Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Donations

    0.00 USD 
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

  • Feedback


Ironhead last won the day on June 30

Ironhead had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

5 Neutral

About Ironhead

  • Rank
    Always Here

Profile Information

  • Location
    Nor Cal

Recent Profile Visitors

1034 profile views
  1. Ironhead

    DIY Hoop?

    That definitely would have been a cheaper approach. I probably wasted at least 20-30 feet of tubing with screw-ups bending mine.
  2. Ironhead

    DIY Hoop?

    If you are bending it yourself, I think anyone who has done it will tell you, calculations are kind of meaningless because you are virtually guaranteed to have to scrap a lot of tubing because of do-overs. Maybe not so much if you are just doing a simple hoop, but definitely so for a complete cage. If someone out there can nail the complex, multi-plane bends in one try, they are a better person than me.... I would say for a simple hoop you "might" get it in one try...depending on how perfectly you want it to fit. For a main hoop you will need a single piece about 13' long. But a single hoop is of no value without back braces and cross braces, and what you will need there depends on your design.
  3. The key thing IMHO boils down to rust and the general condition of the body. You cannot determine this through a casual inspection. Get a bright flashlight and plan to get dirty. Look underneath the car in the area below the driver and passenger floorboards. Evidence of severe corrosion and/or shoddy repair includes things like rivets, holes, tape (not kidding), extra layers of sheet metal, bondo or fiberglass. Also look carefully at the area in the engine bay below the battery. Check the rocker panels, particularly around the wheel wells, and look for holes, bubbling paint....or obvious rust. If you are looking at a neglected 1971 Z and are not seeing any rust, odds are huge that you don't know what to look for or are not looking closely enough in the right places. When I was in the market for a Z, I found a shell for sale (advertised as "99% rust free") that was a few hours from me. I had a relative near it and asked him to go "pre-screen" the car for me. He did, said it looked good, no rust, etc. So I drove down to look at it. Well, both the floor pans were completely rusted out...gone...and had been replaced with galvanized hardware store sheet metal that was pop-riveted over the holes. Same thing the rear spare tire well....completely rusted out and covered with riveted sheet metal. Also...the lower areas of the car were covered with pin holes and bubbled paint. My relative I sent to look at the car wasn't an idiot, but he failed to see any of this. These cars are very prone to rust, and the problem is that when it started to appear most of them were several years old and not very valuable. Properly repairing rust is so involved that very few of them had the cancer fixed and it has had years to continue to spread. I mention all this because unless you are handy, can weld and work sheet metal yourself, and want a long term project, significantly rusted cars are a deal breaker. Just getting the rust repaired properly involves so much labor that hiring a pro to do it would cost more than the car is worth. There are rust free and nearly rust free cars around, but in my case I looked at over a dozen and drove to a desert area before I found one. My advice? Find someone who really knows cars and is willing to get dirty to look it over with you.
  4. Some very good advice here... I am doing a similar project...building an LS3 powered track car from a 260Z. For me, the build was at least half the point, so I wasn't going to buy someone else's finished project, although that definitely would make the most sense financially. This is an expensive project, more than I expected it to be, and I am far from finished. I am my own worst enemy as far as costs are concerned, because I do not like to half-ass things. The road racing tube frame sounds like a good idea at first, and the entry price is right, but try to imagine what would be involved in making some sort of usable car out of that...starting with completely fabricating a body to fit it. I personally would not know where to begin... And if you want the fastest possible car for the money, there is no question that the best place to start is simply to buy a late model low mileage 'Vette. They don't hold value extremely well, so really nice ones are available to good prices. I have a sneaky suspicion that even with an LS engine and mods up the ass, I don't think my car in the end will lap as fast as a well driven late model Vette. But's that's ok, like I said for me the build is half the fun. Also be aware that any high end Z car build when finished will be worth far less than the builder put into it. Just the nature of the game.
  5. I had a few weeks where I wasn't really able to work on the car. When I got back on it, I started working on fabbing up the upper dash panel. I had trouble trying to mock things up with cardboard, specifically trying to figure out where to put the bolt holes so that everything lined up. I wound up fabbing the piece up with clear acrylic, which made the task vastly easier. Then I just transferred everything to aluminum and cut it out. The plan (currently) is to weld a tab to the front of the piece, onto which will attach CF panels on which to mount a digital dash and the various switches and controls. That will involve aluminum welding, which I screw up a lot, so we will see how it all goes. Thanks for looking.
  6. Ironhead

