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danman

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  1. Update to finsh everything, installed and tested calipers and master cylinder upgrade, works well. Made spacers under my friend's supervision on a lathe and drill press. We built in a shoulder on the side that faces the rotor, which centers the spacer against the rotor. The side that faces the hub has an internal step which centers on the hub. (Note we had to cut an angle at each internal step on the hub side to match the slope the hub makes.) My friend is very smart guy, and I had a great time doing all the work on the lathe. I wanted to drive away with new brakes, so we did the bolt holes the quick, semi-accurate way. He used a marking liquid and laid the rotor against the spacer. He then scribed the holes, eyeballed the center punching, then off to the drill press. Always secure your part before drilling. Stepped up a few times to right size. Wouldn't fit just right, stepped up to next size drill bit on good set, meaning not much bigger than bolt. Used grade 8 bolts, 40mm long if I remember, not sure of pitch number, but course thread for sure. Rotor spacer was faced to .375, that was not enough, rotor rubbed on caliper. Faced spacer down to .355, just right! I am very good at taking my hub on and off now with all that mock up. Used a master cylinder off a 1979-1981 280ZX if I rember, anyway it should say 15/16 on the side, and my Raybestos one came with fancy reservoir caps with the uh, oh I don't have any brake fluid sensor. We put those away for when I rewire the car and install a light along with everything else. Side note first box had wrong part in right box, didn't figure that out till master cylinder bottles leaked at the cracks reman worker put in reservoir bottles. Also check that the master cylinder bottle retaining rings are not screwed too high, thus cracking the bottles, as the previous Raybestos rebuilding expert had done. Very strange, usually have good luck with Raybestos stuff, not this time. Brakes seem good, have yet to put them to the 120 to 65 test though. Need to find better pads for track day, some day when the car is ready for it. You can see pictures of my spacer in my album. I would recommend you buy them from one of the many vendors that make them or support your local machine shop, most people don't have the equipment to make them. It is also quite a bit of hours in front of the lathe. I learned a lot though and had a great time. Except for the fancy lathe and drill press everything else can be done in the street if needed, if you buy the spacer from the different guys that sell the spacer on the internet. They had their project car on the lift, so I had to do it in the driveway on a jack, with a hammer and a wrench to get off the caliper bolts, because the impact gun wouldn't fit. Used a hammer screwdriver to take off dust shields, vise grips would have worked too. Just saying a little imagination can overcome tool availability. Panasport 16" cleared with room to spare, no issue of making wheel spacer. Another side note, I called my boss after I went to the machine shop to find some aluminum and worked out my schedule so I could apprentice over at the machine shop an hour or two after work each day. The guys at the shop let me stop by each day and work/learn to make items. I get to sneak my own projects in now and again. This place is awesome, every machine you could want to make things. I am making a half inch stainless exhaust flange and got to use the biggest drill press I have ever seen. It drilled my 2" hole with a huge bit after a few steps up, then got to learn about a boring bar on the mill to bring it out to 2 1/4", they don't have a 2 1/4 bit funny enough, 2 1/2", but not what I needed, or he wanted to show me how to use a boring bar. Machinists are really cool people, these two brothers have been machining since 1950 or so, the happiest guys in the world. I am very lucky to know them and the father/son team that helped me make the spacer and install it as well. Thanks to everyone who posted, keep the Z's alive!
  2. danman

