destruck

There's a guy that makes custom bellhousings for the 4g63; http://www.billsautofab.com/recent_mit.asp I wish someone made mounts, I am in the process of doing this swap but have no welder =/

Just see'ing if anyone is familiar with the z31 ECU. I have one installed on my L28ET (its a late model 16 bit version) swap, the wiring has been gone through and now its at a point where the car was running fine but as went for a test drive and it fried the ecu to the point where it would not start. The car ran off another z31 ecu but its an older model 8 bit one. Now, I am wondering if anyone can point me in the direction of what fried on the ecu and if it was just the ecu or is it wiring. I am trying to get a ecu tuner to look into it but the local guy is very backed up at the moment. Any help is appreciated.

Ah, progress!

Looking to get a 11mm rail made, with feeds on both ends and a return in the center. Is this possible? Thanks

Haha ain't that the truth with tax returns... I actually never ran the motor sat in my garage for a long time til I bought another 240z with a l28et swap in it already and sold that motor off lol. How does that core fit the s30? I wanted to buy something similar to that for mine it should handle cooling for the small amount of power pretty easily.

Yup I bought your motor way back when. Was just checking to see if you were since I'm in the market for suspension soon, but it's all good. Can't wait to see the progress this car gets.

Another one huh? And another bad ass motor swap! And I just saw you going to be selling the suspension setup. What's it consist of and what will you be looking to get out of it? *(If your sig is updated)*

I'm interested in knowing this as well. A/C is always nice to have.

Loving the fab work. Eager to watch the progress on your car.

No luck yet. I took everything apart to delete all the extra smog / emission stuff to see if it helped. I am getting ready to make block off plates and put it all back together soon, I just let it sit since I picked up another toy in January lol. If this does not work, I will probably accept defeat and go sbc 350 carb.

I've gone through everything in the FSM with no luck. I've got to go through it again because something is clearly wrong.

Well, just a quick update. The VCM was eliminated and the issue still persists. I unhooked the wastegate and it seems to still do the issue without any boost building as well. I did get a chance to spray some DeoxIT contact cleaner on all the plugs, and let me tell you, it made the car run so perfect. Idle is perfect, motor sounds so smooth now. However, my stumble / back fire is still there around 2k rpm's. I am going to try a known good set of injectors and next up is to check the whole harness from end to end.

If I do go ahead and delete the VCM, I will run a vacuum source to the AAC but can I do the same for the EGR or is it best to delete this as well? It's raining here so I haven't had a chance to check the timing again but I still need to take a look and see what is up with it. I may have been rushing last time and just missed it. CAS and wheel I will check, I found a crack on the distributor cap but it does not touch any of the contact points so I don't know if it effects anything or not.

Can the VCM go bad / fail? My vacuum use to be around 10 before I did the timing, but when I did the timing I found a hose that wasn't plugged in as well as the VCM wiring one of the two connectors was unplugged so I plugged it back in. I guess I could delete all this and see if ti helps? At this point I can't even find the timing on the pulley anymore at idle, I'm not sure if thats because it is running so bad or something is off, but I will look into that some more. Timing has been corrected at the chain a friend and I put it back to TDC and where it should be with new timing components. Ignitor is as far as I know a L28ET stock one, and the coil I just replaced with a stock 280zx turbo unit as well because the old one tested bad. My next step was to actually dizzy and the cas sensor in the process because we thought that might be an issue as well but I will test it now that I know. I could not find a method of testing it before. Also planning to get some DeoxIT contact cleaner spray as it seems to work great by many members on here to clean up the connectors. All this is really helping me hopefully I can figure this out and get her back on the road soon. Thanks guys.

It's pretty much a weekend / fun car so 2 months of driving wasn't much at all. It seemed to get worse very quick. When I bought the car it was in bad shape, and with a little work it seemed to run good. I do not know the history of the car at all, it very well could be a Frankenstein setup. It is marked as a F54 / P90 that's all I know for sure. It is as far as I can tell a 82-83 motor and was running a 81.5 turbo ecu and AFM. With the leak down it was verified only to be leaking out the rings, I actually was for sure it would be the head gasket but no bubbles in the coolant, and no leaks out the exhaust or intake. The numbers shown in the leak down test are what really got me and that's what I wanted to know if these two problems are related. At this point I have very well considered a swap since I have to pull the motor.

