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Sjoost

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Everything posted by Sjoost

  1. Well guys, I finally solved the issue - Since I got my car without any keys and ignition lock and switch, I had ordered a replica version on e-bay. Once it arrived I looked at the connector and the switch (5 pins,1 missing) and figured that it was all correct. I also checked the details in BE-26, with the B,S,A,IG pins, and the one not named in BE-26, marked as "R". Measured the signals and all seems correct. - After having run through the fuses, relais, and wires, i went back to the switch again. After studying the schematic below, I figured I better measure the signals with the connector in the switch. There I found out there was no voltage signal on the "S" with ignition on START. Checked the schematic below again, and found out that when I would swap out 2 wires in the connector, all would be fine. So thats what I did, I swapped the White Red wire, with a Black Blue one, and starter cranked up right away. Issue solved! So for people getting replica ignition switch watch out for this mix up between R and S. - btw, anyone know what the Black/Blue wire is for? as I have now switched that one in the ignition switch connector. Thanks for the help jhm! cheers, joost
  2. Hi, I am trying to start up my Datsun 280z model 1976 (1975 built), and am having some issue (I think car was last driven in 2013). Items checked: 1. Battery, full, 12.6volts 2. Positive (and negative) wire to starter is not loosing volts 3. Starter positive side to engine body gives 12.6 volts (my conclusion, grounding is fine) 4. When i engage the ignition switch, I clearly hear a click in the passengers leg area (repeated trying did not make it start) 5. I have checked fuses in the fuse box (passenger leg area), and all seem fine 6. I checked the starter engage wire, at the starter, and when the ignition is engaged, I do not get a 12volt reading there. Conclusion, it must be somewhere between the ignition switch and the starter on the engaging wire. What is the most probable issue here, and how do you recommend I follow a step by step analyses to find the problem. You guys are great, any help is welcome!!!! Cheers, Joost
  3. Well things are getting worse (at least for me, as I wonder which way to go now). - I had the car off battery, installed back the starter switch after checking it. Put the battery back on. The head lights actually suddenly worked!!! They never did before. - I put the starter which into start, and the starter engine actually cracked. I did it again, and it cranked again. - Somewhere I put off the headlights. - I started again with the starter switch, and it crancked - I figured i press gas, and put the starter switch back on, .... and nothing, just a click - Put the headlight on, nothing......... Anyone have any clue to what could be the issue here? -After this, i checked the Mass connections and cleaned them near the battery (2 of them). It didn't put my headlight back on. I have a feeling I have a ground issue, causing also my starter not to crack, and also issue on my headlights. I noticed my battery also lost some power over night, as I had it connected. I did reload it back to 12.6volts. Does anyone have any clue what is going on here, and what are the best steps I can take to solve this issue? - Rear lights work btw - dashboard lights work thx in advance guys!! joost
  4. Jhm, thx for the explanation. It had me confused before. The fact that my starter does crank when I apply 12volts directly to the starter where the signal from the ignition switch goes, means that that the ignition solenoid is functioning, right? Tomorrow I gonna get that thing to work, with all this advise. cheers,
  5. Jhm, Thx for your support. The issue I am facing, is this solenoid the same thing as the ignition relais? On the relais board in the passengers leg space (I can hardly access that thing there)? If so, from the manual I was seeing that the same signal passes the fusible wires which are in the engine compartment. My plan was to measure there, in the starter position and see if I get 12 volts there. Somehow I get the feeling the issue is between the fusible wire and the connection to the starter. I will keep you posted on my venture! Joost
  6. just tested the switch, and in "START" position, "B" , "S" and "IG" are all connected as per the schematic and they are all closed from "A". I think this rules out any issue with the ignition switch, right? 7. I checked all fusible links (all 4 right side in engine bay) and they are all connected. I think I will check if the voltage to that point (past the fusible links) when I engage the starter switch. Joost