    260ZXT

  3. Thanks again for the info. Looks like I really need to mock it up and do the last face of my spacer once we measure. I dig the grade 8 spacers. I bought four pieces of 6" diameter 1" thick 6061-T6 aluminum from a local machine shop for $15 each piece. I then pulled the hub off my 1971 (really a 1970 sold in 1971) 240Z. It had late model 280 hubs. I pulled my early 260Z wheels and it has round hubs. 240 may have been in accident? Anyway went to friend's house who has the monster garage with the mill and lathe. They tried to hole saw center hole, bad idea, almost killed themselves when a wrench holding the chuck tight launched itself across the room. I am their saftey officer, I wasn't around of course for the first one. Next three we did the safe slow way. We drilled a hole in the center, then brought in a bit and slowly but surely after many passes I opened the center hole to 77mm. We then went in 10mm at 81mm diameter so the spacer will center and key onto the hub. We then faced that side. After three hours I had four rotor spacers with 77mm/81mm holes. Now I wait, my friend has a small hobby mill with digital read out so he can locate my four holes. Then when I get that back we will mock up the brakes and get our measurement. Then we need to face the last side down to the right thickness. This was my first experience with a lathe, so it was a lot of fun. After three hours the lathe auto feed gear seized on the shaft, broke part of the case open. So after lunch I got my first lathe repairman lesson. I took apart the machine under my friends guidance and we pressed off the gear, sanded the shaft, lubed it for the first time in twenty years, welded the case back together and off we went. Only about a 1.5 hr. delay. I will post pictures of the final product when my friend drills the four hub bolt holes. Hope to have it done in a few weeks, we only meet every two weeks to work on cars and his 1970 Mustang with a 2003 Cobra motor takes precidence over my project. Thanks for all the help
  4. Thanks Trevor, I just wanted to clarify something. "you will need a .350/.375 spacer" Did that mean the late model 260Z hub will require a .350 spacer and the 280Z hub will require a .375 spacer? Thanks again. This site is great. Nowhere can you find so many different helpful people. Thanks to everyone who posts and shares knowledge.
  5. I am doing the 1995 Toyota 4x4 V6 caliper with the 1984 300zx vented rotor. I have a 240Z and a 260Z. I understand there is a difference between the two hubs so both spacer measurements would be great. I need to buy some aluminum to take over to my friends house to machine the spacer and don't want to waste material/$. Thank you in advance. Daniel
  6. Sounds like your car is in limp home mode. Check Afshin's post on fitting Z31 MAF to L-28 it gives wire colors and computer pin numbers. Mine turned out to be wired incorrectly the MAF wasn't getting +12v on ignition. Send me message if you still can't figure out. Check and clean connections first then check continuity of wires, then think about new MAF sensor.
  7. Thanks for the info. I called them and they said NISMO style. Funny the website doesn't say NISMO style. They should crack down on all these knock off's. Thanks again, I think I'll go B & M.
  8. So even though it says NISMO it is not genuine Nissan?
  9. I did not realize it is not short throw. I saw this one on k2 website it is called a short throw and looks different from your picture. Do you think its the same? Great price too at $105.00 http://store1.yimg.com/I/yhst-5006790027353_1851_163183 or http://www.k2motor.com/nissan17.html Thanks again for everybodys replies.
  10. Thanks for the info. Interesting idea there, but at $1,000 I'll pass. I know B & M makes a good quality shifter, but the NISMO one looks real cool too, just need to find source other than dealer. The dealer wanted over $300 for NISMO shifter. Anyone running with a NISMO short shifter? Thanks for the replies.
  11. Hi everyone, I just fininshed installing a 1991 240SX transmission into a 1977 bell housing and got it installed in car. Everything runs great, but I would like a good short shifter. I see that B & M as well as NISMO make short shifters. What is everyone else running and how do they like it? Thanks. By the way at least on a 1977 4 speed case the reverse lights will no longer work correctly, they stay on always so I disconnected. I need to mark where the sensor fits through and machine the shift fork when I take the transmission apart again someday, until then no reverse lights.
  12. Hello everyone, I am putting in a dual friction centerforce this weekend. I need people's opinions. Should I resurface existing flywheel or buy an aluminum one? Guy at motorsport recomended I just resurface steel one. Thought turbo would not spool up as well with lightweight. I have also heard that hill climbing is hard with lightweight flywheel. 1983 ZXT, intercooled, adjustable boost, fuel injectors, 300ZX MAF and computer. Any suggestions and personal experience would be most helpful. Thanks Daniel
  13. Big opps on the accelerator pedal under the carpet. lol. I got dash out today and car still started. (and was there was much celebration) What a mess the wiring is. I really have my work cut out for me. I think I will have to go dashless forever because I don't see getting all that mess back together. Nice custom cluster for that race look maybe. It will fit in great with the street legal race car plan I am going for. If it is not needed for the car to run yank it out is my motto. I am going for 2,000 lbs and 300+ at the wheels. This will put me in Ferrari F430 territory as far as HP to weight.
  14. Thank you for your reply. I forgot to mention that I already ran the code pulling procedure as written on Z31 website. The method of switching the computer thru the different modes is an adjuster screw. The problem is there is no tactile imput when you change from one mode to the other or when the computer has been returned to normal opperating condition. The fact that both lights should be on when driving is very helpful though. If indeed both lights are on when computer has been returned to normal opperation then I was running my car in testing mode after I pulled the codes oops. If that was the problem I will be so happy. Will turn on car tommorow morning. The neighbors will be thrilled I'm sure. I have my dash just about completely removed, was ready to start really messing things up. By the way dash removal is no fun, always seems to be another screw holding it in.
  15. I pulled engine codes off my computer. The instructions say to note original position of test selector screw then turn test selector screw counter-clockwise. My computers selector screw was already turned all the way counter-clockwise. Where is screw supposed to be adjusted for normal driving? I turned key to on but did not start and turned screw clockwise till the red and green lights turned off. I am thinking maybe my lean condition may be caused by not putting computer back into correct mode. Instructions mention car will not run correctly unless test selector is in correct position. Please help. Thanks
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