pjo046

I have now bougth C/V-axles (might need another pair for spares though), P90 head, alternator and distributor. I have a some alternatives on turbochargers, intake manifolds and exhaust manifolds which I am considering. I am still in desperate need of 280Z stub axles!!!, rear wheel bearings, and a rear disc brake setup.

No, sorry. Will stay turbo after all. So I have a different wtb ad here. This one can be deleted.

I already have a 280ZXT intake manifold, and I have larger injectors, 60mm throttle body and a custom fuel rail. But I would like a cleaner looking non-egr manifold though.

Bump! Shipping would be to: JetCarrier 37954 Att:PÃ¥l Espen Johannessen 601 W Linden Av Suite 37954 Linden, NJ 07036

Oh, I also need a lightweight flywheel (240mm) and a good turbo

As the title says, I am looking for the following parts: P90 head with solid lifters. Preferably in good shape ready to bolt on. It would be a pluss if it has been rebuilt, but not a must. 280Z stub axles 280ZXT C/V axles, also looking for Modern motorsports C/V adapters, but I'll probably need to buy these new. Rising rate/adjustable fuel pressure regulator (Aeromotive, SX or something similar) Clean EFI intake manifold I also need a 280ZXT exhaust manifold, some sort of EFI-system (haltech, electromotive, etc), rear disc brakes

Glad to hear that!

I have viewed this thread three times so far. Unfortunately I don't have any answers to you, as I haven't experienced this myself. Perhaps I'm blind, but I don't see any figure 9 on that pdf-file, only 1, 2 and 3. So, have you wired it according to any of these? On my previous 260Z I had a Crane Cams CDI. After installing it the tachometer wouldn't work, because I needed an adapter. Probably not helpful information, but maybe you need something similar?

Yes, I'm located in Norway. I guess it would need to be shipped in two packages? It would depend on the weight. I think shipping is cheapest through USPS. If you know the weight of the parts, shipping costs should be easy to calculate on usps.com. How much do you want for the parts?

Hi! I am in need of some parts for my car: - 240Z front and rear strut-housings with top mounts (don't need the struts or the springs though) - Rear control arms - R180 or R200 differential with either a 3.9:1 or (preferably) 4.11:1 ratio. LSD or non-LSD. Give me an offer. - Lightweigh flywheel (must be large enough for a 240mm spec clutch) - N36 SU-manifold with throttle linkage - Fuel filler hose going from tank to fender - Not quite decided 100% on carburetors yet, so also interested in carbs (round top SU's or tripple sidedrafts) - Square port headers with a primary ID of preferably 1 5/8" If I remember anything else I need, I'll add it to the list

Nice looking car!!! But I'd mount a bumper in the front, and paint the grille and the rear plate black. Perhaps also a bumper in the rear. Just my personal opinion, no offense! Is this going to be a high-rpm race-engine? If not, then I wouldn't change to shorter rods and a L24 crankshaft. What you gain in response and high-rpm power you loose in low end torque and street-driveability. You haven't considered turbocharging? Just asking. That is by far the easiest way to get some serious power. I am going the other way though, basically because it is hard to get the turbo-build approved in norway.

Thanks for all the detailed feedback people!! It's nice to have all of you share some of your knowledge with the less wise amongst us. I don't have time for a long and detailed post now, but I just wanted to say that the dellortos are probably not in the picture anymore. He wanted 600$ for them, and they will need a service as well. So, unless using SU's will be a major performance-stopper on our build, we'll probably buy a newly rebuilt pair (rebuilt at ztherapy) for 300$ (or is this too expensive? It's only the two carbs, no manifolds or throttle linkage etc), and just slap them on when the time comes. I'll get back to all the other stuff soon, but if you guys think the SUs will be too small (or that they're not a good deal at that price), do speak up.

I know, people are negative to such estimates. All I need to know is if we will be able to pass 200 whp, I guess we would be satisfied with anything above. We won't go too radical on the cam as we want good driveability. It will be a cruiser for the most part, perhaps the odd trackday every other year. I found out today that the R180 I have is 3.36:1. Which sucks. And the R200 is 3.54:1. How hard is it to change gears, and do most R200 gears fit in the R200 that originates from the 280ZXT? I see that many gears are available from Japan on ebay.

