Tarheelz
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Posts posted by Tarheelz
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Hi did you figure out what the cause was for the oil caked spark plugs? Was it the piston rings? My Z has 5 out of 6 plugs soaked in oil and I've been avoiding pulling the whole motor...
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On 11/8/2020 at 8:30 PM, bunkhouse said:
Before you assume it needs a complete rebuild, know that these blocks last a long time. I've seen these engines with over 100,000 miles and the bore hone marks are still visible. A common cause of excess oil usage, aside from leaks, is bad valve guide seals. These can be replaced without removing the head or cam. Have you re-checked the valve lash and done a wet and dry compression test to confirm it needs a rebuild?
Hi, thank you for your reply! Yes, I have checked and rechecked the lash multiple times. Did a wet compression and went from 145-150ish to appx 160. Thoughts on that?
Also, I found someone that has a p79 head on f54 block. Really good price what do you think about that combo? Or I could drop my rebuilt N42 head onto the f54 block...
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Hi Hybrid Z'ers so my engine block needs a complete rebuild as all of my plugs are pretty much soaked in oil. I don't have the ability to do anything like this, SO I'd like to hear best options for an engine and 5 speed swap?? I'm sure this is a repeated question but would love some input. Also, I would rather not spend more than $4 grand all in which cuts out some options I'm sure.
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Hi Hybrid Z'ers so my engine block needs a complete rebuild as all of my plugs are pretty much soaked in oil. I don't have the ability to do anything like this, SO I'd like to hear best options for an engine and 5 speed swap?? Would rather not spend more than $4 grand all in...
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20 hours ago, rossman said:
Get the OEM graphite impregnated gasket.
Thank you will do !
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Need to replace my intake/exhaust manifold gasket. Current one leaks at cylinders 5 and 6. Replaced two years ago with ceramic headers addition. Used MSA one. This is a tough job so want to get best quality one ! Thanks for any feedback.
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2 hours ago, jhm said:
I may have misunderstood your original post. Is the rust inside your strut tube (where the shock is installed), or on the underside of your strut tower? My earlier response assumed it was the latter; but now I'm thinking it's the former. Sorry, my bad.
As Newzed stated, you can remove the rust mechanically; or use a liquid chemical product to neutralize the rust. After it's cleaned up and painted, a little oil inside the tube will help prevent future oxidation and help with heat dissipation.
Thank you !! Will do!
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On 4/6/2020 at 9:46 PM, jhm said:
If you wanted, you could put one PU bushing on the "front" of the TC cup, and leave your new rubber bushing on the backside of the cup. This minimizes the risk of damaging the cup due to the inflexibility of PU.
Regarding your second question....I don't know what your definition of "quite a bit" is; but how about removing the rust, painting, and if necessary, weld in some reinforcement sheet metal? It's a pretty simple shape, so it should be easy to cut and fit the reinforcement pieces.
Hey thanks for the input! I will try that. Basically its just surface rust inside the shock tower and I can't get anything in it to sand it out... I'm concerned it will get worse so thinking about putting some POR in it? I could treat it with POR 3 step or maybe just hit it with some rustoleum spray... thoughts ?
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1 hour ago, JMortensen said:
Might want to read this before you install them:
Good to know thank you for sharing! I have new rubber bushings on the TC rod already, so I will return these. I thought they were for the struts (even called 'strut rod bushings').
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Hi, since boarded in from the virus, one good result is I finally get to my do list on the 280Z! I took off the front strut towers to replace the struts and springs and all bushings. I had purchased the Energy front strut rod bushings but do NOT understand where these go from the repair manual diagram. They came in a pack of four see attached pic. Can easily see where the bump stop will go but not these... ?
Also, second concern is the inside of the strut tower has quite a bit of RUST in it and do not know how to deal with that...? The rears are now done and they were totally clean with no rust inside...
Any input would be most welcome! By the way, my car is a 75 280 2+2. Thanks!
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Removed the rail and tested injectors with a 9 volt battery and carb cleaner. 3 work, 2 clogged and 1 dead! Car has been running off 3 injectors! Ordering new ones and a new fuel rail and FPR right now ! Rock auto has new or rebuilt beck arnley N/a injectors anyone have any thoughts on those ?
