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Showing results for tags '240z'.
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Hey, i was planning on getting Work Equip's 03 replicas for my Z -Cosmo Racing Coilovers (already installed) -15x8 et0 FRONT (wheels that i'm planning to buy, equip's 03) -15x9 et0 REAR (wheels that i'm planning to buy, equip's 03) I'm planning to buy them and go with the 205/50/15 or the 225/50/15 to have some stretch and fit under my stock fenders, i'm currently on Cosmo Racing Coilover's for s30 that they can be dropped on 3'' Let me know your answers and if you have pics it would be better.
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Hey guys, I have my 240z stripped all the way down and working on fixing some body issues before rebuild. I have replaced the roof skin as I had an aftermarket sunroof and wanted a slicktop. I'm wondering if I need to replace the entire section of the rear bumper/valance that goes all the way up to the hatch or just cut and patch the damaged portion. I don't have any experience with body work so not sure what the best approach would be. There is a very small ripple in the floor of the hatch and the very end of the frame rail has a little wow in it. Also looks like the right taillight frame is slightly bent. See pics. Thanks in advance! Cheers!
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I recently bought my first Z, a 1972 240z with a pre-done L28 swap that, according to the PO, is stroked to 3.0 liters with forged internals and an upgraded cam. It's been a great car, however it runs on the original L24 carbs which have trouble supplying the necessary fuel throughout the rev range, and completely maxes out at 5,000 rpm. It is frustrating having an engine with so much potential for decent power that is held back by the carbs, so I'm curious as to what direction I should go with this project. I read on some long-winded article that I can either modify the carbs with larger needles and other components, have rebello bore them out, or go with an EFI system. I like the idea of EFI because I live in, and will most likely be going to college in a cold climate and starting the car is a difficult task. As I understand it, the engine was built with low compression by the PO for the eventual addition of a turbo later on (which I plan to do too, just a few years from now) and I'm told that adding a turbo to EFI is easier and more reliable to run than turbo+carbs. The PO also has a "manifold and actual rail and body for injection" that he is willing to give me a discount on should I go that route. So, I'm curious as to how difficult and costly it would be for me to make the switch from carbs to EFI, and whether or not the current carbs would be able to be modified to work with the current engine demands without a liberal amount of work. Also which would be the best in the long run for the eventual addition of a turbo? Thanks, Jack
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Picked up this non-running '73 240Z in Wisconsin, it came with an R200 (which I had planned to use, but am now going Ford IRS 8.8) and a mess of other stock parts. It looked to be perfect for what I was building and after media blast it's quite solid other than floorboards so here we go. Parts already here -LS3 TR6060 dropout from a 2010 Camaro w/ 30k miles (lookup Midway Mustang Dewitt IA) -CXRacing LS swap kit w/ headers and y pipe -CXRacing Front LCAs and TC rods -CXRacing adjustable coilovers -T3 Rear LCAs -Silvermine billet front 5 lug hubs -Silvermine front wilwood brake kit -Zedd FIndings Floorboards Parts to order -T3 rear backing plates -T3 rear strut tubes -Ford Explorer 8.8 Diff -Z32 rear 5 lug hubs and brakes -Wheels/Tires, S71B ~17x11 (5.5 backspace) and 17x9.5 (4.9 backspace). 315/35R17, 275/40R17 -Flares (TBD, maybe SSWorxs???) My rear end will largely be based on Sunny Z's build. Digging through the wheel forums it looks like 5.5" backspace on the rear is doable, any advice here on whether 5.5 is too much? The T3 plates should put the wheel in the stock location.
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Hello, This is my second post, my first was extremely vague and lazy on my part. I have always had a deep interest in cars and all things that move really. My experience with mechanics is limited to 2 semesters of high school auto class and minor experience with outboard boat engines. I also have rebuilt a 4 cylinder boat engine with the help of a friend who is a mechanic. I have basic tools,(screwdrivers, ratchet set, wire strippers etc.) and a home garage to work in with limited space and no large equipment such as welders or a lift, just the basic tools. I have only driven a manual car a handful of times but have some experience driving other manual vehicles. I really am set on getting a 240z. From my research I have found that it is a relatively easy car to work on, has excellent technology for its age and the L-series motors are extremely reliable and great sounding. The unique look and nostalgia of the car is really what sold me on making a z my first project. My project z would be garage kept and I would most likely sell my current car to buy a cheaper daily driver and use the leftover $ for the z. I have a decent budget for a college kid and plan on this project to take years, so my budget will eventually increase, but for now I am looking at approximately 25k. This must also cover the cost of buying the car. What Im looking to do is get a 240z (70'-74') in running condition with minimal rust. What I've heard is that rust can be the most unpleasant and expensive problem to deal with, and considering i have no means to do body work myself, i would like to avoid having to pay for major body repairs. I would like to begin with projects that mainly increase the reliability and drivability of the car. I would also like to use this car as a learning experience for whatever mods I can do myself. Wiring, electrical, filters, bushings, tires, coil etc. would all be things i would like to upgrade or improve and repair. Maybe a few years down the road if the frame and body of the car are sufficiently stiffened and the motor dies i will look to do an engine swap. But for now just handling and reliability mods,followed by suspension and, eventually I would like to do upgraded headers and exhaust for the l24 just to let it breath a little better, but not looking for a rocket ship. What I really want out of this project is a unique classic, not something that i will see 10 others just like it on a Sunday drive. A car that can be mostly for learning to build, fix and upgrade as well as help me become a better driver. Suggestions as to how much I should look to spend would really help. How much can I expect to pay for a running 240z with minimal rust. I would like to have some of the 25k leftover to do some of my own work with, because having a hand in the building of this car is very important to me. Also suggestions for what projects to start on or if i Should have the car looked over by a professional before starting any projects. I apologize for the long post and hope this better meets forum standards. Im am young an very passionate about getting into the z game. Thanks.
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I have been working on resurrecting my '72 240z w/ l28et conversion. In the past two years the car has come a long way. Due to lack of time and/or lack of expertise I am hoping someone can point me in the right direction on the following items remaining on my restoration to-do list: 1. Installation of interior control panel 2. Install of radio and speakers 3. Install of sound deadening 4. Fender roll or install of fender flares 5. Troubleshoot ignition/fuel issue (fairly certain it's a bad TPS) I'm in north/central jersey. If anyone has a trustworthy and reasonably priced mechanic that can do the work, please let me know.
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I am looking to get a 240z or 260z from 1970-73' and would like to do a complete resto-mod. I am limited on knowledge and experience as well as tools and space. I would like this car to have the reliability of a daily driver, though it will most likely be used as a weekend car. I am looking for a z with minimal rust that runs, i would like to upgrade the suspension, fix any body issues and interior issues, then finally swap the engine. What would be my best option for an engine swap? Things I am looking for in this car. -Street legal in New York -200-300hp -very reliable -preferably na but not opposed to turbo if it is more reliable - Have it professionally done - quick linear throttle response I have been doing a lot of research on swaps but could not come to a conclusion. Which engine/tranny combo would be best for my goals and what is a ballpark price range i would be looking at. I understand the price could vary greatly, but considering I need to buy the engine and all components necessary for the swap and pay a professional to install it. Thanks,
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This is my first post here so I hope I won't get flamed, but I have really been thinking about the possibility of swapping a ford ecoboost motor into a first gen. I daily a focus st, and the car is just a riot so the thought of putting a similar engine in a lighter rwd car is really appealing. The engine itself mates perfectly to a trans from a Miata, and ford sells a control pack (all of which can be had for around $2500) it also bumps power to a claimed 280hp/360tq at the crank on 91. I'm aware of the need to fab a bunch of crap, and run new fuel lines and such. To me it sounds like a pretty badass project, I'm open to any and all opinions. Thanks.