Yes, I know. I actually did just that with the P90 head I had built for my turbo-project. I bought a good core from ebay and had it sent to lonewolf performance. But this time, if I am going to alter the E31 I have, the shipping charges will be at least 400$ if not more for shipping it both ways. It's a rare head, so it will be hard to find one in the US at a reasonable price. Furthermore, I doubt we will do anything more to the head than install hardened seats and larger valves, and smooth out the ports and the chamber. Hopefully someone nearby will be able to perform those tasks. But I'll send Braap a PM and ask him how much he would charge for such a job.

So what you are saying is that the Dellortos can be used as is? (with regards to them being set up for turbo vs N/A) The reason these carbs are interesting is because I can get them cheap from the person who bought my unused T3/T04B turbo and Lonewolf Performance intake manifold since I gave him a good deal on those parts. We haven't settled on a price yet, but probably somewhere around 300-400$. They will probably need some tlc. (what price am I looking at for a set of decent tripple webers/mikunis?) The alternative will probably be roundtop SU's with a N36 manifold. So, how do these two options compare? I know the SU's are much easier to tune etc, so that's a good reason for going with those. But, will the dellortos offer much better power despite them only being 40mm? If you guys were to give a ballpark guesstimate, where would we be power- and torque-wise with these dellortos (or the SU's), L28, flat tops, street cam (typical stage 3 grind), E31 with the bigger valves installed, headers and a crank-fire ignition?

Haha, glad you remember it still. I haven't been around here the last few years. I was worried you wouldn't reply to my threads any longer because of the money I owe you. I was gonna ask about it now that I have started visiting the forum once again, it came to mind the minute I set foot here again. If you just tell me how much I owe you, I'll paypal it to you straight away. Jmortensen: Because I live in Norway, the cost of sending the head to the US and back again would be quite expensive. So I'd like to avoid that. But, I bet no machine shop here in Norway knows the Datsun OHC heads.... Unshrouding of the valves, this is something that can be done by myself right? But when I install hardened seats and larger valves, do I need to have a valve-job performed as well? (3/5 angle or radius cut) Another thing, I can get my hands on a set of Dellorto carburetors. They are Dellorto DHLA 40's. 3 twin 40 mm carburetors. But the thing is, these have been used together with a turbo on a push through setup, thus I don't know if they can be used on a N/A-engine without modification?

Yeah, my plan was to just clean up the ports. Smooth out the intake ports, and go all the way and polish the exhaust ports and the chambers/bowl area. I have never performed major head work before, only gasket matched some manifolds and turbos etc. So I don't know all the specifics when it comes to head-rebuilding. But if I understand you guys right, installing bigger valves is as easy as just slapping in a new one? (once I have installed hardened seats) If someone could explain the specifics that would be great. Arizonazcar sells ss-valves. Are these suitable?

So, I am going to use my E31 head on the F54 block I have built. (stock stroke and bore, flattop pistons, 1mm HKS headgasket, a CR around 10.5:1). We will be using either twin roundtop SU's with a N36 manifold, or tripple webers/mikunis/dellortos. This will be in combination with headers, 2,5" straight through exhaust and distributorless crank-fire ignition (Unless an electronic ignition from a 280ZX is good enough?). The camshaft will be a relatively mild grind (stage 3 or so) so that we keep good driveability in the lower rpms. It won't be a racetrack-car, only for spirited driving on the streets, and maybe an occasional trackday. What do we need to do with the E31 to get the most out of this engine-combo/get it to work well? Is it enough to lightly port it and install hardened valve seats? Or do we "HAVE" to install larger valves in it? Will the valves be the one thing restricting power and flow if we keep the stock size?

