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Showing results for tags '280Z'.
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I pulled my engine and tranny last weekend while my kids and wife were out of town and now I want to restore my engine bay. I would like to know from those who have performed this swap what I can throw away. I would look at the photos of other peoples' engine bays who have performed the swap, but I'm not sure what has been hidden as opposed to demo'd/removed. Please assume: I will be keeping the AC system, relocating the battery to the back. Thanks to everyone, I have been using this, my FSM, and youtube to help make a lot of this happen. In case you're wondering, my car came painted like this. I'll be dreaming up a new scheme either to match or something else. Jeff Engine Removed
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Hi I'm currently researching swapping a KA24DE along with the KA 5 speed trans into my 280z and have questions regarding mounting. I plan on running this setup due to a turbo build planned. I've read the trans is able to be mounted via the stock mounts but I've also seen that its not possible and would like an answer to the debate. Im also planning on using McKinney motor mounts and was curious if anybody has any experience with them and what they think of them? Also, I've heard I may need a custom driveshaft and was wondering if that was true or not. I've read on a forum previous that I won't need to but I'd like to know if I need a custom one before I do the swap.
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Hey all, bought a pair of wheels with some positive offset, so I got a set of 25mm wheel spacers all around to make them fit. I went with the pair listed at zcardepot: https://zcardepot.com/wheel-spacer-set-pair-1.html I was hoping this would "ensure" that they fit all around (since zcardepot specializes in z-cars) but alas, the fronts do not. On the front (stock) hub, it seems that rubber-ish (might just be gunk lol) piece sticking out doesn't clear the center bore of the spacer. I need about 1/8" more clearance. See the following pics. Should I have expected this? Is there just gunk build-up on my car that needs to be cleaned off? What is this rubber extension anyway? Am I screwed unless I get new hubs? FYI - the wheels themselves have 73.1mm inner bore (~2 7/8") and would likely fit on the hub if they were correct offset. I have to use a hub ring to properly center them on the spacer outer edge. Gap when fitted: The center bore appears to be machined out to compensate, but it is just a bit too narrow: OEM wheel has 2 7/8" inner bore: Spacer has 2 5/8" inner bore: -
Hello Hybridz Members! Three piece spoiler for Datsun s30 240z 260z 280z Product is made from fiberglass with a flat black primer finish. Hence, spoiler is not a finished product ready for paint. This spoiler has 2 mount holes in center piece and 2 on each individual corner. It also has 2 threaded inserts in center piece and 1 on each individual corner.Quality and fitment are really good, all spoilers are brand new and never installed. some modification might be needed for perfect fitment. Price $280 shipped! - I can provide a discount for a group buy (5 minimum) Item ships from California* Local pick up available Payment: Paypal or cash for local pick up Any questions please feel free to send a PM
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I've got a 1975 280z with a stock suspension. This is the only Z I've ever driven so I can't really compare it to anything but I feel like the ride is pretty rough. I can feel every tiny imperfection in the road and if I hit any kind of hole or bump at a good speed it feels pretty bad. It gets very floaty on the freeway. I've got it on 215/55r16 tires. I don't race it or anything so it's just for normal street driving. I looked around at a bunch of other forums and from what I read it looks like Eibach Pro Spring Kits rated at 150lb in the front and 175lb in the rear is what people are suggesting, with Tokico HP struts. I was wondering if anyone is running this setup and could maybe say anything about it like if it isn't too rough for just everyday driving. Or if maybe something new has come out that I didn't find and anyone had suggestions.
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I currently have a 240z with a chevy small block installed but am planning on upgrading to an ls3. The car has upgraded suspension but when going on the freeway the car drifts side to side with no steering input and I think this may be do to the weak chassis. Would it be worth it To sell the car and upgrade to a 280z which I have heard has a stiffer chassis and do the engine swap into that car instead of the 240z?