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So I started looking into engine swaps for my '73 240z. I have been leaning towards getting a front wheel drive vq30de and putting a 350z 6 speed behind it (using a 350z oil pan, clutch, flywheel, etc.). I know this won't make much power compared to a 350z vq35de but if I put a turbo on it down the road I'm sure it'll be more than enough power for me and it's a really cheap motor to pickup. I've been thinking I want to try to get megasquirt to work as I like the flexibility and ability to change virtually anything. It seems, though, that there aren't too many people running megasquirt with a vq of any type, is there any reason for this in particular? I know the vq35de is a very complicated motor electronically, but apparently the vq30de is much simpler. I suppose it would be a whole lot easier to get it running with stock electronics, so I may go this route but does anyone know if the ecu needs to be messed with before you can get it to run without all of the associated security parts like with a vq35 swap? Sorry if this is all over the place, I'm just trying to get some rough ideas as I have only been able to do some reading around online. I know a few people on here have done this swap and I have searched but I was hoping for a little clarification. Now my other questions revolve around the drivetrain aspect of the car. I suppose I should ask this in the drivetrain section but I wanted to get an idea of what people are running as far as rear ends are concerned with their vq swaps. I already have pretty upgraded stock suspension and have silvermine motors stage 4 rear brakes, so I'd like to retain as much of this as possible. I like the idea of putting an R180 out of an Sti in as I can retain my brakes, control arms, coilovers, wheel stub axles, etc. However, if I am running a vq30det or a vq35de, with possibly up to 300 ft/lbs of torque, am I likely to be breaking diffs or associated parts with the Sti R180, or has this been done? I'd like something reasonably solid, even though I'm not gonna have LS1 torque and I won't be drag racing or drifting. However, from time to time my left foot may slip off my clutch pedal while my right foot may accidentally be pushing down on the accelerator pedal, and I'd rather not blow up my diff when this accidentally happens... My plan currently is to get the Sti diff but use CV's, as at least one member on here has done. I already have 280zxt outer axle flanges so this wouldn't be too hard to do, but I'm just not sure if this will be solid enough for this engine. I'm just not sure if I should be planning to go for an R230 or Ford 8.8 or something. Hopefully this isn't too off in left field, I know it's much easier when there's more specific questions but if anyone has some general guidance for me on this that'd be awesome. Thanks!
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Hi Guys Can anyone tell me the engine origin of the codes cast on L6 crankshafts. Is there a list I could look up? I bought a lot of stuff from Electromotive in the late 80' early 90' when they were clearing out their racing Z program. I have 15 cranks of various type including P30 and E31, even some with no cast marks.
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So this is long over due. I apologize. I said from the time I started leaching off of Hybridz and the collective knowledge here, that I would post pictures as I started to progress. Well it has only taken a little over 3 years for me to start a build thread. Sorry. So I will try to do my best and keep a thread going of the progress, but I feel the need to start from the beginning. Always loved Z cars and in my teen years in the late 90's all I wanted was a 300zxtt, then I moved on to wanting a 350z and so on. Times changed had lots of different cars, and kind of forgot about Z cars. Planned on getting a project car, and debated between a factory five Cobra, or a 65/66 mustang fast back. All with the same theme. Old look new/newer running gear. A friend posted a picture one night of a light blue 260Z with ccw's, and My mind exploded. I had been looking at and trying to justify the price of a mustang at the time (30-45000 CAD) so when I started looking at prices of reasonable shape S30's I was blown away. I started searching and found a few in Canada. A beautiful one in Windsor- seemed high for price, a couple others (kinda rough) and then some down in the states. After hunting a bunch of ads, and becoming discouraged, I reached out to the guy in Windsor. He drove the car up 3 hours to me so I could see it, and we worked out a much better price. It is a 1971 240z. It was originally sold in Burbank California, and was imported to Canada in 2012 by the seller. He pulled it all apart found no rust - so the car was coated in por15. He swapped out the L24 for a L28 with an E88 head, and a 260 cam. loaded the new mill in with a 280zx 5 spd and an open 3.90 r180 from White head performance. Engine ran awesome and was pretty strong! All I needed to do was replace the brake drums and I was rolling.
