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JMortensen last won the day on September 7

JMortensen had the most liked content!

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About JMortensen

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    Seattle area, WA

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  1. The car has only been out twice since the V8 swap, and this course was much more favorable to the high hp rear drivers so there was a lot more high rpm/rev limiter stuff going on. But yes, this is the first time this has happened. Course was about even right to lefts, maybe a few more rights, but not a lot more.
  2. Thanks for that. I purchased something very similar yesterday. I'll post pics of the original setup and the new when it's all done.
  3. Well, still working it out. Now thinking I might not have the fresh air vent at all, and instead route the valve covers and valley cover to the can then to the intake. EDIT--would have been one valve cover to the vented can, the other two PCV hoses T'd and attached to sealed catch can and to intake manifold.
  4. Talked to David Carroll and we were both thinking this is a PCV issue. I think I have a fix planned. Upgrade to LS6 valley cover and then run the PCV to the intake with a sealed catch can to separate the oil. Keep vented can as air intake.
  5. Had my Z out at an autox last weekend and after three high rpm runs my L33 5.3 started leaking oil out of the top of the engine, still not sure if it was valley cover or valve cover but it was all over the top of the engine. Question is for those of you who have road raced or autoxed: what mods have you done to get the oil out of the heads and back in the pan? What worked, what didn't, etc. Right now I have a baffled trapdoor pan and 3 qt Accusump and my PCV is just the hoses off the valve covers to a catch can with breather. I've been looking at drilling holes in the lifter trays, porting the oil return holes in the head, switching to later PCV (LS2 I think is the one with the baffle in the valley cover), seen return hoses added directly to the head and oil pan. Would like to solve the problem without pulling the motor if I can, but may not be possible.
  6. JMortensen

    DIY Hoop?

    The guy who did mine used that pic and calculated it out. He also owns a race shop that builds a whole lot of cages. Another way to do it is to bend conduit to shape and then bend the tube to match the conduit. That's how I did the halo and A pillar bars in my cage.
  7. JMortensen

    280z full on track car, help needed

    But that POS has a solid rear axle. Will never handle... Seriously, you're setting yourself up for a huge project. You would be a lot better off if you want track time to buy someone else's completed swap and then do the aero to it. If you are dead set on doing this all to your existing chassis, then we can certainly help, just a lot of $$$ and hours in it. "Best" kit IMO is Hoke Performance. It fits with long tube headers too: http://hokeperformance.squarespace.com/store/ For widebody I'd suggest http://www.ztrix.com. Their YZ is probably the most popular, looks fantastic. I really like the 940Z kit also, kinda sorta looks like 944. If you search "chassis stiffening" there are many threads on different peoples' cages. If you're going SLA front and rear that will mean that your cage will probably be a lot different than mine, for example, since I built the cage to attach to the strut towers. Data acquisition on a new car is so easy, many plug and play OBD systems out there. On a Datsun, you're going to figure all of that out yourself, which will be a PITA. There is a guy who took a Z06 and cut the torque tube and welded it together shorter, then modified the YZ kit to fit. It is amazing, handles like a Vette, has brakes and suspension like a Vette, etc. This might be the easy way if you don't mind mega fender flares. Do the bodywork, add a wing and a diffuser, and you're goals are pretty much met.
  8. When I bought my current Z in 1997, I did it because it was a CHEAP, light, easy to modify autox car. In that order. Now that they aren't cheap anymore, if I were looking for a car to mess around with and modify/race, I wouldn't choose an S30. Probably go Miata, BRZ, or 350Z. The S30 downsides of rust, age, crappy handling out of the box, and hard to get/expensive parts makes it a loser for my particular purposes at today's prices. YMMV.
  9. JMortensen

    E31 head mods

    I had them done on my E31, didn't do it myself. No problems. If you think about it, a LOT of heat transfers from the valve to the seat. It wouldn't make sense for that area to be really thin.
  10. JMortensen

    Fender frame? What is this called?

    Yep. Nicely done.
  11. JMortensen

    Fender frame? What is this called?

    Agree with Richard. The huge attachment point of the upper frame rail and its connection to the the cowl which is a torque box is an important part of the already weak Datsun structure. If you're going to replace it there needs to be a load path, can't just weld a plate to the firewall and then run the brace off of that. Running it to the A pillar bar of a cage, which is then reinforced by door bars is a good way to handle it if it needs to be removed. Grannyknot's mod looks fine, but I would weld the original frame rail back to the tube that he added, so both are structural.
  12. JMortensen

    HybridZ PNW Auto-x Day

    I signed up, then got into the Monroe autox which is 8 miles away and gets 14 runs, then it rained so I didn't go. What a disappointment.
  13. JMortensen

    R200 pinion flange nut torque

    That "put it back where it was" suggestion is a bad one even for a diff that has a crush sleeve. The R200 has no crush sleeve. The spec is RFT, I want to say it's something like 150 - 200 ft lbs. I always use red loctite on the nut the put my impact on 5 and hit it, empty the compressor until it fills, then hit it again. Never had any issues.
  14. JMortensen

    DIY Hoop?

  15. JMortensen

    Thoughts on this s30 project

    The VIN is stamped on the firewall near the brake master. Above IIRC. You'll see it if you look for it.