NewZed
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Posts posted by NewZed
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How are you measuring power at the transistor? Are you probing the board? Did you pick the correct pin?
You're in to electronics world now. Here's a couple of links that might help. I've never been in to a Megasquirt board I'm just commenting based on the basics. Maybe you'll see something in the diagram. There's a fuse or two but it seems like the whole unit would be down if it blew.
Maybe the BIP373 is damaged, although they say it's very durable in the link I gave above. But in their chip upgrade, linked below, they call it "infamous". Who knows, their description above and the link below are kind of contradictory. Good luck.
https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/other/grounds/
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It's not the votage drop that matters it's what the voltage drop indicates. No spark will be created if the current through the coil is not stopped.
You could also disconnect the coil negative at the coil and check the wire for continuity to ground, key off. Disconnect the wire, put one meter probe on the end and the other probe on a good bare piece of metal or the engine block. You should get OL or infinite/huge ohms on your meter.
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Here's some BIP373 stuff in case you haven't seen it. It will shut down automatically if settings are wrong. They give some quick and dirty settings also.
https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/other/bosch-bip373-ignition/
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I don't know much about TunerStudio but can you see the coil control signals? In other words does it show that the current is being turned on and turned off? That's what causes spark, the turning off of the current.
11.9 volts is low, implying that the negative side of the coil is grounded. But it should only be grounded through the Megasquirt circuit, no other circuits. You might try disconnecting the connection to Megasquirt and seeing if the coil still has a voltage drop. You might have a short to ground on the negative side of the coil. With Megasquirt disconnected from the coil the voltage should match battery voltage exactly since no currrent is flowing.
The other thing connected to the coil negative is the tachometer trigger. A shorted tachometer could cause the problem, for example, although that is unusual.
You didn't confirm that the old igntion module is completely disconnected. If the blue wire from the coil is accidentally grounded it will cause a problem like yours.
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Probably in the manual. It's both 700 and 3000. Good luck.
https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/xr700 instructions.pdf
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You shouldn't need to snip the resistor for the tach. Might actually be a bad idea. Just disconnect the original module by the fusebox and leave the blue wire connected at the coil so the tach can count sparks. somebody on another forum just had a similar problem. They forgot to disconnect the module but after they did everything worked fine with the resistor on the tach line.
Have you looked through the several installation articles out there? I think that the swap to the DIY CAS wheel just make things more likely to work correctly. "More friendly" as DIY Autotune says. Something to keep in mind if you have problems. Good luck. Post a startup video.
https://www.diyautotune.com/product/54-mm-optical-trigger-wheel-for-nissan-l28et-or-vg30e/
https://forums.hybridz.org/forum/93-megasquirt/
https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/install
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There is no swap hardware to put the Z transmission behind a V8. It wouldn't handle the torque anyway. The 260Z engine is about 158 cubic inches, compared to 350 for a SBC. The old Z transmission bearings are typically ready to fall apart besides that, not uncommon even with the stock engines. It would probably last about one pull.
I haven't done it myself, but I wouldn't even try it just based on what I've learned.
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Yes, with the carbs you can get rid of the ECU and EFI parts. The complete EFI harness can be removed. The guys that know on the site (from the past) say that the exhaust system is restrictive and opening it up helps a lot (see John C posts from the past) , and that if you decide to use a performance cam go big (see JMortensen posts from the past). The typical "Stage" 1 or 2 cams don't add much, apparently. So, the simple and effective way to add some power is with a better exhaust system and a big cam. Cams are more expensive than they seem because you need to buy lash pads and rocker arms along with the cam. The collection of parts costs can add up. But it's a pretty simple operation to get it done.
Many people like the lighter flywheel. It takes more finesse on the clutch pedal but they say it's worth it. Fidanza is a good choice.
For street driving an LSD doesn't add much. You might wait on it and see if you have traction problems.
There is a ton on the site from the old-timers, around the 2000 to 2015 time range. Things have slowed a lot on the site as people have moved on. But their contributions are still here. Many of the guys were racers and/or engineers/mechanics/machinists and spent a lot of time and money on their projects. Today's car hobbyists really only know turbos and EFI since that's what they were raised on. Good luck.
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I had both square and round flanges from a 76 and a 78 propeller shaft (what Nissan calls the center longitudinal driveshaft) and a variety of diffs with round and square flanges and they all interchanged. There are definitely different bolt patterns but you can't tell by the shape of the flange. Best to measure.
Watch out for the 88 viscous LSD. Different axles. Shiro.
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The drums might be rubbing on the backing plates. Not uncommon to get a bend in it when working on the brakes. You'll see a shiny spot.
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Which end? If the piece in the cabin broke you can use Vise-grips. If the end under the hood broke you'll have to figure something out.
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Sometimes a rocker arm will just be noisy. Has any work been done on the head? You might check the wipe patterns on the rocker arm wear/rubbing pads. Where the cam touches the rocker arm. It's not uncommon for people to get the wrong lash pads installed. I've even seen where the cam lobe runs off the end of the pad.
https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50485-rocker-geometry-woes/
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These overhead cam rocker arm manual lash adjustment engines are naturally noisy. Have you adjusted the valve lash? It's the first item in the Nissan FSM tune-up chapter. By the pictures and video, your lash is certainly not too tight. It looks a little loose, by the extent of the brown on the cam lobes.
