Mayolives

My apologies for this slow response. I found a set of low back seats locally. Thank you for the responses.

I would like to replace my 79 ZX high back seats with low backs. I will have them recovered so the color and condition is not a big deal, as long as the frames and hardware is in good shape. I would think that any year seats will fit, as long as they are from a ZX car. Post a message or contact me at 843 450 6512.

Thanks for reading my post above. I guess the hybridz gods were smiling down on me this morning. There is a new and simple way to reset passwords. I received an email where my new password was entered and it works perfectly! I'm now up and running again! How about that!

I have a 73, parts car and most likely have what you need. If I have it, I'll give it to you. Just pay shipping. But I'm not exactly sure what you need. Give me a buzz at 843 450 512. (Tom B.)

I like the gunmetal gray idea and believe it will provide good contrast to the rest of the engine color and bling. Problem is........I can't fine anyone who offers this color. I've checked with about all the big name engine paint people and have come up empty. Any ideas?

After refurbishing my factory tank, as I discussed in a previous post, I've discovered that my pick line is completely clogged up. I've tried applying heat and have attempted to rams wires into the tube to no avail. My new engine build will have a Holley carburetor and Holley Red fuel pump. Although, from previous experience, I know that the stock fuel supply line would work with the 390 Holley I'll be running, I'm going to install a 3/8" or dash six supply and return line. Holley recommends this as the maximum size for my setup and the size needed if the engine was upgraded in the future to make big hp. The new lines will be installed in the same position that the stock lines were located. Also, my car does not have a reserve tank. I thought that I would use the larger vent tube, located on the top of the tank on the filler hose end, to vent to the atmosphere. I'll probably plumb it to the area where the gas cap is located. Will this one vent be adequate? Is there any good reason why I can't just "cap off" all the remaining tubes on the tank and just have my new supply, return and single vent lines?

I need both tail light assemblies, left and right, or as Nissan describes them, combination Lamp assemblies, for my 73 240. Both red lenses are broken. Please PM me or call at 843 450 6512. (Please leave message and I will respond)

Easy------Peezy....................I removed the motor mount bolts then jacked the engine up a few inches. After I removed all the pan bolts, I had to reach between the block and the pan, remove the two bolts that secure the oil pick-up, and then was able to remove the pan. I have the AZ pan and don't know how this would work with the stock Nissan pan. Having to replace the pick-up bolts was a bit of a challenge. It just took a little patience. But really not that difficult.

I have a pair. PM me or 843 450 6512. (Tom)

After owning and playing with many Z cars since the early eighty's, I never thought that I would be the one who would ask for input pertaining to engine color choices. But here goes. I'm in a rut and have been pondering over this for at least the past week. As my years passed, I've painted a number of engines, and have stuck with Datsun blue or matched the exterior color of the body that was to receive the engine. My new engine build is about ready for paint and installation into my silver, (#901) 73, 240. The car is very nice and straight with new brakes, bushings, struts, bearings, lowered, wheels, tires, all new interior and lots of goodies for the race shop built motor. Somehow, the Datsun blue color just isn't speaking to me and matching the silver body color would have virtually no contrast to the Aluminum engine parts. I have thought about painting it black, but I'm not convinced. And I say, "Who better to ask, other than my Z car "peps", when asking for aesthetic advice? This Z car won't be a grocery-getter nor a race car. But it should be a respectable, Japanese hot rod. Any input, any advice that will help me past my color choice dilemma, would be a "god send" and will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for your respected thoughts and opinions.

I forgot to mention one important step that I did when I refinished my gas tank. After I completed all my wire brushing work, I poured a gallon of Evapo-rust into the tank and left It cover all sides of the tank by moving it into several different positions. I tried to cover all the areas for at least eight hours each in order for the Evapo-rust to do it's thing. The inside of my tank is now, virtually rust free and really looks good!