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So about a week ago my car started to have issues when it got up to temp. It would originally start, idle, and run fine, but after the car began to get warm it would lean out like crazy (have a wideband installed) and there would be no response when throttle was applied under load. It did this for a few days until it decided to completely die on my way home from the gym. After a few minutes the car would start and idle lean on the side of the road, but then die immediately with any throttle (not under load). The engine is from a 1983 280zx turbo. After a little bit of research I'm wondering if it is my Crank Angle Sensor in my distributor, but I'm still very confused. I don't think it's a wet Throttle Position Sensor because I had that problem recently and I removed it/dried it out and the car ran fine. Also the symptoms are different due to not even idling rather than failing at 2000rpm. Short video with symptoms: https://streamable.com/nn9ls -
Hey guys, been a loooong time since I was last on here. I am getting back into my engine swap project for my 77 280z. I sold the engine out of the z this year and picked up pieces for the swap. I am shooting for the following setup 302 EFI, W/C T5, unsure about rear differential I have a W/C T5 already but it has no bellhousing, supposedly low miles I have an 86 mustang GT 302 but I just obtained a free, running and driving 2001 Mercury Mountaineer with a 302 that I am told is the best factory 302 I can get, so I will likely be using that for the donor I do not have a rear differential for the swap, that seems to be the only other BIG item that I am missing. I have the solidwork prints from the Laine swap website and will likely be using those to fabricate my mounts. I will be updating with pictures soon. Is there anything else I will need for the swap that I cannot pull from the Mountaineer? I was hoping I could use it's ECU and electrical system in the Z. I would like to be producing over 200hp/325ft/lbs at the wheels with this setup. I was told that the cam in a mountaineer 302 is actually a truck cam and I could gain a decent HP boost (at the cost of a little torque) by swapping the cam out of my mustang GT 302. Does anyone have any experience with this?
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Hey all, Recently looking at getting into older Z's. Was gonna do an L28ET swap as my first foray into engine swapping (given its apparent simplicity) but if I can avoid it I would rather do that and focus on the more "fun" parts for me (suspension, bodywork). I found a 1978 280z 5 speed with '82 zx turbo motor and oil cooler for sale locally. Guy has owned it since 2004, did the swap himself, and driven for ~3k miles a year. It is right at 100k miles and garaged when not in use. Looks like pretty much stock everything else (suspension, driveline, body, interior, etc.) Body is mostly straight but has a few quarter-sized holes as well as 2-3 rust spots spots. He is asking $9,995, what do you guys think is fair?
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Looking for l28 oil pan. I prefer if someone would contact me from SoCal that way I wont have to pay for shipping.
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MY FIRST BUILD! 1976 Datson 280z pictures of how it sits now are posted below. LOOKING TOO... * Install chevy performance shop connect and cruise LS376/480 with 4L70E *280Z LS3 Swap Kit for engine and transmission. SUGGESTIONS? Can I buy this online, if so where? *Install suspension that can handle 475 LB-FT... I NEED SUGGESTIONS?? [NOT looking to spend over $1,500] *disc brake conversion [rear] Does anyone sell simple bolt on kit for this, if so where? *cheap paint job [$1k - $2k] *Dyno mat the car *Install 225-50-15 tires *Install aluminum drive shaft. Can I buy this online, if so where? *cheap cold air intake [$500 - $1k] Suggestions??? *Aluminum radiator with high performance 11” fans [2x] I live in the desert lol *Add 20 gallon fuel cell without cutting into the trunk where the spear goes [if possible] can I use the OEM??? Also need fuel pump Suggestions? PLEASE DONT GET CRAAAZZZY WITH COAST [I'M NOT RICH LOL] SERIOUSLY THOUGH
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MY FIRST BUILD! 1976 Datson 280z pictures of how it sits now are posted below. LOOKING TOO... * Install chevy performance shop connect and cruise LS376/480 with 4L70E *280Z LS3 Swap Kit for engine and transmission. SUGGESTIONS? Can I buy this online, if so where? *Install suspension that can handle 475 LB-FT... I NEED SUGGESTIONS?? [NOT looking to spend over $1,500] *disc brake conversion [rear] Does anyone sell simple bolt on kit for this, if so where? *cheap paint job [$1k - $2k] *Dyno mat the car *Install 225-50-15 tires *Install aluminum drive shaft. Can I buy this online, if so where? *cheap cold air intake [$500 - $1k] Suggestions??? *Aluminum radiator with high performance 11” fans [2x] I live in the desert lol *Add 20 gallon fuel cell without cutting into the trunk where the spear goes [if possible] can I use the OEM??? Also need fuel pump Suggestions? PLEASE DONT GET CRAAAZZZY WITH COAST [I'M NOT RICH LOL] SERIOUSLY THOUGH