Thanks for the replies guys! The engine that was for sale turned out to be located on the other side of the country, so the shipping would be too expensive. I think we'll go for the E31 then. I definately don't want to start altering the pistons. We will install a proper cam suited for the raised CR, along with a high rpm valvetrain. For ignition we were thinking along the lines of a distributorless setup, but not until after we have shown the car to the local car-authorities and gotten it registered/approved with the larger displacement engine. But, if we are to go distributorless etc, the question arises whether we should opt for FI instead of carburetors? I do like the old school look/feel of carbs. If we stick with carburetors, how big a difference is there between properly set up round top SU's with 260Z manifolds vs tripple webers/dellortos/mikunis? From what I gather here: http://datsunzgarage.com/engine/ the advantage with going tripple isn't THAT big compared to the extra complexity when tuning them. But the sound is sweeter!! The question is, is it necessary? What about the drivetrain? We'll stick with the T5 tranny and the Spec stage 2+ 240mm clutch. We'll also get a 240mm Fidanza flywheel. Will an R180 do, or do we need the R200? Are stock 240Z half shafts strong enough for the torque this engine will produce?

Btw, I still have the L24 that came with the car. The head on this engine is the E31. Are the valves on this head too small for it to be suited in it's stock form?

Hi! Well, it's been a REALLY long time since I last posted. To make a long story short, it turned out to be a real hassle trying to get my build aproved by the vehicle-authorities here in norway (L28ET in 240Z). Furthermore they were negative to the Modern Motorsport coilovers as I didn't have any test-lab papers on them. Also, I haven't had time for my Z because of studies and house-renovation. Now my father and I have decided to go the N/A route instead of turbo. I have sold my custom P90 head, but still have the F54 block. It has forged JE flat-tops (they have a small dish, but are nearly flat-tops. They were spec'ed to give a 8.5:1 CR in conjunction with a 1mm HKS gasket and a stock P90 head on a stock bore F54), and I also have the 1mm HKS headgasket. What head is suitable for this bottom end? Also, what can I expect the engine to put out? We are not going to make a stroker or bore it since the bottom end is already complete with lots of money spent. We want to use carburettors and some sort of upgraded ignition. (what's recommended here if one wants to use something better than a 280ZXT distributor?) We might be able to buy a L24 for cheap that has tripple 40mm dellorto carburettors, 6-1 headers, E88 head with a stage 3 Schneider cam (.460 lift and 280/270 dur. Makes good power from 2500-6500 rpm). Is this head+cam usable for our bottom end? How about the carburetors? I only know that tripple webers is a good thing, but I am not familiar with dellortos. IF we go that way, what sort of output can we expect? If it is not advisable to use that head/cam, what do you recommend? I still have the Borg Warner T5-transmission (280ZXT) that I bought earlier on. Can this be used with a N/A setup or will the ratios be wrong? I guess my 3.54:1 R200 isn't suitable? 3.9:1 og 4.11 would be best? I also have the R180 that came with the car (1970 modell US 240Z, not sure what ration it has). Is this usable, or will it be too weak? How about the stock 240Z half-shafts and stub axles? I appreciate all input on this!

I guess their 5000 quote is just in the ballpark range, and the real price when they're done will probably be a bit more. Turbocharging the L28E is not expensive at all compared. You get a new turbo for 700-900$, an exhaust manifold for 100$ off ebay, megasquirt will cost you a few hundred dollars, and then you need bigger injectors. FMIC and exhaust you would need anyways. The advantage with turbocharging the L28E you have is that you can do it in a stepwise manner, upgrading as you go along. The CR you have on your L28E is 8.29:1 acording to the Lengine calculator, and that is actually lower than the CR I am going to have. So I wouldn't worry about your CR being to high, just make sure to avoid detonation as the stock HG will probably blow.

The 200$ ones on ebay are crap. Cheap china-copies that are glued together etc. I'd rather buy a used one if you want something in that pricerange. I wouldn't have tried rebuilding the turbo you have if I were you, with that much rubbing on the compressorhousing I would think the center section has taken a beat as well, thus changing the bearings etc won't do. Contact http://www.speedshopthagard.com/. He knows alot about turbo-sizing for the L6 and what to choose, and he has good prices. He is a member here, think he's called 240Z Turbo or Turbo 240Z.

It doesn't look like there is much activity at this part of the forum at the time being. I'd answer you if I'd have some know how about this. But I don't.