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Showing results for tags '240z'.
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After looking everything over and doing some digging I came to the conclusion that using 65 mustang hubs on 240z spindles is not a cost effective solution for big brakes. I am now looking into a ball joint adapter that bolts to the control arm of the 204z and uses press in 2014 mustang ball joints. I intend to use this in conjunction with 2004 Subaru wrx coil over struts to allow the use of 5 lug 2014 mustang hubs and brakes. Which are 5x114.3 The intent is to have the outer wheel mount flange be pushed out roughly 35mm.... effectively converting our cars from a "zero offset" wheel to a "plus 35mm" wheel... aka just like the 300z and the 240sx, Toyota supra etc... It's a front steer, rear caliper spindle just like the stock 240z, once I know what the bump steer geometry will be I will have a clearer picture of things. Someone could use a widebody or flared setup if they chose to run a zero offset wheel, or use cheap and readily available 350z wheels and have stock track width. Let me know if anyone has any input on this. Good idea, bad, etc...- 90 replies
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From the album: New Parts
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From the album: New Parts
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From the album: New Parts
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What options is out there for racing,that you guys have experience with? I am looking at these http://en.intraxracing.nl/merken/datsun/datsun-240z-260z-280z-(nissan-fairlady-z)/1k2-rally-tarmac/ i have no problem welding or fabrication -
Hey there, My name actually is Wesley despite my username, I've loved the Z series for an underwhelming 10 or so years. I'm new to the forum and I've dabbled in Classic Z Car forums for lotsa stock parts and rebuild resourcing. Recently I've been hunting and comparing prices on an RB25DET Series 2 (eng and trans) for my '72 240z who is lacking a working heart. I was recommend to this forum at a car event in Toronto, supposedly this is the hot spot for resto-mod and aftermarket Z builds! I don't believe this is the correct place for an introduction so i'll ask away. Has anyone purchased a used engine from a Toronto locale engine store, and what were your thoughts on service and product reliability? Additionally I am wondering if anyone has had good experiences with overseas JDM imports. I'm mostly concerned with accuracy of described product, product knowledge, and some form of warranty or guarantee. I've seen a 30-day limited warranty everywhere I've visited, and to be quite honest I will likely take the whole month to do the swap. That said, I may not be able to run the engine for testing before my warranty's up! Thanks so much for the read, and a quick thanks to every poster in the RB series forum. SO MUCH INFORMATION Wes
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I have a 240z with rebuilt E88 head, rebuilt dome top su carbs and I just went from stock manifold with 2.5” exhaust pipe and cherry bomb muffler to a header. I kept the pipe and muffler as the weren’t stock anyway, I just added a flexible connection from the collector to the existing exhaust pipe. Actually now I wish I didn’t do this modification. It’s really noisy and I’m not sure that moving away from the OEM cast iron exhaust manifold was a good idea. It seemed to do the job... any comment on the performance improvements or lack there of? One other point - within 6 months I had a fuel leak right over the header pipes even with all new fuel lines. It totally cooked the new fuel lines from the float bowls to the jets. They were cracking and perished. Dangerous. I have since replaced the SU carb fuel lines with correct parts, and modified the heat shield with an additional aluminum plate which sits under the fuel hoses/jets. I also added some heat wrapping to the fuel lines. Makes tuning more of a chore, but gives me peace of mind. Anyone have a solution to the header noise issue? Add a resonator? Change the muffler to a better one? I can tig/mig weld so would buy parts online and do the install myself. I’m not a boy racer (nearly 60) and it sounds like an F1 car now when I put my foot down. Yeah, I know- some of you would think that was a ‘bonus’. Richard
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Did some digging around, and I'm going to get an adapter set made to adapt the 240z spindles to s550 disc brake mounting points. This are massive brakes that sell for pennies on the dollar. Good for the guys with 800 hp ls v8s and 2jz setups. Going to use 65 mustang hubs which have the same A2 and A6 inner and outer bearings as the 240z spindles. Still got some fitting to do, more to come later. We are talking 4 piston 14 inch brakes for under $200 sometimes. Or 15 inch monster 6 piston brembos setup if your heart desires. Anyways, let me know if anyone would be interested, I'll be building the setup for my own 240z, but if 5 or 6 people want some, I will make extras. I did something similar for 1968 dodge chargers and people love them. Made an adapter that allowed use of 2014 mustang brakes on drum hubs and people have been buying and using them with great results, so I'm not new to designing something that works and offering it to people. I'll post pictures as I make progress. Currently dealing with a child who has a fatal heart defect so this may take a few months, but this is something I'm seriously designing right now to go along with the super 8.8 rear irs conversion I'm developing... The idea is to have a balanced braking system off a 2015 mustang complete, front and rear, no mismatch.
