know that, at least, the required circuit is intact. It won't tell you how long the injectors stay open but it's a simple confirmation. If you get coil spark but no injectors opening then you have a problem, that you can focus on.
You still seem to be looking at things that are easy to reach instead of the things that might matter. But, you'll know a lot more when you're done, either way. Good luck, have fun.
Confirmed that test last night with the neg coil and the ground test. The injectors indeed where firing. I just wasn’t sure if that confirmed that they were getting the pulse while actually trying to start under normal conditions
Also rang out all 6 injectors terminals on ecu connector and they are were getting voltage. I know I have fuel, I know I have spark and I know I have air and she doesn’t even sputter or try to start.
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18 minutes ago, ZHoob2004 said:
I'm not sure what the resistor does, but based on the pictures it looks like the bands are red-brown-orange-gold, which would equate to a 21kOhm with 5% tolerance. A standard 1/4W axial resistor will probably work just fine there.
Thanks a lot bud I really would love to know what it is for. It doesn’t look good and the ecu is at my buddies house so I can’t ohm them out right now and I can’t find anything online about the ecu
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Does anyone know what resistor R311 is in the ecu ? I think I have found at least one problem
76 280z floor pans
in Fabrication / Welding
Posted
Does anyone sell just the front section of both the drivers and passengers side ? I’ve been looking all over google and just find the full length