Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Donations

    0.00 USD 
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

  • Feedback


Gollum last won the day on December 15

Gollum had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

26 Excellent

About Gollum

  • Rank
    Tree Killer
  • Birthday 07/07/1987

Contact Methods

  • AIM
  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Vacaville, CA
  • Interests
    Cars, Computers, Guitars, anything that makes music, or goes fast, or goes fast while making music!

Recent Profile Visitors

7451 profile views
  1. Gollum

    removing exhaust liners?

    And then take a tig to the port to build it back up...
  2. Gollum

    Home Built Z 'Full video build'

    Don't lie @cgsheen, you just find it as hilarious as I do watching Jeff perform the same job 3 times. 😂
  3. Gollum

    simplicity and reliability, Grip vs Drift

    Dude, update your thread! So to all: I got to see the car up close last weekend. Marshall has one of the best sorted S130's I've seen in person. Not exactly pretty, but mechanically speaking he's heading the right direction on all fronts. The work he's done reverse engineering the ECCS alone deserves a freakin' award, so hopefully some of you think twice before knocking a "drift scene kid's build". Honestly, I'm betting he'd lay down better track times right now than my S30 would, and I've probably got.... 350+lbs advantage on him. Keep up the good work. Maybe one of these days the S130 will be worth something...
  4. Gollum

    Base model 280zx project

    So, any updates? I'm curious to see the status, and if you have any updated weights as the car sits now. I still always find it funny (in a good way) when S130's end up lighter than a lot of people's S30's. Keep the updates rollin'!
  5. Gollum

    Persephone '81 280ZX

    I guess I should subscribe to my old car's thread, especially since I gently suggested that you weren't allowed to scrap it. ...Seeing all the rust hidden away, if it were a T-Top I'd be HELPING you scrap it...
  6. Gollum

    Home Built Z 'Full video build'

    Yeah, better to find that issue now before the combo is in the engine bay. Also: No issue with the longer transmission bolts. There's miles of room. Hardcore circuit racers have put the engine more than 3" further back without firewall modifications. Also: I usually keep engine leveler cranks pointing towards the front engine engine, since it can end up interfering with the firewall as you get the engine deep into the bay, but conversely if the angle ends up being really high, then the crank can end up conflicting with the hoist. Pick your poison. Another tip on that though that if the crank is facing forward your can use an electric drill to drive it and save some sweat.
  7. Gollum

    Gollum's DD L28ET 75'

    Yeah, I need to remove my seats to be sure, but when I put them back in not that long ago I don't remember noticing any major rust. I'll likely just end up doing some patching. As far as a welder, thanks for the offer. Someone else also offered me long-term borrowing of a flux core so we'll see how that works out. I also have a neighbor willing to let me bring the car over to do some welding, but that would mean needing to have a set of patches fitting and ready. If I have a welder handy, I'm going to also go about plugging the corner light holes, maybe cleaning up the rear bumper area, etc. So having a few winter months to peck away at the problem might be ideal.
  8. Gollum

    Gollum's DD L28ET 75'

    It really is hard to imagine it being MORE work to just replace the whole pan from the right edge of the faux rail to the rocker and from the firewall to the seat rail. There's definitely some decent pitting in other unmarked areas but they seem solid enough that I'd be happy with a rust converter and some paint. But after patching those four sections I'll have already done a fair bit of metal shaping and welding.
  9. Gollum

    Gollum's DD L28ET 75'

    Well, in his defense, expanding urethane foam can be pretty "solid" stuff! I'm not all that upset, and it's not like I ever felt this was a completely rust free car... It's just a "well I guess this is the state of things". The front chassis ears where the hood hinges mount are all rusted out, my fenders have rust in the rocker area. and there's other mild signs of rust elsewhere. My interest in digging into the problem is low, largely because I don't have welding equipment (yet), and no interest in fixing for the sake of "pretty". That said, if I'm going to work on a part of the car, I might as well do what I can while I'm in there.
  10. Gollum

    Gollum's DD L28ET 75'