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Rough Idle and shuts off when braking
seiferzero posted a topic in Trouble Shooting / General Engine
So I have a 1975 280z that if I turn it on and let it sit it idles just fine, but as soon as I press the brakes it starts to idle very roughly and if I hold the brake down long enough without stepping on the gas it eventually just dies. Anyone have any ideas they could maybe help me with on this? -
Looks like the starter on my 1975 280z is going bad and before looking for a 280z starter I was wondering if there were any upgrades. I found another forum where someone mentions that a 300zx starter fits the 280z but it's an old post and no one ever went into detail or talked or asked about it after that one suggestion. I was wondering if anyone knows anything about doing this, would it just be a straight bolt on? Would it require any kind of rewiring? Should I just stick with a 280z starter? Thanks in advance!
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How's it goin? Well I have an issue with my 1977 280z 2+2, stock everything. I have run into the issue of the fuel becoming too hot and I just wanna know what others with the same or in the same general area. Any info/suggestions much appreciated!
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Hey guys, quick question. I have an L28ET in my car (with MS) and I am upgrading to supra injectors, the 7mgte ones. From what i have researched, they are 440cc and work with a pallnet 11mm rail, which I just ordered from him. I am confused as to what impedance I need. Here's what I currently believe to be true: L28ET injectors are low impedance, and require the resistor pack to make them work. 7M-GTE injectors are also low impedance, and should be used in my system with my current resistor pack. However, all the 7m-gte injectors on eBay (don't worry, not ordering from there) are listed as high impedance. I just don't want to order the wrong injectors, is there anyone who is running the 440cc injectors on an L28ET who can chime in to what their wiring system is? I don't want to order them before I at least have some answer.....There is so much weird and confusing information out there about this stuff. Thanks in advance!
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Hi my name is Harry and i am in the prosses of buying my first classic car, a 1975 280z. I have kept my head down and been reading a fair amount on diffrent forums about common problems with these cars. I plan on daily driving the 280z as stock untill i have the money to do what i want with it properly. So i was just wondering what are the things that i need to do first to try and keep the old girl as reliable as she can be. Ive read that there is some issues with fule tanks rusting and fule lines getting cloged. Im going to try and have a look in the tank with it still in the car as i dont have a garage at the moment so will find it hard to store parts like fule tanks ect. Obviously if the tank is full of rust then i will just have to remove it and get it sorted. Ive also read that there is a heat soke isue with the fule in the fule rail boiling after shut down of the engine after a few minutes. I dont much fancy getting a fan to cool this down so was wondering if heat rapping the exhaust would help this or i sould jsut get a nice new fule rail. The car i am buying has a very nice chasis with very little / no rust so this shouldnt be a big issue in the short turm. I am planning on a full body sand blast back to bear metal, repare and dammage/rust and respray in the future as well. All of the hoses are proabley ging to be my first job to change as i cant see 40 year old rubber not springing a leak at the worst posible time. I also plan on changing all of the bushing for the suspension soon aswell. My plan is for polly as i dont mind a harsher ride unless there is a reson not to do this. I also want to chage the springs and struts to slightly lower the car, only an inch or so as i think it looks nicer. Is there anything that i have missed or things that i need to do first? Any and all insite would be much appreciated. Apologys if i have spelt anything wrong, there defiantly will be, i just cant spell Second apology is for no pictures at the moment, my phone with the pictures broke and i have lost them. I should, fingers crossed, be getting the car in a month or so now and am getting rather excited. I live in the uk so any pointers to shops to buy parts from here would also be much appreciated as most are based in the us. Come on free trade deal with the us Edit. Almost forgot to say the obviouse, all fluid changes, filters and spark plugs. Do you think i should get new points and spark leads?
