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Showing results for tags '280Z'.
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Hi everyone, I'm changing out the heater control valve in my car and possibly the heater core while I'm at it. I want to replace the hoses since there's a good chance that the current ones will crack or break when I remove them. I've been trying to source new ones and I can't seem to find the whole set anywhere. I was going to buy 2 of the 3 at Black Dragon but after checking their diagram and my car's setup, they seem to be different so I'm hesitant on buying from them. Not to mention a lot of them are fairly pricy... I'm not really looking to pay $70 for a few little hoses. Do I need the shaped hose? Or could I use some unshaped hose instead? And if I need the shaped hose, can someone point me to a place that sells them for a reasonable price? EDIT: For clarification, the hoses pictured here are the 3 I'm looking for: Thanks. - Brandon
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I'm looking for one driver side window for a 77 or 78 280z. PM me for a number to text. Located in West Texas.
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I'm attempting to track down the current or previous owner of a 1977 280Z which is mentioned in this blog post: http://carticular.blogspot.com/2012/09/ebay-find-77-280z-ls1-swap.html The car was once for sale in Gretna, LA and listed on eBay in September 2012. Any help appreciated! -
Finally almost done with my restoration of a 1976 280Z 2+2 for my daughter! Interior installation, paint touchups, and new emblems left to complete this 2 year project. A little background first! I love Z's and was looking for a new restoration project two years ago. My daughter had already decided when she was 10 years old she wanted a Mustang for her first car and being the loving father I am, I told her I would buy her one for her 16th birthday if she maintained her grades despite my personal distaste for the cars. One weekend three years ago, we were headed to the movie theater and I saw a 1978 280Z coupe at a used car lot on the way and had to stop and check it out. Halfway thru the test drive my daughter suddenly saw the light and announced she had changed her mind and wanted me to build her a 280Z because it was so much cooler than a Mustang and no one at her school would have a clue as to what kind of car it was! She is not follower and constantly bucks the status quo every chance she gets. It had been quite a number of years since I had worked on a Z and was looking for one for me to restore for myself but who can deny the next generation the beauty and power that is the Z! So my quest began the following weekend for a 2+2 to restomod for her. After about 3 months of searching I found a CL ad locally (about a 2 hour drive actually) with 1977 280Z 2+2, Auto Trans, perfect dashboard, SU Carbs!!, and a dark metallic blue, yay no color change needed, saves me a little on paint and sanding! PO claimed it had been running until recently when he developed fuel line problems and parked it not having the money to fix it. I picked it up for what I thought was a steal at $700 considering he started at $1500, rented a car dolly and headed home towing my conquest. As I began work to get the motor running I quickly determined the car had not been running for more than 7-8 years because the fuel had spoiled, fuel lines were filled with molasses, gaskets were separated and every time I cranked the motor, tar spewed from around heads. Not good at all! Thankfully, Slow78Z forrm this forum had just listed his 78 L28 with Auto for sale so he could do a V-8 swap. I drove up to Topeka, KS(3 hours) in January 2011 in record snowfall condition to claim my prize. Slow78Z had the motor and trans already on a pallet and all the extra parts boxed up and ready to go upon my arrival. Great guy and very helpful! I returned triumphantly to my garage and unloaded my prize and then spent the next 3 months in the hospital with kidney problems. Spring arrived and my health had returned so it was time to get going on the car. So off to media blasting first because during my health layoff, paint had started to peel all over the car especially the door jams, revealing the dull red original poorly sanded paint underneath the dark blue crappy paintjob as well as bubbles under the paint I had missed on first inspection. So here we start with the first set pics and you can tell from these that my luck had not changed yet: Devastating amount of bondo and rust throughout almost every major body part makes this a total waste of time for me. The bondo on the sides of quarter panels is not filling hail dents, these are 1/4" layers of bondo covering holes from rust thru of the body. Light steel work and patch panels I can handle with no problems but full inner and outer skin replacments, rocker replacements, on top of an engine/tranny swap was too much for to take on at that point. Best option, right off $1500 invested at this point and find a better car to start all over with. Craigslist to the rescue and the plethera of Z Cars over in OKC, OK it seems fate is smiling again! $3K for a low mileage 1976 2+2 280Z with auto trans and a fair interior. Running and driving nicely but with a lot of brake noise when stopping. Better than swapping a motor out! No hood vents on a 280Z? That was new to me! Weak Silver paint job over original silver metallic with an interesting painted pin stripe pattern... Nice scratch down the driver's side fender, easily workable metal issue... The worst rust found on driver's rear quarter at the bottom, will require some new steel welded in for sure... Surface rust under paint on passnger's rear quarter, smaill pin holes would be found and brass soldered after treament... Passenger's fender had small dent at edge of body line, a little hammer and dolly... FI L28 clean as a whistle, will replace all the gaskets, seals, hoses and do a full tune up to ensure motor is clean as it looks... These have to be the ugliest the tail lights anyone had ever put on a 70's car! That's OK, i have a plan to surprise my daughter with