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Picked up a recently rebuilt L24 and E31 head. Block bored slightly. Head rebuilt to stock specs. Plan to run triple DCOE 40s w/ Mallory Unilite ignition. Would like to upgrade cam without doing additional work to the head. What cams would work with stock springs/lift?
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I need some help. I purchased a Skillard s30 splitter for type 1 air dam and can't seem to install it. Here's my combo: 73 240z MSA urethane air dam - http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic02a01b/50-1411 Skilard Splitter - https://skillard.com/products/240z-260z-280z-front-lip-splitter the problem? The bolts that should go into the core support aren't the right size The sway bar is in the way The biggest problem, the splitter wont even mount up flush onto the core support, its off by many inches The air dam appears to be way lower that those of the pictures I've seen, so when i pull up the splutter to the bottom of the air dam, it doesn't come up to the core support to allow it to mount up. One thing I know will get in my way - the previous owner hacked in some radiator supports that are lower than the stock core support - so I'll have to make some adjustment there. Does anyone have pictures of the core support and the mounting holes I should be using? Does this air dam even work with the splitter? Did i completely F it up by buying two incompatible parts? I'll try and take some pictures but without more hands it'll be hard to show the gap... Helps!!! -
hello everyone! im new here but ive had my 280 for 2 years now. the engine turns over but it will never fire up. ive switched out plenty of relays and electrical components, cleaned out the fuel lines and installed new fuel pump. ive just decided to scrap the EFI system and switch to carburators. i was wondering if this would be the right place to ask the right person for some good but affordable carbs that will fit onto my 280z (cali model) thanks
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Hey all, Firstly, I recognize that this is ground that has been tread and re-tread within the forums, but I am not finding an answer to my specific questions in older posts and am seeking clarity from the wise. With that said: Tokico no longer makes the Illuminas (or maybe doesn't make anything anymore) and the last stock of BZ3099s and BZ3015s (originally sized for the 240Z front and AW11 MR2 rear) have evaporated from stock shelves the world over. Illuminas (especially these shorter models) seemed to be the consensus choice for a slightly lowered, slightly stiffened street S30. I have seen references in other threads that suggest that the Koni 6810s are stiffer and more appropriate for high spring rates and track/road race uses. What shocks, currently on the market, are the best match to the performance of the Tokico Illuminas? Ideally something adjustable within the stiffness range of a daily driver. -
Hello Hybridz Members! Three piece spoiler for Datsun s30 240z 260z 280z Product is made from fiberglass with a flat black primer finish. Hence, spoiler is not a finished product ready for paint. This spoiler has 2 mount holes in center piece and 2 on each individual corner. It also has 2 threaded inserts in center piece and 1 on each individual corner.Quality and fitment are really good, all spoilers are brand new and never installed. some modification might be needed for perfect fitment. Price $280 shipped! - I can provide a discount for a group buy (5 minimum) Item ships from California* Local pick up available Payment: Paypal or cash for local pick up Any questions please feel free to send a PM
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When you guys have done a 240z to EFI conversion whether it's MS or stock ECUs where do you route the EFI harness through the firewall? Do you cut a new hole near the brake booster or repurpose another hole? Looking for ideas. Thanks
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From the album: 71 240z
Getting the hood ready for some paint. -
From the album: 71 240z
The under side of the hood painted flat black in the center and gloss on the edges. -
From the album: 71 240z
Tried to clean up the steering wheel. -
From the album: 71 240z
After putting everything back on it's looking much better. I really need to take care of that signal light though. -
I currently have a 240z with a chevy small block installed but am planning on upgrading to an ls3. The car has upgraded suspension but when going on the freeway the car drifts side to side with no steering input and I think this may be do to the weak chassis. Would it be worth it To sell the car and upgrade to a 280z which I have heard has a stiffer chassis and do the engine swap into that car instead of the 240z?
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From the album: 71 240z
I put most of the front pieces back together but I'm waiting to paint the underside of the hood so I can adjust it while the grill is off. -
From the album: 71 240z
Painted horn and hinge. -
From the album: 71 240z
Cleaning up the radiator support area. -
From the album: 71 240z
Front nose panted. -
From the album: 71 240z
Parts taken off to be cleaned up and painted. -
From the album: 71 240z
After cleaning up the horn, hinge and hardware.