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Interested in one of the L28 intakes. Also looking for a good 5 speed. Let me know b
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On 8/14/2019 at 6:38 PM, ZHoob2004 said:
According to my 77 factory service manual (you can download this, check google), the fuel pressure is supposed to be 36.3psi relative to your intake manifold.
Subtract the approximately 10psi of vacuum you should have at idle (~20in hg estimated), that gives you the 26 you're reading on the gauge.
I think your fuel pressure is working just fine and your problem is elsewhere and raising the fuel pressure is simply masking the real issue.
Have your injectors ever been serviced, and have you checked that they aren't clogged?
EDIT: Have you checked your cold start valve/system? It has basically the same function as a temperature-controlled choke, but instead of restricting air it just adds extra fuel to the intake manifold while cold.
Thanks, issue still going on running rough. I think my injectors have sediment again
This am I pulled off the cold start and black sediment was in the fuel that I caught in a small plastic container. May pull the whole rail again and clean injectors, replace fuel filter, etc.... that rail is a pain so may just upgrade to a straight one.
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2 hours ago, rossman said:
You might have better luck asking stock zcar questions on www.classiczcars.com. That forum is geared more towards stock cars.
Why not purchase a used one and have it rebuilt? Better yet, rebuild it yourself. I know there is at least one rebuild documented on this site.
Most of us on HZ would look for a more modern upgrade that can handle additional power. And on that note, a 240sx gearbox is an easy upgrade. I went with a z32 gearbox but that requires an adapter plate and machining of the bell housing. 350z, CD09 6 spd is a great one too and you can still buy the kits.
Thanks Rossman. Yeah I have been active on the other other z car forums and I posted this and someone tried to scam me. I've never rebuilt a trans but I did rebuild my engine so might give it a go. Thanks for your suggestions.
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On 8/11/2019 at 5:09 PM, ZHoob2004 said:
Have you actually measured fuel pressure? I had a similar issue with running lean and it turned out to be restriction on the fuel pump inlet caused by an inline pre-filter. Removing that immediately fixed the lean issue.
Hi, well, I have a fuel pressure gauge in between my fuel filter (stock one) and the fuel rail input...seems to be working well. It measures appx 26 with car running but during warm up this is not enough, it wants to cut off unless I unplug the vac from the fpr and then the pressure goes to 40...
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Hi there folks,
L28 with N42 head and block and stock EFI getting really rough warm up idle. Car fires right p but then rough until very warm. What helps greatly is if I unplug the vaccum hose from the FPR (also stock) which increases the fuel pressure to 40 psi. Then the car warms up without cutoff.
Any ideas ?
Ive tested all the connections per the Z fuel injection bible and everything checks out except the AFM which is slightly off.
Ive checked fo vacuum leaks with smoke test and fixed two. Still same issue.
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Anyone have any tips for where I can acquire a rebuilt one? I have stock 4 speed (2+2) and clutch and it's leaking and sloppy. Thanks!
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I used one of those white roloc discs and just spent a ton of time cleaning all the surfaces. Did top of pistons too. This worked for my particular N42. You'll need to vac out the dust as you do this. Can't beat pulling it and having it professonally cleaned and machine decked though.
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It’s a 75 280z mostly stock. New fusible links when I did alternator.
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Hi there Im stumped on this one....So my interior lights were working fine, and after an alternator swap, none work - no map light, no gauges, nothing. Unnamed Z retailer sold me the wrong alternator that was internally regulated and I had to figure it out the hard way. Anyways the correct alt is now on but now interior lights out. I’m thinking something shorted?? Headlamps work. I’ve checked all the fuses and they’re all good. Any ideas?
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1 hour ago, Zetsaz said:
Your air intake is already a cold air intake if you're running the stock one. If you want more induction noise and maybe less restriction then I guess you could replace the original air box with a cone filter, but realistically the change will be minimal since the stock position is already in front of the radiator in the coldest place you could put it.
Yes it’s the stock one. Ok no change then ! Thx!
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I had my N42 Head reworked - new cam grind, new springs and rockers and lashes, all from Rebello racking. It’s shaved 30k to increase compression. Also just bought new timing chain. Have new header and 2.5 exhaust from Mtrsprts. Stock PC, stock injectors, running stock AFM and intake. Will an air intake help boost hp or not?
Oh this is a 75 280z.
Building an l28, need modification advice
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
This is great information! Can someone please point me to the Z car compression calculator mentioned above ?