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Greetings from Montana. This is my first post so let me know if it's helpful. So my '75 Z has been sitting in a garage since 2013 on account of the clutch pedal lost its pressure and the fuel system was all gunked up with rust. I went off to school so I had no time to work on it. I came home this summer and have been working on it for a month or so now when I can afford it and have the time and finally this weekend it should drive once again! I came to the conclusion that the priority would be the gas tank and fuel system. So I dove right into draining the gas and stripping the tank from the car. What I had found next was a nightmare. Layers upon layers of rust in the gas tank! First thing I did was sloshed around quite a few nuts and bolts with some old gas and banged on it very carefully with a hammer to break some of those rust chips up. I drained what I could of the broken rust pieces and began my search for a cheap alternative for a rust removing chemical. Come to find out, white vinegar works wonders if you submerge and soak rusted metal for a couple days. I got 17 gallons of the stuff for 2$ a gallon at costco because you will want to fill the entire tank to prevent flash rusting on exposed metal. I filled the tank and sealed it all off with duct tape except for the small tube at the very top of the tank so it could breathe the fumes. I let it soak for 3 days like this and I would suggest placing whatever you are going to drain the vinegar into underneath the drain plug BEFORE you fill it because you won't be able to lift it yourself after it is full of 17 gallons, unless you are Hulk Hogan. Once you are satisfied with the amount of time it has soaked(anywhere from 24 hours for minor rust to 3-4 days for caked on rust), unscrew the drain plug and commence draining. After all but about a gallon or so has drained, grab hold of the tank and start rocking it back and forth and 360 degrees, slowly to get all the flakes to drain. You could bang on it with a rubber mallet or hammer again as well. Once it's all drained, take your phone camera and put it on video with the flash on and poke it inside the sending unit hole. You will be amazed looking around at how well the vinegar works. You will see mostly bare metal. Unplug all the holes and allow it to dry for a day or so. I taped an air compressor blower to one of the holes to give it a blow dry for about an hour right after I drained the vinegar. There will be flash rusting and there is nothing you can do to avoid that unless you wipe it clean with a rag right after it has drained, which is impossible with a gas tank. But don't worry the next step will cover that. Now go to your local car parts store and ask for a liquid gas tank liner, any brand will do. Make sure you read the directions and get enough, especially if you want to do 2 coats. They usually come in 1 quart cans that will usually only cover about 12 gallons. The brand I got was this way. For my '75 280z the gas tank is 17.2 gallons so I had to get 2 quarts. Once you are satisfied that your tank has dried completely, it is time to put your first coat on. Look inside your tank and you will see that it has a divider to the skinny part of the tank. For this reason, I plug all the holes except for the sending unit hole on the tall part of the tank and the gas outlet hole on the narrow part of the tank. This allows you to fill both halves without worry of missing a spot with the coat. You need a good funnel for this stuff. Fill the narrow half with one quart first because it takes longer. Then fill the sending unit half with the remaining quart. Plug the remaining holes. Very slowly roll the gas tank around in your arms 360 degrees on all planes for about 15 minutes or until you think every spot has been touched by the good stuff. It's kinda like the consistency of molasses and it dries like a rubber glove so be thorough. After rocking it around on all planes I would let it sit on it's bottom for 5 minutes then on it's side for 5 minutes then on it's top for 5 minutes then on the other side for 5 minutes and back again on the bottom. I did this for an hour or so while I was changing the oil. I wanted to make sure that bare metal would not show. Once you are satisfied, place it on top of some saw horses or an old cooler or something and place one of the liner cans under the drain plug and unscrew it. Remove all plugs so it can dry evenly. On all the small openings, I took my air blower and blew a small amount of air through to make sure the liner didn't plug them. I