Cal Poly Zmanaustin

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Very impressive work and creativity.

+1 the Tomei Stuff is expensive but done right.

I agree with you Joel. I think you will like that setup and think the R230 setup is overkill for my needs: road racing and cruising. My setup is a little different. I am running an S30 with an RB30 which has a lot of torque relative to the shorter stroke RB20/25/26. My rear setup: CLSD 4.11 Long nose R200, bored out 280Z housing with Z31 stub axles/companion flanges and CVs with custom chromoly half shafts. My setup was designed for strength and ease of finding/replacing parts since is all factory parts. I am running the RB25 transmission and I think the 4.11 is too short. I could just as easily get away with a 3.7 CLSD. If I were running an RB25 or RB26 I would want the 3.9 or 4.11 and be leaning toward the 4.11. Regards, Mark

Karim aka Racer98 on the forum has a very good reputation. He is in Socal

I have a '72 with Glass in Socal.

I am curious if your brakes are warm/hot when this is happening? The R4s will pull your front calpers as described if they are cold as they would not be in the correct operating temperature range. These pads are definitely not for street because they don't get hot enought to be in the correct operating temperature. Differing loads on cut springs could exaggerate this as others have stated. You might want to test this before you swap out your caliper. Good Luck.

I would be very careful with this thought process. I don't totally disagree, but I think its too general of a statement. You can cut cost if you do the swap all stock with zero upgrades, but keep in mind lot's of us with the RB swap have done motor mods/upgrades, custom tuning, brakes, suspension, chassis and body mods that are anything but cheap. You cannot compare a stock body and weather aged chassis that may have questionable structural issues and rust to one that has been taken down to bare metal, repainted with a reinforced chassis. Some have $10K-$20K in the motor before even dropping it in the car. Again, you can use all used parts and not touch a used motor and spend substantially less. Point being there is a wide range of how much money are in these swaps. And if its going to be totally stock then is it even worth the money when a mildly built up L28ET can perform arguably as well for less? Just my .02 but it all depends on what you want in the end. Good luck.

check out this thread...http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/89839-300zx-5-lug-hubs-will-they-fit-240z/

Just to clarify. I designed my kit with with the MM hubs that were +3/4 offset. I had a bearing fail and one of my hubs was damaged. Ross inspected it and sent me a steel Z31 hub. He didn't have any more production hubs in stock and I didn't feel like buying another one so I swapped my out to the steel Z31 pentagon hubs with the +3/4 offset. The bracket I made all bolts up the same. I do not have a drawing of the bracket I made. Remember mine was for the Z32 caliper on Z33 track rotors. If there is enough interest I will make a production quality run of mine rather than the rough one I did. If you want to talk more in detail send me a PM since I don't want to highjack the original posters thread, unless they want more specifics on what I did. thanks.

I was really just answering the basic question that yes you can use a Z31 hub on a S30 spindle. There are a million posts on this out there already. Yes, that pic is of Ross's hub. I am not using the hubs from Modern Motorsports as this is an older pic. I am using the Z31 +3/4 offset pentagon hubs. Mine is not a kit it is all custom. If you want to see more of mine check out my album but it is not necessary relevant to the original poster as he is interested in Z31 calipers not Z32 calipers on Z33 track rotors.

Pictures always help. This is a Z31 hub on an S30 spindle. I used Z32 calipers and Z33 track rotors. I had to make an adaptor. For the rear you have multiple options. The one I opted for was to use the rear Z31 stub axle in a 280Z rear housing (had it bored out for Z31 bearings) and used the Z31 flange for the CV axles. I thought someone on this board claimed to have the bearings to do this swap without any of the machining I had done. You might want to search. Again, this was the route I choose there are several other methods to get the 5 lug setup.

Totally agree. If its just a simple matter of $$$ the VQ is cheaper hands down by far.

Never going to happen.