    Chickenwing's 75 280Z

    Yikes.... You are a brave man, but glad to see someone has the courage to bring it back!
  7. I think any car that is going to be tracked should run a cooler. Having said that, from what I have read any LSX that is being tracked should probably be dry sumped as well. I guess they put them in Corvettes for a reason....
  8. Ironhead

    Pandem/Rocket Bunny Kit

    Yeah...I put mine up a couple of inches higher than ideal....to leave room for exhaust. I quickly found that everything is a compromise.
  9. Ironhead

    240Z Pro-Touring Build

    The height was mainly what I expected to be the problem. I am also sort of into the E30 BMW scene, and there have been a few swaps into those of BMW V-8s and V-10s of DOHC design. They are freakin huge. In contrast, the LSX engines drop right in by comparison. But of course, putting a small-block Chevy into a BMW gets the purist's panties all in a bunch....
  10. Ironhead

    240Z Pro-Touring Build

    I just read through your project...sounds really good....definitely pushing the envelope. Might be a dumb question, but are you sure the Coyote will even fit? The LSX engines fit because they are a pushrod design and thus quite compact, but OHC V-8s tend to be extremely bulky. I mean, I know anything can be made to fit, but won't it be a major challenge?
  11. Ironhead

    Pandem/Rocket Bunny Kit

    The biggest problem as I see it is that the cell is in the rear crumple zone of the car. But so was the stock tank, and so is your cell under the floor. Most newer cars put the fuel supply over the rear axle/under the rear seat area, so it is protected by the rear subframe in a side impact and is out of the rear crumple zone. But this is all but impossible in the Z. Many have scoffed at the steel frame structure I enclosed my cell within, and it is heavier than absolutely necessary to support the cell. But the goal was to have a degree of crush protection. As I see it, the only advantage to installing the cell under the floor as you describe is to have a layer of sheet metal between you and the cell in the event of a rupture. But constructing a sheet metal enclosure around the cell (as required by every racing organizer I know of) more or less accomplishes the same thing. There is no perfect solution, unfortunately.
  12. It is the II Much. It took me months to get it after paying them in full for it, but not THAT long. I inquired after waiting some time without receiving it, and I didn't really like the tone of their reply. Sort of like I will get it when I get it, after they had my money for months. I think they know that no one else sells something like this, and their attitude reflects that. If it does what it is reputed to do, I suppose it will be worth it. I really REALLY do not want my garage to constantly reek of gas fumes.
  13. I got the fuel cell, fuel filter, and vent system plumbed. I also mocked all the cell firewall cover parts into place just to make sure everything fits as I had intended. Also got the inertia switches installed. I had to use two of them because my fuel pump can draw more current than one is rated to handle. No wiring done yet. I am going to try to get everything mocked into place before I start that nightmare. Thanks for looking.
  14. Ironhead

    Pandem/Rocket Bunny Kit

    In my case, I have found the fuel cell mount, cover, plumbing, etc have taken up most of the rear cargo area. I thought I was still going to be able to get a full sized battery back there....but since a lead acid battery requires a "housing" of its own....there is not enough room. So I am committed to using a lithium battery, even though I didn't want to go that route. My fuel cell could have been lowered or shifted a bit to leave more room....but that would have brought about different challenges. At the end of the day, these are just very small cars, at least by today's standards.
  15. Ironhead

    Pandem/Rocket Bunny Kit

    Thanks Nelson, that is very helpful... I keep going back and forth. I was thinking for a while I was going to use the YZ kit, but then kind of swung toward the Rocket Bunny just because it uses less fiberglass and is more of a "minimalist" approach. So...I dunno...but I am going to have to make a decision pretty soon.