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Hugh

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Hugh last won the day on May 10 2006

Hugh had the most liked content!

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About Hugh

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    Member
  • Birthday 08/19/76

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  • Website URL
    http://www.zeroyon.com

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    Huntington Beach, CA
  1. Sold! Got my full asking price, in case you were curious.
  2. Vildini did the motor install, too. They're pretty well known here on the forum.
  3. WTB z car w/ SR20DET swap

    Here's Mine for sale with SR20DET installed. Fast daily driver.
  4. I'll try to list everything that is on it, but I'm sure I will overlook some of the mods. There is a ton of stuff done to this thing, and I understand I have to sacrifice on the price because you never get back what you put into them. 1973 Datsun 240z (originally a 4-speed manual model) SMOG EXEMPT (means no inspections) Unknown miles. Odometer is stopped at like 48K, but no clue about actual miles. S13 SR20DET motor swapped in professionally by Vildini Motorsport in Mission Viejo, CA. They did several of these before mine, so they knew what they were doing when they installed it. It includes the custom subframe that puts the motor behind the front axle (front mid-ship mounting) as well as the tranny mount, stiff motor mounts, shifter hole modified, throttle cable, alternator/starter wiring, etc... For those who don't know, the SR20DET is a motor that came in the Nissan Silvia and 180sx in Japan (the counterpart for our 240sx of the 90's.) It's a DOHC 16V all aluminum 4-cylinder that came factory turbocharged. They put out 205hp & 203lb/ft of torque. This one is pushing more like 250hp to the wheels in it's current state. Electromotive Tec3 standalone for fuel and ignition. Tuned via laptop computer. It doesn't take a good one to work it, any old laptop will do. I'll give you all my maps. My ignition map is a thing of beauty (written according to direct instructions from a pro who built a few 500hp stock block SR's), and fuel maps are easy. The Tec3 gives you free reign to do whatever you please on this thing. The ignition system is really powerful and helps out a lot with high boost, etc.. It has four programmable outputs and several inputs for things such as a wideband. This motor has never seen more than the stock T25 turbo and manifold. That's what is still on it. Stock 5-speed with some sort of upgraded firm clutch. Short shifter and brass shifter bushing (down in the transmission - takes all the slop out so the stick feels tight and shift throws are really short) Apexi GT-spec front mount intercooler from an S14 Silvia Afco aluminum radiator (weighs nothing and does an awesome job) + electric fan attached to radiator Greddy Type RS Blow Off Valve Greddy Intake Plenum with Infiniti Q45 Throttle Body (huge) Full custom intercooler piping and exhaust. The exhaust never drops below 3" from turbo to tailpipe. One muffler inline, and one big stainless can on the back. Fuel system consists of a V8 low pressure pump feeding a surge tank in front of the main tank. The surge tank feeds a Walbro 255lph High Pressure pump. There are filters before each pump and a standard SR fuel filter in the front before the fuel rail. The fuel rail has a Nismo fuel pressure regulator and SARD 850cc side feed injectors. Both pumps and all three filters were replaced last year. Apexi AVC-R boost controller Blitz Oil pressure/Oil Temp/Boost/Water temp (water temp not connected) Optima Red top battery Suspension consists of Tokico Illumina 5-way adjutable struts and springs. They make an obvious difference when changing levels. I use 3 on the street usually, but 5 feels great. Energy Suspension Polyurethane bushings installed on 100% of the front end. The steering coupler, as well. The rear end bushings were never done because I planned on swapping everything out back there and never decided what to do. 15x8" Sportmax wheels with brand new 225 50/15 Yokohama ES100's in back, Dunlop 8000's up front (good condition) Brand new front brakes with rebuilt factory calipers Raybrig Headlights (H4 modular housings) Shaved rear end, perfect doors, needs floor pans repaired, rust in all the typical 240z areas Includes black and brown interiors, boxes of spare parts, etc... Car runs great. I drive it every day. It pulls somehwere around a low 12 second 1/4 mile according to power/weight estimates and the cars I've run with in the past. Destroys all your typical ricers, keeps right up with Porsches and stuff. It's not a pipe dream project car. It starts, runs, and goes fast. It's been very reliable. I can work with people if it needs to be shipped, but would love to sell it locally so you can drive it and see for yourself. This is a sacrifice at $7500. It's been really good to me, but I'm ready to move on to a new project. I'm not hurting for money, and I know my price is very realistic. No B.S. No lowballers. Don't waste my time with a dozen texts. Don't contact me if you're not prepared to come up with $7500 for a car. Serious inquiries can call my cell: 760-717-9556. (I'm in Huntington Beach)
  5. Take a look into a JDM parts catalog with a price list. It's outrageous. Trust, HKS, etc... their list prices are nuts. The shops in Japan sell them for less than the list and its still expensive. Once its shipped back over here, then its just out of control.
  6. So goes business. Those fake Greddy manifolds are what we call "Freddy" manifolds. I've seen some studies on them several years back. One guy cut one in half and showed how horrible the ports were inside. He had to grind away a bunch of material to clean it up. It looked like a porcupine died in the port or something. The cheap casting was so porous that it was causing leaks in the middle between runners. There was no way to identify this until you really inspected it very closely. Once you apply a ton of boost pressure, it would be blowing air right out those holes... wasting power, and causing the engine to run rich for no apparent reason. Once he fixed all that and welded it back together, it worked. He then said he'd buy the more expensive one next time and avoid all the trouble. There are 'good' knock-off parts out there. You have to research them and find people showing good results from them before you try, though. I personally don't run any. There are name brands that are not Japanese that produce great quality parts... as the Japanese gouge their prices really bad. You wonder why companies like Apexi and Trust are at risk of going out of business? How about the exorbitant prices they charge for their parts? Lot's of the R&D involved is simply buying a part from an American company and stamping their name on it. Then they double the price. I'm not going to start listing specific parts here, but I discovered a lot of dead-on rebadged American parts in Japan when I lived there for 5 years. We ordered as much as we could from the states to save money. JDM = BS. If you can get the part elsewhere, go for it. Even the Japanese manufacturers are moving all their production out to China. (actually, the likely beat us to the punch, as they are right next door and shipping costs a lot less)
  7. 77 fairlady

