shri2222

Thanks everyone, I got the drum off. I looked again for the adjuster opening, nothing, felt were it should be was sunken in but something hard not rubber was blocking it. I then stuck the wheel back on and tried to use it's leverage to break the drum free, that worked for a half a turn. I then took a hammer and hammered up from the cooling fins of the drum to work it loose, took some time but off it came. The self adjuster was caked in brake dust, grime and rust. Remembered why I hated drum brakes, and bought a the brackets to maxima conversion now.

Great thanks for all the great advise I'll be giving it another go in a few days will let yall know how it turns out.

Hey all, I was looking for some advice. My rear drums worked perfectly till one day the driver rear locked up. I can not get it free. I cracked the line loose to release any fluid pressure, nothing, i tapped it with a mallet, nothing. I am new to drums, I honestly hate them. I felt along back for a opening looking to maybe move the self adjuster but I needed feel any opening top or bottom. Thanks, Shri

I need the larger 77-78

Hello I'm am looking for a steering column surround in fairly good shape for a 280. Thanks!

Also to add if you are running a after market T04 you will need to buy a 90degree coupler , and if you are using a KA TB you will also need that coupler. PS ignore the backwards stabilizer bar, my friend thought he'ed help when I wasn't around..

I bought it, I installed it, fit with a little difficulty manipulating the pipping, no cutting to the kit was done. The angle of the intake pipe will be difficult to align and will take some time to allow the couplers to absorb the slight angle discrepancy between the 280zx and the S30. This can be fix by cutting and adding an additional coupler joint on the passenger side 90 at the rad support. Also note I am using a TB spacer so my TB is pushed forward about an inch. You will need to open up the wholes on the brackets that hold the intercooler, and cut and remove the lip on the rad support for the fan shroud on the 76-78s. Drilling is 4 holes into the rad support. The lower intercooler brackets may need to be hammered to fit the different pitch of the intercooler, as you can see the top sits more forward than the bottom, you can push it out from bellow but I like the angle as it allowed me room for my oil cooler. Quality is ok, you will also need to re-drill the bov flange because the bolt holes aren't spaced properly.

Thanks Tbcrow for posting pictures, It is a bit rougher than I would like, that said, I'm going to hold off till say Friday, if nobody has anything cleaner, i'll take it.

Wizzurp if you change your mind let me know, and Tbcrow,do you have a picture of the condesor?

I bought one ebay, but the seller never shipped it, and I had to file a claim. That was the only one I had found. I found some reconditioned ones, but I figured in that case I'll see if any used good condition ones are availible.

Hello, I am looking for a clean as close to mint A/C Condener for a 280z if anyone has one let me know thanks. -Shri

Hello, I was curious if anyone is running the CXRacing FMIC kit for the S130 on a S30? If so how is the fitment and what is your opinion of it? I have used CX cores in the past on a WRX with success so was curious of their L28 option. -Shri

I need a throttle linkage off a 280z , the rear section asap! My idiot friend threw out my old intake manifold with that part still attached. Will Paypal immediately. Post how much and paypal email in msg

Wow allot of great information Gollum how beneficial is running a fuel cooler, especially on a street car that will see rare track days? This is a new concept to me I've never look into much.

I will have 7hrs of dyno time in addition to break in time. I have dual widebands. The tuning shop is very reputable, they will start at the baseline 8psi to break in the motor once they build a map. My concern is they tune and tune with good afr's up to 18ish psi all looking well and crack a ring from heat or have to much knock, since there is no knock sensor its hard to gauge. I want to add a knock sensor, but I don't know what others have used and place it

I'll see what it does as we increase the boost up form the baseline. BigPhil did 388 -403 tq @25psi with a l28et with a 2mm h.g. very low 7.00:1 compression on a better flowing p90. his video with the bad waistgate and street tune If i run 14psi with my higher compression 8.13:1 hopefully I can get close to 350whp my tq should be pretty high I would assume

Lazeum, yes the head is a stock N42 just with double valve springs and turbo cam. I had intent to port the head, but that budget fell threw when I was told by the machine shop the motor needed to be bored out. I had matched the turbo to my rpm and cams when I decided to go that route, even spoke to the cam manufacture for their best advised cam for the GT35 to match with the revs I can run. I have my AFR covered, I have dual widebands, one hard wired to the ecu, the other to a auxiliarygauge.

Thanks for the input . Knock is exactly what i'm concerned about. My stand alone has provision for a knock sensor. I'm going to look into see if I can add one before I go to the dyno. VEMs is similar to Megasquirt, anyone know about any types of knock sensors I might be able to use?

Hey, I am looking for some advice from someone with more experience them myself with turbo l28s How high on boost do you think I should go given the list of mods below on pump gas? I ask because I can't afford to blow this motor up and I have seen the results of many with a conventional f54/p90 setup but nothing much on a n42. I do have a goal of 350whp but safety at this point is more important. I was planing on running 16-18psi.. Am I to close to the threshold? Motor: N42 block +0.030 over 0.75 ITM over sized dished pistons (the engine was bored little over spec, to compensate expansion) Molly rings Balanced crank ARP rod bolts ARP head bolts Commetic 1.5 (.060) Head gasket L28et oil pan L28et oil pump Head is N42 Double valve springs Molly retainers 276 turbo cam Compression ratio calculated to 8.13:1 N42 Intake manifold KA24 t.b. stock log l28et turbo manifold GT35 turbo external regulator with 8psi spring 600cc Fuel injectors 255 Walbero pump z32 fuel filter Custom fuel rail LS1 coil on plug setup Dist deleted. FMIC Big 1 quart oil cooler 3-Row aluminum rad 12" cooling fans X2 Exhaust is custom 3" turbo back strait through 3" muffler Computer is VEMs stand alone running 4-bar MAP V.R. cam and crank signal

I got my tokico's at work, but not from work... I work at Advance as a commercial parts guy, I had my Z at work and I someone drove by and then came by. He had a Z and had a falling out with the body shop, he had boxes and boxes of new Z parts so i bought a few things off of him.

They fit on without cutting and welding? I'm gonna buy them if you have good luck, I have tokico llumina's new in a box with tokico springs, but i'ed love to go lower then a inch.