    So my battery still needed some work to be mounted a bit more "properly" compared to how I had it last time I was daily driving this car. My "long term" goal was to square out the passenger foot well and make a little enclosure for it with panel mount terminals. This would make it racing body legal, but also putting the weight as low as possible, while being between the wheels. I'm not a huge fan of putting the battery up high in the back, as I don't NEED more weight in the back per se, since I can always tune the front/back grip with the same measures it'd take to balance the car if I put all the weight in the back. Anyway, I'm rambling. So I still had a ton of dynamat on the floorpans from a PO (I think it was hybridz member FlatBlack or it had to have been before him even maybe). I didn't want to look at even a temporary riveted or bolted in solution for a tray in the eventual battery space to be with the crap in the way. Well, so I got to removing the dynamat... and just.... yeah. Nice hole up in the top right of the image, and I have to wonder if dynamat was intended to just hide rust that someone didn't want to repair. I haven't had the car stored outside, I've never seen/had standing water in the floor... Yet... Healthy rust, growing like mold in a forgotten fridge. And to add some insult to the mix, I confirmed a suspicion that my floors weren't exactly flat. And after some more grinding (flap disk) , more sound deadening removal, and more grinding (flat disk), and the some pounding, I have a more flat floor, and a heavy desire to go buy a wire wheel for the angle grinder. All my existing wire wheels are for drills or die grinders. Which, I guess I could use the die grinder with a wire wheel, I'd just be running the compressor pretty hard for a few hours to get this really cleaned up. So, I'm really tempted to wire wheel the rest of the rust away, cut and weld the minimal spots, spray on some weld-through primer, and build a temporary battery mount where I want it to end up. That "temporary" solution is likely kicking the can down a year or two at the rate I've been going this last year, but I think I'm okay with that. I'm not building this to sell, or for someone else. And I'm not going to be competing in it anytime soon. I'm going to be driving it, putting miles on it, to work, to play, etc. I'm mostly just interested in "safe" and "don't lose objects to the road through the floor" status.
  11. Gollum


    Try finding him on Facebook. He's in several of the Datsun parts groups. He's definitely still around and still making fuel rails.
  12. Gollum

    Gollum's DD L28ET 75'

    I'm not sure why I thought it was a good idea, but I went ahead and made my own hood pins. I doubt I "saved" money even if my time was free, since I'm likely going to go buy a kit of clips to replace my temporary clip solution. The pins themselves turned out okay, and the hood fitment is passable. My lower pin placement ended up spot on which is great since they'll take the brunt of the lifting load, but the rear's I didn't take my time with enough and I ended up putting my holes in about 1/4" or more too high (towards the windshield. This caused a lot more work than necessary getting it to fit decently, and larger holes than preferable, but I'm not sure I really care as long as it stays on tight. Also spent time yesterday mounting my own tires on my wheels. Not exactly fun, but with decent manual tools it's not too painful (even the harbor freight stand isn't the worst thing in the world). Reason I ended up doing this myself is because though my tires I had already looked fantastic, had been out of the sun in a garage their whole life, and never under extreme temperatures, they were more than 6 years old (close to 10 years actually) and thus no shop in the area wanted to touch them. I don't plan on doing any competitive racing on them, or any serious street shenanigans, but they'll likely be fine for daily driving for a year or two, which is all as long as I need them to last. I ordered speed bleeders because I still felt my brakes were a bit mushy and wanted to be able to bleed them myself with confidence. Boy do these things work great! I can't say enough about them. Lucky me with the S13 rear brakes I use the same bleeder on all four corners which is handy, and once installed I was able to bleed my brakes myself in about 5 minutes. Granted, the car was already on stands with all four wheels off, but you get the picture.
  13. Gollum

    Gollum's DD L28ET 75'

    Car's running pretty good, despite tuning without a wideband for the tine being. I'm still regularly tidying little things up, and it's coming along. I've got the wheels in my car so I can drop them at the tire shop later today with my "new" (been sitting in the garage forever) tires to be mounted. That's a huge milestone to making the thing driveable. I also need to attach the hood, and I ditched the front brackets a long time ago, so hood pins it is. You might say it's because I'm cheap, but I think it's also due to just wanting to get something done and not bother with buying something, I'm making my own hood pins. I think the bolts are old LCA bolts. They're plenty strong enough in any case, and I've got all four mounted on the chassis side. Now I just need to cut them down enough so I can rest the hood in place and get some marks to drill. Once tires and hood are on, I'm going to do a quick alignment, put the air dam on, and she's pretty close to road worthy!
  14. Gollum

    280zx R&P from a 240z

    S30 is front steer, S130 is rear steer, so the rack moves opposite direction for a given input rotation. S30 has TC rods facing back, S130 has them facing forward. And while we might split hairs over what "structural part" means, it's true that most parts don't interchange. That said, when parting out S130's there's a pretty good pile of parts that are reusable on other cars.
  15. Gollum

    T3/T4 Turbo that spools like stock?

    Ahh, well if it's MORE money to get a difference housing then that's fine. I was thinking they'd be doing machining on the stock housing, the labor of which would far outweigh a new chunk of as-delivered aluminum out front. And they're right, the front compressor WHEEL is really where the meat and potatoes is, and why the stock T3 starts hitting a brick wall long before 300whp arrives.