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About AlbatrossCafe

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    Moving Up

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  • Location
    Lynnwood, WA, US
  1. Welp, after some discussion it sounds like I accidentally included the top pillow mount of the stock strut in my measurements. When converting to camber plates, you don't use that pillow mount anymore. That thing is a good 2-3" thick, which explains why my car is so much lower than I expected. DOH! lol
  2. Sorry, let me clarify. The front struts were cut 1" above the hub. The adapters were welded at the hub. 1" of strut was was left inside of the adapter sleeve. The rear is similar, except it was cut 4" above the hub, and adapters welded 3" above it (so 1" again was left inside of the adapter sleeve). The adapters look like this by themselves: In this pic, the red arrow points to the collars that adjust spring height. The blue arrow points to the collar that adjusts how long the entire tube is. I can screw the top section (part with shock & spring) all day without adjusting the length of the spring. I want to stay at stock height or 1" below because I don't really like the look of extremely lowered Z's and also because I don't want to scrape everywhere I go. This is gonna be tracked maybe once or twice a year so I don't need extreme performance.
  3. I have FINALLY finished just about everything for my coilover conversion in my 1978 280z with Stance coilovers. I also have TTT control arms. I am at the point of dialing-in the ride height. Stance gave me four 6" threaded sleeves. I had them welded right to the hubs in the front and 3" above the hubs in the back. I was hoping to maintain stock height or maybe 1" lower than stock. Well after getting everything on and lowering the car, it looks like the front was lowered around 1" and the back was lowered around 2". I would like to crank the rear up another inch. The problem is, the threaded sleeve is currently only on by about 5 threads in both front/rear. I am afraid to crank it up in the back because I feel like the coilover will sheer off if I go any higher with so few threads holding. So my questions are... How many threads are "safe" when screwing the sleeve into the coilover? I have not done anything with alignment, track width, etc. Will any of these affect my ride height? What are my options for raising the car if I can't unthread the sleeves anymore? Can I use a top-plate spacer or something?
  4. Any web developers here

    Are you talking about the tahoma", sans-serif fonts? A screenshot of the mac screen would help.
  5. Strut tower brace

    These strut braces won't work with coilovers that have camber plates will they?
  6. Thanks for this. Just about to have a shop cut/weld my coilovers so this helps when giving them directions. @JavelinZ if you are still on here, I have a question. Your front you cut about 1/2" from the bottom of the strut tube, and I imagine the coilover sits right on the bottom lip: Do you remember how far you cut the rear? How far between the bottom of the strut tube is the bottom of the coilover slide-over adapter plate? Any pics? I only want to lower my car maybe 1-2" at the most. I'd probably be happy at stock height, so I don't wanna cut too much.
  7. Can I use the JDM 1-into-2 muffler on an L28ET engine? I'm not sure how the 1-into-2 works with Turbos...
  8. Welp... I guess I'll go ahead and order it anyway and give it a shot. I have a 280z so it should be better fitment I'm hoping.
  9. Did you ever get it installed? Any pics? Did you get the "2 inch" or "4 inch" extension version?
  10. Highest quality type 1 air dam with ducts

    FWIW, I just got my Xenon air dam from MSA about 3 weeks ago and it was shipped un-folded in a full box. Is this the one you are talking about (with the shorter 2" extension)? https://skillard.com/products/240z-260z-280z-front-lip-splitter I wouldn't quite call it "cheap" at $289, but I suck at fabricating these kinds of things so it is probably worth it for me. Do you have any pics of yours?
  11. Finally Picked Up My S30

    Welcome from another 280Z with L28ET and Xterra owner . Lucky you, I want to make my car look like yours. It would have saved me money if I found that one I actually think Nissan is pretty lame though... haha. Their newer cars are bland and gutless, and they take FOREVER to update models (e.g. Frontier has been the same for nearly 14 years, and the 370Z is close to 10). But the early Z's and the Xterra are two huge exceptions.
  12. Which vac hose to tap for boost gauge? (with pics)

    It's really nothing special... just a $15 universal mount from glowshift: https://www.glowshiftdirect.com/universal-single-gauge-swivel-dashboard-pod/ It includes a little rubber grommet to hold the gauge in there securely. I like the location and adjustability, but I might trim 1/4" off the edge of the circle where it hangs over the A-pillar so it looks more flush. I didn't want to do anything very invasive since I don't plan on adding any other gauges. The only problem is that the 2-sided tape provided doesn't stick to that textured surface very well... it falls off. I will have to try another tape. Here is a video of it in action:
  13. Finally sprayed my Z

    Did some of the paint get on your wheels/tires? Paint quality is great. Wish I could get that in a dark blue on mine. I bought a silver Z thinking "everything is in good shape. I don't like the color but painting it won't be that expensive"... my last words lol
  14. Solid axle rear conversion info needed.

    I hope the reason you want a solid rear is because you want to turn it into a 4x4...