WanganDevilZ

L28 with Rb26 head? Nice! Not exactly digging the back and forth between the two shops, as both produce some beefy motors, but better than my garage none-the-less!

Not usually, I'm still bumbling around in my FC, I've got my two Zs to worry about till I can get around to one of those, great to see someone with a running S130 Turbo swap in their S30 tho Respect

Hey guys, I recently got a 1977 280z, crank no start, replaced cap and rotor, spark wires, troubleshot injectors, all 6 are firing, and it does idle now, kind of. This is going to be a direct copy paste from my post on www.zdriver.com (Thread) Just going over routine check, found that all 7 (coil too) spark plug contacts on the rotor cap are rusted, enough that I busted one of the wired trying to get it out even after letting it sit for a while in PB blaster, also the TPS connections are corroded, same with the AFM, let them sit in PB/Toolboxbuddy for a while. Also found out, didn't notice this until today (after hounding this car for about two months) that four of the injectors are black, and two are green. All six of my turbo injectors on the rail, are black. I also remember reading somewhere that N/A = Green, T = Black, correct? I need to take the screws out (as they are stripped, hex screws incoming), to get everything cleaned. All plugs are good, dirty, but they have no concerning flags (Like... coolant..) No other real updates now. Will probably drop the gas tank to fabricate an almost replica from sheet metal/what I find to be safe, as that tank is toast... Sending unit, rest of the tank is identical /break/ Whelp, I went through, checking everything, the plugs were rusted at the dizzy cap (and at the coil too D= ), so I replaced the Cap, wires, and brought over my MSD coil from my S130, cleaned everything, got the broken injector bolt fixed, found out which injectors worked, which didn't (All were firing before I bolted them in, now #1 and #2 are not firing ) But it idles, kinda rough, but its an idle without dieing Also found out that the alternator is shot. So I'll be replacing that with my old one that I have, should still be good. /break/ I think this is my first video proof of one of my Zs running http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ZgWGQwgdXM /break/ Found kind of an issue today, the Z will start, idle regularly, but then the RPM will drop and eventually it will die, no matter how much I mess with the idle screw or the TPS http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5MCR-CkOzs8 /break/ Now, I haven't been able to test the different AFMs I have, I know that the one that was on the car had more pin connections than I actually had on the AFM plug, the AFM I picked up at the salvage yard has the same amount of pins as the plug does, it is from a 79 S130 tho, which... should be okay?

You ever come to Tulsa for Nismokc meets?

The wires for the fuel pump are Bl/G, W/B, B, and another color. Now, there is a relay hooked up near the interior fuse box, and there is also one with identical wires near the fusible links box, except it has a yellow wire in addition. Which one is which?

I know this is a late update, but its really my only day to be working on this with such a nice day outside, and it bein labor day and all, I thought it would be nice to give my Z a few hours labor. The only "Connectors" i have, two are green, one is white, and one is gray/white Pics y0! W/P, W/B, W, Orange First connector is on left. Right connector is B/W, W/B, W/B, and Orange, which is connected to the other connector G/W, W/B, Orange, Cyan Cyan, Cyan Red, Cyan Black, Orange, and Black No 8 pin connectors like you described. D= Edit: I found a gray connector that I had fail spliced a few months ago, it is a round gray connector with an orange inside, its colors are B/W, W, Black, and another black. I must have known something a few months ago because it was connected to my AFM, but it didnt look right... Any help would be extraordinary!

That is called stealing. Its a very problematic issue on Ebay, and if you bought these from a legitimate company, you can easily get your $27 back. Scan your receipt, take a picture of the USPS box's shipping label, and email it to them, demanding an explanation as to why: 1. They miscalculated and 2. Why you were not reimbursed your $27 immediately when they found out it was not actually going to be 77.50 It may not be a big deal to any of you guys, but thats really low to me. Just my $00.02 Good tidings on your build =)

where are your grounds at? I'm having trouble finding them, and im sure that's my problem.

After a bunch of knuckle bruising I think I may be getting it done correctly. Edit: Still failing. Then again I dont know if my ground is grounded. I have the BLU/RED wire on my fuel pump relay (Fuel pump relay on ECU) connected to ECU terminal 18 (Labeled: Fuel pump relay) (BLK/PNK) I also have WHT/BLK on my fuel pump relay connected to the WHT/BLK wire on my ignition, which should be ACC? What is wierd, is that my clock does not turn off. Even with the key removed from the ignition. I also have wire 43 from the RB20 ECU which is ignition switch START signal, and i'm looking at wire 45, which is IGN Ignition switch. Did i kind of do it right? Think you could unscrew your kick panel and take a lookski?

Is it absolutely necessary to use a 30amp? What would happen if i used the current relay on my Z? Edit: Also, did you use your stock engine bay fuse box or the RB20 fuse box?

+100 to appreciation, but I'm a little bit confused, could you provide pictures of the said steps? I've been sitting in my driveway scratching my head all afternoon, it took me a while to find the FP relay, and now I dont know what to do with it xD!

Nvm, i just noticed on the albums that its an Automatic tranny mount. My mistake xD Also, for some reason i was not able to edit my post above... any reason why?

None taken. I just hope nothing leaks. I'll try and get a solid pipe welded/built soon, and don't plan on running it very much/hard until i can find out that it does in fact hold, till i can get the metal pipe done.

The finished product: