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JMortensen

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JMortensen last won the day on September 7

JMortensen had the most liked content!

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About JMortensen

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    Retired Admin.

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    JonDatsun
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    petdoorstore.com

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    Seattle area, WA

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  1. JMortensen

    HybridZ PNW Auto-x Day

    I signed up, then got into the Monroe autox which is 8 miles away and gets 14 runs, then it rained so I didn't go. What a disappointment.
  2. JMortensen

    R200 pinion flange nut torque

    That "put it back where it was" suggestion is a bad one even for a diff that has a crush sleeve. The R200 has no crush sleeve. The spec is RFT, I want to say it's something like 150 - 200 ft lbs. I always use red loctite on the nut the put my impact on 5 and hit it, empty the compressor until it fills, then hit it again. Never had any issues.
  3. JMortensen

    DIY Hoop?

  4. JMortensen

    Thoughts on this s30 project

    The VIN is stamped on the firewall near the brake master. Above IIRC. You'll see it if you look for it.
  5. Sounds like a turbo to me...
  6. JMortensen

    HybridZ PNW Auto-x Day

    I bought a db meter yesterday. Going to do a couple runs up my private drive and see if I can't get where I need to be with the trapps. Also bought a head and neck restraint, so if this doesn't work I'll go do a track day and not have to worry about noise.
  7. Agree on front camber, needs more if you're getting serious on the track. More caster would be nice too, but there are issues with tire/airdam clearance that pop up pretty quickly.
  8. Front looks a lot better without the square headlights! Really brings it around! What are you going to do for lights?
  9. JMortensen

    New widebody kit design

    My build thread is old and lots of broken links, but if you search just about any topic here, I'll have a thread on it. Tires are Formula Atlantic rears, so they are 15 x 13.75 Hoosier slicks on 15 x 14 wheels.
  10. JMortensen

    HybridZ PNW Auto-x Day

    Having some issues with my mufflers. I was too loud last time, so I repacked with ceramic wool, then added supertrapps on the tips. The supertrapps are getting plugged by the wool. Took wool out, will replace with stainless scrubble, but that means that it won't reduce as much sound. I think I'm going to try the local autox in Monroe, WA as it's about 8 mi from my house and if they say I'm too loud it's not 4.5 hours driving to figure it out like Packwood. The Monroe autox is at Evergreen Speedway. It's a 1/4 mile oval track, and they run it like a tiny roval. No cone shagging, supposed to get 15 runs, but entries are limited to 70 people.
  11. JMortensen

    New widebody kit design

    Just checked out your instagram. Looks very familiar, but you definitely did it better with your mesh wire. I taped over the wire frame that I made and it was a PITA to get the level right. Very nicely done! I'm also really impressed with your suspension uprights. So many of them are just thick steel flat uprights. Yours are much more sophisticated. I'm sure based on the rest of it that you have all your geometry and FEA calculated out. It looks like it's really done right. Again, very nicely done!
  12. The bar ends wind up forward of the control arm holes. Shimming the bushings back from the uprights fixes this.
  13. Not seeing anything that would cause a dead feeling in the wheel, but IMO that alignment is short on neg camber in front and heavy on toe in in the back for track use. I am not a fan of the 1 1/8" bars, would swap for 1" if I were you. You don't mention a rear bar, but with lowering springs I would run a 1" front and the ST rear bar that attaches to the uprights, and then shim it back 1/2 to 1", whatever fits best. Removing stiction from the sway bar bushing may make the suspension less stiff, but it also makes it smoother which means that the sway bar will resist in a constant way, rather than resist/release/resist/release, etc. When I built my suspension I went to great lengths to eliminate stiction in every way I could, as that makes the car more consistent and allows the suspension to work, and the wheels to follow the pavement better in bumpy turns.
  14. Lots of us built our own, nothing wrong with that. I would suggest that you set up your arms so that you have a minimum amount of threads showing, so if you want the front arms to give you more camber, make them 1/2" longer or whatever with the rod end screwed all the way in, rather than making them stock length and then screwing the rod end out 1/2". I like the idea of using an inner tie rod for the TC rod. If you use a rod end the clevis you make for it will take up some room and you end up with a shorter TC rod which is not ideal. Not the end of the world, but not ideal. The TC rod does happen to be just about exactly the size to run a 5/8" die down it. I did that on a set, then ended up making something from scratch, but I can tell you that it does work.
  15. I've got Adam's book. I actually ended up with a roll cage that was inspired by the balsa testing he did. Fig 12-14 on p90 if you're interested. I thought Staniforth's Competition Car Suspension had more info on how much to use and why, but YMMV. In any event, here is the thread where I showed what I measured when I moved the rack back and forward, used longer and shorter steer knuckles, etc:
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