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About Whitley_280z_2+2

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    North Carolina
  1. 280z 2+2 resto mod

    Update: Over the past week or so, We have spent a lot of time working on the underbody. We stripped off all of the undercoating and paint and then used self etching primer to coat the entire underbody and wheel wells. Floor pans: Trans tunnel: I also welded in some patch panels behind the rear wheel wells. Passenger side: Driver side: Rear Wheel well: We bought a steering rack from a junkyard 280z. One of the tie rod ends on ours was messed up.
  2. I have a question regarding 5.3L chevy truck engines for a 280z 2+2 swap. The plan is to use a v8 swap kit like the Hoke performance or Johns cars, headers (CX racing has some good ones), fuel injection, LS1 intake manifold, and a manual throttle body. My question is does anyone know which chevy 5.3L truck engines will work? I know the early Vortech engines are popular, like the LM7 and L33, but will the more modern engines 2007-present work as well? For example, will the Gen IV LY5 and LMG and Gen V L83 engines still work? Has anyone gone this route, or are these engines too difficult to wire and work with? Also, will these engines mount up to a T56 or TKO600 manual transmission? Thanks very much for the help! The only info I found by searching the forums is that these engines have DOD which I would need to deal with.
  3. 280z 2+2 resto mod

    Update: After finding the bondo behind the wheel well, we ground all the bondo away and patched the rust holes. Apparently the previous owner had repaired this area by welding in a big sheet of metal and then using a bunch of bondo. This area will still need some body filler to make it look smooth again. I also welded up all the holes in the rear of the car (Some were from 280z bumper mounts etc and some were from rust). Here's what is looks like now. We then coated the inside of this bumper area with POR-15 to prevent future rust. (That is why there is some black paint in the pictures above) Next, we started working on the underbody. I just used a heat gun and a scraper to remove the undercoating and then striped the primer with aircraft remover and a wire wheel. After primer: Battery are came out pretty good! The next steps will be to apply seam sealer and underbody coating. We looked at a local junkyard for LS engines and did find a 5.3L LS out of a 2002 Tahoe in pretty good condition. This is exactly the type of engine we are looking for so we might go back and get it. While we were there, we came across this 280z and a 300zx. Will definitely be grabbing some parts off the 280 and I need to figure out if the 300zx is a turbo or not. Also, I was thinking about stitch welding the engine bay of our car but decided not to after seeing this 280 and doing a little research. If you look closely at the seams of the 280 in the junkyard (like the shock towers) you can see that the previous owner had stitch welded and all these areas. Now, these spots have some major rust, granted this car has probably been sitting out there since 97 judging by the inspection sticker. Apparently, stitch welding makes these areas susceptible to rust because all the paint and primer is burnt off inside the seams.
  4. 280z 2+2 resto mod

    I haven't made a whole lot of progress on the car. Here is what I have done. Removed front suspension I also removed the spindle pins...took a lot of hammering and of course I ruined them. I also welded up the passenger rocker panel. And a section on top I also found that the area behind the rear wheel wells on both sides of the car has been repaired in the past. There was a lot of bondo in both spots. I need to decide if I should try to weld in new metal or just patch up the bondo. I didn't think that this was a common rust area for these cars so I wonder why it was bondoed in the past on both sides.
  5. 280z 2+2 resto mod

    Based on my research, it looks like the best option for the rear differential would be the LSD from a 1987-1989 300zx turbo (especially the Shiro special). If I can't find one of these off of Craigslist or from a junkyard the OBX LSD differential for a R200 from Ebay might be the next best bet, although it sounds a little risky and would require a rebuild. I also looked at the Subaru R180 diff but I can't find any of these that are below $600 and they would also require the R180 mustache bar and new splines. Other than that, I don't think it would be a great idea to daily drive a welded diff
  6. 280z 2+2 resto mod

    Update: finished welding the battery area - final result after folding up the edges and welding: (sorry for the bad phone pics) I also removed the rear suspension: Hopefully they will clean up nicely. The overall plan for the suspension and brakes: +new coil overs all around (possibly the ground control brand because they are affordable, but haven't decided yet) +new front disk brakes - the Silvermine Motors kits seem to be the most affordable +convert rear to disk brakes +new polyurethane bushings +install a limited slip differential into the current diff housing or replace with an entirely new LSD. Not exactly sure what to do about the differential because it needs to handle about 300 HP for a 5.3L LS swap but the cheaper the better. +keep the current A-frames, mustache bar, etc Any recommendations about the suspension/diff/brakes would be appreciated! Also here is the rust damage on the rear of the car: driver side (you can also see the doors and front air dam in this pic) We also worked on cleaning up the doors and removing the side trim. passenger side rear (going to fill all the holes and install a 240z rear bumper)
  7. 280z 2+2 resto mod

    Since we finished all the welding / metal work in the interior, we went ahead and primed it. For the worst spots with surface rust, I wire wheeled all the rust off and then coated it with POR-15. Now, these spots will be extra protected from rusting in the future. For the rest of the interior I wire wheeled all surfaces to remove any left over sound dampening residue and prepped the metal for primer. Here is the finished product:
  8. 280z 2+2 resto mod

    Did some more work on the 280z today. Finished welding the last piece for the battery area. Here is what it looks like from the outside. To weld this metal, I am mostly using plug welds because I only have access to a flux core 90 amp welder and I am new to welding. So, I purposely left overlap on some areas so that I can fold it up, weld it in place, and then apply seam sealer. Now, we are going to work on the rear of the car... filling the holes in the bumper, repairing some rust areas in the rocker panels, and there is some rust behind the rear wheel wells.
  9. 280z 2+2 resto mod

    This is a build thread to document the progress on a 1977 Datsun 280z 2+2. The previous owner had started stripping the car with intentions of restoring it but it ended up just sitting in a storage container. Before that, the car sat in someone's yard because of a lien against it and eventually a tree fell on the back portion busting out the rear glass and leaving a nice dent. Because the car has been sitting for so long, it has a bit of rust but nothing structural, like the frame rails, is damaged. We've never done any car restoration work before so any pointers would be appreciated. The long term goal is to swap a LS v8 engine (probably a 5.3L or 4.8L), upgrade the suspension and brakes, and have a solid daily drivable Datsun. Below is a list of what we have done to the car already: -Stripped the interior and exterior -removed the sound dampening material with some freeze spray and an air chisel -removed the engine, tranny, and engine bay wiring -misc metal work (cutting out the usual Z rust and welding in patch panels) -coated all internal frame rails and cavities with east-woods internal frame rail coating or POR-15 Here is what we started with. Inspiration / Goals possible paint color Pulling the engine - relatively easy. When you don't have a load leveler, you just use screw drivers to make sure the chain doesn't slide! Hopefully, the steering rack will be salvageable. Cutting out the rust (floor pans, battery tray, and a big spot in the bumper area) Here's some of the welding / patch panels. We used weld through primer so the the welds won't rust through. Battery Compartment The front nose area - patched on both sides driver's side floorpan (not nearly as bad as passenger side just one patch panel near the seat mount). Passenger floorpan - we fabricated a floorpan that was mainly plug welded in place and also replaced a rusty spot in the trans tunnel. a shot of some POR-15 rust convertor work underneath the cowl panel. That brings the project up to present time, lots of work to do still.