    RHD in the US in just annoying and a bit dangerous, in my opinion. Not seeing the driver side causes clearance issues, and you can't see when you're pulling out into traffic. I drove RHD in Japan. Also done LHD in Japan, and it was scary. (and inconvenient every time I came to a toll booth, drive thru, etc...) Just my 2 cents.
  8. leds

    and now you get what I'm saying about 56 led's pushing 10,000 mcd from 14 volts.
  9. My 240 SR20 Build

    Definitely not my favorite BMW color, but wow that looks great! Nice work, thus far. I'm considering shaving that logo, but I kinda like them. Still undecided on that.
  10. level of commitment

    That's how my brother built cars. He'd have a built motor with a blower and heads etc... piling up, and not even know what chassis to put it in. They were all really fast when he did, though.
  11. leds

    Looks wider to me. (pantera)
  12. What Is The Last Year 240Z?

    Whichever is newer, engine or chassis, designates which smog laws you have to comply to. If you pull an engine from a newer chassis, you are required to have EVERY smog device that came on it. You will have to pass the smog regulations of the donor vehicle. If the chassis is newer and the engine is older, then you have to make the older engine meet the requirements of the newer chassis. (to the best of my understanding) The engines he mentioned are not street legal in the US. There are no smog regulations for them, because they weren't sold in California originally and shouldn't even be on the road.
  13. Targa Top 240Z

    This is the Hybridz site, right? Cut that thing up!! Go wild. Hahaha Good luck with it not caving in on you, though. The roof is an important part of the structure of a unibody. If you had a good roll cage with a targa top, I could see it working. Or if you somehow managed that newer porsche style where it retains the roof around the windows. Everyone whom ever added a sunroof can tell you it leaks. (fyi)
  14. level of commitment

    What's my level of commitment? This car is my only mode of transportation, and I run my own business. This is how I get there. Problem is the business takes precedence, so the money gets invested there now, rather than into the car most of the time. $100 isn't that huge of a commitment, by the way! Now if you had a motor set in your garage waiting on a car... that would be a different story.
  15. What Is The Last Year 240Z?

    How often has this come up for Hybridz Members? I mean... how often have members here been given a date with the ref? I know there are plenty of 240sx owners who had to swap back to stock motors to visit the ref. I've just never seen a 1975 or older car owner have to make the trip. (although I understand it is a possibility)
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