  7. Hi Jhm, thanx for your fast response. Yes I do have the FSM for the car, and checked out the system. In the BE page 26 i did notice the version I have for the 1976 model does not have the "A" compared to the one you added (I have a manual gearbox, is that related?). Not sure if that makes any sense. My new ignition switch also does not have the "A" and seems to have the correct pins for my 1976 model. The back side of the switch has the letters IG, S, B and R on it and the connector also has one empty spot. So I do feel confident that that part, switch and connector is ok. I do need to do to testing on it, based on the schematic. I also applied the 12volts on the hot post directly, and the starter des crank, so starter is working. It's somewhere between the switch and the starter hotspot. I will do the testing you proposed. What about the Ignition solenoid. What is that all about? Is that solenoid the same as the ignition relais? I do hear the click sound when i start. Lets see, in te mean time, any other advise is always welcome. Joost
  8. Wow 73Ed, I like how those fit & look! I have some 14"mags which I plan to paint black (non gloss) and fit them with 215/65/R14, (or 215/60/r14) which I hope will give me a similar effect.
  9. Hi all, I have a 1975 280z, with stock suspension and 14Inch Slotted Mag BF wheels (notation 91972 on the inside, but no clue what that means). Current tires are 195/70 r14. I'm not sure what type/size of rims I have (and which width 7 or 7.5, ET and J or JJ) I plan to install 215/65 r14, which I think should fit the rims. So I am not considering changing the overall wheel diameter, but would really like to lower the car by 1,5-2 inches. I was wondering if anyone knows the stock height, and advise for a relative simple way to lower. I will not cut the coils, and I prefer not to install coil-overs now. I have been looking around on the forum and I have seen lowering springs, but to be honest, I really cant find what spec springs I should get. I live in Holland and am looking for a solution which I can buy here in Europe. Budget max 500 euro for now. Anyone know the stock ride height, and what would be to right way to go based on my wishes. Thx, joost
  10. Well, In my search it seems that Eibach does not know anything about any suitable springs. They also do not see this product as part of their line in the USA (I really wonder how those others are then Eibach's). Also many tuner could not recommend any suitable set. They advised me to look in the USA :-). However, I got a reaction directly from Vogtland. They can supply me some springs. Not part of their main product line, but it does give me a good option and lowers about 3,5 cm. Thx for all your advise!! Cheers, Joost
  11. Hi all, I am looking for a steering column cover shell for my 280z (1975 built). I have found the OEM part number (48470-N3600 , here), but i was wondering if anyone knows if the older 240z (48472-N3300) would fit. Cheers, Joost
  12. Thankyou Jhm, I dropped them a e-mail in Germany. Specific springs for 280z are hard to find via their web sited. Let see, Thx Joost
  13. Thx Gollum, I did find that Eibach is widely available here too. I dropped them a mail to find out which set they recommend. I think i would go for the Sportline set. Cheers, Joost
  14. Sjoost

    steering column cover clam shell 280z

    Thx Mayolives, They indeed have some nice parts on that site. For the cover 72240z has helped me out. joost
  15. Sjoost

    steering column cover clam shell 280z

    nice cleanup. I sent you a private message.
  16. Sjoost

    Hi from Holland

    Hello everyone, Just wanted to say hi, as I just joined this forum. Some weeks ago I got my California imported 280z (1975 built). Been stripping the bumpers off, and now the search for parts has started. I got new keys cut in the usa, as my car did not have any keys anymore. What I really need, is new rubbers, all over. Can anyone guide me to a good source for basically all rubbers used on a 280z? Looking forward to reading through this forum, Regrads, Joost
  17. Sjoost

    Hi from Holland

    Thx Andreas, I will give that a try. Thanks! Joost
  18. Sjoost

    Hi from Holland

    Hi grannyknot, Thx for your links. I did also see those sites, and they have lost of good stuff. I need to have all them shipped to Holland which makes special item as expensive as the item itself. I will need to get the full suspention bushing set, but there are so many more rubber items. Anyone have a good alternative in Europe? Thanks! Joost
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