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Zcardiesel

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Everything posted by Zcardiesel

  1. Hey Tony, I had some questions on using a rear sump oil pan on an LD28 engine. Can you send me a pm? Thanks.

     

    -Sal

  2. I have a 75 280z 2+2 that's a project car in South central PA if you're interested. Let me know.
  3. Haniel, I have a 75 280z 2+2 that is not rust free, but overall has little to light rust. 55k original miles and originally from Texas. Been on the east coast at least a decade. Car is in South central PA. Let me know if you're interested.
  4. I actually am a member over there already. Been a member of that forum for over a decade, but traffic is slower over there so getting a response is harder. I did place an order last weekend through Nissan Parts Deal and even though it showed the diesel head gaskets as available on the parts callout screen after I ordered the gasket I got an email the next Monday saying the gaskets are no longer available. I emailed Cometic to see if the could make an LD28 head gasket seeing as they sell two different thickness gaskets for L-gas engines.
  5. I was expecting to have to put in a request on this engine, but luckily you are right with them being able to cross reference another application. I will look into this and thanks for the advice.
  6. Howler, did you find anything out with the L28 head studs and do you know if an L28 head gasket can be used on an LD28? Apparently diesel head gaskets are no longer available...
  7. Thanks for your answer and doing the little bit of leg work to find out. If they are the same I would like to buy a set for a build.
  8. Hi, I am wanting to know if the head studs for the L24-L28 gas engine will work on the LD28 diesel? Or if not is there a difference in diameter size between the head bolts on both engines? Looking to build a diesel and would prefer to run studs. Also, anyone ever get a price on studs to be made for the diesel through ARP? Thanks.
  9. Ok, update on working on the car. Using the fuel injection guide and doing some testing I have confirmed that the fuel pump runs with the key in the "ON" position and when I open the flap on the AFM. Pulled the air intake pipe and air filter housing off the car to also look inside at the flap. Also in the testing they want you to unplug the ignition lead wire to the control unit and test it with a test light to see if there is power with key "ON". Is this wire plug a single wire that has a blue wire on one side and a white wire on the other? I unplugged it and think it's the right one but not sure. Also put my hand on the power relay when turning key back and worth and it clicks. That is supposed to confirm the fuel injection relay is good right? Looks like next step is to check power at the injectors or see if they click with the above ignition lead wire unplugged and then plugged back in. This certainly is a fueling problem...
  10. I will recheck timing and last weekend when I worked on it I did not have a fuel covered spark plug when I pulled #1 out. NewZed, I did confirm I have spark when I took the #1 plug out and tied it close to the valve cover. Didn't check any other plugs, but if they are not covered I probably should try starting fluid. I will look into the contact points on the AFM and try to clean them. Did not think about the fuel pump relay and where is it located? I know the pump runs, has power to it, and works. If I take the wire off the starter solenoid and then turn the ignition to "start" and hold it the pump runs as long as I'm holding the key. Thanks for all the help and advice so far...
  11. I'm sure that's a problem and getting new, fresh gas in it would be a start. Shortly after I bought the car when I went to pull the drain plug on the tank it didn't flow but a few drops, so I hope the tank is not plugged or gummed up. But after I changed the original fuel pump with a good fuel pump, primed pump to get gas up to the filter, I did get the engine to start for 1-2 seconds but then shut right off. This was all done 4 years ago, now after changing the distributor I haven't even got it to want to fire or start. Could I have a bad AFM? I did not hear the fuel pump run with key "on" and the flap held open...