I have not tested the flow rate anywhere else, as the regulator has a gauge which I am using to verify no loss of pressure during idle or rev's. It did the same thing on the old stock pump as well as this new walbro unit. I plumbed a new return because it caused the pressure to rise to 50, but left the original feed hard line. I can try this if it is necessary even with the gauge on the regulator. Pulled each plug and did the old spark on the block test, but using the timing light sounds like a better method to verify it with. I am not sure if any of the vacuum advances work, or where they are on this car. It still has all the emission as far as I can tell as well. Boost leak was tested at the turbo. Found a bunch of leaks on the intake, j pipe and almost every hose. Ended up replacing every hose on the car and making sure there was no leaks. Held enough pressure that the pop off valve released. No boost gauge at the time to verify what PSI. We cleaned the injectors mildly, and verified they were firing evenly (and that all were firing) by eye. They held pressure, and none seemed to spray more then the other(on a shop towel). I actually thought about getting some spares to see if this was the problem. I thought I should add, this car slowly progressed from running "ok" to not being able to rev over 2-2.5 over the period of a couple months. I was driving it when I first got it and it seemed to be running rich but other wise fine. Slowly it got to the point where it would not rev past certain rpm's starting around 5500 and then dropped to 4500, 3500 and now this. There was no tweaks or changes in between it just happened and I had no explanation for it. This is when I did the z31 swap because the afm tested bad and I thought it was the cost, but nothing changed at all, it still had the exact problem with the z31 setup now. The vacuum has been at 10 every since I got the car, and now has dropped to 5 after I did the timing (which was off). Would a wide band help me with anything here? I have a down pipe ready to go on that has a bung already so I could put one in, but I don't know if it will be any help.

So I'm on the fence about this motor. I have gone through a lot of it already and am at the point of a pretty big choice. Opinions / thoughts gladly welcomed. For starters this is a 70 240z with a full L28ET swap 82-83 harness, 83 motor, which is now running on a z31 ecu, maf and trigger wheel. Done so far?: New Walbro 255 pump with a new return line to tank (restriction issues) Aftermarket AEM FPR keeping fuel pressure at 30 with vacuum source New cap, coil, wires, NGK BPR6ES - 11's gapped to .040 New timing components, and corrected motor timing New o2 sensor Boost leak check done Vacuum leaks checked and corrected Ecu was installed into a running car when I purchased it Maf was tested against a know working one Currently the car has a hard start issue, vacuum according to a autometer boost gauge is at 5. Car idles at 650-700 but is super rough, and upon revving while pretty much hit a wall at 2k-2.5k rpms. Here is a short video of what it is doing. This video shows high idle but once I did the timing it now idles much lower.https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=607430065989889&l=8886636705649794642 I have down a compression test which is as follows; Reference - Cap of oil in cylinder 1: 135 - 160 2: 145 - 185 3: 145 - 170 4: 135 - 180 5: 125 - 160 6: 135 - 175 So I then proceeded to do a leak down test which shows cylinders losing 45%-60% through the dip stick. My question is, will this low compression and bad rings lead to the problems I am having? Or could it be something else? Any input is appreciated, from here I don't know if it is worth it to pull it and freshen it up with new rings and gaskets or if it will still have the same problem.

This project is coming along pretty nicely. Those do look good, but they look like they are just too open for me. I also think a headlight cover would make them look amazing. HID bulb choice for me is always near the 5k mark, suppose to be the brightest and most white bulb you can get.

I think a .zip or .rar would make it easy to upload. I think the forums block any unknown file types such as the megasquirt .msq.

Let's start with the basics. Is your car completely stock at the moment? There's lots of information floating around this site about the limitations of the stock ecu and injectors. What is the specifics of the turbo you will be running, and how hard will you be running it is a better question. I'm no expert, but it seems most people max out the stock injectors / ecu around 250-275 using the stock turbo.

That thing sounds pure bad ass. And yes, the firing order should have been CCW.

Of course all the videos are down. Nice work on that thing, moved so fast I have yet to even begin installing the motor I got from you!

Wow, good site man so much for sale there. Thanks!

Getting ready to drop in the L28et and need to get rid of the old warn 4 speed. I've had no luck finding local ones. If it is located in SoCal I may be able to pickup, otherwise please include price of shipping to 91950 CA. Thanks

It looks weird. I think if you want to darken them maybe try those tinted headlight covers.