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JMortensen

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Everything posted by JMortensen

  1. Flipping cages shouldn't be necessary with the Silvermine adapters. If you go to put them in and can compress the CV enough to fit it in the car with the suspension fully drooped (where the CVs need to be shortest), then don't worry about flipping cages. If you can't compress enough, then you can get into all that BS. It doesn't gain you much, really need to flip and then grind the axle down for clearance. But you shouldn't have to do any of that.
  2. FYI, the shaft size on the motor is not 5/16, it's 8mm. About .015 difference, but it's enough that the adapter won't fit. I've got an 8mm drill bit coming, seems like the quickest fix. 2 of the 5 manometers have shown up. They're pretty heavy. Looking like I will have gauges all the way across the pass side of the dash.
  3. Thought I had more pics of the driver's side. The longitudinal bars are welded to the frame rails. The rest is stitched to the floor.
  4. 2 ideas for you: 1. Cut foam out of the seat. This is going to be A LOT easier than modifying the mount. I did the same on my Miata to get clearance for a helmet. Just have to pull the cover off the bottom, cut with an electric carving knife, and reassemble. The seat cover will probably be loose after. 2. Remove the original seat mounts and make shorter ones. I have done this to install aluminum race seats on my 240. The 240 has a significantly different floor pan, and I'm not familiar enough with the 280 to give specific advice, but here are some pics of what I did to my 240. I did 1" tube on the driver's side, and 2" tube on the pass side.
  5. Well, this is all snowballing. Still waiting on my electric motor to arrive. I did go ahead and buy the adapter for the shafts so I didn't have to wait even longer for that. Have all of my plumbing fittings for the diff cooler, pushlok hose arrived today. Have to drill another hole for the oil return and weld a bung to the diff cover for to feed the cooler. I found an old thread of Coffey's on another site where he talked about welding fittings to the cover, so I'm confident that it can be done. I can probably weld it myself, even though my tig work is shit. Doesn't really matter what it looks like, as long as it doesn't leak. Nobody is going to see it. Bought 5 cheap used 1" magnehelic gauges off of ebay and a pitot tube. $75 min order from the mfr of the little puck things, so I bought 8 of them. Figure if I'm going to do it, might as well set them up in different areas and that way I can test a bunch of stuff at the same time, and not have to do 1000 runs, seeing as how my car isn't street legal. Should have about $300 into it by the time I can set it up and test. Gauges were between $15 and $25 each. Thinking I can grid out spots to test on the car and then do a track day and just change the position between sessions or even just pull in to the pits and change positions and go back out, and just pick a comfortable rpm to run down the front straight (no speedo) and set up a camera to watch the gauges. Do 1 or 2 runs to test pressures, and then enjoy the rest of the session. Probably have to extrapolate a lot of info, but seems like should be able to get a pretty decent idea of what is going on. Little concerned about how to hook up 5 manometers to the one pitot tube. Edgar had a video where he attached the pitot to an aluminum bottle, for all intents and purposes, and then measured off of that. I watched a couple days ago. Should have bookmarked. Thinking might be able to do that and then run 5 taps out to the manometers. Just not sure that I can run 5 manometers with tees off of the 1mm tube alone. That seems like a problem. Thinking of making a removable dashboard for them that hooks to the cage so I don't have to set it up every time, and pitot bracket that attaches to the cage near the window, so it can be bolted and unbolted easily. Also really want to get a cheap wing to put on the car. It has a lot of tricks on the front and I feel like it is probably going to need something to balance it out. This one I found looks similar to the 9 lives racing setup at a fraction of the cost, just have to make uprights and have the mounts welded to the wing (will pay someone to weld this part, if the wing comes off it's a big problem). 65" width, chord is 9 3/4, profile looks reasonable. Has a built in gurney, could stick a bigger one in front of it if necessary. Then I can work towards a better one later on. later. https://www.ebay.com/itm/324563472720
  6. If anyone wants to buy some of those pressure patches, I'll have 3 extras. Diff sold, so I'm spending some money.
  7. Think I figured out my question about where to test pressures. You can test before and after a radiator because that's where the air flow is different and affects flow through the radiator. On the diffuser it's affecting the airflow over the car vs underneath. Pressure on top of the diffuser or in the cabin is irrelevant because it should be the same on top and bottom, so it's pushing as much up on the floor as it is down and whatever effect is that has is negated.
  8. This looks like the video to watch for measuring devices. I am a bit confused by the pitot tube vs the puck measurement. I had thought that if the aerodynamic forces were working on a specific part eg a diffuser since that's the focus of the thread that you would want to test pressure on top of the diffuser and on bottom, not the bottom vs a pitot tube way up higher than the car. I'm questioning the need to have that huge stand on the hood too. Porsche's looks more modest:
  9. Hmm... saw one with a pitot tube, looked them up on ebay and they're $300. I've been watching a bunch so I'll probably run into it.
  10. I'm pretty sure I can use a manometer, but I don't want to drill a million holes in everything to test. I've seen it done where they have tested in maybe 20 spots around a paneled floor and then kinda guessed at the numbers in between and then used that data to convert to pressure and get an estimate of downforce. Would be cool to do, but I think for all of that I'd rather put pots on the shocks and look for suspension compression. Although I'm sprung pretty stiff, so that might not work as well in my case.
  11. LS is the easy button, and the aluminum ones are about 40 lbs heavier than the L series. Transmissions are heavier, but it's not as bad as most people think. If you're determined to keep it Nissan I'd go VQ. Requires major hackage of the front crossmember, to the point where I'd just ditch it and make one from scratch, or cut the center section out and fab the center section back in after getting the engine in place with one of these: https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html. I wanted my LS as tight to the firewall as I could get so used one of those tools and it was really easy to work on the mounts with the engine supported from up high.