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Budget is 15k tops currently in Washington state don't mind shipping the car I'm okay with working on the interior but would like a clean swap with the mechanical work somewhat done.
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About me I don't want to go too in depth and bore anyone, so feel free to skip. lol My name is Kyle. I'm from Oregon City, Oregon. I'm in the USAF so that's why I am in CA. My current car is a 2008 Honda Accord V6 Manual 6 speed. It's a fantastic and very reliable car. Nice interior and sleek looking exterior. Just a good all around daily. And its the first car I have driven with a stick, and boy did I love it! I have spent a couple years with it, but after increasing its power steadily, I realized the limits and problems with a forward driven car. Not to mention the absolute BS that is California smog. I was at the point of either spend the money on a power adder, or a new car. I decided it wasn't worth pouring more money into a car that had such limitations. Especially in size and weight, she just wasn't very good in the twisties and back roads, so I decided I wanted a Rear driven pre- 1975 car. After a length of time searching, I couldn't believe what an awesome find a 240z was! A small, lightweight, Japanese car, pre- 75, endless parts, huge forum support, the list goes on! I was sold! The Car While on leave back in Oregon for a week, after 3 months of searching for a good deal on a 240z, one popped up for sale for $3,500. Super cheap! It was a 1972 240z with a Chevy small block V8, with a 3 speed automatic. A lot of people had interest, so decided I was done searching, and ready to start building; I bought her outright. Here is the AD: The Good -V8 Swap -The Trunk area, engine bay, and I (hope) under fenders were sprayed with bedliner -Body panels are straight -Badge and side marker light delete -Its a 240z The Bad (As I have quickly, or slowly discovered) -The paint is awful, and needs to be redone (Huge amount peeling) -The windshield wiper doesn't work -The heater doesn't work -The Air Blower doesn't work -The dash was cracked in multiple places -The passenger door was missing the interior panel -The engine, differential, and transmission were pissing oil -The hatch strut was blown -The lights were all extremely dim -The car got less than 8 MPG -Seats are cheap aftermarket ones. Fit nice though actually -You have to SLAM. And I mean SLAM the doors to get them to shut. I'm scared I'll shatter the glass! -The passenger window won't roll down -Probably a lot more I'm forgetting So yes, the car needed work. A lot of it. Was it awesome to drive and own a V8 car? Yes. Yes it was. I only had a few days of leave left, and I sadly realized I couldn't take her with me. Especially with the gas mileage at aircraft carrier fuel consumption rates. On the last night, I took my friend out for a spin, and very soon after leaving the driveway we could smell something burning. It was too foggy to drive fast, so we turned around and went home. I ended up leaving the car at my friends garage, which happens to live only a couple houses down from my dads. Here is the car next to his yellow V6 Mustang: We pulled the windshield wiper motor, the dashboard, the heater blower assembly, cut out random disconnected (and unsafe) wires and taped them up, and cleaned and vacuumed any debris. I loaded the dashboard and wire harness into my car to take back to Cali so I could be somewhat productive for the next 6+ months. Later my friend discovered that the wire harness caught fire in the engine bay! And the harness I had, was melted in multiple places. I decided to scrap it. I will need an entirely new wire harness. What I have been doing Research. Researching like a crazy person. I have also been buying parts like crazy and shipping them to Oregon. Since I'm stuck here, I: -Fixed the Dash Cracks / Sanded / Painted -New Vents -New glove box setup and badge -Autometer gauges -Realized the wire harness I had was hopeless after attempting repair My Friend has been inspecting parts that I send him, and tinkering on the car. -Sold Engine / Tranny / Radiator / exhaust for 750.00 -Sold Bumper -Sold Fuel tank Has a total of 1k. So the car as a roller was 2,500. Even cheaper! What Happens Now I am taking 30 days of leave starting on 20July2016. I plan to: -Sell the Honda -Engine Swap the Z to an LS motor. -Make the 240z my new DD. Here is the car as it is today. My friend installed the $420.00 Fender Mirrors, and there is the photo of the horrible quality Retro-Spec spoiler sitting on the hatch just to see what it looks like: That's it for now. Later I will post shots of my excel sheet of costs, future plans, ect.
