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Gollum last won the day on August 31

Gollum had the most liked content!

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About Gollum

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    Tree Killer
  • Birthday 07/07/1987

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    Vacaville, CA
  • Interests
    Cars, Computers, Guitars, anything that makes music, or goes fast, or goes fast while making music!

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  1. Gollum

    280zx R&P from a 240z

    S30 is front steer, S130 is rear steer, so the rack moves opposite direction for a given input rotation. S30 has TC rods facing back, S130 has them facing forward. And while we might split hairs over what "structural part" means, it's true that most parts don't interchange. That said, when parting out S130's there's a pretty good pile of parts that are reusable on other cars.
  2. Gollum

    T3/T4 Turbo that spools like stock?

    Ahh, well if it's MORE money to get a difference housing then that's fine. I was thinking they'd be doing machining on the stock housing, the labor of which would far outweigh a new chunk of as-delivered aluminum out front. And they're right, the front compressor WHEEL is really where the meat and potatoes is, and why the stock T3 starts hitting a brick wall long before 300whp arrives.
  3. Gollum

    T3/T4 Turbo that spools like stock?

    Yeah, that might sound like a good chunk of money for "only" a custom t3/t4 hybrid, but in the grand scheme that's money well spent and not a bad way to go. I'd also let Gpop know that you only care about keeping the turbine housing. If it's cheaper to use a whole T4 compressor side, then that's fine. That's assuming you're going to be running an intercooler and not the stock J-pipe. No sense in keeping the stock compressor housing unless it's a zero cost difference. That combo should make it to 300hp just fine though. I wouldn't expect to be able to push it worlds beyond that, but if you get hungry for more power then you can always sell it at a a mild loss once you're ready for a whole new turbo+dp setup.
  4. Gollum

    460ZGT Project Build

    I got all excited and was about to PM you saying "Hey I can stop by to see what stuff you have lying around you don't want to move!" but then realized you're not even in CA anymore! Man, I'm out of touch these days. Great progress btw. Car is looking great.
  5. I saw a patched together 240Z with a SBC at a "track" and for running old bald tires the thing was scary fast. I'd never taken notice of a datsun before, had no idea about the brand, the history, or what a "z" car was. (I was 13 at the time and had mostly worked on my neighbor's 10 second del sol when he needed a hand, and helped keep vehicles like the family GM pickup running giving my brother a helping hand and such). So I did what any good kid would do, I started researching. I quickly found out it was likely a 240Z I saw, and soon after found hybridz. I was memorized. Not by the cars, per say, but rather by the variety of builds/swaps. Dot's V12 just blew my mind. I wanted one, badly. This was a blank canvas of a car, relatively cheap, and can easily get away without paying ricer tax (even at this time I already had plenty of 1st and 2nd hand stories of cops treating imports differently than muscle cars). So I started saving pennies and watching the ads. By the time I was 15 and about to get my permit I'd realized that a clean pre smog S30 was slightly out of reach for me. CA still had a "rolling smog" law and so I figured I'd get one of the much cheaper S130's and while waiting for it to be pre-smog I'd focus on suspension, weight reduction, brakes, etc. It was a good plan. Right about my 16th birthday I bought a mint 1980 280ZX from it's original owner for $2200. It felt like way too much money to spend on a car, but this thing was perfect... except the ebrake which would stick... ...so after that car popped out of gear parked on a hill, and was killed by a tree (hence my nick here) I found a 1981 non-running for $500. The guy even towed it to me for that price. I swapped enough parts to get it running again, swapped a bunch of interior parts and watch the local yard come pick up my first car. In hindsight I wish I'd kept a lot more of that car... but I didn't have space. By this time, CA laws had changed and my future with S130's was screwed. No easy swaps for me. BAR swap laws were becoming well defined but stories of success in my circle of friends were still non-existent. I started shifting my gaze towards the turbo L option since it was relatively easy to legalize and/or finding a 280ZX turbo and use that car as a project base. After my '81 decided to punt it's head gasket I hunted for a turbo engine and found one here, on hybridz, from @rayaapp2. I think I paid him about $1500 for a '83 turbo 2+2 which had enough back fees I wasn't terribly interested in driving it as-is (note: big mistake). It was also a 2+2, which means no legal HOV lane usage with just me and a buddy (though folding the seats down I doubt a cop would have ever pulled me over and hassled me about it, but I also didn't like the corner glass window shape difference either). So I proceeded to swap engines over the course of a winter, outside, in the mud.... Easily one of the dumber things I've done. But I got it done. Getting the hoist in place was a valiant effort, and once the engine was in I started swapping the electrical, from car to car in it's entirety. I didn't want to splice the harness differences, since going to the blade fuses and other 82+ differences seemed worth the swap in my mind. After swapping it all, every system checked out, except the engine. Trying to start it would immediately result in a blown fusible link. I must have gone through a dozen fusable links trying to track down the culprit. By this time I was needed a car to start a new job, so my days of borrowing were coming to an end. I scrapped some money together and bought a friend's CRX with the promise to sell it back once I didn't need it. I didn't have much time to figure out the problem with the car, and I wasn't exactly motivated. I did eventually figure out that it was a misplaced ground near the distributor causing 12V to ground out. With the new victory came an immediate obstacle. I swapped the transmission with the engine, because my assumptions at the time were that the nissan 5 speeds just wouldn't be up to the task (another mistake). I brought the extra long 2+2 driveshaft to a few different local driveline shops and they all said the same thing: "I can't rebuild this because of the joint types, I'd have to make a new one", and the lowest quote was $900. Feeling a huge boulder of defeat, because I just couldn't justify spending that much more than I already had into the swap. Around this time the CRX transmission went out, the friend bought it back as agreed, and I was in need of a car again. Then the heavens parted, and angels cried out, and craigslist threw me a bone. I found a '75 already turbo swapped! And for a mere $1200 asking price. I called the guy, and picked it up the next morning after a quick test drive. I had to work that day, so I picked it up at around 6am and drove it to work the same day. I was ecstatic. And the rest, they say, is history. The tldr; summary: The S30 is a classically handsome car. Maybe not the most gorgeous, but not bad by and standard. It's a wonderful base that generally just works and is outrageously well balanced and tunable and there's plenty of examples of low powered S30's tearing it up on the track. Their potential is very much limited only by the builder. As I've gotten older, and maybe a bit wiser, I've started to realize that this potential aspect is true of most cars. Any engine can fit in any car, and you're only limited by your determination and skills. If you don't believe it, go watch project binky, then go buy some fabrication tools and make stuff. Even if it's bad, make stuff. The S30 does strike an unusual balance though, and for years was a poor man's Ferrari (GTO anyone?). Unfortunately, it feels like those days are gone. The S30's have skyrocketed in price, and the "good deal" I found on a $1200 S30 would today be "giving it away". Like @Leon if I was repeating my history today I likely would never have gotten into Z cars. But being in CA I wouldn't have ended up with an E36 like Leon, I'd likely have gone with the only OTHER lightweight presmog cars often on craigslist, British roadsters.
  6. Gollum