an omage! And right to the plan I go... First I remove the old tail lights and surrounds... Then I use a partial sheet of 1/2" foam insulation to make a template... Template cut and new tail light buckets fitted for mock up... Yes, that's right 65-66 Mustang tail lights mocked up on template! I will have to grind down the top edge of the repro light trim because the top edges are thicker than the bottom due to the sloped tail light panel on the Mustang. Now off to the machinist with the template and have the new panel cut from 18 gauge steel. Once it is welded in and skim coated it will look factory installed, hopefully! Next step while the machine shop works their magic I remove the park benches and alos remove only the front bumper shocks, these will be re-purposed later, but I cut off the rear bumper shocks first leaving the open tubes of the shocks, just wait, you'll see why! Don't forget if you cut off the bumber shocks at the tubes, remember to release the pressure and drain the fluid out before cutting off the shock tubes! Here's the custom bumper supports my body man and I came up with. Using 1" square tubing we removed the shocks from front bumber mount plates and welded the tubing perpendicular out and then welded another piece of tube across to provide front bumper crash protection of up to 10MPH. We welded the tubing directly to the rear shock tubes for rear skirt support and protection of the gas tank up to 10MPH crashes. While the body shop completes the front and rear skirt/bumper supports I pull the seats and make a run to my local Hot Rod Holstery shop. My daughter had changed her mind on color from dark metallic blue to a bright red, "as bright a red as you can find" were here exact words! I find a remnant of red and black Houndstooth heavy duty cotton fabic on Ebay and know exactly what to do with it! It's winter time now and auto upholstery shops are hungry for business so I negotiate a sweet price of $700 to repair the vinyl and insert the Houndstooth into both front and back seats. Sorry a little washed out color due to the bright sunlight... Oh yeah, before we added the bumper supports, I took the vented hood off my 76 Coupe and swapped it out on her car so we could trick out the hood with a little custome mod... Before I show you that mod, I mock up all the fiberlass parts. I bought the MSA Type 3 front and rear skirts, MSA Type 2 side skirts, and Classic Z Spoiler. Once mounted and mocked into place, you need to make sure all gaps are consistent and fit is type against the body. Simple trick I use was to place duck tape on the body centered behind the edges of all fibergalss parts. Once all the edges are trimmed to allow for a tight fit against the body I fill any gaps with polyester body filler so that all gaps are smoothed right up against the body. The aluminized duck tape does not allow the filler to adhere to the body and provides easy separation with a nice smooth fit. All the body peices can now be removed for sanding, priming and blocking. Now back to the my little hood mod! A little trip to the interweb and Ebay lands me AutoLouvers store where I find some louvered panels- 11 louvers, angled, 7"x16" panels... Now we trace the original vent shapes onto the new louverd panels, cut them out, test fit and trim if needed. Warning never weld on these hoods if you can avoid it! You are dealing with two layers of thin sheetmetal and warpage can occur very easily! Now that we have our perfect fit, get some 3M two-part epoxy. Read the directions thoroughly and follow them precisely. What we did here was use the 3M epoxy to "weld" these two metal sheets together. When done properly this 3M epoxy is stronger than steel you are bonding together! It is also sandable once cured so apply it liberally and don't be afraid to ooze it out of the seems and lightly smooth leaving you plenty of excess to sand done for smooth lines and factory finished look. Secure each panel in place with "C" Clamps temporarily. You have plenty of potable time for adjustment, while scured in place with the clamps place a self-tapping screw every 2" around the outside edges to ensure a secure bond and to force the excess epoxy out of the edge lines to provide a smooth tight finish. Once cured out 24 hours later you can simply remove the screws(some may have to be grinded off) and then you can start sanding the excess epoxy off with 80 grit and then use a polyester filler for final sanding and to fill your screw holes. This is how it should look after sanding and priming! Now to the rest of the body repairs, priming, and final blocking! Hail dents removed from roof and ready for skim coat. DA sanding the two layers of silver metallic and then on to skim coating... Now to the first quote of primer! And finally your first look at the modded tail light panel welded in. Sorry but earlier pictures were corrupted and lost... After days upon days of block sanding progressing from 300-400-600-800. We are ready for the first color coats! I chose the redest red you can find 2012 Ford Race Red Code PQ. This is a two stage paint used on Ford Focus, Mustang, and Special Order F150 Trucks. Stock paint makes it easily available for repairs and touch ups. So now we have every thing painted with 4 coats of basecoat each coat color sanded with 800 grit. Then it's on to 4 coats of clear for that glass like shine. Color sanded again and then buffed out for final assembly. Here it is as it came out of the paint shop on June 14th, 2013 partially assembled. I am currently installing the custom grill screens I made and painted satin black. I also have 350Z emblems to replace the fender emblems and the Nissan Z front emblem in black chrome for the nose. I also, used Dupli-Color's Chrome Blackout to give that black chrome look to all the original chrome around windows, roof rails, door handles, and locks. Still have to finish installing interior, stereo, speakers, fog lights, new carpet, re-surfaced interior trim pieces, and whatever else I forgot to do earlier! I will post the final pics in the next couple of days as I finish things up! Thanks for reading along and let me know what you think!