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Hello everyone! I hope you are all having a pleasant day. I recently bought a 1970 240z after saving money for a long time. I was excited and said that it will be easy, that I am gonna build it within the next few months. I was naive and after reading a certain post on this website, i was "enlightened". "For the newbie car guys on this forum.. New to building Z cars and etc.." Is the post I read. I now want to take my time to enjoy building the car and learn as much as i can through this "journey". I would like to mention that there is no budget concerning this project since I think it will last a life time Here I am now to ask all of you who have experienced building a Z. I ask you for all the advice you can give me and to answer any question listed below if you please. If you think there is a link that will answer or help me in anyway, go ahead and add it. 1. What would you recommend to have in a garage in order to modify a car in general? I am new to this so please list everything you deem necessary 2. What are the reasons you chose a certain engine? The Z i bought has an rb25de neo and I wondering about the positives and negatives about the engines (2JZ, SR20DET, RB26DETT, etc) 3. For a newbie like me, what would you recommend I do in order to gain more experience? 4. Where do I begin? 5. Which differential do you use and why? This is my first time posting so I do apologize for any grammer/spelling mistakes as English is not my first language. I also do not know what information am I missing in this post so, if there is anything you would like to know about me or the Z, please ask away! Regards! -
I picked up a 71 manual 240z. I can't get any spark from it at all. I have check the points gap which was .018. I have voltage to positive side of coil at both key on and start position. I have used a ohm meter to check that the plug on the distributor is grounded and it is when the point is closed. I have full battery voltage at the negative side of the coil as well as the wire from the coil to the cap. What would be the issue? A condenser of some sort?
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I'll stick this here knowing the subject has probably been beat to death already. Recently rebuilt mikuni 44phh carbs and added a Schneider 270-80f cam to E88 head, 2.6l block. Fuel pressure is at 3.5psi. The car started a little rough with a lot of backfire through the carb. I thought of the dizzy being 180 out but confirmed it wasn't. I have start to play around with advancing the timing. Initially it was idling at 0deg and rough, 2-3000rpm would hit 15-18deg and smooth out the roughness. Fuel pressure is at 3.5psi. I currently have the: Mikuni pilot screws are all out 1.5 turns. Idle sitting 1000rpm 15 advance at idle 2-3000rpm advance is probably at 30deg (off the scale) Still getting backfire through carbs particularly on cylinder 1 at idle. Next steps tonight are too sync the carbs, adjust with the idle on backfiring carbs - am I missing anything? I've attached an idle video and picture of jet sizes. Any input or comments would be helpful.
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Hello, I have been scouring the internet trying to find info on bucket seats from Bride Zeta III XL and the STATUS RING GT-X Now I know bride makes the rail/bracket for this car for the zeta type seat, and the planted or wedge makes brackets with status sliders /side mounts will work with the status seat. I am just having one hell of a time trying to find out if these seats will fit in the s30 240z as i can't see to find the definitive max seat measurements cheers!
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Hello! I have a 1973 Datsun 240z that I plan on putting an 800hp 2JZ in but obviously need to work on some chassis strengthening before I rip the thing apart with that much power. Here is a short list of items I found posted by the late John Coffey himself for a streetable car: 1. Seam Weld (every sheet metal seam overlap.) 2. Bad Dog Subframe Connectors 3. Weld-In Roll Bar. 4. Welded In Rear STB. 5. Triangulated Front STB. 6. Radiator Core Support Reinforcement. 7. Transverse Link Bracing Reinforcement. 8. RT Diff Mount. 9. Tubular Seat Mounts. 10. Box Upper Frame Horns to Firewall/Cowl. 11. Reinforce Pedal Box/Brake MC Mount. 12. Reinforce Front ARB Mount. 13. Reinforce Front Strut Tower to Frame Rail Junction. I plan on doing some competitive drag racing, roll racing, track days, and driving the car around just about everywhere! I have a very clean paint job on the car and the body is nearly perfect, so repainting the car/pulling out glass isn't really something I'd like to do. However, I think pulling everything else off the car and putting it on a rotisserie would make the seam welding much easier as well as the frame rails and such and I can live with that. I would LOVE to hear from you guys that have done this and if you were able to preserve the paint and glass on the car. This is a pretty big undertaking so I'd like to prepare myself as much as possible before jumping into this huge project.