    T3/T4 Turbo that spools like stock?

    I stopped crying about turbo prices when I spent $2,200 to get a GOOD price on a genuine OEM turbo for my '05 Outback XT. It was far more important to me for it to be same turbo as OEM than making power and needing to tune it. I quickly realized I'm at the point in my life that I can just wait a few months and buy nice things instead of being so cheap all the time. ...that said I don't know that I even have more than 4k in my entire 280Z....
  7. Gollum

    T3/T4 Turbo that spools like stock?

    Shoot, I bet even the efr6758 would spool faster than the stock T3. Only downside is that you need to convert from the T3 outlet to either T25 or T4 or vband. The twin scroll (true twin scroll, not just divided, meaning has two separate AR's) T4 housing with a proper manifold would still likely spool faster than stock and that's an honest 500hp setup... Turbos have come a long way.
  8. Gollum

    T3/T4 Turbo that spools like stock?

    Sleeperz, I also plan on running very short wheels. I don't expect 1st to be useful other than getting off the line smoothly around town. I also plan to run a lightweight clutch/flyhweel combo, and again, first will be for tame street driving. With my planned setup, I don't think it'd be beyond reasonable to launch from 2nd at the drag strip, but that's not the venue I'm building the car for... As it is, with LESS power on the stock turbo with 3.54 gears, first was still went by extremely fast and useless in most scenarios.
  9. Gollum

    T3/T4 Turbo that spools like stock?