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I apologize, I'm sure this has been asked before, I did do a little searching but nothing specific came up with the terms I used. I took my car into my local mechanic this morning, and he said most likely I needed a head rebuild, and a clutch job, he quoted me at $1200 for the head rebuild, sounded a little pricey to me. does anybody know roundabouts what I should be spending at a shop to have my head rebuilt? I live in Long Beach, CA any shops that you could recommend would be appreciated as well. all cylinders are good except my 5th cylinder which is fouling the spark plug quite badly.
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From the album: 280z After 5.3 TR6060 Install
This is around the final ride height with 1" tokico lowering springs/struts installed with 225/50/16 on 16x8 XXR 531's. TR6060 from '11 Camaro SS 2k Miles 5.3 from '02 Avalanche 80k Miles -
Hey all I have a 1978 280z I've been trying to diagnose a problem I've been having for the last month and a half or so. Lately the problem has escalated and is affecting drivability. Fuel cuts out a lot , like it's "falling on it's face" I know it's not an electrical problem, vacuum is good, haven't done a fuel pressure test, I replaced my inline and under the hood fuel filters no change, been running fuel system cleaner for the last 3 weeks, I was starting to get the idea that maybe the catalytic converter could be clogged, but I'm not sure. I definitely think that is the problem or it's a fuel delivery issue, and would like some help diagnosing the problem. car is still somewhat drivable under slow acceleration, it is my daily driver. it also idles fine and responds to throttle normally when in neutral. also passed smog about five months ago, all of the cylinders are running slightly lean except cylinder 5 which is burning oil (per spark plug inspection). I work m-f 9-5pm so it's difficult for me to take my car in to a mechanic, any ideas would be appreciated and yes I have been using the search function and trying many things before I finally decided to make this post. I may take a day off next week to take the car into datsun alley in signal hill by my house, but until then I'll be trying to get it up an running myself. Another things is that it idles slightly higher (~200 rpms) after being driven for around 20 minutes.
