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Bob-omb

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About Bob-omb

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  • Birthday 04/02/84

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    Las Vegas, NV
  1. WTB S30 Brake Shims

    You can use right or left interchangeably. I had an ear-piercing brake squeal and used 4 right side shims on my brakes. Just make sure the arrows are all pointing forward. Like you can see in the pictures on MSA, the only difference is which way the two tabs on top are bent. They're meant to wrap over the brake pad backing plate, but you can bend them over the other way, cut them off, or leave them as is. The tabs don't rub or interfere with anything, nor do they help locate the shim on the pad.
  2. WTB: 280Z Tail Light Chrome Bezel

    ritrebor hooked me up. Thanks guys! Mods please delete thread.
  3. Hey gang, Looking for a driver's side chrome tail light bezel for a 280Z. Would take both bezels if you've got 'em. Chrome condition is not important, as I will be painting them - just looking for no cracks and good mounting holes. Cheers, Bob
  4. Electric Fans that Actually Cool?

    There's a 1/2" step around the edge of the shroud, plus the side mounting rails are slightly wider than the core. I'd say the fans sit about 3/4" off of the core.
  5. Electric Fans that Actually Cool?

    Yeah, I have a Powermaster alt and bigger fans on my '56 Buick. I was hoping I wouldn't have to go that route, which is why I avoided the ever-popular amp-hungry Taurus fan. The shroud completely covers the core. Here's a pic from their website:
  6. Electric Fans that Actually Cool?

    Thanks for the feedback guys. Exactly the info I was looking for. Spal 30101522 12" (x2) were what I was leaning towards, but wasn't sure if they'd fit. One of Tony D's posts about fans on Zcar mentions something around 2200-2500 CFM being the magic number. The Spal 12" (x2) would be 2656 CFM total. The 12" fans that came with the Champion kit are supposedly 1000 CFM each. 160* thermostat in the summer. 30/70 glycol/water with 1 bottle of Water Wetter. Air flow is the issue, given that the stock mechanical fan is adequate but not great at cooling.
  7. Can anyone recommend a good set of electric fans for desert temps? I've got the Champion Radiator 3-row with shroud and dual 12" electric fans ("550hp rating" says Champion) on my mostly stock '77 280Z. I gotta say, this combo is hot garbage on 100° days here in Las Vegas. http://www.championradiators.com/Datsun-240z-radiator-shroud-1970-1973 With the stock brass 3-row rad and clutch fan, my temp gauge would very slowly creep higher while idling in stop and go traffic -- manageable with no danger of overheating. Same goes for the Champion aluminum 3-row rad with stock clutch fan and no shroud. However, when equipped with the electric fan/shroud combo (yes, they're spinning in the right direction), the needle climbs up to 3/4 of the gauge sweep within 15 minutes of stop and go traffic and steadily keeps climbing. It only cools at highway speeds when the fans aren't doing any of the cooling. Any suggestions? Cheers, Bob
  8. Any idea if it will fit a 280Z? Blackdragon, MSA, etc. all list this part as being 240Z specific, but it looks identical to the one in my '77 280Z. Cheers, Bob
  9. SDS EM4-6D EFI EMS ECU

    "You know much that is hidden, o Tim." That's quite the extrapolation you got from my little non sequitur. I'm not laughing at either SDS or megasquirt, and quite respect both. Just pointing out the use of the comic sans font on the product itself (not the website; which I find no fault with) is akin to a funeral parlor playing Yakety Sax. Anyway, GLWS Joe!! These letters here and on the SDS ECU, that's comic sans:
  10. SDS EM4-6D EFI EMS ECU

    I've heard nothing but good things about SDS, but the comic sans font and the speak & spell programmer really make it hard to take it seriously (...much like naming something "megasquirt"). I'd be all over it if I had the cash. GLWS!!
  11. The correct part for the 280Z nut is: 73.25.00.025.1 (M52 x 1.5p) I don't think the number changed. Looks like 73.25.00.007.1 (M51 x 1.5p) was never the right part.
  12. That's the plan. The Monroe spacer and nut are a perfect fit and don't interfere with the shaft. I'll inquire if these parts are available individually from Monroe. Might be a cheaper alternative to the $20 a pop Koni nuts. I should be able to return the Koni parts, no problem. I'll post what I find out about the Monroe parts.
  13. Calm down...is joke... Anywho, the point is, 73.25.01.007.1 (what you listed in the FAQ) is the correct number for the M51 x 1.5p nut, which is the WRONG PART. Per your sage advice, and from my own experience, I ordered it via the part number rather than "hey, I need a gland nut for a 280z". The M52 x 1.5p nut is the correct part. Please edit the FAQ.
  14. Johnc, I think you may have the wrong part number listed for the 280Z Koni gland nut. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/120671-koni-gland-nut-loose/
  15. Thanks for the info, Kevin. 73.25.01.007.1 (M51 x 1.5p) is part number/specs listed in the "Strut Sectioning FAQ". Admins can you please confirm and edit the FAQ? JohnC can I send you the bill for these little pieces of gold?
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