would highly recommend this. Let it dry for a day. Come back and check to see if it dried evenly. If there are bare spots, do a second coat, if you have enough left over liner. I did anyway. Let it dry for a day and a half just to be safe. This next step isn't necessary but I recommend doing it since you already have the hunk of junk out. Get a can of rust proof spray enamel from your hardware or car parts store. You could get any color you want. I just got black cause I don't know what the paint job will be on the car yet. Tape all the holes, Air blow it free of debris and sand the rusty spots, air blow again, then commence spraying the enamel. Let it dry. Now that the gas tank is complete, check all your filters. My Z had a small filter between the outlet and the fuel pump. When I took it out, it was pack full of rust to the brim. I have looked all over the market and can not find a part to replace this filter. I tapped all of it out and submerged it in vinegar as well. There is a strainer between the fuel pump and the fuel line to the block. I removed that and soaked it in vinegar. I installed a new fuel pump while I had the gas tank out. And there is another larger fuel filter by the engine block under the hood. I just got a new one of those for 20$ and installed it. Once your tank is completely dry, put it all back together. I suppose you could seafoam the system and bleed it if you want to go a step farther. I probably won't since I know the gas tank is good and that is the source of bad gas. I figure any bad stuff that remains will get washed out and burned off in a day of driving. Thanks for reading my first post! Hope it helped!
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I have a 1975 280z and am about to order some aftermarket ignition components (for more reliable spark at high rpm). The ZStore recommends the Pertronix Flame-Thrower I for the coil. However, the OE coil that's in there now only has s 0.8 ohm primary resistance, where as the recommended has 1.5ohms. Are your coils about the same as mine or is it supposed to be closer to 1.5 ohms? If the former, wouldn't it be better to go with a 0.7ohm msd blaster 2? Even the 0.6 ohm Flame-Thrower II would be closer. I am not planning on bypassing the ballast resistor.
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I am swapping a VG30E into a 1975 280z. I'm doing a megasquirt setup and I am wondering if anyone has a base map that they would be willing to share with me for the VG.
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Hi everyone, I have an R200 that I am trying to build up and it's missing the companion flange at the front of the diff. If anyone has an old diff they won't be using and can remove one, that would be great. Contact me. Greg Ira
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Version V1
48 downloads
Simple roll center calculator for the Z car based on measuring the angle of the control arm. I tried to list all the definitions and assumptions. Please drop me a comment if you see any errors or improvements. I checked it against my professional software and got the same values when using the same inputs so I think the math is correct. -
Hey all! I am new to these forums, also new to Datsuns!! I am 20 years old, currently going to college and working two jobs, and working on my new baby in the meantime! About two months ago I bought a 1975 280z. It came from South Carolina, so I had to get it brought all the way up to Connecticut for me. I searched all around for a Z for about two months before that but had no luck finding any car that wasn't overrun by rust. The northeast is terrible! Alas, I found my car in South Carolina and just had to have it. It has some dents and some paint chips, a rusty passenger frame rail, and a damn sexy body! It ran pretty crappy when I first got it back but I was not too worried because I knew one of the first steps would be to engine swap! The car sat in the shop for the past month, took it out a couple times, replaced the headlights (previous owner gave me lots of spare parts ), but mostly did LOTS research on engines to swap into my new baby. I decided to swap in an rb20det. It seems like it fits my minor power goals, sounds pretty sick, and seems fairly within my mechanical expertise, with lots of help from my family . Yesterday, we started disconnecting and unscrewing, and draining, and more disconnecting, getting ready to pull the engine and doing as much as I could before I had to get to work. Today we are gonna pull the engine and tranny. After it's out, the frame rail is being replaced, just