EF Ian

Have to agree with that. If I was doing my build now I'd definitely run a PDM. As it is I am considering re doing the interior and accessory fuse box with a PDM 15, just not sure if its worth it for just that when the main ECU and engine parts wont be using it. I do not wish to re do my mil spec interior harness for the ECU because its too expensive. You also made me think I too should install a circuit breaker by the battery.

Nice run

Nice work so far, looms like your getting there, will keep a watch on how this turns out.

The vapour blasting looks good, will try and find somewhere to do mine. And then possibly a thin coat of lacquer.

I will be re-making my rear interior wiring harness and tidying up the front one. Trying to decide if its worth the huge amount of money to upgrade to a PDM such as the ECU Master PMU 16. Does anyone have advice/opinions on this?

Stripped and mounted to a trolley:Most of this lot won't be going back on. It will look a whole lot nice afterwards. Finned diff, adjustable arms, billet drop mounts and dogbone and the moustache bar and driveshafts will be refreshed. Test fitting the super light wings, these things way nothing, I want to reinforce them a bit so they will end up slightly heavier but will still be a decent weight saving over stock, coupled with the dry carbon bonnet and that should save about 16kg from the front end, possibly more. And one thing I messed up on during engine bay resto, didn't remove the bonnet hinge mounts and this was underneath. You learn from your mistake, not making any mistakes like that this time, everything has come off.

Stripdown:

The car is with Restoshack and work is underway, currently waiting on it getting blasted and unfortunately the blaster can't do it until Mid August. Before that happens mounts will be made for the rotisserie, anything needing shaved in the engine bay will be removed, and underneath the underseal will all be scraped off. On her way to England At the other side: Some part updates: Got a wiper motor from a Honda Civic to refurb, this should be a decent upgrade to the original motor, not that I plan to need the wipers much. Converted my gauge wiring harness to a quick disconnect autosport bulkhead connector and added an oil temperature sensor as I stupidly forgot to include one originally. Will be refurbing and using a finned diff cover to make sure my OS Giken CLSD doesn't get too hot. The intercooler will be converted to Vibrant HD clamps Will be upgrading the drop mounts and dog bone to these billet units. It does annoy me that the caps are black so I will be changing them to gunmetal grey, at the moment I am thinking that all the suspension parts underneath will go gunmetal grey. I have sound deadening ready for the rebuild:

Not been an update in a while, so here it goes: Car is pretty much ready to go, just got to drop the diff and thats all thats left to take off with still leaving it a rolling shell: Carbon hood fits well (it wont be staying that colour) Decided on which shop to use for the work. Its heading over to Restoshack as I believe they will do a great job on it.

Thats pretty sweet, backbox setup looks like it came off a Porsche or some mid engined exotic.

End results look good though. They all are. I really want to run a v stack filter setup on mine but can't find anything with a small enough size (2.5" tube from each turbo) I am hoping to find somewhere that can make me something that could be used with a k&N filter and this would involve a lot of searching to find the right one.

While removing the bend would be beneficial the filter would be too small and you would loose flow and some hp. Even if the filter was 10cm by 10cm which is probably bigger than what would fit there it would be rated to less than 100hp. If you could fit a velocity stack filter on in place of the one you have it could net some good benefits however.

Check out Top Stage Composites, they do FRP and Dry carbon consoles and at least used to make dry carbon dashes.

Nicely done.

Final result looks great.

You can calculate the minimum size you need and go from there knowing anything bigger than that is better. https://www.knfilters.com/filter_facts.htm https://streetandcircuit.biz/engine-air-filter-size-calculator-find-correct-size-air-filter-small/

Good luck getting it sorted so we can see more videos of this beast.

Very Nice

I did some measuring yesterday for speccing new wheels and it look like I'll be able to run a 8.5x16 with a +14/15 offset, there would e no way I could run +20 and thats with skinny coil overs. With the plus 14 I only had 3mm spare, perhaps 4mm at a push. Good news for you if you only want an 8" then as an 8x16 with +20 offset would bring the wheel to the same place as my 8.5x16 ET14 and therefore its quite likely possible for you. Provided you have coilovers though.

Would there be a performance benefit from changing it to a return style setup due to possibly cooler fuel?

Well, it would, but its going to be super close to the shock at the rear if it clears at all and at the front you will be hitting the chassis on full lock.

We do need more videos.

Yes. I have just over 25mm clearance, enough to run a 8.5" but not sure if its enough to run a 9".

That would definitely fit on my car as its only 10mm further in than my current setup and not as far in as my planned 8.5" 245 rear setup will be. Not sure on the front though, while I can run wider there it would mean less lock as my 225/45/16 8x16 +10 already hits on full lock.

Nice solution, I like that.