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taaron

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About taaron

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    Denver, CO
  1. 78 280Z NA MS2 Setup

    Of course! We wound up going with nylon printed on its side. I'll let you know how it holds up.
  2. 78 280Z NA MS2 Triggering

    So to anyone that gets stuck where I did, DONT FORGET THE MICA INSULATOR ON THE BIP373. The car is running now!
  3. 78 280Z NA MS2 Triggering

    I've done all those things, according to the msextra manual. I put a 1k resistor in r57 because thats what I had around so that worked. 10v is my main concern because that seems to be whats holding me up. I believe spark is now the only thing holding me up. The battery is good, I had it tested at autozone this weekend, and it lives on a trickle charger. My MS2 grounds are currently on chassis (I know bad, getting corrected tonight). That chassis ground is also connected to the block in a real shit (greasy dirty) spot, didn't have time to make a longer cable last night to relocate). My battery sits in the back of the car, so it is grounded to the chassis in the back ( I can run it to the block up front if that needs to happen, however I thought the shorter run cable would be better than having an 11ft ground to the block. I'm going to get all those grounds rearranged this evening and see if that gives me 12v out of that terminal. If not I'm going to start pulling wires one at a time to see where my voltage is bleeding out.
  4. 78 280Z NA MS2 Triggering

    Yup did all of those things.
  5. 78 280Z NA MS2 Triggering

    So great news update, I think. Followed all the instructions, I now have both trigger signals and rpms showing up. New problem is, I'm for some reason just getting 10ish volts out of my relayboard at the fuel pump/coil+ position. Could this potentially be due to some bad grounding? I initially had everything grounded at the starter motor but learned thats a big No No. I moved it a bit further away but I still need to relocate it to the other side of the block, I just didn't have the terminals on me to make the cable.
  6. 78 280Z NA MS2 Triggering

    So I've looked at that site, and going through the VR Conditioner on there is different than on the MSExtra manual. Theres a lot more steps listed and at the same time, it calls out these proto areas that don't exist on these boards. Hardware mods – V3.57 For a V3.57, you’d have to remove a lot of parts to use the Hall / optical input, so we’ll just bring this in through the VR conditioner instead. Place the JP1 jumper in the 1-2 position. Place the J1 jumper in the 5-6 position. Put a 1K resistor in the R57 slot (Or you can use a 1K pull up in the wiring, as above.). If you want sequential coil on plug (or sequential injection with the 3.2.1 code), you’ll also need a second trigger input. Solder a 1K resistor onto a length of wire, and cover the resistor with heat shrink tubing. Connect this resistor-on-a-wire combination from JS10 to SPR1. You could also use PAD7 if you’d rather bring the input in through the DB15. Solder a 470 ohm resistor onto a length of wire and cover with heat shrink tubing. Run this resistor-on-a-wire from the 5 volt terminal in the proto area to SPR1 (or PAD7 if you used this in the preceeding step.). Connect a 0.1 uF capacitor from JS10 to SG or the proto area ground. Install the spark output of your choice. BIP373 or QuadSpark output mods are two possible choices. OEM Nissan SR20DET ignition modules require 5 volt logic level ignition outputs.
  7. 78 280Z NA MS2 Triggering

    Hey All, I just wanted to make a new topic because I have a bit of a more specific question and wanted to make sure I'm absolutely on the right path before I start modifying my board. So I bought a Megasquirt 2 3.57 Assembled board from DIY Autotune. It did not come with the BIP373 transistor (ordered and will be here today hopefully). I've attached pictures of my board and how it currently sits. I know the first thing I need to do is wire in the BIP373 transistor and follow the steps associated with that. Thats pretty straight forward. The problem I'm having is with triggering. I currently have a new 82/83 Turbo ZX Distributor with the trigger wheel from DIYAUTO. I also have the original trigger wheel that came with the dizzy, just not installed. I was wondering what is going to be my best bang for the buck way to set up triggering. Softopz mentioned going the route of the VR Conditioner. If thats the case, do I just follow the steps listed in the msextra manual (Attached to this post for ease of reading). What about setting up tunerstudio. Also should I be worried with all the wires currently ran on the back of my board. I should note I'm currently using a relay board and would like to keep it if possible. I'm not concerned with trying to have the most precision triggering possible, I just want to be able to have a car that I can drive again.
  8. 78 280Z NA MS2 Setup

    In case you still wanted it, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2854991 We're looking at trying to get a nylon piece made, if that doesn't work I'll probably try PETG.
  9. 78 280Z NA MS2 Setup

    I'll definitely share a link to the file once I'm on my other computer tomorrow. Yes its PLA. No its not annealed. Its just in there to hold the sensor right now, the car isn't ready to run enough to heat up let alone run on the street. That being said, SUPER productive weekend. Got all the wiring in. Getting a usb to serial cable from a coworker tomorrow and should be plugging in tomorrow afternoon (still have to buy the software)! Any words of advice Chickenman?
  10. 78 280Z NA MS2 Setup

    So I know its been a little while, haven't had a ton of time to work on this project but finally getting back to it. Got the new turbo zx injectors in, all the clips made. I designed and 3d printed a bracket for the 240sx TPS (which I can make available online if anyones interested). I did run into a problem however. I bought the coolant sensor from DIY Autotune, https://www.diyautotune.com/product/gm-closed-element-clt-iat-sensor-with-pigtail/, and it doesnt fit in the thermostat at all. Can I use the original one?
  11. 78 280Z NA MS2 Setup

    So I've got the distributor on! However the rotor looks like it accepts a bolt or something to hold it on and I can't find anything about this. Am I dumb and just missing something?
  12. 78 280Z NA MS2 Setup

    Damnit. Well I do have the gasket at least haha.
  13. 78 280Z NA MS2 Setup

    So I bought this because I thought I needed it. But with it in place the oil pump shaft doesn't reach the dizzy. Am I mistaken and don't need it?
  14. 78 280Z NA MS2 Setup

    Thanks for the response! I didn't even think about having to order a new distributor cap/rotor so thats on the way now. All that seems like something I can do, but I'm a little stuck on the last part Any more information on this step? I'm a little completely lost here. Also I may have missed an important step, how do I actually connect the new distributor to the rest of the system. Is it just a cable that I can't seem to find? And do I need a distributor mount like this? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-280ZX-E12-80-distributor-mount-plate-OEM-used-w-bolts/382365166699?hash=item5906bd6c6b:g:V-oAAOSw9NBab-wM&vxp=mtr Or can I reuse the original one.
  15. 78 280Z NA MS2 Setup

    So finally started making some progress! Pretty stoked, got the engine to tdc, put the new oil pump shaft in and it lined up! Now I'm a little stuck. A bolt holding the old dizzy on sheared off so I need to figure out how to extract it. I do just want to double check I got the right parts. Does this distributor look right? It looks pretty completely different. Also I bought this optical trigger disk, I'm guessing I still need to put it on. https://www.diyautotune.com/product/54-mm-optical-trigger-wheel-for-nissan-l28et-or-vg30e/
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