  12. Update...I did end up changing my fuel pump shortly after I bought the car. I have now finally got a chance to get my hands back on this thing and work on it. I bought a good, rebuilt distributor for the engine a while ago because last I noticed the wiring for the distributor had been chewed in half. I just got done installing the replacement distributor today and the engine still will not start. I have confirmed that the fuel pump is working and pumping fuel up to the fuel filter and out into the rubber supply line going to the metal line that feeds the injectors. With the solenoid disconnected at the starter and turning the key to start you can hear the pump run. I can hold the key in this position for one whole minute and the pump runs that whole minute. Are the injectors supposed to make a clicking noise when you unplug and then plug them back in? I am getting no sound...and with cranking the engine as much as I have I know I have air. Pulled #1 spark plug out of the head, plugged the wire back in, and checked for spark against the valve cover. I had it while cranking, so I have spark, air, and what I believe to be fuel. What could be the problem here? Thanks for any help.
  13. Interesting to know and thanks for the links. I see the first one clearly just bolts right in with the pictures of it in a car.
  14. Does anybody make a bolt-in intercooler for the Z's?
  15. I'm looking for a good condition distributor wiring harness that is a blue 3-wire twisted trio running from the distributor over to a plastic box on the front driver's side inner fenderwell on the Z in my signature. The harness has been chewed in half by mice, so I am in need of a replacement. For an L28 engine in a Datsun 280z 2+2. Thanks.
  16. Thanks for your reply. Working on the car and figuring it all out has been on the back burner because I got about 2 or 3 other projects I'm working on at the same time. But, to clear things up this is with the good, used fuel pump I bought back in July (which is actually a turbo engine fuel pump, but it bolted right in place). And as a matter of fact when I replacd it the fuel line that goes from the outlet of the fuel tank into the pump did not pour gas out when I removed it. I got a brown looking fluid mix when it came out of the inlet nipple on the tank itself, so I think I do have a restriction right there that isn't going to allow fuel to flow like it should. What is a good treatment I can put into the tank to clean or free it up? Maybe that is my problem all along, but I should take the pump out to test it w/ 12 volts to see if it pumps gas. Oh, and in that earlier post when I applied the voltage directly to the fuel pump that was the original pump. I never did try to see if it would make noise with the solenoid lead removed from the starter like the turbo fuel pump I replaced it with does. Maybe my original pump was fine, so I'll have to test it to while I'm at it testing the turbo fuel pump. I hope it's the pump or the tank just clogged, as the electrical system seems to have tested fine so far. I will keep my progress updated.
  17. It has been a long time since I've tried to work on the Z to figure out the problem I'm having. I worked on it today and found when I pulled the solenoid lead off the starter, turned ignition to "start" that I got a sound back at the fuel pump to tell me that the pump is good or working fine. I held the ignition key to "start" for 45 seconds or so to see if fuel would be pumped up to the fuel filter but got nothing and still is bone dry. I did remove the #1 spark plug from the cylinder head to check for spark by grounding it to the valve cover and did spark when I tried to start the car. The engine is not priming as far as fuel is concerned. I think it's an electrical issue with a relay maybe. The power relay at the left kick panel area does click when the ignition is turned to the "ON" position and again when turned to "start". What is the easiest way to test the fuel pump relay? Can I remove it and test the resistance at the contact pins to find out if it's bad or not? With the solenoid lead installed on the starter and the AFM flap not touching the contact the car still just cranks. Any advice as this is my first gas car or truck I've worked on? Thanks.
  18. Hi Tony, and thanks for the very wise advice. I do have to agree it's almost like I haven't quite trusted myself in being confident in the diagnosis of the bad component. But I do have to say I'm going to go ahead and replace the fuel pump and see what happens. I do think I'll have a running car after it's said and done. Thanks and appreciate your post. Sal
  19. Any other advice on what I should do or should I just replace the fuel pump? Because that's what I'm thinking is the bad component on the car after doing all the testing I've done to this point. Thanks.
  20. Another update, tested for voltage back at the fuel pump wires and with my sister cranking the car over to the "START" position I am getting voltage back there but it's only about 8 volts. Battery is good and makes about 12.4 volts sitting there, so does the fuel pump need to see at least 12 volts or can it run on that lower amount?? Using the EFI bible I found that my fuel injection relay does click when the key is turned to the "ON" position and did all tests afterwards on pins 1 and 10 for battery voltage, 5, 16, 17, and 35 for good continuity, and tested pins 14, 15, 30, 31, 32, and 33 for battery voltage to the injectors. Only problem I had there was that pin #32 tested about 10.5 volts while the rest of the pins for the injectors tested at my correct 12.3-12.4 volts. But, I don't think I have any faulty wiring or a bad ECU. Getting only 8 volts back at the pump kinda worries me and after testing at the wire studs on the fuel pump I removed the wires and applied 12 volts from a good battery to the terminals and the pump didn't run or make any noise? Any thoughts so far and thanks.