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Hi Guys, I really need the Drivers door the most, but depending on location and cost would like passenger door as well. As well would like to get it loaded except for interior panel, but would consider a shell as well. Willing to travel to pick up. Willing to pay for shipping if to far away. Thanks in advance for any help.... Keith
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Hi Everyone, Long time reader first time poster. I have been looking rather exhaustively in my home country (Australia) for an original condition dash harness including lower console harness, radio harness and hazard light harness & switch to suit my 1975 260Z (280Z for you guys). Here is a photo of the harnesses that I'm after: From what I can find online any LHD 280Z harness should be suitable for my needs but my preference would be for harnesses out of a 1975 280Z if possible for continuity sake. I can pay in cash or I have a spare pair of 260/280Z "Euro" tail lights in good condition (with wiring) I could trade as a part exchange. Parts for these cars are becoming extremely hard to come by over here so any help would be greatly appreciated, I'm pretty desperate! Thanks, Alex
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Hi everyone, Recently my uncle has helped me to tackle the issue of my heater not working. Upon taking out the glovebox and center console to get an idea of what's happening (or rather what isn't), we noticed a couple things. - The cable that is actuated by the temperature control seems to be rusty and isn't moving. It's also bent. The one I'm referring to is the one that's behind the passenger side dash, not the one that's connected directly to the switch on the control panel. - The hoses for the inlet and outlet of the heater core should be replaced. I was hoping to replace the heater core while we were at it because i'm almost positive it's original, but the hoses would need to be replaced at the same time. - The heater control valve seems to be pretty worn out and may not be functioning. I'm not entirely sure what this part is actually called or what its specific functions are, but there is some sort of spring mechanism attached to it. My uncle is fairly certain it's some kind of thermostat. It's the part that is shown in this picture: And of course, finding these parts has been nearly impossible. I found hoses for the inlet and outlet of the heater core on ebay, but they're over $20 each. I've only found the heater valve in one place and it's priced at $200 there. As for the temperature linkage, I haven't been able to find anything. I'm not sure if this is because I don't know the proper names or perhaps these parts are just impossible to find. Can anyone help point me in the direction of where to buy these parts? Thanks - Brandon
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hello Hybridz, the other day i was getting the z ready for a car meet, so a thorough cleaning. i got there fine but when i tried to leave the car would barley start and cylinders 4 and 5 would not fire. me and another gentleman cleaned the distributor out and then cylinder 5 started to fire, but still not cylinder 4. it has to be something to do with the distributor "cap" because the wire is barley getting any spark.you can here cylinder 4 rarely fire like it got enough of a charge to ignite. i tried another wire but still not change, oh and if i leave the wire off the spark plug the car seems to run better, not sure why that is. your opinions would be greatly appreciated!
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Would love to find the rubber bumper ends for all four corners of the bumpers. These are crazy hard to find!
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Hello everybody, I was wondering if it would be possible and cost effective to swap out the engine in my 1978 280 for a 5.7L L98 engine out of a 1990 iroc-z Camaro? Is this possible? Would it be worth the money it would cost or would buying a new LS1 crate engine be more cost effective? I ask because I need a car for this summer and this Camaro is for sale with 50k miles on it for under 4000$. So i was wondering if I could kill two birds with one stone by getting both a cheap car in good condition and an engine for my Z. Is this a good idea or am I crazy? Thanks in advance for any input you guys have. -
So I'm now in the bodywork phase of my project trying to smooth out the dents and dings, I'm going with a flat green after I primer it. I'm kinda doing everything backwards mechanically. I've decided to refinish all the suspension and underbody hardware after I get some paint on her. Its been a hell of a road with this car, house buying put me way behind on this whole deal. I love this car! Oh and the pic, I got a notion to just up and do it last night at like 1am. I brought out the flash gun and my camera. Anyway back to the bondo party outside.
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So I've been forum lurking for a while here now, and reading up on turbo L28 builds, and I was wondering if you guys could help me out with some questions I have as I have never really done much work on my own cars before and I'd like to start. I'm basically gonna copy and paste what Gollum wrote in response to another post to let you guys know where I'm starting at. I'd just like to get some recommendations and definite answers on what I need/should purchase and in what order. I don't think my goals are to outrageous I'd just like my care to be moderately fast. Is this a street car? Daily driver Will it see track use? It's possible What kind of budget are we talking about? I'm hoping to spend less than $3000 What kind of level of performance are we talking about? I'm trying to get around 230hp to the wheels. Fast as a new mustang? Fast as a Corvette? Fast as an enzo? Looking to hit 0-60 around 6 seconds What's your experience level? Basic Have you done engine swaps before? No Can you weld? No Rebuilt a motor before? Yes What access to tools do you have? A pretty good variety Have a cherry picker? Yes Welder? No Grinder? No Decent Bench? Yes Assortment of jacks and stands? Yes Basic list of parts I'd suggest: Was wondering if you could give me some pricing on what I should pay for these parts used or new Gollum suggested. Turbo manifold Turbo (T3/T4 hybrid works well for a street setup) 300cc+ injectors, 400+ preferred Any 'ol intercooler that fits Turbo intake will make integration with HVAC easier 36-1 Trigger wheel + Sensor MS 2, or 3 Coils (LSx work great, or EDIS-6 is fine too) MS Wire Harness Laptop with serial port Manual Boost Controller I'm getting my car dyno'd soon to see where I'm starting at. Do I need to do a head swap on my L28 to turbo it or can I just slap a manifold on with a turbo? Are dished pistons required? Do I need a turbo downpipe and exhaust? Do I need a stronger rear end or anything else? I know my questions will probably sound overly simple to you, I have a tendency to over think things. I'd appreciate any help you guys can give me. I think I have some pretty reasonable goals with a pretty decent budget. I'd prefer to avoid a head swap if I can as I'm low on time due to my work schedule. Thanks