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Gather around folks I'm building my dream car. Some may know me here, some may not. I've been building nissans for 15 years now. My last personal build started in 2009 on this forum but I stopped documenting after 2011. I just sold my entire setup to my best friend, which I also sold my 2nd 240z too. So I'm starting to document a new chapter in my build. I tore down my black car and we are completely rebuilding my friends orange one better than ever. The original setup was amazing, never let me down. R34 NEO motor, GT35R, Tein coilovers with edfc, clsd, axles, wilwoods.... etc. This brings us to my new build and it's current state on my rotisserie waiting to get massacred. I'll post some photos and get this ball rolling Donor car was an ever so gracious R33 GTR Vpec, 90% of parts came from the same car. I will be grafting front and rear sub frames into my Z chassis, including the AWD system, Brembos, suspensions (tein), Axles, Diff, etc from the GTR... I've even gone ahead and gotten the GTR pedel set and Master so she should feel as GTR as possible from inside. Steering column, steering rack all modern and hydraulic (and left hand drive ) I've collected 90% of the bizarre hardware associated with the awd system too. Also will be doing GTR gauges, chassis strengthening, new wiring, wheels, so on and so forth.... My old car was quite the track beast, I intend to make this one deadlier than ever. More so I just love building so I'm doing it Grab some popcorn, this ones going to take a minute!
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From the album: New Parts
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So I had bought an S30 air dam from Japan this past summer but never got around to mounting them to the car until this past winter. I originally got air dam with turn signal cutouts because I was planning on doing front turn signal swap and going for a 240z set, now I'm not so sure. Anyway, upon install I realized that the air dam doesn't come close to the sitting flush against the mounting points near the headlight buckets. At first, I figured it might be because there's extra material on bottom of the mouth of the air dam but I assume that even after cutting it it still wouldn't sit flush on the mounting surface anyway. Additionally it seems as if the vertical faces on the inside of the turn signal cut outs aren't long enough to sit flush with the inner most edge of the mounting surface. Also when you have one side of the air dam seated flush along the fender lip, the other side is pushed away from it, which leads me to believe that the air dam's overall size is too narrow. Am I wrong in assuming that the 240z and late 280z air dams are similar in nature? I'm very close to just purchasing a fiberglass 280z air dam and redoing it in carbon. Apologies for the lack of light in the photos, I was doing this at about 11 at night.
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1971 240z "Kirin" Hi there! This is going to be my little Z build. Picked her up as a gift to myself after coming back from Japan. Today she sits eagerly awaiting to be fixed up and driven. After months of sitting I decided it was about time to get a move on it, so here we go! Last Updated: Dec 1st, 2016 - added a couple notes to self May 21st, 2016: Got it running after sitting for 9 months! Now it's sitting again -- Crank Keyway worn-out Note to Readers: I've linked most of the things I've purchased with their part number and a website. If you see something that isn't linked, or want to know where I purchased something, let me know! Exterior -Chassis: rusted -Body: dented steel panels, cracked fiberglass head buckets -Bumper: deleted rear bumper, ugly stock front still installed -Spoiler: Fairlady 432R Reproduction -Grill: Fairlady Z432 Reproduction (1 tuff z) -Paint : 918 Orange (original) -Misc: (order weatherstripping