  12. Julian Edgar maybe? Julian Bailey is a DJ.
  13. Yeah, I did think it was weird that they blocked above the diffuser to "decrease drag" but allowing air over the diffuser would decrease the wake behind the car, decreasing drag. Saying you don't know what you're doing isn't the best way to sell your idea either. The main bit I got was that Alumanate material, which I had never heard of. I'm going to put the angle on the OUTSIDE of the diffuser too... I'll look for Julien Bailey. I've been watching AJ Hartman's stuff and trying to find other sources, so that's helpful. Thanks.
  14. Gurneys work by deflecting attached flow and creating turbulence. The flow in this area is already detached and turbulent because the flow around the wheels and wheelwells already makes a low pressure area. It's like putting a spoiler in the middle of a hatch back. If the air isn't attached, it's not doing much, if anything. Google "cfd race car sedan" and you won't find one that has flow lines that are attached in that spot. I found this one that really shows the problem. I stuck the gurney placement on the Subaru in green to show the problem. If you're talking about putting a gurney at the leading edge of the fender opening to create even more turbulence in the wheel area, that's a different story. I have those on my car.
  15. Sold my cover in about 10 min for $320. If you've got one you want to sell, ask for $400 is my advice... Dive planes make a large vortex that flows down the side of the car. Top side of canard is high pressure, bottom side is low pressure. As the air passes spills off the sides and back of the dive plane, it spins around to mix and return the pressure differential back to zero. The vortices down the side of the car would help to suck the air out of the fenderwells. About 4:30 into this one he draws it, and it looks like the drawing is actually the thumbnail for this video. Convenient if you don't want to watch:
  16. Googled it, came up at an auto parts site. Can't remember which one. I thought the pics were pretty good. I think they're pretty accurate with the sizing, must be a fixture they use and then stick one part under the camera, click, next part, click. The pads in the later one are bigger, and that gigantic steel piece that holds the pads on the early one really is that big in comparison. Weird caliper. Has dual pistons, one fits inside the other and the push away from each other, sliding the big clamshell thingy and applying the brakes. Stupid design. All of the ZX calipers are failure prone. Ebrake is the issue.
  17. Yeah, I'd bet a 510 guy would know what rear to use with stock fronts. Tube80z has some 510 experience. I'm sure Ermish would have the answer. Gary Savage on FB too.
  18. Don't use the S130 brakes. Use the rotors, maybe, but not the calipers. You're upgrading the front, right? If so, just go to a 510 vendor like www.ermishracing.com and see what they do for the rear, and then do what it takes to make it work. I had the early 79-81 S130 brakes on my car using a ZQuip bracket (no longer in business) and the caliper was HUGE and heavy and the pads were tiny and overheated easily and came off in chunks. The early rotor also has a really deep hat, so that makes the rotor heavier. I'd look for something that uses the 82-83 rotor. I think there is a setup that uses that later rotor and a 240SX caliper with a maxima bracket, but I'm trying to remember details from the 90s so don't quote me.
  19. 510 guys swap in S130 struts all the time. The strut is shorter so it's like sectioning and the S130 brakes are an upgrade. You should be able to run any comparable S130 rear disc upgrade. I've seen Dynalite calipers used on 510s. Would probably have to make a bracket.
  20. Pulled the 4.11 out today. Gonna swap the LSD into the 3.54 and sell the 4.11 and the finned cover. I'm thinking diff is probably worth $1100, cover $300, but I'm kinda out of touch on pricing. Thoughts? Also, figured out what to do for the paneling on the bottom. Going to do alumalite for the center and side splitters, and alumanate for the diffuser. I had forgotten about alumalite, and had never heard about alumanate, but I found this video and reintroduced myself. Now I'm looking at different diffuser shapes, rather than just a straight one. I'll definitely make this more complicated than it needs to be, and probably end up with something pretty cool. This guy has some interesting bits, but I really don't like the gurney after the front fender opening. That seems totally backwards to me. I get it, there is a vent on the back side of the flare, but some dive planes in front would do the job much better. I do really like his diffuser though.
  21. I found one on ebay for $16. Posted the link as an edit. Cheaper than mcmaster.com
  22. On another front, I went out to my shop yesterday to look paneling the bottom some more. Grabbed my magnetic 4' level and slapped it on the bottom of the fuel cell that I had mounted at a 7* angle many years ago, in preparation for making a diffuser. Thought for sure the diff cover would be in the way. Nope. It cleared by 1/8" or so. When I get the cooler on I'm going to run the standard cover, so more clearance at that point. So then I held a piece of angle up to the frame rail and figured out where it intersected the level. From that intersection to the back of the car I've got about 42". So I can make a 3.5 foot long diffuser and it will fit under the car, and the height of the diffuser in the back works out to about 6" tall. Also, the control arms are high enough with sectioned struts, camber plates, and droop limiters that I think I can make the diffuser full width between the tires and not hit anything. I had thought that the diff cover would be in the way and that I'd have to make a shorter steeper diffuser, but nope. Can go fairly huge. So now I've got all of those plans going in my head. Thinking I'll do AL and figure out the sizes with less hassle and expense, and then maybe redo in FG or CF later on down the road. I run the car with a bit of rake so I might have to have the outer fences extend lower than the center to keep it close enough to the ground to be effective, but I did crack open Competition Car Aero and they showed that a 10* diffuser was best on a similar height 350Z, and that it worked even better on a raked chassis (basically the rake doesn't affect the flow attachment, so raking the chassis improves the effective angle of the exhaust of the diffuser). That's good stuff. So might try to build at 10* and just fit it where it fits. I don't think the diffuser entry will be that much further back with the extra 3* of angle. EDIT--Looks like the difference in length between a 7 degree diffuser and a 10 is .259".
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