bought a replacement from BAD DOGS this morning, hoping to get it by the weekend! Any undercarriage rust is getting tended to along with that god-awful undercoating that seems to overtake the entirety of the underneath of my car. It is gonna get done up real nice within the next month, while I save a little more to purchase the actual rb20det engine. I already have researched and lined up the rear sump oil pan, walbro fuel pump, throttle cable, intercooler, downpipe that I have planned to purchase. Aftermarket exhaust manifold, and intake manifold will be replaced next summer, along with a turbo upgrade. but not worrying about that yet. I just wanna get this engine in and running! Now, I do have some questions regarding this engine swap maybe some of you all could help me with. Do you have any radiator suggestions? Any body have any good recommendations as to where to purchase the RB? Right now I am vigorously searching through eBay. Car is an automatic right now, swapping it to manual with the new RB, any pedal sets or advice at all that you recommend! ANY ADVICE OR INFO YOU WOULD JUST LIKE TO SHARE? Next summer, I am planning to do the bodywork, get some wide body fenders on my baby, fender mirrors, thick tires, a rear spoiler, racing seats, full harness, upgraded interior, gauges, dash and get a good paint job! This summer, my goal is to successfully swap the engine, and get my baby running nice and good. It is gonna be a busy summer! Along with my Datsun project, in my family's shop, we are in the finishing stages of a Factory Five 818C kit car, which looks SICK. It's running an ej207 engine, weighs just about 2100 pounds right now and is pulling about 400hp without a tune yet! It is scary fast but a lot of fun! We have a 69' camaro drag car always in and out of the shop, holding the 632 outlaw world speed records right now, and another 2002 camaro drag car getting finished up. My family is very excited to help me through this project and hopefully I can expand my mechanical mind through my Datsun project! I can't wait to keep you guys updated!! I post all the pictures and updates on an instagram page, specifically for my datsun. You can all checkout the progress and updates through there if you're interested! https://www.instagram.com/dirty_ddatsun/ Thanks for reading!! -Julia
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Hey guys, I just joined HybridZ and this is my first post! I also just joined the Datsun club by buying a 280z not too long ago. It is a 77' 280z, L28 all that good stuff I guess, but it's turbo converted... or rather almost. So, I bought and the turbo conversion is almost complete according to him it just needs tuning, wiring, & a finished down pipe. I have no idea where to begin, I have a picture of the megasquirt 2 EMS, the wideband, & the harness I assume. I also have a ton of wires underneath the the steering wheel which he said was useless and that I should make a new one. I am new to things like megasquirt and tuning so I'm not too sure where I should begin at all, if anyone could point me in the right direction that would be great. Thanks.
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So a friend of mine recently told me about a 1975 280z for sale... The car, for my area, was one of the best I've seen. Sure, it wasn't totally together or running, but the body was straight, didn't need much body work, and barely had any rust anywhere (the worst of the rust is on the inside of the hatch by the corners; worst of the body work is the pass. rear quarter). It was kept in storage and hadn't seen the weather for 30+ years, and at some point had a 350 SBC and 4 speed auto swapped in. The suspension has been refurbished a little; new bushings and shocks as far as I know. Original glass with no cracks or chips that I can see. The dash is cracked (pretty bad in some spots). The car came with pretty much all the stock parts that weren't installed on the car (trim pieces, carpets, lights, door handles, etc.). Needless to say, I bought it. I haven't done too much to it yet, just trying to get it situated for now and come up with a plan for where to start. I have some ideas but nothing set in stone yet. I'll try to keep this thread updated as often as possible with what's going on. For now, here are some pictures and a video from the day I picked the car up. If the pictures show up small, let me know. I can try re-uploading larger ones. Video Link: This is the worst of the body damage. It was explained to me that this was to fill in where the bumper wrapped around, as well as some trim holes
