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About Whitley_280z_2+2

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    North Carolina

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  1. Whitley_280z_2+2

    280z 2+2 resto mod

    Update: I welded the control arm: Then, after many hours with a wire wheel, Dremel tool, and paint stripper we got all the suspension components down to bare metal. Here's everything with two coats of primer: We also ordered all new bushings, bearings, seals, outer tie rod ends, and ball joints: All that is left for the suspension parts-wise is springs, spindle pins (we are going to just use bolts), and some rubber boots.
  2. Whitley_280z_2+2

    280z 2+2 resto mod

    Northwoodz: It does kinda look like a 2+2 since the rear windows are hinged outward but there was no place for a rear seat as well. Thanks! I found the cheapest way to buy the 3M stuff is on amazon. You can buy a pack of 6 for much cheaper than individual cans.
  3. Whitley_280z_2+2

    280z 2+2 resto mod

    Sorry, the one in the junk yard is not a 2+2. I didn't know that the tail lights were 2+2 specific.
  4. Whitley_280z_2+2

    280z 2+2 resto mod

    Quick update: We removed the stub axels and rear wheel bearings with a slide hammer and 8' , 3 jaw puller. We also rented a bushing tool to remove all the old suspension bushings. Those old bushings are so rusted in that the tool actually bent and broke the control arm instead of pushing out the bushing. So, now I have another welding project. Now I am just going to burn out the rubber and cut the inner ring like others have done. Since we are done with the rust repair and disassembly (except for bushings), we now get to do the fun part: putting it back together! For the bolts and small hardware, I am just soaking them in vinegar to remove rust and I will then use an oxide to coat them and seal with WD-40. I am reusing most of the main suspension components such as the control arms, drop mounts, and mustache bar. I am just wire-wheeling these and then coating them in self-etching primer for now.
  5. Whitley_280z_2+2

    Z31 axle swap problems

    I'm not sure about the boots breaking open. For the length, modern motorsport sells shorter half shafts that give the correct length for Z31 axels but they are pretty expensive. It is possible that fixing the length would prevent damage to the boots because the suspension can bottom out, which stresses all the parts and might be tearing the boots, if the axels are too long. Alternatively, you can try flipping the bearing cages on the axels to make them shorter (just youtube for how to do it). Apparently this works for some people but not for others. Also, as a disclaimer, I have not done this swap yet but I have done a lot of research on this topic because I plan on switching to CV axels soon. Hopefully this is helpful.
  6. Whitley_280z_2+2

    Lowering with Strut Insulators

    Thanks! Yes I am just trying to lower the rear so it looks better. I checked all the dimensions and everything lines up fine, I just wanted to make sure the rear insulators weren't designed differently.
  7. I am starting to reassemble the suspension on my 77 280z 2+2. I am going to use Eibach springs to lower it 1' all the way around but I would like to lower the back more because it sits even higher than the front from the factory. I read that this is a common problem and one solution is to use 240z rear strut insulators instead of the stock 280z insulators. First, does this still preserve the handling? Also, Can you also use front strut insulators from a 280z? Both the front and rear suspension looks identical expect for the 280z has extra large insulators in the back so I wanted to see if anyone had experience with this. The 280z front insulators are way cheaper and easier to find so it would be an better alternative.
  8. Whitley_280z_2+2

    Possible 5.3L engine swaps question

    That makes sense about swapping to an LS1 intake. Thanks for all the help, I think I understand the basic modifications to make the LS style engine work. I've seen your build thread, seems like a great swap! I would go 4.8 but they are harder to find where I live. I wouldn't trust myself to make engine mounts and I think that may be why your stock intake fits. Thanks for the info and great build!
  9. Whitley_280z_2+2

    280z 2+2 resto mod

    The car finally has a solid chassis. I finished welding all the patch panels and we seam sealed everything. Passenger floor pan: Battery area / firewall: We also used some POR-15 patch filler on questionable gaps. We got the underside coated in 3M underbody coating. The 3M stuff has a nice finish and I think it should hold up well. Front passenger wheel well: floor pan: frame rail: Rear wheel well: Trans tunnel: We also got the strut assemblies mostly disassembled. All we need to do is rent a slide hammer to remove the rear stub axels. The rear of the stub axel: We are removing the axels to get rid of the drum brakes and convert to the maxima calipers and 280zx rotors. We found that the best way to remove the gland nut is by clamping it in a vice and then turning the entire strut assembly. Also, the fronts will be converted to 79-84 Toyota 4x4 truck calipers and 280z rotors. We will be using the stock shocks for now with Eibach 1 inch lowering springs and 240z strut insulators in the rear, which lower it an additional inch.
  10. Whitley_280z_2+2

