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HybridZ

GMMTC

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About GMMTC

  • Birthday 08/07/1986

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    Saskatoon, Can

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  1. I have an L24 in my 240z that had an oil leak. I drove it a few blocks with very low oil accidentally and it stalled out on me. I filled it back with oil and drove it 3 more blocks to work, but it was running like complete crap, it felt like it was really struggling and low on power. So I thought it was toast and towed it home. I bought a spare engine that was bare, so I pulled my engine. Then I pulled the valve cover off both engines and noticed mine looks 100x cleaner and has all new valve cover, intake/exhaust gaskets, etc. The "new" engine I bought has oil caked everywhere on the outside of the block, but I know it at least runs because I bought it off my buddy who drove his car for a season before swapping in a rb25det. I also noticed on my original engine that one rocker arm near the middle was knocked off to the side, the little notched retainer thing that sits on top of the valve spring was sitting randomly in the corner of the top of the head. I can't put the rocker arm back on right now because the cam lobe is facing down. My question is could this be my only problem or is this a sign of more severe damage. Is there an easy way to check? Other than my engine looking cleaner, the other issue I'm having with swapping my "new" engine in is that there appears to be this vacuum tube out of the engine block that has a large hose clamped and runs into the top of a tube that connects the two sections of my intake manifold. You can see it here with the large opening and small opening that was capped off. Now my "new" engine has this removed, so I can't seem to figure out how to swap this tube thing over to the other engine block. I'm wondering if anyone has any suggestions, or can I just plug this hole in the middle of the picture in the block and plug it on the intake manifold without any issues? Or is my original engine not as messed up as I first imagined and would I be better off to just put that back in the car? Let me know any advice or suggestions you might have, thanks!
  2. Please post all the info and pictures with the S13 suspension swap front and rear. I want to do this to my 240z!
  3. My car has aftermarket weber carbs, and this breather has nothing attached to it. Is that ok or should there be a tube rerouted somewhere or a filter breather attached or something? -Thanks
  4. I have a dual weber DGV 36/32 5A setup, but it has some ghetto throttle cable setup that always sticks. I remember reading somewhere that I could possibly hook the stock rod/linkage type system to work with these weber carbs? I think I have all the stock pieces laying around that came with the car, I'm just not sure how it initially went together. Anyone have a factory diagram or detailed pictures? Anyone have any experience with throttle linkage setups for these carbs? -Thanks
  5. I just got my car running, it's a 1973 240z with the stock L24. Basically almost every time I want to start my car after not driving it for a while (a few hours or a day) I have to prime the carbs with fuel, then it'll start right up. It'll run fine after that and even if I stop for 30 minutes or something it'll start back up again. When I try and start it, first thing I do is floor it and then crank the engine over, usually I can hear it sputter once or twice and try to start, then it just cranks without any sputter. Only once I was driving along and it died on me and wouldn't start again. I would prime the carbs and it would start and drive a block and die again when the fuel I put directly into the carbs burnt up. After that happened I replaced the fuel filter and there was red gooey stuff clogged in there, possible rust? Anyways I drove it a few times since replacing it without issues. I read that the car has both a mechanical and electric (inline) fuel pump. Well I looked under the car and the electric fuel pump was there but not actually hooked up (looped into itself and wire was cut). Since it's only running off the mechanical pump, might this be why? I'm looking for input on which direction to go with to make it start everytime. (I could try to get a new inline electric fuel pump, or clean the mechanical one, etc) -Thanks
  6. I had someone interested in my carbs but they asked me what intake it had and I didn't know what to tell them. Can anyone identify this? The only markings I see are '470' in the closeup picture. And I apologize for the poor quality cell phone pictures.
  7. I got a L24 engine in my car and I have an oil leak near the front of the engine, kinda between the head and the block but maybe not. Pretty sure it was caused by having too much oil (1-2L over), would this be a head gasket or could it be something else possibly? -Thanks edit: After reading this thread, it might be a timing cover (maybe gasket)? http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=155712
  8. LOL that's one way to look at it. I weighed my options, for the price I just can't justify keeping them because I can use the money in my build somewhere else. I'm going to clean them up, find out what intake manifold is on there and put them up for sale.
  9. Thanks for the tip, his insight has been very helpful
  10. Which ECU/harness did you use and what modifications were necessary?
  11. What's the downside of a slower ecu? I'm not going to be going for mega hp and I'm trying to stay on budget. Chipped Z32 ecus are plentiful for ~$50 and if it'll work good with the vvt it seems like the easier/cheaper/better choice?
  12. That's way over budget for tuning, I always prefer to socket my own ECU and go that route. My plans aren't much, upgrade injectors, put a decent sized turbo on and get a decent power figure, nothing fancy or crazy. My whole budget is about $1k-1500 for the engine, tranny, bellhousing, ecu, harness and tuning depending on if the Z32 stuff will work or if I have to go the RB25 route. The Z32 seems to have NVTC, so maybe that idea will work good?
  13. It's from my buddy's '93 R33 so I'm assuming it's an S1. Would I need a Z32 TT ECU or would a N/A ECU do? Does the harness have to be for a manual or can an auto harness be modified to work pretty easily?
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