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JMortensen last won the day on February 17

JMortensen had the most liked content!

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About JMortensen

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    Retired Admin.

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    Seattle area, WA

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  1. JMortensen

    Quafe R200 LSD install

  2. JMortensen

    Quafe R200 LSD install

  3. Man, I feel bad for you Mark. Every dyno session, with the latest iteration of the motor anyway, has been a clusterfuck. I hope you get it sorted. I am pretty sure you're running the Porsche style CVs. I've heard of the bolts coming loose on quite a few different Datsuns. Might be a good idea to safety wire them. Could do the same with the driveshaft bolts too if you want.
  4. We should have a betting pool. I can't remember if you have an air filter. If you do, I'd put my $5 on the stack second from the right making the most power by 2 hp.
  5. JMortensen

    280z FP Build

    I'm rubbing nickels together but should be able to get mine up and running again in a month or two. Have a bad master and need to replace the tires just due to age. Was carb tuning last time I ran it, too. Big problem for me is that I was way over the dB limit last time. I put Supertrapp tips on my mufflers, so hopefully I can just adjust it until it passes, but that might affect the carb tuning and all the rest. If I do get there, don't expect a lot is what I'm trying to say...
  6. This looks like a question for ls1tech.com. From some quick reading, shorties are worth next to nothing compared to stock manifolds, big increases possible with long tubes.
  7. The general answer to your question is "as far back as you can manage." John's Cars kit puts it at about 4". I moved mine further back, IIRC I'm at about an inch and a half on the pass head. It's not a simple thing. I had to cut the trans tunnel for clearance in front, and the 70 tunnel is narrow so I had to beat it with a BFH to make it fit. If I went further back I would have had to cut the tunnel in the rear too, or just cut the whole thing out and made my own, otherwise the bottom of the trans would have hung below the frame rails.
  8. JMortensen

    Another clunk post - ugh

    I think it's likely that the problem is sloppy CVs or splines on the CV shafts, but that said, there are quite a few other causes of diff clunking. I wouldn't count out every other possibility without at least checking the CVs for slop. If there isn't any, then maybe this post will help:
  9. JMortensen

    Questions about Auto-X

    Yeah, that's pretty much it. Stockish Z suspension sucks. The Z was competitive in Street Prepared until the E36 came into that class. Again, I don't keep track of the classes I'm not in, but that seems to have been the end of it. They might have demoted it to a slower class by now but I haven't heard of the good news about its renewed competitiveness and I'm in enough groups that I think I would have heard.
  10. JMortensen

    Questions about Auto-X

    Sounds like FP. You might fit in one of the street mod classes. They came about after I was already committed to Prepared so I never paid much attention.
  11. JMortensen

    Questions about Auto-X

    Street Prepared.
  12. JMortensen

    Questions about Auto-X

    Prepared class allows extensive engine mods. Can't do a stroker, but triple carbs or ITBs, huge cams, crankfire ignition, etc all allowed. L24/26/28s are allowed in SP too IIRC. In all likelihood people won't care if your car is legal for a class unless you're racing with SCCA (people who run events seem to be hall monitor types) or you start winning. Once you start winning they'll look closer.
  13. JMortensen

    Questions about Auto-X

    You'll need interior to run in stock or street prepared. Z's suck in those classes, BTW. With no interior you'll be in Prepared. L6 will go in FP, where the Z is still competitive but not likely to win anytime soon and it takes a lot of money to build a competitive FP car, or with an engine swap you'll be in XP, where you won't be competitive at all. If you want to win, you've probably got the wrong car to start with. I just figure out who I'm close to in times and then run against those people and have fun.
  14. JMortensen

    Lowering with Strut Insulators

    Same. If you need a set of insulators I have some off of a 240 that sat since the mid 80s so should be low miles. PM me if you're interested.
  15. I've got some thoughts about that roll bar design: 1. Don't like the X up high. Too much weight, and you're reinforcing the strut towers with the top of the tube where it isn't very stiff. 2. I would do the backstays to the top of the strut tower. Plate that whole trapezoidal area and weld the stays to the plate. 3. The bars in yellow are great if you are connecting to door bars on the other side of the main hoop. Without door bars I think it's just extra weight to carry around. 4. If you want an X, you can do it low, from the strut towers to the bottom of the hoop. I did this on mine. Would be MUCH easier to install if you cut out the storage cubbies. I didn't. 5. I'd just go with a straight bar across the strut towers EDIT--Also connect the top of the hoop to the map light area of the roof with a shear plate.