Zcardiesel

I have a 75 280z 2+2 that's a project car in South central PA if you're interested. Let me know.

Haniel, I have a 75 280z 2+2 that is not rust free, but overall has little to light rust. 55k original miles and originally from Texas. Been on the east coast at least a decade. Car is in South central PA. Let me know if you're interested.

I actually am a member over there already. Been a member of that forum for over a decade, but traffic is slower over there so getting a response is harder. I did place an order last weekend through Nissan Parts Deal and even though it showed the diesel head gaskets as available on the parts callout screen after I ordered the gasket I got an email the next Monday saying the gaskets are no longer available. I emailed Cometic to see if the could make an LD28 head gasket seeing as they sell two different thickness gaskets for L-gas engines.

I was expecting to have to put in a request on this engine, but luckily you are right with them being able to cross reference another application. I will look into this and thanks for the advice.

Howler, did you find anything out with the L28 head studs and do you know if an L28 head gasket can be used on an LD28? Apparently diesel head gaskets are no longer available...

Thanks for your answer and doing the little bit of leg work to find out. If they are the same I would like to buy a set for a build.

Hi, I am wanting to know if the head studs for the L24-L28 gas engine will work on the LD28 diesel? Or if not is there a difference in diameter size between the head bolts on both engines? Looking to build a diesel and would prefer to run studs. Also, anyone ever get a price on studs to be made for the diesel through ARP? Thanks.

Ok, update on working on the car. Using the fuel injection guide and doing some testing I have confirmed that the fuel pump runs with the key in the "ON" position and when I open the flap on the AFM. Pulled the air intake pipe and air filter housing off the car to also look inside at the flap. Also in the testing they want you to unplug the ignition lead wire to the control unit and test it with a test light to see if there is power with key "ON". Is this wire plug a single wire that has a blue wire on one side and a white wire on the other? I unplugged it and think it's the right one but not sure. Also put my hand on the power relay when turning key back and worth and it clicks. That is supposed to confirm the fuel injection relay is good right? Looks like next step is to check power at the injectors or see if they click with the above ignition lead wire unplugged and then plugged back in. This certainly is a fueling problem...

I will recheck timing and last weekend when I worked on it I did not have a fuel covered spark plug when I pulled #1 out. NewZed, I did confirm I have spark when I took the #1 plug out and tied it close to the valve cover. Didn't check any other plugs, but if they are not covered I probably should try starting fluid. I will look into the contact points on the AFM and try to clean them. Did not think about the fuel pump relay and where is it located? I know the pump runs, has power to it, and works. If I take the wire off the starter solenoid and then turn the ignition to "start" and hold it the pump runs as long as I'm holding the key. Thanks for all the help and advice so far...

I'm sure that's a problem and getting new, fresh gas in it would be a start. Shortly after I bought the car when I went to pull the drain plug on the tank it didn't flow but a few drops, so I hope the tank is not plugged or gummed up. But after I changed the original fuel pump with a good fuel pump, primed pump to get gas up to the filter, I did get the engine to start for 1-2 seconds but then shut right off. This was all done 4 years ago, now after changing the distributor I haven't even got it to want to fire or start. Could I have a bad AFM? I did not hear the fuel pump run with key "on" and the flap held open...

Update...I did end up changing my fuel pump shortly after I bought the car. I have now finally got a chance to get my hands back on this thing and work on it. I bought a good, rebuilt distributor for the engine a while ago because last I noticed the wiring for the distributor had been chewed in half. I just got done installing the replacement distributor today and the engine still will not start. I have confirmed that the fuel pump is working and pumping fuel up to the fuel filter and out into the rubber supply line going to the metal line that feeds the injectors. With the solenoid disconnected at the starter and turning the key to start you can hear the pump run. I can hold the key in this position for one whole minute and the pump runs that whole minute. Are the injectors supposed to make a clicking noise when you unplug and then plug them back in? I am getting no sound...and with cranking the engine as much as I have I know I have air. Pulled #1 spark plug out of the head, plugged the wire back in, and checked for spark against the valve cover. I had it while cranking, so I have spark, air, and what I believe to be fuel. What could be the problem here? Thanks for any help.

Interesting to know and thanks for the links. I see the first one clearly just bolts right in with the pictures of it in a car.

Does anybody make a bolt-in intercooler for the Z's?

I'm looking for a good condition distributor wiring harness that is a blue 3-wire twisted trio running from the distributor over to a plastic box on the front driver's side inner fenderwell on the Z in my signature. The harness has been chewed in half by mice, so I am in need of a replacement. For an L28 engine in a Datsun 280z 2+2. Thanks.