It doesn't sound terrible. It might even be an injector. You can disconnect the injectors with the engine running to see. Pull the clips so the injector plugs are loose, put the valve cover back on and let it run. Pull each injector one by one and see if anything changes. If the noise is still there after adjusting lash.
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Here's a pasted image. Just for reference, it's not the web site. I think I've seen the -200 error when I tried to upload a certain image format. Might have been a Paint file. Maybe try saving your picture in a different format and retrying.
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What are your short-term and long-term plans? Should be pretty easy to get it running again if you want to have a driveable project.
Give more history about the car. How many miles? How long has it been sitting? "A couple years" probably means ten. When was the last time it ran? If it ran before you don't really need to check cylinder pressures. First thing might be to check the fuel quality in the tank. Don't turn the key on if the fuel is bad the pump will prime some of it through the fuel system. Check the oil for water. Check the air filter and intake tubing for mice nests.
Many small things you can do before turning the engine to get a good head start on getting it running again. classiczcars.com also has Factory Service Manuals.
Since you're in Utah I wouldn't be so sure about the advice to remove the windshield. You'll know if it leaks after you wash it. No need to create more work for your self unless you know it's necessary. Good luck.
p.s. take a video of the engine. We'll see if any parts are missing.
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I think that you are right. Surprised that it fits in there the wrong way. Does it actually fit or is it just jammed in?
Look more closely at the various drawings and you'll see.
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My experience has been that when the parts are installed correctly you can tell. I'm not even really sure what you're talking about, to be honest. Hard to see how a person could get it installed incorrectly. Post a picture.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=14663421&cc=1209226&pt=10070&jsn=383
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It's designed to "stick", it's a jam nut. Threads against threads. The last guy probably over-torqued. One trick to get more force on your wrenches without smashing your knuckles or contorting your body or applying force to the rod ends is to set the wrenches up with about a one-inch gap between them and use your grip strength to apply the force. Squeeze them together. Don't get your fingers between them. And if the wrenches are slipping use Vise-grips. Also, don't forget about leverage. Longer wrenches.
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Try explaining that catalytic converters were not used until 1975. The cop might have assumed that the loud exhaust meant that the cats were gone. Take a copy of the Owners Manual and or the FSM pages that show that there is no catalytic converter. Don't talk about anything under the hood. Not a word.
Also point out that the car was properly tagged and registered with the equipment the cop cited as deficient. And apologize for your brother's stupidity.
Three years later the recently created Environmental Protection Agency mandated that all cars beginning with model year 1975 be outfitted with catalytic converters to meet emission standards. Thousands of researchers were put to work by catalyst companies and car manufacturers. General Motors alone, at the time the country’s largest carmaker, put 5,000 people to work on catalytic converters.
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No, you just pull the bearings off of the front of their shafts. The countershaft bearing is pretty tight to the gear and takes some trickery. The mainshaft bearing needs a puller with long arms.
You can push the rods back to get more room. The transmission will have multiple gears engaged but it won't matter. When you reinstall the front case put it in a single gear (one rod moved) to avoid locking up the transmission by accident.
Here's a decent video about the countershaft bearing, different tranmsision but same concepts. He did the same thing I did, clamping a two jaw puller in to the gap, otherwise the jaws pop off. The mainshaft is a more normal operation but the length of the shaft has to be managed.
It takes some work. If you have friends that have pulled bearings or gears it might be worhtwhile to get some more ideas and tools on-hand. Notice the odd combination.
Go to 4:00 if it doesn't start there.
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4th gear doesn't use the countershaft, it's direct drive. That's a good clue. Sounds more like the countershaft bearing. Looks like you'll need to split the cases, so you might as well do the mainshaft/input shaft bearing also. It's not a super-finesse job. Just needs some ingenuity. It's fun. Part of Z ownership.
Here's a good illustration of the parts you'll be looking at. I'm sure that there are "how-to" videos out there somewhere. You can get a factory service manual on the internet that shows how to take it apart. Good luck.
https://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/240SX5spd/Transmission2.htm
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78 280 ms2 3.57 dizzy/ignition wiring
in MegaSquirt
Posted
The power to the chip would come through the trace on the board. It's hard on the eyes but you can follow the trace back to its source. You might find a burn mark or a cut. The board might not be ruined if you find something. People repair circuit boards. If you put the board together yourself then the odds of a wrong/bad solder are higher, I'd guess. I'd go back and check my work.
By the way, you can buy inexpensive transistor testers. No idea which are good or not. Even Harbor Freight's cheapo multimeter has one. Really though, if there's no power on the board trace even a good transistor won't work right. Not an expert...
Just for fun - https://www.harborfreight.com/electrical/electrician-s-tools/multimeters-testers/7-function-digital-multimeter-59434.html