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Ironhead

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Ironhead last won the day on June 30

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About Ironhead

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  1. Ironhead

    ubergumgum's 71' 240z

    Looks like a great project! I agree about the benefits of doing a build log. For me it gives some incentive to finish parts of the project, take the photos, and move on, rather than leaving a whole bunch of things partly done. It also reminds you how much is getting done at times when progress seems very slow.
  2. I just thought I would link this in case some of you haven't seen it. Completely awesome and over the top build. I have trouble believing this car will ever see a racetrack, but he claims that it will. The attention to detail is just unbelievable. We all know the amount of work that goes into a build like this. He claims he built it for a customer. Say he charged $100 an hour for his labor. How many hours do you think are in this build?
  3. Just a small update... I got the front brakes plumbed. I elected to skip hard lines altogether and I am going to plumb the entire brake system with AN-3 teflon hose. I know in theory that using hard lines as much as possible is supposed to give a firmer pedal, but in practice I have driven several track cars plumbed without any hard lines and the brake pedal in those cars felt like I was stepping on a piece of concrete. I have also seen photos of several high end racing cars....including German DTM cars....wherein the brakes were plumbed entirely with teflon/braided steel hose...so I figure if there is a performance/"feel" loss in doing it this way...it must be minor. In addition, using hard lines would require more transitions (possible leak spots) and just be much more of a hassle. Hard lines are also actually less "bulletproof" than the braided steel lines. If not adequately secured, subject to vibration and/or allowed to move, hard lines can possibly fracture wherein braided lines cannot. Plus in my case, the pedal box I am using allows the master cylinders to move slightly when the brakes are applied, to keep a straight angle on the pushrods. So they would have needed to be plumbed with flex hose anyway. I figured I would put my rationale up front since I know the general consensus is that it is best to use hard lines. Thanks for looking.
  4. Thanks. Tire sizes are 275/40-17 front and 315/35-17 rear.
  5. I'm using a digital display in my current build....but with a custom dash. I agree with the others that there is really no good way to integrate one into a stock style dash.
  6. My love affair with these cars goes back to their release. They came out when I was a kid about 9 years old, and from the start I always thought their lines were about perfect. As a teenager I used to watch the Zs in the IMSA and SCCA races at Laguna Seca and (then) Sears Point, driven by Paul Newman, Don Devendorf, Sam Posey, etc. As cool as they were, the wide-bodied Z cars that raced there were not quite as sexy as the Porsche 935s, but I knew I could never afford a 935 and the Z always seemed more attainable. I still remember...at the Laguna Seca IMSA race in May 1979 or 1980, all the competitive Datsun GTU racers had switched over to the 280ZX. Frank Leary's "last year's" 280Z was parked in the Pits with a "for sale" sign on it. He was asking $8000, but there was no interest and I bet $5K would have bought it. But back then even $5K might as well have been $5 million for me. I bet today that car....with genuine race history...is worth big bucks to the "rich-guy-historic-racer" crowd....this car: I looked at several 240Zs in the early 1990s in the quest for a project car. Most of them even then were rusty turds, but I finally found a clean 1972 model with no rust that would have been great. Owner wanted $2500....I was only willing to pay $2000...so we couldn't make a deal. More recently, I had been looking for a project track car, and living in CA it was pretty much essential to find something that would be smog exempt. I didn't want to have to trailer it. I have a 1990 BMW track car (E30M3) that I bought in 2001, and getting it through the bi-annual smog check is such a PITA I have been on the verge of selling it numerous times. It has also severely constrained what modifications I could do to it. The E30M3 is becoming sufficiently valuable, and parts sufficiently rare and expensive, that I started questioning its future as a track toy. So a 1975 or earlier Datsun seemed the obvious choice for me. Performance parts for them are easily available and relatively affordable, and there are always a lot of Zs for sale...even though most of them are roaches. I knew I was going to do an engine swap and complete rebuild, so my plan was to find a relatively "undesirable" example (260Z with an automatic) to keep purchase price down and also keep my level of guilt down since I knew I was going to completely bastardize it. I spent a few months searching, and found one that had spent its life in Palm Springs (Mojave desert) and thus was about as rust free as these cars get. No question, the CA smog laws were a big factor in my ultimate purchase. Without them, I might have opted for a newer (and more rigid) chassis than a 1975 Z to start with. The question I am wrestling with now: When the Z is done, do I sell the BMW?
  7. Ironhead

