namz7791

Any input on which of the 2 that you have is better? Thanks,

I am in the market for a plasma cutter and you can get some of the knock-off cutters from Ebay for under $400. Has anyone ever tried one of these and do they work? I expect that they wont last as long as a name brand but can buy 3 of them for the price of the name brand. Thanks

I have a 77 280Z with a 355 Chevy and T5 set up. I am currently running Patriot sidepipes on the car. The engine has a mild cam (Comp 270H grind) so it has a noticeable idle. The car is in the garage to get the body work done this winter. I had to move it the other day with out the side pipes hooked up and MAN! what a different sounding engine ( and no, not just louder!). The lopey idle became very noticeable with just the headers and about a 1' section of tubing. When the side pipes are on the cam is no where near as distinct. Finally my question: If I replace the approximately 3' long straight thru muffler in the side pipes with a shorter one, keeping the diameter the same (3") will this help the sound of the idle to be more noticeable? or is it strictly related to the length of the pipe and changing the muffler length will not have any affect? Thanks to all who reply.

The hood is from betamotorsports and really looks great! I emailed them and they indicated that I needed to make plates similar to the factory plates and should install threaded inserts in the hood itself in the area where the hinges attach. They didn't have any photos to send me so I could see what they meant. So any photos of actual installs would really help.

Just got my fg cowl hood for my 280Z. It is set up to attach to the factory hinges. Does anyone have any photos of the steel plates required to go between the hood and factory hinges. Help would be greatly appreciated!

Excuse me should be TBI or was a throttle body engine.

Hey guys. Alot of stuff on CA emissions in the search mode. Wasnt able to find anything regarding Las Vegas. I have a job opportunity in Las Vegas and currently own a 77 280Z with a Chevy 350 in it which doesn't have any of the smog stuff on it. Engine was out of an 88 Suburban with TPI and now is carburated and such. Any one know the rules in Nevada or maybe a link to the state site that I could search on? Thanks in advance.

Hood looks great! Do you have a web site for the manufacturer? What about cost and fitment? Do you know if you can get it without the side vents?

Mike, Thanks for the info. The picture didn't come thru though - just says image by some web site. Please try the pic again. Also, what fuel pump did you go with? Thanks

Yep - I have a filter between the tank and the pump. I talked directly to Holley and they indicated that the pump does have a thermal overload device built into the pump. Since the pump worked again a little while later they think that the pump is ok it just overheated. Low fuel flow to the pump is usually the culprit. I mounted the pump in the same location as the Z stock pump. I am wondering if I am not getting enough gravity feed to the pump when the tank gets around half full since the line has to go up and over the half shaft. Does any one have a better way or place to mount these pumps to ensure constant flow? Thanks!

I was on my way to work this morning when my 77 Z decided to die at a red light. It didn't take long to notice that my fuel pump was not buzzing merrily along even with my primer switch. After sitting on the side of the road for about 10 to 15 minutes the pump started working again and I continued my journey to work. I have had the car on the road for a month now and have had no fuel pump operating issues, but on my test drives I was driving the Z pretty hard and using the fuel up. On my way to work I was in traffic so just drove casually along. My pump is the Holley red, does anyone know if they have some sort of built in thermal protection that shuts them down if they start to overheat when fuel is not passing thru as fast as required? I do not have a return line - should I put one in to keep the pump pumping and not use its internal regulator? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for the info everyone! I have exhausted the bleeding route and wish to pursue the longer rod approach. What are you guys using for a longer rod on the slave? or does someone manufacture these? Any insite will be greatly appreciated. Thanks again!

On my 77 280Z I used the JTR kit and installed a Tilton 7/8" master cylinder and am using the stock slave cylinder off a 89 Camaro T5 set up. I cut 3/8" off the rod per the JTR manual and installed. My problem is the clutch is basically at the floor. It releases fine but is a pain to drive with it so near the floor. I used the stock clevis from the Z and the rod is only a few threads into the nut welded on the clevis. I cannot get the pedal to release higher up since I am out of rod. If I screw the rod into the nut any further the clutch will not release all of the way. Has anyone else ran into this? I was thinking about using a longer clevis or a longer rod off of the slave cylinder. I have bled and bled the system and just do not get any more air. Looks like I should have not shorted the rod per the book. How did the rest of you T5ers handle this? Thanks in advance!

Thanks Mike I appreciate all of the great support the moderators on this site provide

Hi Mike, That is not the picture. when I go to Photo album and hit General Photos and then sort on date with the "+" or ascending order the picture comes out on page 61. It is now 722 of 723 as someone has just added a picture of a drag racing Z. Thanks again for your help It is a white Z car drivers side shot from back to front.