Jump to content
HybridZ

mclark999

Members
  • Posts

    104
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://biznbeyond.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    94925 California

mclark999's Achievements

Newbie

Newbie (1/14)

0

Reputation

  1. Maybe I am doing my fabrication in the wrong order. I have 350Z manual seats and cut off the seat sliders and welded 2" wide flat steel across side to side. I have them sitting on the stock 280Z rails, but I don't really see how to mark them or spot weld them while they are in the car so I can pull them out and final weld or drill and bolt it all together. How did you guys mark them up to get them aligned right? Revised this a bit. I can see how to mark the fronts. Maybe I just need to mark them and bolt them together and put them back in to make sure they work and then take them back out and do the rears. Did anyone slot their holes so they could adjust them a bit before final welding?
  2. Since it is so hard to get Ross's attention - I've been trying for ages to buy the brake lines from him - can you tell me how long the stainless steel braided lines are that he includes in his kit? I'll just buy the right length ones from Classic Tube.
  3. I was starting on installing an aftermarket brake proportioning valve and noticed that the wire loom running down the driver side is all melted. What is a good way to protect the wiring? Does it need to be relocated?
  4. Another friend just checked and said the same thing. In all the threads on getting turn signals to work, I don't think this particular topic came up. Lots of problems with turn signals not working, hazards not working or both, but not one on hazards not working with key off. Wiring diagrams are wonderful things. That and neck stretching under a dash. No power at the red/blue wire at the hazard flasher. Have power across the fuse block. Then noticed a 2 inch long red/white wire sticking out of the fuse block with the last half inch bare. Checked it and sure enough its hot. I know the guy I bought the car from was a dufus, but leaving a hot wire bare? Anyway, what I saw he did was connect a solid blue wire that's only hot when the ignition is on to the red/white wire heading to the hazard flasher unit. I wonder what he was doing and why? The wiring diagram shows that that red/white wire goes to the instrument panel and become red/blue when it comes out to the flasher. Maybe it feeds the clock and he didn't want the clock to run his battery down? No idea, but I got it fixed. Thanks for you help. I love this community. Michael
  5. My turn signals and hazard lights weren't working, so I read all the threads I could find and with a replacement hazard switch got both the turn signals and hazard lights working with the ignition on. Question I have is should the hazards work when the key is off? I have to pass a light and safety inspection to get my Velo Rossa licensed and don't want to get there and find out the hazards have to work with key on or off. Thanks Michael
  6. I know I could search through the archives, but I also know that technology and products change so I want current advice. I'm going to be gluing my Velo Rossa tub to my Z next weekend. What is your opinion on the best fiberglass to steel adhesive? Anything you would definitely tell me to avoid using? Thanks for your advice, Michael
  7. The link on the very first post doesn't work any more. Could and admin please fix it?
  8. Mine has the large round holes on the radiator mount, but no holes on the side/inner fender. There does appear to be a boxlike channel that goes from there all the way to the fresh air boxes above the firewall. Maybe I will get those tubes and cut the necessary holes. I am kind of liking the vent idea, but it's more work.
  9. Fresh Air Vents for Velo Rossa As I'm getting closer to completing my build, I noticed that the Velo Rossa hood covers up the fresh air vents on the Datsun. I'm looking for suggestions on how to get fresh air into the heating cooling vents. One idea I have is to run a duct from the front of the car into the air boxes, but that would clutter the engine bay. Another idea would be to put vents on the hood like the original GTOs had. I'm not a big fan of this. To me it looks like they forgot that the driver needed air and just stuffed some vents on. Kind of ruins the sleekness of the car. I guess a third option would be to add grilled vents in the hood above the boxes that sit flush with the hood. The attached pic is vent from an Aston Martin that could look nice. And it also occurred to me that I could punch a hole through the fender well and up into the air box and take advantage of the side vents behind the front tire. Anyone else have a thought? Any pictures you can provide would be great.
  10. Replica Spyder on sale in ebay. My link
  11. Ultra lightweight V12 Option Would save over 200 lbs from stock and fit easily.
  12. I bought some SS lines that have the right fittings on each end, but they are only about 12" long. With the rear tires off, I can raise the suspension high enough that they bind at the top of the range. I would buy some from Ross at Modern Motorsports, but he doesn't seem to be around anymore. Anyone know where I can get longer ones?
  13. What a happy sight. Everything renewed and ready for when the struts come back from the welder. What I ended up doing is bolting the sway bar to the car as usual and then with the end links in place, I put a long piece of pipe on the top and wedged that up in the strut tower where the strut would normally go. Then jacked up the lower control arm which squished the bushings enough to get the nut on.
  14. Yes, I'm using all the new hardware that came with the end links. I think I will try a combination of compressing the top two bushings with a clamp and jacking the control arm up to squeeze the bottom. I had not thought of that because the repair manual instructs to put the end links on and then clamp the sway bar to the body. Thanks for the advice. Michael
  15. This project has been one of the more humbling ones for me. What I think will be simple becomes... I'll stop whining and ask the question. I'm installing Energy Suspension polyurethane end links on the front of my 280z using the stock sway bar. I can't get everything compressed enough to get the nut on the bottom. The poly bushings have a raised portion on them that is supposed to seat inside the holes on the sway bar and the lower control arm. The raised part seems too large in diameter to fit into the sway bar hole and the lca especially. I think that's partly why I can't get the whole thing together. Please share your experiences in how to get this compressed enough to get the nut on. Thank you, Michael
×
×
  • Create New...