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Whitley_280z_2+2

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About Whitley_280z_2+2

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    North Carolina

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  1. Whitley_280z_2+2

    280z 2+2 resto mod

    Update: I got the rear hatch patched up: I also finished the other fender: I Mocked up the E-brake cable. I still need to drill out the brackets so the ends of the cable fits but everything was roughly the correct length.
  2. Whitley_280z_2+2

    280z 2+2 resto mod

    @cros13 I checked out your build...really neat! A lot of things have been going on with the car. First, we got it on the ground! These are just temporary wheels / tires, I think they are stock but I'm not sure. It looks like it is sitting at the original height (before lowering springs) but it should drop when we add an engine and other parts. Before: After: We made sure to torque all bolts that compress bushings after the car was sitting on its own weight. We also started working on the fenders... they had some pretty bad rust spots on the bottom. One of them just required a single patch panel: And primer: The other side was a lot worse: There is also a tiny spot on the rear hatch I will have to fix: Headlight buckets are also being cleaned up: We also removed / broke the windshield Now, onto brakes and the differential: We went with 84' Toyota truck calipers in the front: 87' Maxima calipers (from R1 concepts), ZCardepot bracket, and 84" 300zx na rear rotors in the back instead of the drums: We are going to swap in a 1' master cylinder and all new ss brake lines. I can't decide if we should use soft lines from calipers to the body hard lines - or hard line from caliper to strut, and then soft line from strut to the body. I took most of the differential apart. I think we are going to swap in the OBX LSD with ring gear shims and new internal washers as others have done. It looks like it is in great shape: I think we will stick with the same ring gear and hopefully the same shims will work. I think we will probably replace the bearings / races even though they seem fine. I cleaned up the housing for now: That brings the build up to date, Thanks!
  3. Whitley_280z_2+2

    280z 2+2 resto mod

    The front and rear suspension is almost completely finished. We started by attaching the knuckles to the ball joints: Next, we attached the new Eibach springs attached the knuckle/ ball joint assembly to the strut housing: We also assembled the steering rack with as close to factory alignment settings as I could. Then, put it all together: The rear suspension went in pretty easily as well: I also started working on the engine bay to get rid of the rust and make it clean looking:
  4. Whitley_280z_2+2

    280z 2+2 resto mod

    I haven't updated this thread in a while but here is some of the progress: All the suspension parts have been painted black and most bushings have been installed: The bushings went in easily with a 12 ton press. I also cleaned up and painted some other parts like the steering rack housing: We then spent a large amount of time installing the rear wheel bearings. We used a 12 ton press to fit the inner and outer bearings to the stub axel and housing respectively. At that point, I realized the stub axel threads were messed up from the previous splined nut. We got a M20 1.5 die to straighten that out. Next, we pressed on the companion flanges and replaced the stub axel nut with the non-splined version from a 280zx, which still needs to be torqued down. Rear wheel bearings are done! This took a lot of time because we have never replaced wheel bearings before. Also, these rear axels seem way too tight now but I think this is only the companion flange washer rubbing on the inner grease seal. Before we put the companion flange on they would spin like a top but now it takes a significant amount of force to spin. Up next will be to assemble the suspension with new Eibach lowering springs: and KYB gas shocks: I've also spent a lot of time restoring the nuts, bolts, washers, etc. Some important hardware such as the spindle pins and stub axel nuts will be replaced with all new parts but the other hardware was in pretty good condition so I will be reusing most of it. We went with the popular 5/8th bolt for the spindle pins: To restore the hardware I initially tried to use a Black Oxide kit from Caswell Plating. First, I soaked the bolts in white vinegar overnight to remove any rust. Then the bolts went into the black oxide and then got coated with the sealer provided with the kit. Unfortunately, after I let the bolts sit overnight the majority of the hardware developed some pretty serious surface rust. This was probably my fault as I may have done something wrong in the process or used to much hardware for the kit. I ended up soaking all the hardware in vinegar again, rinsing them in mineral spirits to remove any residue. and using some Boesheild T-9 to seal the parts. This process worked great and it even left the black look from the previous oxide: With the hardware and parts all restored we can start bolting everything back onto the car!
  5. Whitley_280z_2+2

    280z 2+2 resto mod

    Update: I welded the control arm: Then, after many hours with a wire wheel, Dremel tool, and paint stripper we got all the suspension components down to bare metal. Here's everything with two coats of primer: We also ordered all new bushings, bearings, seals, outer tie rod ends, and ball joints: All that is left for the suspension parts-wise is springs, spindle pins (we are going to just use bolts), and some rubber boots.
  6. Whitley_280z_2+2

    280z 2+2 resto mod

    Northwoodz: It does kinda look like a 2+2 since the rear windows are hinged outward but there was no place for a rear seat as well. Thanks! I found the cheapest way to buy the 3M stuff is on amazon. You can buy a pack of 6 for much cheaper than individual cans.
  7. Whitley_280z_2+2

    280z 2+2 resto mod

    Sorry, the one in the junk yard is not a 2+2. I didn't know that the tail lights were 2+2 specific.
  8. Whitley_280z_2+2