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Hello I'm pretty new to the forums, having a couple problems with my Z I just purchased a couple weeks back. the first problem seems to be transmission or clutch related- 5 speed it makes a weird noise like two metal plates scratching together intermittently in 1st through 3rd gear at low speeds it also makes a weird metallic noise sometimes when switching gears from the shifter. I'm thinking that it is possible it may be low transmission oil/fluid or something similar anybody have any ideas what this could be? the second problem just started within the last two days and maybe fuel related or related to the first problem where the gear may be slipping when accelerating the throttle response is acting strangely don't know how to explain it exactly except that it's basically not there unless you get on it. doesn't look like I'm leaking fuel anywhere, but I did start getting a strong fuel/exhaust smell today my eyes even starting watering on the way home from work today. the previous owner told me the car had an exhaust leak in between the downpipe and the catalytic converter could this be the problem? any help would be appreciated greatly thanks -
So a little back story (without going into too many details): I purchased this car (1977 280z bone stock and sitting in a barn) extremely cheap ($900), everything was there and seemed to be in place; however, the previous owner said the car needed a new AFM. I purchased the car and AFM and installed it. The car ran, idled, etc. While going through the entire car, I found that the engine bay wiring harness (fuel injector clips, other 2 prong clips, and wires looked like they had seen some sort of heat as they were all fringed and brittle. I was able to source a completely new harness from the ECU forward; however, it came out of a '78. Everything will match up except for the AFM connector. My '77 has 7 pins where the new harness from the '78 has only 5 pins. This is because Datsun changed from having the fuel cut-off controlled by the AFM to having it integrated to the oil pressure switch/sending unit (feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, but i'm fairly close with that statement, i think lol). My question is this: Can I still use the '78 engine harness on my '77 and if so, how do i bypass or "jump" the fuel cut-off pins/switches within my '77 AFM? I have heard bits and pieces out there that this can be done but after hours of searching, was empty handed. I'm extremely excited to get my hands dirty and get this Z on the road as it's my first 280z. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance. -Adam
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looking for some parts to swap in my l28et before my wedding in two months, (smoke screen burnout is me dream when leaving in gettaway car, 240z) so i prefer cheap and local to 92128, San Diego Area i'll pick up. my number is 760-315-2372 if there are some things missing chime in. obx lsd for r200 or any other cheap option, 350z clutch, 280z gas tank, fuel line, 255lph external walbro pump, 3" v-band etc.. i have wire harness, ecu, and engine. im betting the injectors are toast. thanks!!! -
hey guys, so the guy i bought my z from had some ugly body kit on it, the bulky fiberglass one. well i took that off and replaced it with the msa poly one http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l276/meat164colgs/Z141.jpg . well when i did this it made my front end rise almost a full inch. i dont have money to spend on quality coil overs but i want to try and buy some cheep coils that fit a 280 and slightly cut them. i know this is stupid and un-recommended but it will be temporary its all i can do right now. i will eventually go to ground control. -
First off, i'd like to say hey to everyone, as i'm new here and this is my first post. I'm not sure if there's an introduction section, i hope i didnt miss it. Onto business: I've loved z's ever since i was a tiny kid and didn't know the first thing about them. Now, after learning more and more about them, I want my own. Here's the rundown: I want a 280z, maybe year doesn't matter too much to me. I want to drop in a chevy, I found an ls3 I like. I realize this thing is gonna be fast but i dont want something thats only enjoyable on the track. Although I want to do this right and not cut any corners, i dont want to spend an ungodly amount of money on this as it really is just a toy. I'm not new when it comes to street cars, i've driven plenty, but ive never owned anything personally other than yukons, dodge 1500's, and wranglers. So having said that, i dont know a whole lot when it comes to mods like this. Here are my questions: -How does this engine seem? http://paceperformance.com/i-7739382-19259233-special-ls3-525hp-with-free-shipping.html a bit pricey i know but i like nice things and horses -The only axles i'm familiar with are the ones for my wrangler, so fill me in on what you'd recommend for 400-500 hp -I understand the t56 is a preferable transmission for this kind of build, does someone mind to elaborate? -what rear tire sizes are you guys fond of? what brands/models? -I've heard of some people running mustang brakes or toyota brakes, what do you guys have/recommend? -Although i eventually plan on adding a completely new suspension, painting it, other "pretty stuff", etc, what are things that you guys see as "essential" for an ls swap? I'm not trying to break anything or die cause i know ill be giving this thing some hell. Lastly, do you guys know of any places that do good work on z's? I'm in the nashville area of tennessee. I want them mainly to do the heavier stuff like axle and engine swapping. Thank you all in advance, can;t wait to get some answers.
