rx8ss

Have you got it on the road yet?

Just a couple of more.

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Some pics of the header install. It went amazingly well considering that the headers are not 280z specific. Great fit, looks good.

If it is bent, it is wrong. Wheel or control arm/strut that is bent needs replaced. As said before search the suspension area. More info than you need, and lots of good info there for the taking. Good luck.

This is a personal recomendation and nothing more. Leave it stock, headers, not less than a 3" exhaust, custom tune, auto. The reason for the auto is that the 6 speed will require a lot more work, but the double over drive is nice and shifting a lot is a pain. Remember that LT1 cooling is a little bit different so hook it up correctly for good cooling.

What are going to use the car for? Drag racing Street/drag Street Show Road racing That is the best place to start. Yes you will need a book for your lt1. There are e-bay stand alone harness's at a good price it the best. Auto's are easier on the rear end.

What did you come up with? I have a set of borrowed S&S long tube headers and they do hang down more. Which I do not mind to get the long tube design. Did S&S go under?

Just a question. Are you sure your vacuum harness is connected correctly. I have worked on several LT1 cars and found that the harness was not connected correctly. This will cause a premature failure as well as using a multi spark booster such as MSD, Accel, or anything. Due to the close quarters of the small space of the cap and rotor in relation to the opti sensor causes major problems. The multi spark systems increase the o-zone levels in the cap thus reducing life. Make sure the bottom hose goes to a vacuum source and the top hose goes after the air filter but before the throttle body. If you can, after you remove the opti that failed. Take the rotor cap off and look at the inside of the cap for any rotor contact. Then look at the rotor and inspect it for breakage or missing retaining screws. Some use screws and some are thermal weld. Please post findings, I am working on a different design and need more input. I have several bad ones and each one is slightly different, but same root cause. Thanks

Keep us posted on progress. Looks good. I have forged/splayed 383 LT1 in the works. I will either put it in the 280z or my camaro. Depends on how the carb engine does at the track.

Update, the rear bushing are the alum MCA/derilyn and fully adjustable. Found that these things can do toe and slight caster. And becuase of the camber plates I have a fully adjustable rear. The bushing were set for full toe in. Once adjusted for 0 toe and camber and let the caster just end up where ever. That increased my fender/tire clearance by a 1/2". So now it has plenty of room to grow. Launches on the street nice and straight and rides way better. Thanks for all the input.

I used the ones from a 4 gen f-body. .409 knurl 12 x 1.5 thread if I remember right. Stock knurl is .407 Use a stud installer for best results, that way they seat much better and you will not kill the threads.

I did something simular, I removed the brake cyl and ground some extra clearance to put them in.

Yes, I have camber plates, the alum rear bushing, and derilyn front bushing. So the suspension very stiff and unforgiving, and clanky. With that said, time to roll fenders to keep my slicks.