    280z 2+2 resto mod

    Quick update: We removed the stub axels and rear wheel bearings with a slide hammer and 8' , 3 jaw puller. We also rented a bushing tool to remove all the old suspension bushings. Those old bushings are so rusted in that the tool actually bent and broke the control arm instead of pushing out the bushing. So, now I have another welding project. Now I am just going to burn out the rubber and cut the inner ring like others have done. Since we are done with the rust repair and disassembly (except for bushings), we now get to do the fun part: putting it back together! For the bolts and small hardware, I am just soaking them in vinegar to remove rust and I will then use an oxide to coat them and seal with WD-40. I am reusing most of the main suspension components such as the control arms, drop mounts, and mustache bar. I am just wire-wheeling these and then coating them in self-etching primer for now.
  9. Whitley_280z_2+2

    Z31 axle swap problems

    I'm not sure about the boots breaking open. For the length, modern motorsport sells shorter half shafts that give the correct length for Z31 axels but they are pretty expensive. It is possible that fixing the length would prevent damage to the boots because the suspension can bottom out, which stresses all the parts and might be tearing the boots, if the axels are too long. Alternatively, you can try flipping the bearing cages on the axels to make them shorter (just youtube for how to do it). Apparently this works for some people but not for others. Also, as a disclaimer, I have not done this swap yet but I have done a lot of research on this topic because I plan on switching to CV axels soon. Hopefully this is helpful.
  10. Whitley_280z_2+2

    Lowering with Strut Insulators

    Thanks! Yes I am just trying to lower the rear so it looks better. I checked all the dimensions and everything lines up fine, I just wanted to make sure the rear insulators weren't designed differently.
  11. I am starting to reassemble the suspension on my 77 280z 2+2. I am going to use Eibach springs to lower it 1' all the way around but I would like to lower the back more because it sits even higher than the front from the factory. I read that this is a common problem and one solution is to use 240z rear strut insulators instead of the stock 280z insulators. First, does this still preserve the handling? Also, Can you also use front strut insulators from a 280z? Both the front and rear suspension looks identical expect for the 280z has extra large insulators in the back so I wanted to see if anyone had experience with this. The 280z front insulators are way cheaper and easier to find so it would be an better alternative.
  12. Whitley_280z_2+2

    Possible 5.3L engine swaps question

    That makes sense about swapping to an LS1 intake. Thanks for all the help, I think I understand the basic modifications to make the LS style engine work. I've seen your build thread, seems like a great swap! I would go 4.8 but they are harder to find where I live. I wouldn't trust myself to make engine mounts and I think that may be why your stock intake fits. Thanks for the info and great build!
  13. Whitley_280z_2+2

    280z 2+2 resto mod

    The car finally has a solid chassis. I finished welding all the patch panels and we seam sealed everything. Passenger floor pan: Battery area / firewall: We also used some POR-15 patch filler on questionable gaps. We got the underside coated in 3M underbody coating. The 3M stuff has a nice finish and I think it should hold up well. Front passenger wheel well: floor pan: frame rail: Rear wheel well: Trans tunnel: We also got the strut assemblies mostly disassembled. All we need to do is rent a slide hammer to remove the rear stub axels. The rear of the stub axel: We are removing the axels to get rid of the drum brakes and convert to the maxima calipers and 280zx rotors. We found that the best way to remove the gland nut is by clamping it in a vice and then turning the entire strut assembly. Also, the fronts will be converted to 79-84 Toyota 4x4 truck calipers and 280z rotors. We will be using the stock shocks for now with Eibach 1 inch lowering springs and 240z strut insulators in the rear, which lower it an additional inch.
  14. Whitley_280z_2+2

    Possible 5.3L engine swaps question

    Thanks for the help! I read through the link and that information will definitely help. It sounds like it will be best to stick with a pre 2007 engine otherwise you have to do a lot of conversions. I wanted to go with the 5.3 because of the better gas milage they offer. That probably sounds pretty weird for an engine swap I am not super concerned about weight reduction so I do not think the extra 100 pounds will be a big deal. It does sound like an LS1/T56 would be an easier swap. Thanks for the information. I will definitely look at using a 6.0 truck engine or 5.7 LS1. I thought it was necessary to switch to a LS1 intake for the hood to close. However, if you can keep the stock intake / throttle body I will probably just do that. It would be nice to keep cruise control. Also, thank you for the warning about the CX racing headers. I don't think Johns cars sells Z parts any more. I did find the short headers at Jags that run (or is that the same thing?).
  15. Whitley_280z_2+2

    280z 2+2 resto mod

    Update: Over the past week or so, We have spent a lot of time working on the underbody. We stripped off all of the undercoating and paint and then used self etching primer to coat the entire underbody and wheel wells. Floor pans: Trans tunnel: I also welded in some patch panels behind the rear wheel wells. Passenger side: Driver side: Rear Wheel well: We bought a steering rack from a junkyard 280z. One of the tie rod ends on ours was messed up.
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