you lazy fool!) / (research rust prevention) / (research body work & paint) Interior Everything was stripped! Lend me your dry ice... Electrical -Battery: New Battery - Optima Red Top 25 / Autozone Universal Battery Mount / (correct size battery cables) -Alternator: upgraded alternator - 140Amp -Wiring Harness: stock (order pretty rainbow colored one - EZ) -Audio: no stereo -Lights: Headlights: Dapper Lighting 7" Classic V2 + White LED Halo (Halogen) / Tail lights: Dapper Lighting Sequential LED -Gauges: stock -Switches: stock -Sensors: Crank Pulley Flying-Magnets system -Ignition System: Distributor-less Simple Digital System Coil Pack Ignition -Spark Plugs: NGK Iridium IX Spark Plugs (PN 739-BPR6EIX) -Spark Plug Wires: 8mm Street Thunder; Spark Plug Wire; Custom Fit 6 cyl.; Black (PN 895-51090) (soon to be removed) -Misc: deleted external voltage regulator / (research windshield wiper motor) Engine & Exhaust - Acc. Belt: Napa (PN _____ ) -Intake Manifold: Mangoletsi -Carburetor(s): Triple Dellorto DHLA 45M -Jets: -Air Filter: K&N re-usable air filter (x3) -Cam: stock? not sure -Block: P30 L24 (Matching #'s) -Head: E31 - Ported (size) -Distributor: stock (delete & plug) -PCV Valve: Valve Cover Breather PCV K&N (PN 800-613) / Crankcase Vent Breather Filter PCV K&N (PN 800-406) (re-route to exhaust) -Exhaust: (research heat shield) -Misc: deleted random wires and screws in engine bay Cooling / Fuel / Oil -Radiator & Plumbing: Mishimoto radiator (PN MMRAD-DATS-70) / Upper & Lower Mishimoto radiator hoses (PN MMHOSE-DATS-70) / 1.75" Mishimoto radiator Tension Clamps / (install custom overflow tank) / (research fan shroud) -Thermostat: 160 degree thermostat & new gasket / 1/4" BSPT Alloy Steel Hex Plug w/ Plumbing tape (x1) -Fan: stock (order electric fan(s) x2) -Water Pump: stock (order gasket) -Misc: deleted manifold / carb coolant line & plugged thermostat housing hole / rotated 90 Deg elbow towards water pump - new 5/8" rubber hose [on order] hose brackets --- -Fuel Tank: stock (research fuel cell) -Fuel Pump: stock (research electrical/mech) -Fuel Regulator: none (research bypass 4+ PSI w/ gauge adapter) -Fuel Filter: Autozone (generic) -Fuel Rail: (removed) -Choke: stock (need to tuck) -Misc: new fuel sending unit, o-ring & lock ring --- -Oil Filter: Fram (size) -Oil Pan: stock -Misc: n/a Suspension / Tires & Brakes -Axels: -Suspension & Steering: clunk. clunk. clunk. -Braking System: I'll eventually stop..(all stock) -Rims: -Tires: cheap Goodyears (insert size) -Misc: n/a Drivetrain -Clutch: custom clutch hardline (3/8-24NPT to M10/1.0) -Master Cylinder: Tilton-76 7/8" Master cylinder (PN 76-875) / adapter (3/8-24NPT double flare to 3/8-24NPT bubble flare) / Girling reservoir, offset 7/16-20 outlet, 5oz -Slave Cylinder: Beck Arnley slave cylinder (PN 072-1258) w/ adjustable rod & return spring / SS clutch hose (PN 21-2170) (order mounting shims) -Throttle System: -Transmission: '77-80 "wide ratio" 5-speed -Differential: not sure yet -Misc: n/a Miscellaneous -AC: none -Heating System: deleted -Bolts: Replacing all bolts with ZCarDepot SS Bolt Kit (PN 650-000) -Hoses: Replaced most fuel vent hoses Going to have to backtrack a little, I hope you don't mind...
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Howdy! anyone know where i can buy a new or secondhand L28ET motor for my 240z? Ive heard this is an easy swap that is very beneficial. Thanks!
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Reading at 0 throttle is 220 and at full throttle is 1238. Is that correct? Keep losing signal, have traced it through a spade connector that was loose. Once I have reset the signals is as above readings. Throttle application seems accelerated, as in 1/3 is half.
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As the title suggests looking for a z that's swapped clean would be a plus. As much as possible no rust. Willing to travel for the right one