    Restored.jp parts

    Anyone know of a source for restored.jp CF parts? Their contact link is dead, and Datsmo (apparently a distributor) is not responding to contact attempts. Or is restored.jp deceased...? Thanks much!
  8. Got car on its legs for the first time in 18 months. Camber and toe and everything are all screwed up, no point in dealing with it now though. Feels like a milestone...
  9. Ironhead

    Turbo Meister's TT SBC 240 Z

    Dammit! I was going to make a smart-ass "maybe invest in a parachute?" comment but you ruined it for me! But seriously, major cool car. Looks better than before the "incident".
  10. I finished the basic structure of the dash/instrument panel. Nothing fancy...pretty stark...but all I really needed was a place to mount a digital dash and a few buttons/switches. I am going to have the aluminum portion powder coated crinkle black. Car won't have air conditioning, but I did install a small heater element that will function primarily as a windshield de-fogger. I might put one vent in the dash to serve as a minimalist heater. I am trying to keep things basic and simple, but I remember a morning track event that was cold and foggy. Some guy took a "real racing car" out on track with no windshield de-fogger, and almost wiped himself (and several others) out because he couldn't see a damn thing. So I figured that inclusion was mandatory. Dash comes out very easily...just a lot of 6/32 button heads that screw into rivet nuts to remove the CF panels...in case I need to work on anything behind the dash. Or, the whole assembly will lift out if I remove the larger button heads on the top. Not being new to modified cars, I am pretty sure accessibility will come in handy down the road.
  11. Makes sense....I don't know why I didn't visualize this myself. I don't see any reason why that wouldn't work. I was thinking that the relay needed a separate switched on/off to close it....but it doesn't. Thanks man!
  12. I have narrowed color down to two or three options...all non-metallics...very saturated colors. The leading contender is an aqua-green very similar to the color surrounding the "L" in your avatar.... I might still change my mind though. I am quite a ways from spraying paint. I hear what you are saying about the intertia switches. I know a relay would be the obvious solution, but I am wiring the car with a PDM, which is designed to replace fuses and relays. Yes I could have a signal from the PDM trip a relay, but that would also require another hot power wire coming from the PDM, and it has limited channels unless I want to spend the big bucks on a 32 channel unit...which I don't. One of the advantages of a PDM is simplified wiring...and adding relays defeats the purpose to some extent. But you are correct, and the dual switches have been bugging me for a while. It just isn't the "right" way to do it. I will probably change plans two or three more times before I am through this. I wish there was an inertia switch with more capacity, but I have searched high and low and failed to find one.
  13. Xmas in October! Ordered wheels in June and just today received them. They are Jongbloed model 214, 17X10 front and 17X11 rear. I was going for the '70s and '80s motorsport look, with gold centers and polished rims. My daughter thinks they look "ghetto". Now if I can get tires mounted, I can actually put the car on the ground and move it around! First time in 18 months. Thanks for looking....
  14. Ironhead

    Ceramic Coating

    But again...where is the evidence/documentation that these coatings offer significant benefit? I follow engine building very closely, and I have never seen such evidence, although that doesn't necessarily mean that it doesn't exist. We car people tend to chase fads and jump on the bandwagon of all the latest things that come out, and much of it IMHO is little more than clever marketing. I remember 15 or 20 years ago, it was "cryo treating". No one would install a crank or connecting rod or other critical component on their pet engine unless it had first been soaked in liquid nitrogen...."cryo treating" was supposed to relieve stress in the part or re-align the molecules or some other such crap. I remember when someone's engine threw a rod or something...all the pundits would ask "did you cryo treat it before assembly?" I don't think anyone even does that anymore....or if they do....I haven't heard about it.
  15. Ironhead

    Ceramic Coating

    Ceramics are generally glass hard....I can definitely see how pieces of the coating breaking loose in the engine would cause damage.... Scoring the cylinder walls if nothing else. There is also the issue of confirming/quantifying any benefit these coatings provide. Again, I have no first hand experience. I imagine this will be one of those issues where there are believers and non-believers. Sort of like oil choice....
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