This post is an update to my questions pertaining to gas tank options for my 73 240. Hopefully this post will inspire others who are faced with gas tank problems. After researching my options I discovered they were going to be time consuming and expensive. I really didn't want to have a cell protruding into my rear deck area because one of my cars has this setup and filling the tank through an open deck lid is a pain in the ass and a spillage problem just waiting to happen. The best retrofit was probably the early 2000, Camaro tank but that too involved fabrication. So with the help of a cut-off blade, several types of wire wheels, wire brushes, a few different sized scrappers, and lots of elbow grease, my problem is solved. I cut two rectangular holes in the top of the tank, one upper and one lower. Both on the flat areas where I could stay away from the factory bends/creases on the tank. The upper cut was about 5" X 8" and the lower one was about 5" by 10" . Both allowed access with my cordless drill motor and hand wire brushes and flat scrappers. I filled the tank with water before cutting to stay alive and left the tank dry out before I started the cleaning process. This was a nasty, very dusty job that required breathing through a dust and particle mask. Finally after about four hours of fun, I have the interior of the tank, though pitted. showing shinny metal work that is ready for welding the two pieces that were removed, back onto the top of the tank. After which I will use the Por 15 Tank Sealing process to completed my work. So for about $100, and not spending at least five times that for the other tank options, I have a tank that looks great and should last for a long time. Long live the Z car, TB.

I'm finishing the interior on my 240 and had counted on purchasing a rear speaker enclosure from MSA. Today I was told they are no longer available. I could fabricate one but my plate is really full. Does anyone know of a source for a rear enclosure for a pair of 6 X 9 speakers?

I've been reading too much about sound deadening materials and I now need some advice. Prices are all over the place for this material but I don't want to break the bank. My 240 floors are stripped, repaired and painted with POR 15 and are ready to be covered with sound/heat deadening material. I'm not dealing with a big audio system, just trying to keep the noise and heat at bay. Any recommendations from someone who has purchased and installed this type of material recently?

They finally came loose! Lots of heat, penetrating stuff and yanking did the track. Nearly tore the top of my work bench loose under my vice, but it will survive. Can't wait to tackle the rear ones.

I am in need of a new tank to replace my 240's, rusted beyond repair, fuel tank. I was reading post's about new fuel tank options just a few days ago. Someone posted the name of a company that offered a new tank that was reasonably priced that included an in tank pump and a return set-up, etc but I have been unable to find that post again. I believe the company name was a first name than the word "tanks", like "johnstanks.com". Can anyone point me in the right direction?

Give me a buzz if you still need the TS switch. Tom 843 450 6512

I have new Eiback springs and KYB struts for my 73 240Z. They didn't include bump stops. Do I need them?

I'm using KYB. I didn't know that oil wasn't required. So they are self cooled? I guess that solves my problem. Thanks!

I'm having a real problem removing the strut, gland nut from my 73 240. I've tried a large wrench and a pipe wrench and have only managed to "chew up" the gland nut's flat surfaces and bend it. I suspect my only remedy now is to heat it with a torch but I'm concerned that I will destroy the "O" ring. It's been years since I've done this job and I can't remember exactly what the "O" ring looks like. My FSM doesn't describe the "O" ring or at least I can't find a description of it. Is it a common "O" ring that can be purchased or is it a real special type that is now, NLA? I sure would like some advice because I'm dead in the water until I can remove the nut.

Perfect....,Thank you, TB.

In both "cars" and "parts" for sale sections I have a message that says " You Cannot Start A New Topic". Why can't I post in these sections? I've been a member for many years. Have I done something wrong?

Best listen to the advice pertaining to rust issues. Find a Z with as little rust as you can. They are out there! Take your time. Read as much here on this site and get a good understanding about these cars and you will be able to make a smarter purchase when you are ready. Welcome aboard newbie!

After an extensive search for good information pertaining to better ways to control sound and heat in the S30, I think this site has given me a good understanding. https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

I have many FSMs but not the 83. I've searched the 82 but can't find a check procedure. Could you shed a little light on the subject?