    Possible 5.3L engine swaps question

    Thanks for the help! I read through the link and that information will definitely help. It sounds like it will be best to stick with a pre 2007 engine otherwise you have to do a lot of conversions. I wanted to go with the 5.3 because of the better gas milage they offer. That probably sounds pretty weird for an engine swap I am not super concerned about weight reduction so I do not think the extra 100 pounds will be a big deal. It does sound like an LS1/T56 would be an easier swap. Thanks for the information. I will definitely look at using a 6.0 truck engine or 5.7 LS1. I thought it was necessary to switch to a LS1 intake for the hood to close. However, if you can keep the stock intake / throttle body I will probably just do that. It would be nice to keep cruise control. Also, thank you for the warning about the CX racing headers. I don't think Johns cars sells Z parts any more. I did find the short headers at Jags that run (or is that the same thing?).
  11. Whitley_280z_2+2

    280z 2+2 resto mod

    Update: Over the past week or so, We have spent a lot of time working on the underbody. We stripped off all of the undercoating and paint and then used self etching primer to coat the entire underbody and wheel wells. Floor pans: Trans tunnel: I also welded in some patch panels behind the rear wheel wells. Passenger side: Driver side: Rear Wheel well: We bought a steering rack from a junkyard 280z. One of the tie rod ends on ours was messed up.
  12. I have a question regarding 5.3L chevy truck engines for a 280z 2+2 swap. The plan is to use a v8 swap kit like the Hoke performance or Johns cars, headers (CX racing has some good ones), fuel injection, LS1 intake manifold, and a manual throttle body. My question is does anyone know which chevy 5.3L truck engines will work? I know the early Vortech engines are popular, like the LM7 and L33, but will the more modern engines 2007-present work as well? For example, will the Gen IV LY5 and LMG and Gen V L83 engines still work? Has anyone gone this route, or are these engines too difficult to wire and work with? Also, will these engines mount up to a T56 or TKO600 manual transmission? Thanks very much for the help! The only info I found by searching the forums is that these engines have DOD which I would need to deal with.
  13. Whitley_280z_2+2

    280z 2+2 resto mod

    Update: After finding the bondo behind the wheel well, we ground all the bondo away and patched the rust holes. Apparently the previous owner had repaired this area by welding in a big sheet of metal and then using a bunch of bondo. This area will still need some body filler to make it look smooth again. I also welded up all the holes in the rear of the car (Some were from 280z bumper mounts etc and some were from rust). Here's what is looks like now. We then coated the inside of this bumper area with POR-15 to prevent future rust. (That is why there is some black paint in the pictures above) Next, we started working on the underbody. I just used a heat gun and a scraper to remove the undercoating and then striped the primer with aircraft remover and a wire wheel. After primer: Battery are came out pretty good! The next steps will be to apply seam sealer and underbody coating. We looked at a local junkyard for LS engines and did find a 5.3L LS out of a 2002 Tahoe in pretty good condition. This is exactly the type of engine we are looking for so we might go back and get it. While we were there, we came across this 280z and a 300zx. Will definitely be grabbing some parts off the 280 and I need to figure out if the 300zx is a turbo or not. Also, I was thinking about stitch welding the engine bay of our car but decided not to after seeing this 280 and doing a little research. If you look closely at the seams of the 280 in the junkyard (like the shock towers) you can see that the previous owner had stitch welded and all these areas. Now, these spots have some major rust, granted this car has probably been sitting out there since 97 judging by the inspection sticker. Apparently, stitch welding makes these areas susceptible to rust because all the paint and primer is burnt off inside the seams.
  14. Whitley_280z_2+2

    280z 2+2 resto mod

    I haven't made a whole lot of progress on the car. Here is what I have done. Removed front suspension I also removed the spindle pins...took a lot of hammering and of course I ruined them. I also welded up the passenger rocker panel. And a section on top I also found that the area behind the rear wheel wells on both sides of the car has been repaired in the past. There was a lot of bondo in both spots. I need to decide if I should try to weld in new metal or just patch up the bondo. I didn't think that this was a common rust area for these cars so I wonder why it was bondoed in the past on both sides.
  15. Whitley_280z_2+2

    280z 2+2 resto mod

    Based on my research, it looks like the best option for the rear differential would be the LSD from a 1987-1989 300zx turbo (especially the Shiro special). If I can't find one of these off of Craigslist or from a junkyard the OBX LSD differential for a R200 from Ebay might be the next best bet, although it sounds a little risky and would require a rebuild. I also looked at the Subaru R180 diff but I can't find any of these that are below $600 and they would also require the R180 mustache bar and new splines. Other than that, I don't think it would be a great idea to daily drive a welded diff