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mklotz70

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About mklotz70

  • Birthday 12/01/1963

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    http://www.olddatsuns.com
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    mklotz70

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    Gresham, OR

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  1. First reason that came to mind is this...... somebody, somewhere posted the year/make/model of the MR2 strut option. Everyone pretty much follows suit. Not many will take the time to dig through tons of other y/m/m's to find a different/better option. Second reason.....the MR2 is a rear engine car, so I'm guessing the rear strut inserts would be valved more closely to what you'd want on the front of a Z/510. The option you found has a good length, but maybe it's too soft? I really don't know, that's just my guess for a possible reason why it's been ignored. I came up with the Colt option while digging through an ACDelco strut catalog I found here.... http://www.acdelco.com.au/PDFs/Catalogue_ACDelco_Shocks.pdf I went to the section with the sizes, found the shortest bodies, then tracked those down using the search feature, to find they're application. Since it's an Australian catalog, not all of the applications are going to cross to the US. Might be a good resource for guys trying to find shocks too. All the numbers I was crossing were GC (gas cartridge) #'s and shocks would be GS (gas shock). Glad you like that thread. Thanks! On top of all the time spent digging up the info for myself and doing the mods....it takes a good deal of time posting it all. Nice to hear the info is being used. Helps to make it feel like it's worth it
  2. I only chime in because I've been adding info to a strut mod thread I started on Ratsun awhile back. http://forum.ratsun.net/showthread.php?t=6895 The tokico's were out of my price range and I had no need/desire for the adjustability. I found that 300zx front struts are the same length and travel as the MR2 rears that all the 510 guys use up front. The hole in the mount will have to be opened up a bit since the shaft on these inserts is bigger. I've been really pleased with the ride so far, although I haven't driven on them much. The 300 inserts are 3/4" shorter than the 280zx. There's a button on the bottom of the insert, I've been tempted to remove it, but I'm not sure why it's there. That would gain another 1/4". I'd feel better about taking it off is someone could tell me why it's there. For really short....there's a vw insert out there that is even shorter. You're probably after inserts that are tuneable, so this info may not do you any good.
  3. My 2 cents....get the extended warranty with it! I had one. When I tried to turn the air volume down a bit so that it wouldn't blow the plastic around, it burned up the heating coil.
  4. That makes perfect sense...now that I reread the first post and saw the metric sizes....thanks
  5. If side wall is a concern, I'm curious why you didin't just use the HBT10-8.00. It's about $3 more, but would have saved the drilling/tapping.
  6. They may have forgotten to put the adapters in with it. It's a lot cheaper and easier to buy a SS hydraulic line in the length you want, then put the correct adapters on the end to make it fit. That's how I buy my lines from these guys. Oil Filter Services Co 615 SE Market St Portland, OR 97214-3522 (503) 232-5126‎ I'd call who ever you ordered the lines from first and see if it was an oops.
  7. I'm posting this separate in case it's not "okay" to put up links to other forums. I've got a of ton time invested into threads on Ratsun(I know at least a handful of guys are on both of these forums), so it's much easier to just link to there. Anyway....... This is a link to the valve cover thread. There's actually a good deal of info in it about cleaning the aluminum and different tungstens to use. And the welding is bad enough to be a bit embarrassing.....so maybe some other beginners will feel better http://forum.ratsun.net/showthread.php?t=6675
  8. New guy....came here for the fabrication more than the cars. You guys have some awesome fab threads going. I've got a Millermatic 185(175A?) and a 200A inverter style TIG. I've done aluminum with both(I'm a beginner on both) and they both have they're upsides. I cut/modified a full size Dodge pickup bed hardcover to fit a 521 for a friend. I welded the extruded aluminum channel back together with the mig, since that was all I had at the time. I bought a new liner, but used the same rollers. I lightened up the pressure on the rollers a bit. I was also running staight argon through it. The higher I turned the settings up, the better it welded. I also found that it seemed to work better with more stick out (how much wire is hanging out of the tip). The AL wire(.030) melts so fast that to push as much current through as it seemed to take, it wanted to melt in the tip. I think I had nearly an inch of stick out. I had the gas up pretty good, but I don't remember the setting. I also had no air flow in the room at the time. I moved the bed cover far enough from the welder that I could keep the cord almost completely straight. I've only done AL this way a few times and I did ball it up once. It did make some nice, flat weld beads with good penetration. From talking with a couple of other welders, I got this..... You run a brand new liner because of all the roughness and wear inside one that has been used for steel wire. The rollers put a serrated texture on the wire when they squeeze it and that saws away at the liner....in miniscule amounts. It also causes the wire to leave behind fine steel particles...which you don't want coming out on the AL wire and into the weld. As mentioned, run one size bigger tip so that the AL doesn't drag or bind as the wire swells from the heat. When you switch back to steel wire....switch out the liner and keep that one just for AL. It was only about $14 if I remember right...so well worth the $'s to have a dedicated liner. Had I had the tig at the time, I think I would have gone that route. The mig was simple and worked great at the time. But on nice clean, fairly new AL...the tig gives a great deal more control. This thread is more about welding AL with the mig, so I'll save the tig stuff As for the valve cover...I still have a project that I haven't quite finished becuase it was such a nightmare trying to weld it!!! I was doing it with the tig, but I think I'm going to try the mig next time!! The AL of the valve cover is quite porous. So...getting it clean seems to be the biggest problem. I've used AL cleaners and SS wire brushes....about the only recommendation that I haven't tried yet is to bake it at 400-450 for about 45 min to burn out any contaminates. Sorry...I can get a bit long winded
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