    Something to keep in mind, is that turbos HAVE gotten better over the years, and something designed and built in the 70's like these old T3's is at a huge disadvantage compared to something modern. My point is that with a goal in the high 200's low 300's range, the only way you'll be upset with spool is to buy a cheap $200 ebay turbo which will likely be a chinese copy of a 40 year old design. Spend a little more and get something modern, and you won't regret it. I'd also advise you to get something water cooled if you can stomach the additional install requirements, as it dramatically improves bearing life. When you shut down your engine, you end up with stagnant oil in the center section and it just heat soaks since the turbo is running much hotter than the oils (even at idle after driving). Water cooled turbos take advantage of "thermal siphoning" where as long as the hot water has a free place to go, as it heat soaks at engine shut off, the hot water will want to escape pulling cooling water into the turbo. Obviously turbos without water cooling are also designed around that, but most of the newer designs you want for better aerodynamic properties will also require water cooling to be set up properly. Also, while going to a small AR might spool the turbo sooner, and sound like a great idea, they can definitely be a bit top end limiting. Now, with the stock turbo head and camshaft, that's not much of a big deal since it's out of breath by 5500 anyway. But if you want to ever do any head work and/or swap the cam out and rev it up to 7k (and actually make good power up there( then you'll find a smaller AR turbine housing to be quite limiting. To put another dimension on the table, people love to talk about how increasing load allows a turbo to spool up faster, so turbos tend to like long (small number) gearing. Personally, I find this to actually be a counter-productive way to think about it, and leads you to build a turbocharged car that drives more like a diesel, and focusing on the wrong part of the power band. A turbo is a GAS based device that is extremely dependent on pressure ratios. Yes, thermodynamics play a role, and loading an engine will create heat and create spool. Drive a turbo charged car on the freeway and go up and incline and you'll see this. Most responsive setups are very hard to stay OUT of boost going up a hill at the same throttle position as you were going a stead speed an flat ground. But, if instead of relying on load to see boost "sooner in the RPM band" and going with short (high number) gearing, you're likely to find you spool "sooner" based on time. You get the revs of the engine up sooner, it's swallowing more air over time, pushing more air over time into the turbo, creating spool sooner. If going with longer gearing was better for turbos, why not UPSHIFT to go faster? It doesn't make sense. And in that vein, if you're going with a laggier turbo, you can make up SOME of the difference by going up in gearing. I plan on running 3.9 in my 280Z, and I'm at 3.545 now. And going back to the earlier point, if you're making great power up to 7k you're more than offsetting the difference....
  10. Another one people haven't mentioned, though its not done yet:
  11. @auxilary Is the expert on this topic. Not only has he done it, but he's the most forthcoming about the challenges. I loved to give him a hard time whenever I met him about it ever being on the road, and put up with the poking and prodding quite well. That said, from my recollection of conversations, he insisted that it was a very easy install, especially if you ditch the oil injection and convert to using premix. The factory turbo manifold puts the turbo in such a spot that fitment is extremely difficult, and he mentioned that any of the common top mounts would make mounting much easier. And aside from the ones mentioned, I think there's a few others floating around. It's amazing how many swaps are undocumented on the internet simply because the owner doesn't care about spending the time to post stuff on the internet.
  12. Gollum

    240Z Pro-Touring Build

    Note that the voodoo doesn't have traditional flat plane pin arrangements, and as such isn't significantly lighter than the cross plane crank for the 5.0. The reason Ford made the single plane for the GT350 was 100% about exhaust packaging, and alternating the firing order made it possible to fit exhaust that worked up to redline without modification to the chassis.
  13. Gollum

    Stock TB for 7000rpm, ~200whp?

    Realistically you should be fine. If you need to upgrade after completing the build and seeing top end roll off and you suspect throttle then convert to the KA throttle. Larger and easy to adapt. But I'm betting the stock TB won't be the limiting factor without serious headwork. That said, it's relatively easy to calculate engine displacement * 100% * RPM...
  14. Both of the first two pics you posted are the same all aluminum intake as what the 350z had. They just also have the plastic vanity cover that makes an engine not look like a "mess" to non-car folk. If you keep an L engine then EFI doesn't mean the engine bay can't be clean. To the contrary I'd say it's easier to maintain a clean look with EFI, but you certainly need to ditch a lot of the OEM design to it. I have ZERO focus on aesthetics with my car and it looks world's cleaner than that 280zx engine bay you posted.
  15. It all adds up, and I said less than 700. The real diff might be closer to 600. You have to consider that a lot changed over the years between the 240z and 280z. Added wiring alone is likely a 10-20lb weight gain. The moral of the attached story isn't so much that the later year cars are heavier, but rather should be that the weight if your car will be far more dependant on how you build it and what kind of creature comforts you want. I've driven a 71 240z that weighed over 2400lbs because the guy who restored it was running piles of sound deadener everywhere, AC and every feature original to the car. He was still running 240z suspension and the r180 diff, so add those and you'd be in 280z without bumpers territory.