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hey guys, so i have had this problem since the day i bought my 77 280z, and nobody has been able to help me fix it.the problem: when it first started it would sputter and backfire at about 3000 rpm and get worse as i drove it. as time went on the problem got increasingly worse and became kinda undrivable. I found started investigating and found that the fuel pump would pulse and shut off then return "repeat". this would obviously cause the engine to starve for fuel and sputter or stop firing all together. well i bought a brand new "presumably a real walbro 255 fuel pump" and replaced the stock fuel pump with the walbro. the z ran amazing for about a month and a half. then started sputtering, backfiring,dying, just like before. at a glance it seems the fuel pump went out again but i find it hard to believe that it would just burn up and die in a month, although i have ran under a half tank about the entire time its been installed, but i didn't think it mattered much on a external pump. it has to be something electrical,fuel pump, afm, tps,realy, something along those lines. As of now the 280z is litraly un-derivable. it will start and run great for about 3 seconds then starts acting up, i can drive it for about 50 feet then it gets so bad to the point were the pump is barely functioning and cant touch the throttle without it dying, it eventually just dies. im at a loss here guys, this is my baby and would love to drive her on the road once more. help or opinions would be greatly appreciated additional -info: when i turn the key too acc the pump comes on and stays on. "i don't think this is normal" - the afm that is on the car right now might be from a zx, the owner gave me a box of parts and there was a was looks to be a zx n/a afm, i know that some people do the zx afm conversion. i also know that the early 77 280z had a fuel pump cut off switch in the afm's and the later ones did not and it was run from the oil pressure sensor. from what i can see the OPS operates just find and when it is unplugged it does not in anyway effect the pump or running status of the z. - the only thing on the car that i know does not work properly is the temp sensor. but i know that thats the reason its making the car run lean,if that was the issue that doesn't enplane why it ran great with a brand new pump.
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Hi everyone, I've had an issue with my Z for a while which hasn't really been a big deal but I figured I should probably figure out what it is in case it does turn into an issue that could be prevented. Every so often when I start my car, it idles rough (usually between 500-700rpm), shudders, and bogs down. It loses quite a bit of power until I drive it for a bit. After that, it's fine. It's happened with the engine hot and cold. Part of me wants to say that it seems to be the symptoms of the cold start injector firing when it doesn't need to, but I'm not sure. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks, Pac Man
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I have a 76 s30 280z with the toyota 4 piston calipers installed up front and stock drums in the rear. I just installed a used 81 s130 280zx brake master cylinder and booster. Both bmc and booster were taken off a junkyard 280zx. The install was pretty easy and straight forward. Just had to take off the spacer and flip the booster and everything bolted up fine. I have bled the brakes in the proper order but there is a problem. The brakes don't work. Basically with the car off the brake pedal builds no pressure. The pedal is spongey about 3/4 of the way down and then super loose at the last 1/4 When the car is on there is absolutely no pressure or resistance or anything. The pedal just goes straight down to the floor with no effort. The brakes don't even work a little. From what I can tell there are no leaks. I read it might me be a push rod issue or brake pedal linkage? Any other suggestion on what the problem might be?
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My TPS was somehow destroyed, and I'm looking to pick up one used. Not too concerned about the condition, as long as it works. I'm offering around $30 (It's three prongs and wires with a cam, I don't know why the parts stores want $70 for one.) I live in an isolated area in northern Arkansas, so I'll have to ship it. I drive a 1978 280z, 2+2 version. Naturally aspirated, IIRC turbo versions have a different TPS setting. I would be paying through PayPal.
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Hi Guys, I've been hanging around here for a while and figured I should start a build thread. My last project was a 2001 SVT Cobra Convertible, I loved it but I wanted to have something more classic and something a little more budget friendly..yeah right! I picked up this roller last year, no drivetrain or exhaust was included. It was driving before it was taken apart and also had to go through a government safety inspection due to being brought into Canada from the US It looks to be in pretty good shape, the only rust I can see so far is in the dog legs, inner fender on the passenger side and the rad support. I'd like to hear what you guys think of this a starting point, I'm undecided on a motor..but I'm leaning towards a L28ET set up. So feel free to chime in on that, and if anyone can identify which front spoiler that is I'd appreciate it Here are some pics;