  21. Well, took a look at the car on Saturday a little bit and first thing I did was go out and remove the black plastic cover on the AFM. I turned the flap assembly so the arm was not contacting the contact to disengage the fuel pump and tried starting and still no start. I also looked at the "EFI bible" that I found through one of the links above and it is pretty much my answer to diagnosing the car to get it running. One of the first tests they want you to do is when you turn the key to the "ON" position put your hand over the combo EFI/fuel pump relay at the top left kick panel to hear/feel if it clicks or not. Then the steps for testing afterwards depends on if it does click or not and I found that my relay assembly does click when key is turned to "ON". The only bad thing is I'm not too good with reading wiring diagrams so it might take me a long time to get this thing figured out. The next step I have to do is remove the 35-pin harness plug at the ECU to do tests at certain pins to eliminate each component that's good to find what's bad. I'm just too excited to get the car running, but know it will take time testing the ECU harness plug. And wow for a 75-76 car and electronics this is really kind of ahead of it's time as far as the EFI system is concerned. Thanks for all the help provided and will keep you all updated. Sal
  22. Thanks for the replies. The car is a 76 280Z, the one listed in my signature. NewZed thanks for the link and helpful advice and I do think after I test the fuel pump that the fuel pump relay would be the next thing to check or test. I have a factory 1982 Datsun Maxima workshop manual that goes into good detail about testing the EFI and fuel pump relays by checking certain pins on I think the control unit harness plug. I just hope it isn't the ECU (control unit) because that's probably not cheap to replace. That's the closest workshop manual I'd have to the Zcar and the Maxima uses the L24E engine, which is really very close if not having the same fuel system as what the bigger 2.8 has in the Z. So, I want to test for 12 volts at the fuel pump terminals w/ the key in the "START" position right? Thanks again.
  23. I have a Zcar that has the L28E engine with the EFI fuel system and wanted to ask what is the best way to test the fuel pump? I have a "no start" issue with the car where it will not start, but will crank forever provided there is enough battery power. I haven't had much time to look at it to diagnose the problem and I don't have a manual for the car to refer to, but I really think I'm dealing with an original pump that is just dead. When you turn the ignition switch to the "ON" position you don't hear anything at all from the pump and it's just quiet like nothing is going on as far as flow. Put all new filters on the car including the fuel filter, and when removing the fuel hose off the outlet side of the new fuel filter it was bone dry after cranking for two or three 20-30 second intervals. Not even a hint of gasoline smell from the hose either. Got under the car today to locate and look at the fuel pump to check to see if anything looked out of place and everything looks OK and wiring is not damaged or chewed. It has two wires coming down to contact studs on the pump itself and one wire is a green w/ blue stripe and the other is wire is black. Can I remove the wires from the studs and apply 12 volts directy to the correct studs on the pump with a good battery? I figure that's about the easiest way to test, if there isn't a better way of course. The car has low miles for the year, so I'm sure it has to be something simple and the fuel pump really seems to be the bad part. Thanks for any help. Sal
  24. Hey, thanks for your reply. Will check it out further to see if I have spark at all 6 plugs. As far as the fuel pump is concerned where is the best place to buy a good, reputable pump I can closely compare to the factory Nissan pump or is an aftermarket unit best to put on now while I'm underneath replacing it? I didn't want to get into throwing too many parts at it without doing testing on it, but I don't have a factory workshop manual and I thought I'd get the best help posting here. We'll keep you updated with the progress on it.
  25. Maybe I posted this in the wrong forum, but nobody has any advice?? I appreciate any help.
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